Anyone else get some today...?

[jtran10]

and regarding that guy in carlsbad that was rescued, sounded like he was out midday and the rescue was done at that time as well? Either way, when I was out this weekend I didn't hear any talk about it.

[Ottime]

As for my buddy going 0 for 2, he surfed Sunday morning. When I requested te swell txt update his response:

You should have seen me.

Then a minute later:

In other words, wow.

I was pretty stoked for him. He was not super bummed on the 0 for 2 only because we were out in the big stuff, an even if you don't get a wave, you likely will get a beating or adrenalin rush of some sort. But it was goo to hear he was back up on the horse.

[jtran10]

what's up with guys dropping in on every wave at swamis. spent a couple minutes watching from the park on saturday. Every wave was: 4 guys get up at the peak > 1 guy is on the wave eventually > guy down the line at the inside section just paddles regardless of what the guy on the wave is doing > inside guy rides the wave until it closes out inside

besides the 100s of people out, seemed lame to wait for a set wave only to get dropped in on

[Ottime]

Fucking crowds. I avoid the 100s, but once a spot starts maxing out, I see all sort of foolishness. At least on more critical waves there is less of that, but then, you run in to the problem of folks talking off too deep and blowing waves, or no one going due to confusion, and of course there is always some douche way down the line who figures they have time to drop in and make a few turns, or think they've waited long enough, or whatever.

I like you technique of sitting just inside the pack on days when the peak is slipping through. That tends to work really well in the mid size and bigger stuff, as folks can become cautious about being in the pit.

[whitekingsalmon]

blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh blah blah,,,,,, another overhead day in mirissa sri lanka,,, my 3 month visa is up and im sitting in the airport for a flight to the maldives,,,,,, OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ya

[JerryLTLVERsandusky]

blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh blah blah,,,,,, another overhead day in mirissa sri lanka,,, my 3 month visa is up and im sitting in the airport for a flight to the maldives,,,,,, OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ya

^^the face behind the cunt

[BraddA]

Brett Michaels w/o makeup?

[Piggity]

6'10 x 19.75 x 2.6 is now in the rotation, mission accomplished.

[Ottime]

That was quick. Speed dating?

[jtran10]

piggity, I still want to grab that board you offered up sometime.

Finding after this recent run that I want something more performance oriented for faster, steeper waves. When it was consistently overhead felt a bit undergunned on the 5'10", and don't like the quad set up on my 6'2" for steeper drops.

Thinking I want something right around 6'0", 27L, with a big more rocker and 3 fin set up.

[ate'em]

"Chandler, you still have a single fin mentality, I need a big board with lots more rocker!"

[Ottime]

Ha. Hanging with my son who refused his nap today, I was reminded of, and came across this good ole real from 2001. There is a better one out there some where. Now I need to search for that. Might have to fire up the old computer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKDBgZxwdMc

sorry, can't figure out how to embed

[icelanticskier]

longboarding was fun this am. 15 fun rights in 30 minutes from the rocks beyond the restaurants northeast corner angling right into the beach at high tide. knee/thigh clean perfect. no one else around. sweet

rog

[PowerWhore7]

Trestles has been absolutely firing the last two days, 2-3ft OH rights from Lowers to Church were pretty common, no bullshitting. Been getting the stink eye from the guys and gals on shorter boards on the inside though , I say don’t bring a knife to a gun fight .

Some more craptacular shots of The OC....

[Ottime]

2-3' OH is a knife fight.

2-3X OH is a gun fight.


Just saying.

[Atrain505]

Pics the awesome and there is some serious size in that vid! Nice.

Yesterday was waist to chest oil glass mini peelers. Very fun. No more long period overhead screamers. Swell is done with nothing on the horizon. I may actually retreat to the mountains even though there still isn't any snow.

[Ottime]

I can still recall the wipe out at 3:01 more than ten years later. I'm much smarter at that spot these days.

Rough day with the kiddo so I went for another session. Was planning in quoting after yesterday. Still a good bit OH. Surfed by myself tonight. The entire 200 yards plus of well OH point break. Only had about 35 minutes of light. Got plenty. Picked of my wave in deep in the bowl with a nice, steep, vertical drop in front of a pitching lip, bottom turned around and then right up into the throat and swung hard just under the lip, blah, blah, blah. I dunno. Maybe four or five turns, but big ones, covering big distances. Was pretty stoked on how the 6.0 has been handling these moderate waves.

[Piggity]

I was watching it earlier and was laughing at the axe coming down at 3:01. Loved it. Drop at 2:41 was a nice one.

Speed dating paid off, the board is what I expected. Now to get it in some bigger surf, maybe a shack or two.

Nice photos PW.

Jtran, not sure which board I had mentioned before but still have a few lying around the garage.

[icelanticskier]

thanx for sharing the vid ott!. just watched it with my coffee. some nice ones

man that board yer riding looked looooooooooong, even for the bigger waves in the vid. tough to fit that much rail line in a wave unless the wave is hudge.

glad yer liking the 6'0 these days

rog

[Ottime]

Many different boards, but there are a few days where I am certainly over gunned. The first few waves were perfect for the 6'7" that I was on. That said, the 7'6" was way too long for the wave at 2:35-3:05. That wave is super round. I also took that board out one day at a point and felt way over gunned for the day. The 6'7" comes out again near the end and this time was too much board for the day.

My buddy put this vid together from cutting room scraps. Sometimes, I just made the wrong call. Others I just did not have a different board. Others required something big enough to get me into the wave.

On the two bigger waves at the end, and the one at the beginning, I think I was on my 8'4". That board is just what is needed to get into those things sometimes, when the period is long and the wave is moving super fast. I stand by that board for sure. In fact, that is the only one left that I really like. It is not really a rip it up kind of board, but more of a grab on to the freight train and go for a ride to the country kind of board. But yeah, you can tell when I have a hard time fitting all the length in at times. Hence the trend toward short and plump.

[icelanticskier]

Ah the beauty of a one board quiver. You can't evar choose the wrong one!

Stole my ladies board once again this am. Same bat time same bat channel. Perfect knee/thigh clean ones rolling thru. A touch more size and zip than yesterday which was a welcome surprise. The 8'2 is so much fun in this stuff. Take off angled left, wrap it around right, pull up the face, weight the rear foot to stall a bit to let the wave stand up, then run forward, tuck down with the rear knee to the deck, grab rail and stay right in the pocket to shin deep water. Rinse/repeat. Many times

17 sessions this month so far with one day left. A light to average month as far as water time goes but not a bad 1st month of the new year.

Rog

[Ottime]

True. But then you can't get into the meat. So. Yeah.

I used to joke that back in ME I had a one board (I actually have several, but) and a quiver of suits. Then here I have a quiver of boards and one suit (again, I have several, but)

Yo can totally survive anything the east coast throws at you with a longboard, a short board and a 6.8 pin tail. That just gets you through autumn out here.

Things begin to settle down after today. The next swell is 3-5' of deep water swell an the one after that a bit smaller.

As far as months go, this one has been an excellent one aroun here. About as good as it gets. Almost every day was overhead swell and all off shore except for the last three.

But I'm ready for some snow please.

[icelanticskier]

We're ready for snow over here as well. Been wicked fun skiing, but more terrain options would be nice.

Rog

[Long duc dong]

Trestles has been absolutely firing the last two days, 2-3ft OH rights from Lowers to Church were pretty common, no bullshitting. Been getting the stink eye from the guys and gals on shorter boards on the inside though , I say don’t bring a knife to a gun fight .

Some more craptacular shots of The OC....

Nice shots as always PW7.

Those type of shots really make me bummed about being in the office. Or in jury duty, as I was yesterday.

[Ottime]

Jury duty?

Ya just gotta scream, "Your guilty as fuck, and you know it douchebag!"

When the judge asks you if you know the defendant, say, "No, but I can tell by his (insert of fence remark about defendants appearance)"

Free to go.


Super windy here today. Not minding that my surf window disappeared when little dude started puking at 2am.