Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

Likely gonna be large down there Saturday. You may want to look at the deep water breaks.

That jog back up to the car into the biting wind and single digit air temp was almost comical. So good.

Yes

Rog

Look at that. Surf in sub zero (with the wind chill and all) and rog becomes Rog.

It's gotten pretty chilly here today. Dropped to nearly 55F by sunset today. Barely gonna reach 60. But not too worried. Should be 75 by the middle of next week. But, then again, the swell will drop back down into the mortal range of a few feet over head by then. This season has gone from zero to hero pretty quickly. The past month has been a great run. Looks like we get another week plus before the shift happens.

[icelanticskier]

rog became Rog cuz I was using a nuther computer that capitalizes shit automatically. meh

rog

[Ottime]

Oh. I thought your finger tips froze off.


spec is 2.3@25, cdip 8.3@20^285. Things are going way up around here. It will be fun to watch the swell build in the morning. Not really a beach day for the two year old.

[BS720]

Scott's tonight before sunset, thinking of plugging back down south in the morning before work. I think my chances of making it out, or wanting to get out, at OB in the morning are the same as the Niner's winning the Super Bowl.

[Ottime]

How was it last night?

Imagine it much much bigger this morning. I would not doubt 18' sets and building. I'm gonna try for it this evening, but not sure I have enough light, or balls, to paddle out late in the day.

[Piggity]

Long powerful walls. Tomorrows forecast: snapped leashes, broken boards and a few beat downs.

[Ottime]

Got out tonight on the 8.4. First time since the little guy was born. Swell was subsiding. The bombs I saw on the web were not quite as bomb like. I know scotts breaks smaller than mavs, but I was expect more death defying conditions. What the waves lacked in height the more than made up for in girth. Was glad I was on my big gun. Forgot how enjoyable that thing is. Hit the water about an hour before sunset. Watched a bomb set as I ran the beach. Paddled out in a lull, but even that had a moment of concern. Mostly sat for the first twenty minutes. Then I missed a good opportunity, burying the nose as I paddled in. Pulled back. Bummed I missed it thinking it would be another twenty minutes of waiting. Then I took a small ten footer to get a feel for things. Oh. I like this board. I fumbled the next one as a chop got under me as I stood up and bobbled the board. Made it off the back before the thing pitched. Found two twelve footers with easy drops and mostly mellow shoulders. By then I was just thirsty. I wanted some meat and something that fired off. Then I found myself in line for a fifteen footer. Made the drop, drove off the bottom and made the turn in the meat of the bowl as the thing started to rifle. With too much west in the swell I knew I could not make the whole thing, but blasted through the second action and was able to hit a turn high in the third section and run out in front of the thing. Never made it around the next corner but was so amped to ride that thing into shore.

Morning should be back down to fun size.

[Piggity]

^Sounds fun

Jtran should probably check in for a roll call, this is his area. Another potential person missing at swarmies but not confirmed

http://www.nbcsandiego.com/news/loca...241915891.html

The Coast Guard is searching for a surfer that went missing off the coast of Carlsbad on Friday afternoon.
The surfer was in the vicinity south of Carlsbad State Beach.
High waves have hit the entire area today, leading to a swimmer being rescued in Ocean Beach.
Check back for more.

[Atrain505]

ott bringing out the big gun!
Went out to a new for me sheltered spot as the winds were out today in full force. Fun head high to head a half. One double overhead set that I had luckily just caught a wave and was paddling back out in the channel so I was spared while the rest of the lineup was mowed down.
Super long rides, long paddles back out, a bit choppy, but damn good times. Had a few full speed board bounced by chop tomahawk down face moments mid wave. My neck is a wee bit stiff now. Huck neck from surfing.

Hopefully the missing surfer turns up.

[Piggity]

^Sounds fun, well except the tomahawk to huck neck part.

Coast Guard found the missing surfer, sounds like he's alright. Grabbing the 6'2" now and paddling out to some zoo'd out location

[jtran10]

Glad they found that guy (it wasn't me).

Heading out somewhere shortly.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using TGR Forums

[Piggity]

Yeah, figured you were safe but didn't know if you knew more info on what was going on. Could have been one of the guys you see in the lineup or something, wasn't sure. It all worked out though

Surf is fun but definitely somewhat overhyped. I was expecting more consistency and bigger sets than what existed this morning. Last night seemed more consistent on the bigger sets.

Billy goating the trail down did give me the view of a guy barely making the drop, swung around the section for a stand up shack, disgusting. No chance of him making it out alive. Until he did. My mouth dropped as he took it to the beach. I comment to him saying it was the wave of the day, he replies it was "The wave of his decade". Stoked.

I caught a couple but missed a couple, not my day but I'm happy with my wave count the past few weeks. This would be a normal good swell on a big winter, this year its the swell of the year so far. Oh well.

Did get the assist with my buddy's wave of the year. He was without a wave for the session, understandable since he's only been surfing consistently for a few years and it was kinda tricky picking the right waves. Wave was wedging up and I could see the undecided look on his face. I started screaming the paddle, paddle, paddle, paddle as loud as possible. I was his voice of encouragement for him to snag the left and ride it 200+ yards to the beach. We high fived on the beach as he told me the that was what he needed to push it over the ledge for the drop. He out surfed me on the session with that one wave, that actually made my day.

[Ottime]

My buddy who pulled me out last night, and again this mornings did not get a wave in either session. And he is a good surfer with a decade or two of experience. Just some times happens. Even in mellow surf. He is a bit bummed, but will try again tomorrow. And just over MLK he was scoring many many waves on his mini gun.

I took out my mini, 7.6 today. I saw two waves while suiting up that could justify the 8.4, but heard it was, as expected, backing off. So much cleaner and mellower this morning compared to the semi mean ocean of last night. Still working on figuring out this board, but having a lot more luck and fun. Best wave was likely a smaller one. Maybe 10 on the drop, made the bottom turn, and some weak turns through the first section, wobbled a bit into the second and set my board in trim as the next 50 yards unleashed. I was not quite in the barrel, but definitely not on the face, and I could see the canopy throwing out well ahead of me. I could not even really adjust my board, but just stand there as I listen to the sucking sound echoing off the inside of the chamber. I do not think I got that wave though. It actually got me. Even pulling off the back after it let me through, I tripped over my own board and fell in the water.

Took a few good beatings. Once driving over the edge, grabbing the rail, stuffing the board in the face, just as I rolled off the front of my board into the pit. And then another, on the outside corner, as a big one shifted over, and I thought I could slip into the wedge, then standing up, and bobbling the board, and then, to be honest, I do really know what happened next. Fun to get out in the bigger stuff. A solid 8-12' and fairly cleaned and decently lined up. I watch a talented friend get some sick rides on his 7.0BZ (yup, a foamy). Dude kills it on that thing and owned the wave today. Saw him drop the rare 15' that came in. He loves that board because it is fun from 2' to 20'.

Smaller tomorrow, I think. We still have a little bit more swell coming our way, but it does look like storms are gonna start fucking with our weather.

[Piggity]

^8-12' pits? good stuff.

Wind is 1.8 mph, might have to get me some session #2 action

[Norseman]

Took a short work trip to San Diego yesterday and the surf was lookin fine.

Not sure where else to put these...


La Jolla:



Pacific Beach, slammin right near the pier:

[Piggity]

Nice. what spots did you check? There's some places down that way that like to pitch a barrel or two

Heading out now. Can barely move my arms or legs so i'm hoping to make a wave, if I'm lucky.

[Ottime]

Good day yesterday, then?


Things are lookin fun size today with the 6.5@14^280. Throwing a brunch for a few families then headed out for an afternoon session.


This thread will always accept surf stoke. And we set te bar low here. Just ask fishbellyprince

[Piggity]

Still some waves out there.

I realized two things these past swells
1. I'm really out of shape, confirmed.
2. A quiver gap from 6'2" - 7'6" is not ideal for a fat out of shape guy. I'll be picking something up in the 6'6"-6'10" range for the next good swell, whenever that might be

[PowerWhore7]

Since we are accepting mediocre stoke, I will post up my drivel. I don’t have any shots of me in a jean jacket but I do have some shitty pics from around The OC the past week, not as big as many other spots in CA but certainly fun especially with the lack of snow.

And then there were waves...

[icelanticskier]

machine made?^^^^^

rog

[Ottime]

The only thing shitty bought them pic is it sends me to the Interwebz an I can't easily see them in my phone.

Settled down quite a bit to just a bit OH. Fun bein back on the 6.0. So much easier to ride and rip on. Don't get me wrong. I can't wait to get back on the big boards after that taste over the weekend.

Piggity, I sold off most of my quiver and now jump from 6.0 to 7.6. There is a 6.5 in there, but it has the same volume as the 6.0, so not really a difference in catching waves. I too hope to meet a sexy 6.8 that wants to join my harem. Right now there is a big range were I am generally beer gunned which seems to make the biggest difference whilst in a pack.

[Xover]

Once again PW7 delivering some beautiful shots. Thanks for sharing!!

[Ottime]

A 47 old boogie boarder died here on Friday evening. What is odd about this is that the guy jumped off the point at Steamers to enter the water. Typical. But instead of paddling east toward Middle Peak or even the Point, he hung out between the point and the rock. On big days this is pretty much known to be a super dangerous spot.

Two life guards on jet skis pulled up and asked him if he was in distress. He sent them away, but they told him he needed to start paddling away from the rocks. He did not. People on the cliff yelled for him to paddle out of there. He drifted west towards Its Beach and then was hit by a big set and pushed into the Toilet Bowl, a rocky bowl carved by waves between two mini headlands.

Two land based life guards jumped in to save him. They were pulled from the ocean and sent to the hospital due to injuries. Two more swimmers jumped in and were able to get him out. He died at the hospital. Basically bludgeoned to death.

The whole story is crazy to me. I've heard one first hand account. It sondes gruesome, but what the hell was he doing. He must have been a novice and unwilling to listen to more experience folks as well. Not typical behavior for a 47 year old. I can't imagine it was a suicide as who the hell who want to go out that way? Mental lapse?

Sad. Vibes to the rescue workers, victim and their families. Stay safe out there. Stay within your comfort zone and listen when some one tells you that you are in danger.

[Ottime]

Wind came up yesterday. It has been weeks. Some breeze this am. Swells backing down to the moderate range. 5-7'@13-16s. Rain coming late in the week. Might have to ski this weekend. But I'll surf something tonight.

[jtran10]

have some catching up in the thread to do, but good to read some guys, even with years of experience, still don't get a handful + of waves every session.

my weekend update: went out friday afternoon at the local spot, saturday morning at stone steps, and sunday at the local spot again.

Friday was my best session of the weekend. I seemed to just be int he right spot, was reading the lineup well and getting waves underneath a lot of the guys outside that were too far out. Consistent head high + sets til dark (like, 5:50 dark).

Saturday ended up at stone steps by accident, as I had to drop the GF off in Encinitas and couldn't find anywhere to park in Cardiff without the park pass in my car. Stone steps had like 5 guys out, and looked good from the cliffs. In reality there were some GREAT bombs, well ovehead, but as the tide got lower and lower the drops were pretty harrowing. I only got 1 wave in the session, prob. my biggest wave in quite some time, and took a beating being inside on 3 rogue sets before calling it.

Sunday seemed to be the most crowded day of the swell, at least where I surfed. Had trouble getting waves from the LBers in the lineup, and then when I thought I was in position on the sets I was too far behind the section and the guy down the line always got the best part of the wave.

yesterday was 9 straight days for me. Assuming wind doesn't pick up too much today gonna head out at 5 for a 40 minute day 10.