Anyone else get some today...?

[icelanticskier]

Funny you say.

On Sunday I got some fore runners of the past swell that peaked on Monday. While Monday evening was fun and uncrowded due to the whole drug boat thing, my best surf came on Sunday. Pertly because I surfed two different sessions. One with two guys I know. The other with one. And at each session I got one of those waves. Like really good waves.

Anyway, as I was putting my head to pillow, I shared with my wife how I had two really good waves that day. She gets up, looks at me, and says, "that's it? You were gone fore six hours!"

Hard to explain how all the rest of the waves fade from memory and how special a really excellent wave is. Non surfers just wot ever get it, I think.

heh, ain't it somethin?

fkna

rog

[Piggity]

75 degrees, sunny, glassy, waves...that is all.

[Atrain505]

Back on the work grind for a bit...stopped by quickly to say beach breaks over point breaks?

hahahahaha...
I can't even contemplate how that works.
To each their own.
Will be back in the water soon.

[PowerWhore7]

PW - does state park stay pretty clean if wind shifts light onshore in the afternoon? Thinking about heading there too

Not really, SP is susceptible to the onshore bullshit just like most of the spots around The OC. Honestly, you might not even like SP, it’s a temperamental beach break that offers up short rides. With that said...a crossed up SW/NW swell with no wind or offshore and it’s fucking gangbusters

Head high running barrels yesterday morning though


In the ES right now but be back early next week, hit me up if you want to surf SP or something....

[jtran10]

heading out a bit later this morning after the tide backs off. trying to decide between trestles or something south to try to pick up the combo a bit more.

funny, oceanside buoy reading smaller than dana point and torrey pines. not sure i've seen that on a SSW swell this summer/fall. maybe I just haven't been looking?

[Piggity]

83 degree air, upper 60's water temp, 5-7 knot offshores and waves......FN YUM.

Jtran, it's super crowded but harbor is breaking right through the high tide. Better sets are inconsistent but still fun.

[Piggity]

Did I miss a favorite type of wave conversation? It can depend on which wave we are discussing, there are so many variety of each. San bottom points are excellent, but so are places like punta roca for a rock point and Blacks or Moss' for a beach break. Slabs obviously heave disgusting barrels. I'm down with them all, within reason. Without specific breaks mentioned I'd have to generalize it and it would be Slabs or San bottom points are a close number one, Beaches and Rock Points a close second.


I showered up from session number one but now this post has me missing black's beach. Jtran, you in?


edit: session #2 just before dark

[liv2ski]

Took a look at the cliffs on the low tide. Not happening today. Just here to say, point breaks and rock reefs over beach break all day long.

[icelanticskier]

point breaks=missionary position

beach breaks=wild ride

rog

[jtran10]

I wish piggity, I bet blacks is great right now.

ended up just heading to ponto this morning. first time surfing there in anything other than slop. Pretty cool wave, boths rights and lefts today, but there was a crowd of 20+ (30 maybe?) on the peak until the offshores died around 12:30. High tide didn't seem to both it at all either, and actually it was much better when I first got there than it was a couple hours of tide drop later. Also, wind started howling onshore, so..

took a breather then took the LB out just now in Cbad. Glassy, slack winds, sets slightly overhead. Sat south of the peak and just picked off set waves that the pack on the peak was too far away to grab. Only went back out an hour or so but some really good waves, and probably the biggest wave I've caught since the super south swell back in june. Overhead, fast right.

piggity, gonna be back on it early tomorrow, flexible where, but was thinking Oside. Let's surf!

[Piggity]

Think I'm gonna try harbor around 6:30am

[Atrain505]

point breaks=missionary position

beach breaks=wild ride

rog

Point breaks when pumping = the kind of loving that makes you question your existence
Beach breaks when pumping and clean (10% of the time) = the one night stand that stays in the spank bank
Beach breaks when small and messy (90% of the time) = the starfish

But everything involved in all of these analogies is a damn fine time!

[Lee Murian]

Yo SD mags! Rolling into town around 4 or 5:00 Monday. What beach should I drive straight to for best waves/least crowds; point, reef, or beachy, I'm not picky, anyone out for late sesh tomorrow??...will be in Encinitas for a few days. Looks like some fun swell this weekend.

[icelanticskier]

Point breaks when pumping = the kind of loving that makes you question your existence
Beach breaks when pumping and clean (10% of the time) = the one night stand that stays in the spank bank
Beach breaks when small and messy (90% of the time) = the starfish

But everything involved in all of these analogies is a damn fine time!

actually our beach breaks, or points are clean like 90% of the time. probably over 90% of the time I can find clean conditions within a mile from my house.

rog

[Ottime]

Well, actually...

I'd call ogt a sand point, or more specifically a rivermouth dual banked sand point right with slight left sand cove. So, to call that a beach break is a bit of a misnomer.

Same for south of the rest at LS. That is a sand covered bolder reef break. But that one is more splitting hairs.

I think a big difference is that most of the waves in ME are in the 8-11s range, which works great on sand bottom breaks, but does not often do much with any kind of jagged or discontinues reefs/points.

As period increases to the 12-15, and again to the 16-18 and then again to the 19-22s range, you need more and more a steep drop off to avoid closed out conditions. I would say that out here one id more likely to be surfing in the 12s+ range, as opposed to the sub 12s. While there are certain beach breaks (OB, Moss, Blacks) that can work the long period, most, without other focal points (like bits of rock), just deliver paddling, drops and beatings.

Further, as mentioned by rog, the surf in ME is often clean. While I would disagree with the 90% of the time, I would agree with 80% of the time. So, we are close. Anyway, not as much of a need to get tucked behind a point to carve strong winds into a side/off shore. So, another reason to not have much love for the point.

Points also tend to create a weaker wave than an open reef or beach break. So, if you are surfing mostly smaller/weaker swells, the beach will offer the most punch.

That said, I recalled another of my favorite types of breaks as I enjoyed waves, and the occasional legitimate boob, during this past glassy weekend.

How does this sound. Disjointed, gapped, submerged knuckle reef left hand point, with nearby two additional knuckle slab reef pass breaks. Awesome set up, rarely surfed. It takes the right conditions and swell, but with four possible breaks, and two that will go right, it is always work a look when the wind is calm. It was super crowded this weekend. I was alone on Saturday, then three guys showed up, and left, and one paddled out. Today I surfed with one guy, then he left, then I surfed alone for 45 minutes. Like I said, it is over run and getting super crowded these days. On the walk down to where I surfed, I could see another reef set up with 25 or so.

This afternoon, I spent and hour at a right hand slab, that was just starting to work with the NW filling in. So sad to leave, as it was starting to getting to be super fun head high hollow walls. The morning should be fun there.

[icelanticskier]

Well, actually...

I'd call ogt a sand point, or more specifically a rivermouth dual banked sand point right with slight left sand cove. So, to call that a beach break is a bit of a misnomer.

well the sand moves quite a bit and more often than not doesn't break the same from one day to the next. close, but nothing like say a rye rocks, linkys, costellos. ogt can often closeout pretty bad. much different than the local rock/reef/point breaks. I know whatcha mean by ogt sand point formation fer sure.

80%? c'mon. it doesn't blow east 20% of the time. maybe not even 5% of the time. between shorts, longs, and ogt. any wind but straight east means clean somewhere 100% of the time I do spend enough time checking/surfing it to have somewhat of a clue

rog

[Ottime]

clean and groomed are two different things IMO. But hey, I am splitting hairs. Compared to here, the surf tend to be clean. But, and this is a big but, if you are going by your measure, Santa Cruz is clean 97% of the time. It is just the stuff down in the bay and on the north coast that is mostly ripped apart from winds. The coastline of Maine is actually pretty epic when it comes to handling different wind directions. I had spots within 30 minutes drive of my home base that could handle winds from ENE all the way around to SSE. Hell, there was even one spot that, if there was enough swell to get in there, blew straight off shore with a straight east wind.

Here we often get strong NW winds. Town faces mostly south, and even south east on the eastside, so it is mostly offshore. But most of the waves I like to surf are north of here and face westerly.

And come on Piggity. Take a stand dammit. This whole, I love everyone equally is so hippy dippy. The 60s are over, man. Pack your clip and start taking names.

[Ottime]

BTW, SoCal folks, prepare for cold and rain and snow up top. Who is hiking Baldy on Thursday?

Up here? Nope. We stay dry. But it will get crisp. Can't have everything.

[jtran10]

sunday was another double session for me. 6' high tide in the AM sucked, and wasn't motivated enough for the piggity 630am wake up, so hit oside around 8. Some fun waves, but I think Oside would have been a lot better Saturday with the more crossed up swell. having only the one swell in the water sunday made the beach just close out for the most part, although I got 2 real fun lefts that stayed good to the shallows.

went out again at 4 for the negative low tide/tide push to my favorite local reef. Pretty consistent sets about stomach-shoulder that ran for 100+ yards. Not too crowded either, and 6am style glassy conditions. Last session of the weekend turned into my best one. Lots of fun waves, with my last wave taking me all the way to the beach before finally closing out in the ankle deep water.

Love ending a great weekend of surf with the best session, and the best session with the best wave.

Thinking of taking the LB out this evening to catch some leftovers.

[jtran10]

SNOWFALL...THE SNOW LEVEL WILL LOWER TO 5500 TO 6000 FEET FOR
WEDNESDAY NIGHT THROUGH EARLY THURSDAY WITH A FEW INCHES OF
SNOWFALL POSSIBLE ABOVE 6000 FEET AND AROUND A HALF A FOOT OF
SNOW ON THE HIGHEST PEAKS...MAINLY ABOVE 7500 TO 8000 FEET.


bring the rock skis!

[liv2ski]

^^^^Not sure where you guys are looking, but Mammoth is estimating 3" inches

[jtran10]

3" inches seems to be 3 inches squared which would actually be nine inches?

[Ottime]

^^^They be looking at your backyard.

This storm is pretty much skipping over the Sierra and landing right on you folks.

Winds still slack at this hour, but I'm expecting them to kick up before the lady gets home. Just did a drive by up the coast and it looks like magic out there right now. Head high plus, oil glass and very few folks out in the water. This is the kind of stuff rog loves. The unadvertised swell, so the masses have no idea what is going on. And last Monday, when the swell was moderate plus, well advertised, and ripped up by local storms and winds, everyfuckingone was out in the water. Can't wait till my surf break.

[icelanticskier]

^^^^man how I love that scenario!

big wind swell kickin up here today. gonno go west overnight with chest plus sets at least I hope. should get a clean maine sesh for low tide early before the dentist, then my 1st new hammy session in 10 months before work at 2pm. love pre work clean double sessions

hope you get it good on yer break ott!

gonna walk down from the house in a few and see how victory the sea is........

rog

[PowerWhore7]

Sorry for the thread jack but you guys started it

3" inches seems to be 3 inches squared which would actually be nine inches?

Right now it looks 2-3 inches in town will be possible along with 6-9 inches for the “Powder Fields of Mammoth Mountain”.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...53760139,d.cGE

So that would put me right here Thursday morning


skiing over huge rocks and pumice of course (10/6/13)