Anyone else get some today...?

[Piggity]

Random question of the day:

See the following image of SD county bathymetry. http://www.sccoos.org/data/bathy/?r=7

The big canyon towards the bottom is Black's. There's a smaller one that is less pronounced a little further north, that feeds right into the break that I normally surf.

Is this enough of a difference/canyon from the rest of the surrounding ocean to filter swell like I always think it does (but surfline never seems to mention)? I'd assume if it is filtering swell, it would only be SSW swells, or would anything with any sort of W in it get pulled that way?

Or maybe I'm just crazy and like to think I'm surfing waves that are over waist high

Any sort of canyon will create a path of least resistance for the waves. I'm not sure if that canyon comes close enough to shore to make a size-able difference but it could. In addition to the path of least resistance resulting in a faster moving wave and usually translating into a bigger more powerful wave, the trick with some of the bigger canyons like La Jolla Canyon that filters into blacks, is that the wave hugs the canyon on certain swell directions and wraps back into itself, causing almost like a bounce wave that jetty's often create. Similar to the wedge where the energy bounces off the jetty and then reconnects with the main wave causing larger than normal peaks as both energies combine. I think storm surf discusses bathymetry in detail and might even discuss how canyons work.

Waves on the way, sitting here like a kid on christmas eve waiting for his presents to arrive from Santa. Please let me get shacked

[Ottime]

Still early but this is one pretty swell profile. CDIP are showing SF 4.9@14 and SC 6.1@20. Spectral breaks it down better into components. But, it is not the size this is showing (NOAA is 7@19, so that give a sense of size, as in clearly overhead), but the fact there is zero measure from 8.33 seconds down. No wind swell at all on the water. That is calm and clean. Fun is bein had right now.

[Piggity]

sad

Still early but this is one pretty swell profile. CDIP are showing SF 4.9@14 and SC 6.1@20. Spectral breaks it down better into components. But, it is not the size this is showing (NOAA is 7@19, so that give a sense of size, as in clearly overhead), but the fact there is zero measure from 8.33 seconds down. No wind swell at all on the water. That is calm and clean. Fun is bein had right now.

^this prompted me to check the OB cam and South OB cam, looks pretty damn perfect for almost 3pm on a Saturday afternoon. Report is claiming 8-10' with occasional 12', yes please.

[Breakwater]

Don't think so. I rarely surf the lane due to crowds. I'm mostly a weekend and evening warrior, so it gets packed that time of day. Although with pre school, I'll start getting some short mid morning sessions on T/Th. School is just down the street from the lane, so tide and swell allowing I'll likely be there. Next time I jump in on a right crowd I'll just call out for him.

I'm usually west and north of town. More swell, more juice, fewer people and more sharks.

Word. yeah, he's around too.
One of his boards is yellow, but not the dude you posted. He's got some kind of sticker/logo on the port side of his.

I'd post a photo, but that's just wierd. Especially on this fucking website.

[Ottime]

Here is that spectral buoy reading from yesterday.

Snow is fun and my little guy is killing it

[icelanticskier]

must be so awesome to slide with your little man!^^^^^^

despite the way I was feeling yesterday I did make it out for about an hour late yesterday afternoon. full on blizzard conditions. had to face away from the north wind to keep my eyes from being pelted from the driving snow. love that.

waves were waist at best and super close together, like take off, thrust forward with a bunch of self created momentum, ride up and over the back of the wave in front of me then tick tack back and forth till that wave peaked up where I could get to work. some fun outta nowhere mini floaters were had on the "inside".

one kid paddled out and said it looked fun from his truck. I replied, "how does it look now?

it was pretty bad, but I felt better for it in the end

rog

[Atrain505]

Still no snow up here so still surfing. Yesterday was good but very crowded. Lots of ok rides, one overhead long screamer. Biggest crowds I've ever seen up here regardless of the time of year. What does that say?
Today should be mucho better.

[jtran10]

surfed la fonda saturday, raul's sunday in baja. both spots about head high and minimal crowds. Was thinking Sunday was going to be much bigger, but without internet had no idea today's swell was delayed by several hours.

not too big in north county, but looked fun and clean this morning. thinking of either sneaking out of work at lunch for an hour or so, or leaving a bit early and surfing until it's pitch black.

[Ottime]

must be so awesome to slide with your little man!^^^^^^


rog

It really is. And it makes no difference that the season is crap so far. Having plenty of fun with him, then lapping bumps for two hours. Even when the surf is absolutely pumping.

Took out the 7.6 last night, as a bump was on it with the breeze and the surf was pushing doh. Grabbed a few, but the board never felt right. Sluggish. I knew the board was a lot tighter than my 6.0, but geez. Got out after dark. Noticed the broken fin this morning. Ahh, maybe that contributed.

Anyway, grabbed the 8.4 and 6.0 this morning as I left to drop my kid at school. Had about and hour plus to surf. Ended up at NBs with the 6.0, and damn was that place firing. Had a hard time getting waves. Only grabbed 4. But one was just absolutely dreamy. I'm guess the first section was about 4' OH, but I got on it early before it started to drain out. Kept my back foot heavy and front shoulder solid as I drove off the bottom and into the first section. After that, I could let up just a bit and start really surfing it freely, then by half way through the third section, where the barrel would require one to tip their head to get in, I could let loose on the thing. A couple football fields later I stopped making turns and decided to kick out. Should have gone in, as I waited 30 plus minutes for two excellent waves that absolutely paled in comparison to that one. And I would not have been late picking up my son.

Hope to get a sunset session. I like school.

[Atrain505]

^Sweet! Couple football fields later. Love that quote.
Was windy and bumpy up here as well yesterday. Went out at a spot bigger than I had ever seen it before. Took one on the head. Luckily none behind it. Took off on one, ate shit on the bottom turn and then proceeded to wear about ten on the head. The wave breaks pretty far out and by the time I was done with the shit storm I had been pushed all the way through some rocks and into the beach.

Decided enough of that and went to a smaller, cleaner, inside wave that had some overhead super fast runners. A total blast. As I was leaving the beach at sunset a set marched into the 1st spot I was surfing that was the biggest surfable waves I had ever seen in person. 4 guys were still out and they all were way too inside. Not even close to making it over. Just ditch the boards and dive as deep as possible. I was very glad with my earlier decision to move out.

Took today off to work. Back at er' manana. Sunny winter continues up here.

[shirk]

Took today off to work. Back at er' manana. Sunny winter continues up here.

Are you out in Tofino? Have you even made it up to Whistler yet this winter? fuck skiing this year.

[PowerWhore7]

Someone definitely turned on the wave machine down here in The OC, 1-2ft OH and pretty consistent. Got to surf Lowers today with a minimal crowd, a longboard and perfect A-frames running from the point through middles, twas sublime . Yesterday was as crowded as I have ever seen, but today was much quieter and just a touch bigger. Looks like there is swell lined up for a while and might even get in the DOH range on Friday...

Had the pleasure of getting pitched while angling into a well OH wave on my backhand yesterday, I fell a good 5-6ft straight to the flat and knocked the fucking wind out of myself pretty bad. Then got to go up and over the falls and get slammed back down to the sand knocking any breath left in lungs completely out, it was awesome. To make things even more fun, the next wave was right there and I got take that on the head and go for a full ride up and over again, all while moaning and groaning under water and feeling like I was going to die . Good times for sure


snapped this shot as I was leaving the beach of one of the smaller gems out there yesterday

[icelanticskier]

sweet!^^^^^^

rog

[Xover]

Very nice PW7!!

[Atrain505]

Are you out in Tofino? Have you even made it up to Whistler yet this winter? fuck skiing this year.

South island due to the wife's work until April 1st. 9 month stint out here. Was supposed to be based out of Whistler for my work for the winter but plans are totally up in the air right now. I have not skied yet. Which is bizarre for me to say. Surfing has been a pretty good replacement. Been a bit of a revelation actually. That I could live away from the mountains and be ok. Never thought I'd say that.

Glad everyone is getting some!

[Ottime]

^Sweet! Couple football fields later. Love that quote.
.

What always blows my mind is how quickly one can move so far on a long period wave. Honestly, my wave felt fast, and I guess some what long, but I think I made maybe eight turns, and I was a good 200 plus yards from where I took off. A good ten minute paddle back.

Last night a few friends got some long waves up the coast. I failed to connect on any good ones. Struggling a bit with the 7.6. Hoping to get a few more days on it, as I really do want to get a solid 15+ footer this season, but I've yet to get a good session. Plenty of 8-12' surf, but no big days yet. I think part of the problem is that I suck. The other part is my super short sessions. It takes me a good half hour to figure out what is going on during bigger swells and get in synch, while when it is smaller, I can just go sit in the impact zone and hope for the best. Got to get around this head game. And maybe I'll ride the 8.4 this Friday when the big one comes. Been years since I was on that one.

[Long duc dong]

Someone definitely turned on the wave machine down here in The OC, 1-2ft OH and pretty consistent. Got to surf Lowers today with a minimal crowd, a longboard and perfect A-frames running from the point through middles, twas sublime . Yesterday was as crowded as I have ever seen, but today was much quieter and just a touch bigger. Looks like there is swell lined up for a while and might even get in the DOH range on Friday...

Had the pleasure of getting pitched while angling into a well OH wave on my backhand yesterday, I fell a good 5-6ft straight to the flat and knocked the fucking wind out of myself pretty bad. Then got to go up and over the falls and get slammed back down to the sand knocking any breath left in lungs completely out, it was awesome. To make things even more fun, the next wave was right there and I got take that on the head and go for a full ride up and over again, all while moaning and groaning under water and feeling like I was going to die . Good times for sure


snapped this shot as I was leaving the beach of one of the smaller gems out there yesterday

Love this shot.

I finally had a weekend where I was able to get out quite a bit. I was going to hit Mammoth, but decided being limited to Dave's and lame groomers was not quite worth the effort. I had taken Friday off, so I surfed HB during the middle of the day, which ended up being fun, even though the swell had not yet hit. It was waist to shoulder high, and lined up if a bit soft. I found my zone in a relatively crowded lineup, and was able to pick off quite a few that connected to the inside. It's amazing just how much fun I can have at that size if the shape is good.

Saturday I went back to HB, surfed around the same area, around tower 12, and found similar conditions. It was more crowded, but still manageable, leading to another great session. Sunday I went back to the same area, and was disappointed. Despite it being a couple of feet bigger, and really nicely lined up, the crowd made things difficult. If was as crowded as I have ever seen that zone, and I only had a few waves. Having said that I got one screamer, which just about made it worth it.

Monday I went to Uppers/Cottons, and found another huge crowd. I ended up surfing in the one hole, where almost everything was closing out. I did snag a couple that lined up, and took off on a million closeouts. I had fun despite all that, as the waves that did line up were REALLY nice. I would have gone to the better peaks, but it was just to crowded for my liking. I would rather go on soft closeouts, hoping for the occasional corner, than battle an absurd crowd. The nice thing about Uppers is that it is pretty soft (usually) at a foot overhead, so you don't have to worry about getting too pounded. It can happen, but it's not like Newport at that size.

All in all, a fun weekend. Ironically, I had the best time on the smaller days. Isn't it funny how that works out from time to time?

[Ottime]

Your just trying to impress rog.






Being that my favorite board in my quiver by far is only a 6.0, I've been enjoying my smaller sessions the most. That board kills it from chest high to just about a foot overhead. Although my very best waves on that board have all been on bigger days when I was able to get my feet underneath me early enough.

It's a good week when te crappy day of the week is 7.7@14 from 290 on te CDIP and 5.5@14 for the spectral peak with a slight north breeze.

[icelanticskier]

do I look impressed? my better half just snapped this a few minutes ago while I wasn't looking. and I just so happened to be reading LDD's post



the smaller days can be ruler, imo. usually less crowded and zero effort to do anything. just get waves. a ton of em. more waves=more practice=more refinement=more sharp=more fun, imo.

missed a good one today as things didn't come together till after I went to work. tomorrow morning looks fun and might even be a degree or two above zero (f). not including wind chill. water's gonna feel so warm

weekend looking small=fun.

rog

[Atrain505]

I'm always gonna be partial to the couple feet overhead long period screamers. Which is exactly what today was.
Tomorrow's a work day. Back at it on Friday which could be large.

[Crampedon]

Jaws went fucking huge today. The wind eventually screwed it up but the sets on the north shore today had a lot of west but as the tide game up there were 30'+ faces easy.

Here is a crappy link that might work. Check the boats heading out think they were gonna get caught inside.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=802361453113501

The guy towing in at about 58' gets a ride.

The traffic was an all time shit show, blocked from Peahi to Kahului by gapers trying to get a peak.

Good sized-

[icelanticskier]

That I could live away from the mountains and be ok. Never thought I'd say that.

I hear that^^^^^^^^took me over 10 straight 100-150 day ski seasons after high school, east/west/traveling to finally and VERY hesitantly move back to the coast year round. 1st few years were weird even tho I still managed 80-120 days a season for quite a few years, but surfing and living so close to the surf year round puts sliding on snow as a second thought these days.

nice to have both tho relatively close.

2 degrees here with buoy 8' @ 11 seconds with light offshores. 8am and i'll most likely be the only one out. oh darn

rog

[Ottime]

That is some good size.

On living by the coast. Way better. I have no problem driving hours for the snow because it is so much more predictable. I'd have a hard time driving even 30 minutes to check out the surf. So much can change. I also enjoy myself a good 45 minute surf session, but really need at least a few hours to get my ski on. I'll choose the coast over the mountains, but I am sure I could make the other one work in a pinch.

On surfing small waves. Small is relative. As to rog's point above, a day were you are well in your comfort zone, are able to sit right on top of the wave, surf it hard and surf it often, is a small day. I agree with Atrain. My favorite surf is 1-2' OH, long period. Super comfortable at that size. Around here there are so many surfers, that size makes little difference in crowds. There are always crowds on the small days. Mid sized days tend to thin the crowds up north and spread them out to more breaks.

Last night on the 6.0. Got a bunch of waves surfing the 7.7@14. One very very nice one. I love that board. Now I need to get a 6.6/8ish that provided a similar feel.

My thought last night is that my old quiver required bold broad strokes. This board requires many smaller, refined, delicate strokes. I am no longer bold and broad it seems.

[icelanticskier]

Kinda like light n flicky?^^^^^^^

Yup this morning delivered. Just pretty. Solid head high some plus some minus, but man o man did it offer it all. Sea smoke, clear green mid period a-framed walls 4 evah. Paddled out at 815 and there were just 2 others out about 3-400 yards to my south. Hard to describe how perfect in words, but these things would just pick you up and send you wherever you desired to go. Paddleouts were kinda long with many duck dives which combined with the 2 degree temps and off shores made coffee nothing that i would pine for. 1st wave was one i woulda been happy leaving on. Nice way to start a sesh. Full rail t2 b carving with good gouges throughout the apex. Rinse repeat. After an hour and 45 i was satiated. That jog back up to the car into the biting wind and single digit air temp was almost comical. So good.

Yes

Rog

[jtran10]

doing what I can with this swell locally. no car for me this week so moped only surf locations and dawn patrols and dusk patrols only. I feel you on the short sessions ott, hard to get dialed in an hour.

that said surfed monday evening, tuesday morning, wednesday morning and evening, and this morning (after being in MX last week). Although today my arms were beat so I just kind of floated and got cold with all the fog.

would've loved to be able to get further south for some bigger waves, but had chest-head high locally.

Any of the SD folks wanna surf somewhere saturday morning/midday?