
Originally Posted by
Ottime
Happy to be back here posting. Good swell today. Surf a few miles from here on a long crappy point, so there were about five of us stretch along a 100 yard take off zone. A few less than the 30 or so sitting shoulder to shoulder at that good spot. Had just about an hour of water time with my son in school this morning. Most of my waves were so so. Buoy was 7@17 from ^290. Never took off on anything less than a few feet overhead. I'd say the larger sets were maybe DOH. So, bro calling it 5-7'. All in all, a tad bit much for the 6.0, but just a tad. Got one good one. Dropped in, and the first 50 yards peeled off fast at a good 4'OH. Did not think I was going to hang on. To the drop. Then the bottom turn. Then the section. But I came out, down and around the bottom, and started up the face and put a nice carve across it as the pocket set up. The next 100 plus yards were really just overhead surfing bliss. I finally kicked out, as the wave seemed to begin to back off, and I did not want to get caught too far inside. When you do, you really just want to point it in at this spot on days like this. Fighting it is not worth the energy. Got a few more and then went to pick up my kid. Best wave since January. I think.
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