Anyone else get some today...?

[jtran10]

surf experience? fitness level?

rog

avg+ fitness
i've been surfing for as long as I've been posting in this thread, so like 1.5 years about. Comfortable on high volume short board, especially on my forehand, but definitely still progressing almost daily/weekly.

[icelanticskier]

cool. if you want a board that surfs small (under hh) waves well, imo you gotta go shorter with a good round elliptical shape. the more tail rocker, the tighter and more dynamic the board will turn in the pocket. less tail rocker will give you more down the line speed.

now if i were in yer shoes with yer level of experience (just guessing) i wouldn't be on my board at 27.8 liters at my weight. i'd prolly want somthing with at least 10-15% more volume to aid in easier wave catchability and more float as yer probably not generating a ton of speed yet from pumping and going rail to rail continuously and fully (again, just a guess). you don't want too much volume or properly duck diving is a pita and you won't get enough of the rail under the water when turning and will just be skating across the top of the water.

i chose my 5'10 for it's versatility. volume more forward where i want it for paddling. enough flat in the tail for get up and go down the line on our gutless waves. a nice slightly pulled in round tail for smooth rail to rail carving in a variety of waves/size conditions and good hold when power is present. nose rocker? meh kinda over rated on small/average wave boards, imo. mine has plenty but not so much that i feel like a snowplow. for my weight, the board's combination of length (5'10) and width (19.25), and thickness (2.38) gives me low enough volume to easily bury the rail in a variety of turning situations and turn tight enough in the pocket even with less tail rocker than my old rocket, but enough volume to paddle well. board duck dives like a dream. stuff it under with just a few fingers.

so if yer 150-155, something in the 30-32 liter range. that rusty dwart at 5'8 x 20 could be the absolute ticket for you. i gotta bud that rides his in everything here.

stoked on this am's lb sesh. picturing those perfectly folding a-frames with the morning sun shining through the back. such a gorgeous day here. inspired me to add my 26 mile r/t bike to work commute in to the exercise regime today. will do it again tomorrow. SEPTEMBER!!!

rog

[Ottime]

Have not read it yet, but I'd go with rog said. He is surfing condition more similar to yours. Compare it to Pigs suggestion and maybe find their middle ground. Waves in SoCal are typically longer period than Maine, but my experience in both is similar. Maybe a good solid swell is different in SoCal, but then you have your short board.

I'm gonna read through it when I get my son off the point.

[Ottime]

Funny. On the old 6'3" chips nose ad tail kick where everything. May that is why it helps to chop those last 5" off. Just get them out of the way and reduce plow/ increase glide.

[jtran10]

thanks rog. Was thinking low 30s would be the sweet spot for volume, based on various volume calculators online.

There's a guy with a 5 10 Dwart FS nearby that wants $350 http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/spo/4071375128.html and said he wouldn't take less than 325, and there's the guy with that 5 6 board (linked above)

Now if I'm not looking to spend $600+ are either of these a good compromise at the $300 price point, or do you think too much foam isn't going to really keep me progressing.

[icelanticskier]

well, it's pretty cheap money and would be easy to get yer money back within a year if kept in good shape. it would kinda baby step yer way to lower volumes and smaller outline.

not a bad option

rog

[Ottime]

What is cheap money? Are they accepting pesos as payment.

I would assume, even with talking care of the board, that one tear of use would depreciate its value. At least it does in the market around here. Does that not happen in SoCal and ME?

A real swell is developing I think.

[icelanticskier]

rode my kechele 5'8 for 9 months, about 200 sessions. bought it for new for 520.00. sold it with MANY heal dents, no cracks or ding repairs for 400.00 with no trouble. cheap rent i'd say. a rusty will hold value as it's a rusty. 350 in good shape with normal use seems really reasonable to me.

right tide right spot this am=fkna!

went by the beach early. didn't look like much. knee+. left and came back towards mid tide and the honey hole south of the restaurant had come alive. light offshores and PERFECT thigh/waist high sets rolling thru. just me a bud from work. the lefts across the rockpile were just walling up flawlessly the whole way. coulda probably brought the 5'10 but the take off spot was a bit low energy, but once in.............

love these lil bonus sessions. maybe ogt in the am as the tide will be low nice n early before the rest of maine wakes up

rog

[ate'em]

rog and ott thanks for the discussion. a lot learned here.

jtran- there are a bunch of second hand surfboard warehouses up in San Clemente that might be worth checking. For around $200-250 there is a lot of selection. The shops are all clustered together, off the Pico exit. just a thought if yer up that way.

[icelanticskier]

it's a pleasure ate'em, happy to help!

rog

[jtran10]

thx for the info ate'm. that would be good to check out. there's a place I like in Leucadia too but they just haven't had the board I'm looking for yet.

Went out a bit south of the Oside pier last night. Sets up to shoulder high, but mostly close outs. The smaller waves would stand up all the way to the inside, and it cleaned up right at sunset. Tons of fun waves. My best wave was a left on my way in. Always nice to get the best one last.

[Piggity]

I wasn't aware of the warehouse in San Clemente before Ate'em's post, thanks for the info. I think this is their website



http://usedsurf.com/

[Ottime]

Pretty cool site. I am curious about how they categorize fish, hybrids and pills. Quite few board bigger than 6' and also a number narrower than 19". I know a lot more than that goes into it, but at 18.5 wide, it is hard not to be considered a short board, IMO.

Some decent prices, assuming the listing (which seems to be done not by the seller - assuming this is a consignment shop) is accurate.

And I always love the over priced "one of a kind art piece" that always seem to show up, no matter what is being sold. No. I am not interested in buying your crappy art piece for an inflated price.

I also like to stick with one fin box type, so I can move a single inventory between boards. I recently moved from FCS to Futures. So that may be something to consider why buying up a quiver. I saw a board on that site that looked pretty nice, except it was FCS.

I was thinking of something else this morning, and may explain some of my perspective. I while back, more towards the beginning of the fish retro revolution, I tried a number of different fish and hybrids. I found for the most part, shorter, wider nosed boards worked really well while visiting friends back in Maine where I was riding mostly 7-10 second period waves on a relatively soft rolling beach break. And that was on more traditional fish shapes. Some friends were getting into that thing back here in Santa Cruz, and when I tried their boards, I had a different experience. The wide nose, no matter how flat the entry rocker, seemed to get pushed up the wave and hold you at the top until it got really steep. I would catch the wave early, and get up, but would often still end up with a late drop. Where as my narrow nosed (and I liked extra narrow at the time) would cut through the water moving up the face and slide into the bowl early. Remember, the longer the period, the faster moving the swell, the more drastically water pulls up the face. Of course, this is also what happens a lot at reefs. The traditional fish seemed to have a place to me, but the hybrids just did nopt seem to work for me. Further, I would get that "skating across the surface" feel rog mentioned, from having all that extra float. So I rejected them, and kept with my designs.

Fast forward 15 years, and a lot of R&D has been completed, and I think they have worked through some of the issues. I had to refine my style a bit with my new board. Not always throw at 110%, and sometimes just stay light and swift.

Anyway, the point is, I still think you need to consider the waves you will be riding. I've only been on SoCal beach break a few times in my life, and I think I have mostly surfed long period swell. I would not want too much of a wide nose at El Porto. Might be fine at Redondo. The few times I surfed Trestles, the water moving up the face is not bad, but it is present. But over all, I'd say the waves down there are more like east coast opposed to the surf up here. Don't get me wrong. Plenty of surf up here where a wide nose would be your friend. I'm on my 7'6" egg often enough and often imagine it 18" shorter.

Just thinking out loud and putting off shoveling dirt. Gotta go,

[ate'em]

I wasn't aware of the warehouse in San Clemente before Ate'em's post, thanks for the info. I think this is their website
http://usedsurf.com/

Yep, that's one of the spots. There are one or two others, literally next door and across the street on Calle los Molinos. And several shapers have their shops on that street and have some used inventory too. Calle los Molinos is like a little surfing industrial park of sorts. Rainbow sandals original shop is there too.

[Ottime]

On a more pressing matter, nearby, as we speak...



Now, if that axis would only shift and point at us, we would have some significant swell. It looks to be fun none the less.

[icelanticskier]

right tide right spot this am=fkna!

light offshores and PERFECT thigh/waist high sets rolling thru. just me a bud from work. the lefts across the rockpile were just walling up flawlessly the whole way. rights were even better. coulda probably brought the 5'10 but the take off spot was a bit low energy, but once in.............

love these lil bonus sessions.

rog

^^^^^^^yup pretty much like yesterday but a bit more consistent. so much fun! been out 8 in the last 9. should get most days for the next week. Monday-thurs lookin good.

rog

[Ottime]

At beach with the tike now. No real swell yet. A hundred miles north is showing 2.4@14 deep water swell. 500 hundred miles north is pushing 10@15 on the NOAA. Should be here before night fall. Trying to figure out the spot to go on the low tide. Or wait till morning. Hoping for an opening day Saturday up the coast. Been some time since I sank my fins into some real swell.

On another note I got my first ding te other day on the new board. Not bad. Made it 11 months. Tiny little nose crack. Was gonna bring it to the pro, but instead he told me to shove in some sun cure, he gave me a nose guard, told me he'd take care of the nose when I had something bigger to worry about, and sent me on my way. He has my future business. Way prefer that than him even taking $20. Told me I could use my polyester resins, because so little foam was exposed. Nice to know. Not it is water tight and ready to surf. Hoping I need to put my rusty black stix in tonight.

Oh. Flat right now.

[Piggity]

That kid is one lucky little booger. Good to see your weather is nicer than ours. Send us reports once that swell hits.

Re: the wide nose causing late entry, still very valid on some boards. Not sure what the difference is but some boards will hang up top until the rail sets, then the drive kicks in. You almost have to sit back and relax while the board is figuring out what to do, then you can drive it.

I've been lucky with the shapes I've had recently and no hang up, lot of drive immediately on the drop. Obviously, I'm talking about an average spot, good days at places like LJ reefs and Blacks would be a different story and i'd be on my shortboard. There is definitely a difference when the perform vs when they don't, these type boards work in 7-14' intervals because they hold speed through flats sections or if the waves is backing off (forgiving like a fish). 15-22'+ and I'd be bringing a different board to the beach.

[Ottime]

Talk about lucky. That blue thing is the thermal case keeping his jug of hot water hot. Though, he just played on the sand today. He can't be bothered by shore break less than 2'. OTOH, a sea otter beached himself an summed at our toes.

Buoys look up. Wind is looking good. Hope to go hunting in 1.5 hours.

Done moving dirt for the weekend. We got surf.

[Ottime]

2-3' Hawaiian Occasional 4'. Overhead tubes bitches. Tomorrow should be fun. This thing was filling in nicely. No winds as of right now. Go get sum.

[Ottime]

You can see #2 queuing up further up on this page. Game on.

6-8' Norcalifornian. Maybe even a few that you might describe as ten foot, if you needed to. I was enjoying the smaller ones as they were lining up nicely across the slab. Can't be too bummed when they are starting out a few feet overhead. The bombs had some size, but the slight south bump made them more pleasant for a board bigger than my 6'. All in all, pretty pleased how well mine performed in the surf. The spot I hit this morning is no silly wide nose wave. Mistakes can require a heavy payment and punishment. Kind of stoked that I have my real surf legs back. It took about 30 minutes this morning to become acclimated, but once there, it was game on. Looking forward to a clean day at my favorite slab in the county. Looks like I might head back to the county line for tomorrow. Will need to watch the period.

Was reading 8@11 early, then 12@12 when we paddled out. Definitely did not feel like any longer than that.

Sooooo. what is happening in your neck of the woods. Seeing any of this?

[PowerWhore7]

^^Wait, WTF? Thigh to waist high - maybe - down here.


Explain please.....

[Ottime]

You live in the land of small surf. There are rules in place. An order to follow. Etc etc.

1. I'm way closer to the source
2. An not obstructed by point conception
3. This has a pretty steep north angle
4. We are about a half a day ahead, so more swell should fill in later
5. SoCal sucks
6. I'm surfing out of town on magnet reefs that tend to yield the best results

In town it is pretty small and shredded by S winds.

But yeah, a few feet OH to double is what I was seeing. Or 4-5',6-8',10'-12', depending on where you are from and how you measure. And all that.

I would e calling it opening day for my slab, except the s wind put too much bump and challenge in it to make it legit.

[Ottime]

Oh. And I think in shorter than you. 5'9.5".

[Piggity]

You live in the land of small surf. There are rules in place. An order to follow. Etc etc.

1. I'm way closer to the source
2. An not obstructed by point conception
3. This has a pretty steep north angle
4. We are about a half a day ahead, so more swell should fill in later
5. SoCal sucks
6. I'm surfing out of town on magnet reefs that tend to yield the best results

7. 18-24hrs behind them
8. OC sucks for 290+
9. Head to SD tomorrow
10. If SD sucks, cross the boarder and score HH++ 300-310+ while SD is half the size.


Basically, tomorrow will be OK in SD and OC sucks for steep NW's. Pubic service announcement brought to you by pigs.

^^Wait, WTF? Thigh to waist high - maybe - down here.


Explain please.....

Hey Yetti Whisperer, you wanna surf tomorrow? Head down this way in the AM. Don't worry if you suck, I do too but I'm drinking lots tonight so I'll suck even mo'