Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

I disagree. Or sort of. If you have money to spend, then go ahead and spend it. It is super fun to have multiple boards with overlap for small waves. That way you can find the perfect board for any given day, whether it be hollow or mushy knee to chest high waves. I'm currently starting to plan on a shorter, more voluminous board to compliment my 6.0. My current board is great in most chest to slightly OH surf, but if it is smaller than chest high and less than crisp, it is less than desirable. As I used to rarely chase sub chest high surf, this was not much of a problem. If I really wanted to surf, I'd grab the egg or log. Now that my surf schedule is dictated by family life, a little groveler board is what I want. And a new step up board as well.

Anyway, point being, if you see a specific need for it in your quiver, go for it. If it is just something to try out, or play on, then check your funds. Thing is, you could buy it and decide you no longer ride you 5.10 much and can sell that one.

Another thing about too much overlap is you start driving to the beach with three boards cause you never know what one you want to ride. I can remember this one guy watching perfect 10' Scotts Creek for two hours trying to figure out what board to ride. Then the wind came up.

[Ottime]

Wishing I had too many small waves boards right about now. Been living off wind swell on slab break. Fun enough to get me back in the water a bit. Super glassy. Some thump. That 5.6 looks just about right.

[Long duc dong]

Looks like you stay north of the SF valley and just take the 126 to 14 to the 395. 5 hour drive sans traffic.

Last night at the cliffs was fun. Chest high, crossed up and glassy.

This is how I always went from UCSB. It took 545 pretty consistently. I don't know what the traffic is like now, but back then it never seemed to be a bother. Very different from my current OC to Mammoth journeys. Those take 530 if I leave at 4 am. If you leave after work it can take 7 hours. The traffic (obviously) affects it much more down here, but the traffic situation in SB/Ventura may have changed since I was there, so who knows. Leaving OC is not an option for me right now, and I don't think I would want to, but being able to leave in the afternoon and get to Mammoth in 545 sounds nice. Of course the Santa Barbara summer surf situation is not so nice, which makes me feel lucky to live in Orange County.

Just got back from a fun week of surf in Cabo. Mostly surfed Old Man's, so that the wife could take surf lessons, but got it head high to slightly overhead. The right is a bit soft, but the occasional left that pops up is a bit more fun. The size stayed consistent all week, though the wind did pick up some of the afternoons. Overall is was a great time. Do wear booties though, as it is pretty rocky. I thought about walking down to Zipper's, but the stories of a localized crowd made me decide not to do so.

Stating the obvious, the well-known surf spots in Cabo are NOT the place to avoid crowds. If you know where to go you can find uncrowded surf, but this was not that type of trip for me.

[Ottime]

You guys down Scal getting any of this south? Meager showing up here. Still have some minor n wind swell in the water, and south flow which allows for some open coast surfing. But it has been kind of hard to find the right spot at the right time scenario. I went out looking last night. Only spot that seemed to be breaking well felt too lonely. After actually seeing a shark there a number of years back, I kind of believe they exist now. I was in the water solo a hit over the weekend and it did not feel like responsible parenting. I something did go wrong, I had a cliff to climb and a meadow to cross to get to my car and phone. I was not going to go in solo late on a Tuesday. Especially when the grey was so thick.

I bumped into a buddy a few miles north. Could not convince him to come out with me. He was half way into a beer and did not want to deal with the suit, cliff, cold or grey. Could someone please come surf head high bowls with me? I bet it was fun.

[jtran10]

You guys down Scal getting any I this south. Meager showing up here. Still have some minor n wind swell in the water, and south flow which allows for some open coast surfing. But it has been kind of hard to find the right spot at the right time scenario. I went out looking last night. Only spot that seemed to be breaking well felt too lonely. After actually seeing a shark there a number of years back, I kind of believe they exist now. I was in the water solo a hit over the weekend and it did not feel like responsible parenting. I something did go wrong, I had a cliff to climb and a meadow to cross to get to my car and phone. I was not going to go in solo late on a Tuesday. Especially when the grey was so thick.

I bumped into a buddy a few miles north. Could not convince him to come out with me. He was half way into a beer and did not want to deal with the suit, cliff, cold or grey. Could someone please come surf head high bowls with me? I bet it was fun.

ott - would love to. santa cruz is on our short list of CA spots to check out over a long weekend in the next couple months. I'll let you know

We are seeing some of the S swell energy here, but last night the tide was too high and the spot I paddled out at kind of sketched me out. Reef break right along the cliffs at high tide meant inside take offs, going fast left, and having to bail before you got too close to the cliff so A. you didn't hit the cliff and B. get stuck in the backwash washing machine. I almost woke up early this morning but checked the buoy in bed and the energy kind of peaked already..not enough swell to get me out of bed at 6 on a Wednesday.

If I could've got on it right after low tide though in early afternoon I think there were fun waves to be had yesterday around here, since the sets were still coming in later int he afternoon and the wind stayed calm.

[Long duc dong]

Ott,

The swell is definitely there in Newport. Surfline is calling it 3-4+, and it looks fun on the cam. A tough day to be at work. If I am able to get out of work early, and the wind is not completely killing it, I may go for an evening Newport session. I wish I had brought a board to work, as if I had I would shoot down to Trestles, but Newport might have to do. At least in Newport I won't have to worry about seeing anymore rattlesnakes, just snakes of a different type. On the cam Lowers looks very fun, although it has the typical crowd. I bet Middles is fun, I just can't stand that walk.

Looks like it should hold until Friday, when I will have more time.

The water is now in the high 60's. I love springsuit time!

[noparking]

did a double session today and it was ok at best, sadly it's the best it's been in a few weeks. i can only hope the summer gets better because if it doesn't it's going to be a long few months.

[Ottime]

Found some left handlers off the S last night. About chest high with a few bigger sets. Fun little spot and just three of us out at a place that can be a complete shit show when the real swells show up.

I was talking last night about what a feeding fest it will e when the real surf returns. Been a while since we have had a solid ground swell. Until then, I home the fog and wind swell machine keeps on going.

[jtran10]

With another really high tide last night I went north to the beach break and joined the kooks for some stomach high, soft lefts. Sets were actually pretty consistent for the first hour until the tide really got high and then kind of killed it, but it was fun to get a ton of waves and surf a beach break, which I hadn't done in quite some time. Really nice sandbars set up too.

[Ottime]

Always good to get out an explore. My beach break run on Monday turned up empty. The sand is not in good shape in the bay. Blame that on several seasons of low rain fall.

[Long duc dong]

Last weekend was pretty ok. Shoulder high Newport, warm water. Nothing exceptional, but worth getting out in the water for. This weekend looks like more of the same.

It really is not great, but if you have chest high surf I don't think it is fair to complain too much.

[Ottime]

I was stringing some surf together with the wind swell a week ago or so. Past few sessions have been on the log and micro. Still fun, but this town is getting grumpy. We need some real swell to start showing soon.

[Long duc dong]

A couple of OK sessions this weekend. Waist, with the occasional chest high bump in Newport. I surfed from 56 to 61, late morning, so a bit of bump on the water. I ended today right around 1145, which happened to be when they put the blackball flag up. I guess they are doing it a bit early this year. That will push me to get out earlier, which is a good thing.

[noparking]

surfed 4 sessions in the past 3 days, all different spots with a good buddy. wasn't the best but worlds better then it's been for the past few months.

[shera]

Pretty proud that I can actually post in this thread.

Had two trips out to Tourmaline this week. Waves are small but pretty and I've seen a lot of people get nice rides. I'm just working hard to get outside and hang out with the cool kids.

I go by Sunset Cliffs all the time and it hasn't been breaking until this week. Some people out in the water but it doesn't seem too crowded.

Yesterday I played in the wash at La Jolla Shores for hours. Arms won't even move today. Just what I needed and I caught some rides but on my knees. Such a bad habit. The waves there are a mess and it barely seems worth it to fight for the outside.

And that's my report!

[Ottime]

Great to hear you are keeping at it. So many adults fail at surfing because they don't have the will gneiss to spend so much time doing something they kind of suck at. Keep at it and you will soon be killing it.

Finally got some decent surf. Nice late season small nw started to show today. Looks like we could be seeing some 8@12 by morning with slack wind and tide dropping slightly negative at 7AM. Could be fun in a few select spots. If those winds hold off, things could be super fun through late morning.

I hurt my back (again) about a month ago. Not bad, but it ended up pinching a nerve. Been slowly working that out. It was nice to surf for a few hours on the short board, get a few solid hard top turns, and have my nerve feel no worse for the wear. Still need a loa of IB, beer and occasional muscle relaxant, but it is nice to be feeling healthy ish.

[noparking]

I didn't get shit this weekend. Had been looking forward all last week to the swell that was makings it's way towards the oregon b/c we haven't had a decent swell in over a month. When it finally hit it was stormy and blown out, so I hit the rivers instead. Have to keep the moral up some how.

[shera]

Great to hear you are keeping at it. So many adults fail at surfing because they don't have the will gneiss to spend so much time doing something they kind of suck at. Keep at it and you will soon be killing it.

Finally got some decent surf. Nice late season small nw started to show today. Looks like we could be seeing some 8@12 by morning with slack wind and tide dropping slightly negative at 7AM. Could be fun in a few select spots. If those winds hold off, things could be super fun through late morning.

I hurt my back (again) about a month ago. Not bad, but it ended up pinching a nerve. Been slowly working that out. It was nice to surf for a few hours on the short board, get a few solid hard top turns, and have my nerve feel no worse for the wear. Still need a loa of IB, beer and occasional muscle relaxant, but it is nice to be feeling healthy ish.

Thanks! It took me forever to get good at skiing - I learned that as an adult. I don't mind taking the slow road. And I grew up messing around in the Gulf so it all feels like playtime to me. I guess the wetsuit bugs me the most but I'm gonna get a shorty. Water is so warm.

Sorry about your back.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Been getting in the water regularly since february, despite problems with my right knee (kept me off the snow fort his season… boohoo!). Dialing in my new boards and having a blast. Starting to catch more and more waves too. :-D

Then 4 weeks ago I tweaked my other knee pretty seriously. So back on the injury bench again. Today was my first session without any ibuprofen (06.00 dawn patrol). Both knees felt tender but manageable. Got a few nice turns in on some hip high with wind chop. Good to be out there again.

[shera]

Dang you guys injuries suck.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

Another dawn patrol today: 5.45 - 8.30.

We had some chest – shoulder high surf rolling in from the north today. Good times.
There was some slight wind chop which was a shame. But line/ consistency and strength made up for a lot. Even saw a few tubes appear but wasn’t able to get into them. Did surf some different lines than usual. Also managed to get properly onto my tailpad with my back foot.

Confidence is growing and I’m def making progress at last; daring to drop into the bigger waves also.

PS @shera: I noticed that the early pop up only works for me if I give two extra hard strokes to bring up my speed enough. Otherwise the wave just passes under me. I guess the moral of the story is pick up as much speed as possible and then make the early pop up!

Now work: ugh!

[Ottime]

Sounds like you are getting some.

Last night was a load of fun. I searched at sun rise briefly and decided the combination of low tide, south breeze and such was just not quite working. Went home and cooked eggs for the family.

Headed back out around 6:30, checked a few spots with my buddy and settled for a break that is right on the road and a super easy paddle out. Shared it with just my buddy. Perfect back rehab surfing. You only had to work after gettin a wave, and barely at that, as the current would sweep you right back out to the take off. Perfect little left ganders grinding along the reef at about shoulder high. Some bigger. Some waits. Super fun surf.

The coming week looks fun with some better souths showing on the charts. Getting stoked. Back feeling better and better.

[Tectonically_Neglected]

That sounds so super chill. Nice!

[skideeppow]

Just got back from East Cape, swell was enormous. Never dropped into such large waves and got my first barrel.


Got crushed by this one. Snapped my board.

[strawjack]

Is that baja east cape?