Leave it to ottime to start the NW dreams Ill have tonight. Small 1-2' Hawaiian with me and my bro. Maybe a repost but me needs some NW stroke
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zinA7Mk...ture=c4-feed-u
PS- Obviously I can't post a vid when mee's drunk
Leave it to ottime to start the NW dreams Ill have tonight. Small 1-2' Hawaiian with me and my bro. Maybe a repost but me needs some NW stroke
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zinA7Mk...ture=c4-feed-u
PS- Obviously I can't post a vid when mee's drunk
4-5 inch Hawaiian at the ogt this am. so chest + sets and pretty clean with no one out in the pouring rain at 645. just me
then another joined me and we picked and prodded through the best of the short period kinda meh but kinda fun pitchy a-frames. actually scored one of the longest waves I've ever ridden at ogt and it was a long walk back from near the big resort of whatever the fuck the thing is on the rivers north side. shoulda just got out after that one as it was a bit of a wait for the good ones.
nice to be back on the 5'10 for at least a day.
should clean up for all beaches later today and beyond. ogt was the only clean option this am.
rog
Rain cleared out. Sun now. Fog hangs on the water. Waitin for the mrs. To finish her run so I can go try to get a barrel or two.
^^ I hate you
Right on Pigs, I am pretty sure I could make it through a session without embarrassing you. Have to try hard though
Can’t do it today but maybe during the week, do you work or are you special like me?
p.s - signing the lease on my cabin in June next week so lets get together this winter for sure...
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
no tubes, but still fun head high plus waves.
more on the way. round 2 is looking pretty sweet right now.
Tillamook Buoy is showing 20@16. nuff said
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
so how was it yesterday in SD? no surfing for me this weekend celebrating slf's bday.
This next one I even more north, but due to size and period I bet more filters down your way.
I have a spare room. No dogs inside, but I do have a yard and deck. I you want to head up solo. Or at a later date. This last swell woul have been perfect. Enough juice to be interesting without really being terrifying. We won't get 20@16, but even half that size at that period can be significant on te open coast. 8@16 is about perfect for in town. But with a little more west than this one.
If winds and tides were to cooperate this would make for a mav and scotts opener. I'm on afternoons, so likely out. Not even sure if the Am crew will ge a piece.
Again watching closely to see if I should surf tonigh and grab fore runners. Tuesday will be good some where.
Last edited by Ottime; 09-23-2013 at 02:23 PM.
Oh. And little embarrasses me.
My fab lil slab was over run by slugs and other infestation yesterday. 12-15 out when I arrived. I recognized four faces. I still got plenty and when they cleared out, there were four left an I knew them all. Anyway, no one got beat up, so you should be fine.
There is a cliff issue though. Are you afraid o fallin and dying?
I doubt it will reach us by night fall even with the 16s speed. As of 11am it is not yet into California. But buoy 41, 89 and 50 are all showing 16@16. Even if a goo part of that height is winds swell, half that should reach here an half that should reach down there. So, head high plus ish. But again, it is pretty steep and I'm not sure how the islands refract and the coast shadows down there. For instance, pt Reyes will shadow OB for this one. It will be bigger down near us. Macs is perhaps shadowe as well.
Right now it is 4-5.5@10-11. Not enough for the wind protected points. rather, it is a weak balls to eyebrow high. Cold water, so not when they are hanging, so bigger than it sounds.
Actually...
Just drove up the coast to lull some one to sleep. No wind. Brilliant glass. About shoulder to head in places. Pretty much no one out. And to think of the many silly people trying to score the point when there is no wind. Kind of a perfect day up there. Sure, technically it is small, but I saw three breaks working with 1, 2 and 3 guys on them. Grab the dog and a board. This coming weekend has potential up here.
Yup, that is 5 in a row.
Like ottime said, no chance you'll embarrass me PW. For different reasons. I get pitched all the time, sometimes twice on one wave. Did I tell you about my face plant last week? Think I described it on here somewhere. Did I also mention I did a back flop on the very next wave? If that's even possible, which somehow it is.
Yesterday morn was kinda fun, NW windswell. Kinda raw and backing off but then started dumping once the tide filled in some. Super hung over, wave of the day came to me early in the session. Trying to stand up all hung over was tricky, started to fall off balance backward. Refused to get denied and leaned into it, straight up to the top, hooked a perfect turn in the pocket and somehow pulled it off effortlessly. Hangover almost cost me a wave, lucky recovery resulted in turn of the day. Ended the session on a backside turn that I shouldn't have been able to pull off, somehow my board stayed underneath me.
Those two turns had me thinking about the wide nose minimal rocker boards, some of which I've mentioned on here. A big drawback is the re-entry from vertical turns. The boards I'm riding have minimal rocker and when coming off a vertical snap, it can be very easy to dig your nose. Especially if you're a front footed surfer, me is. You have to sit back and put all your weight on your back foot. There are other drawbacks too. Just thought I'd add to the conversation from earlier in the thread.
Pubak going extra tropical for a fun size early season NW? 130hrs+ on the maps look colorful.
back flop pigs? ya me too. I got downright pitched and slammed yesterday. felt like I hit concrete. only head high at the peak. got a coupla ooh's and an ouch
my neck and back are sore tonight.
nice afternoon for a 3 hour mtb ride. the beach was on my way home so had a look. ankle high and clean. yay. quite the hurricane season we're having
rog
Results from the MRI just came in:
1. I'm not a wuss (just not sure if that makes me happy or not)
2. 2x damaged miniscus
3. some light cartiledge damage
4. (re)torn crucial ligament
Docs' advise:
- get physio ASAP
- make an appointment for knee surgery (4 november)
- hope that in the mean time physio helps the problems to diminish
Rehab for the knee surgery should be somewhere between 6 - 8 weeks. That also mean that, unless required, we're not going for an ACL reconstruction for now...
X-posted from another forum...
Originally Posted by Masterkook
Bummer TN. Here is to a good recovery. Sick job on that board.
No parking. I was not encouraging folks to head to OR, rather pointing out the size that was on the way. Without doubt this swell is getting a shit ton of wind.
13.5@16 right now. 18 knots up north. Town should be good today.
Ironically, the days that look to go off shore, with some swell left in the water, the mrs will be in NYC and all I'll be doing is chilling on the beach. Bummer.
Looks like we should stay above head high for the next week.
vibes on the repair/recovery tn!
ogt this am. there were waves. it was clean. closeout city
stayed till I found a good corner. then left. about it
rog
had a great session last night. everything seemed to come together for me; swell, tide, wind, crowd, and my surfing.
based on the buoys I thought it wouldn't be too great, but it ended up being clean, lined up surf, about shoulder to head high on the sets, with waist/chest inside waves. The sets were staying open all the way to the shallows. Could only get out for 45 mins, but got 6 great waves in that time. Crowd was sitting way inside, allowing me and 1 other guy on the peak to trade set waves.
I'm thinking I should have gotten in last night. Oh well. Missed a day. Silly really, but on the OTOH put in some needed family time. Hoping winds don't soil too far into town.
Bingo. Cruised west cliff, but this swell is not big enough to really get into town. The lane looked small and crowded on the cam. No smiles had fewer cars than before, but at least 25 in the water. Less than a mile away I surfed a point that enjoyed the benefits of a dropping tide, an ever so slightly easing wind and the fact that everyone must have thought the tide was too high, the wind too strong and the swell to small. Or something. Surfed alone for 30 minutes, and then with 5 other stretched out along 100 plus yards of point. I just love it when I make the right call. I almost did not go thinking it would not be worth the hassle. Silly me.
size dropped off considerably yesterday but it was glassy again last night. took the LB out and had some fun knee-waist waves that were running all the way to the inside
The last 5 days up here have been absolutely unreal. Pretty much the best run of surf I've ever had consecutively and I spent 3 weeks earlier this summer in baja at all of their amazing point breaks and 10 days before that in Nica. Done summers in Hawaii. This was it.
Arms completely destroyed. Hard to go wrong when 14@14 starts showing up. Looks like more on tap coming up!
Pics soon.
Bummer about the knee Tec. Nice shaping project!
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