Anyone else get some today...?

[icelanticskier]

when the water feels like a bathtub at 7AM because the air is 10 degrees colder.

heh, was just having this conversation recently. this guy was like, "how do you surf when the air temp is in the single digits or colder fahrenheit and a good winds blowing?". i say it's quite pleasant as the water temp is 39 degrees which feels downright balmy. add in riding a shortboard where i'm nipple/armpit deep submerged at all times while waiting for waves and it's super comfy. way more comfy than sitting on a chairlift. i can't even imagine how warm a 6/5/4 wetsuit is. 5/4 is plenty warm.

got some this am. leanest late summer/fall in memory. walked the dog down to the beach and noticed clean knee+ coming in with good shape. looked at my watch and figured i could do 45-1hr and still ride my bike the 13 miles in to work for noon. caught some fun ones along side some visiting cali longboard pros out here for an event. they thought the water was cold. sets were thigh high so it was worth 45 minutes of my time. the 40 minute bike ride in was fucking astonishingly gorgeous tho. perfect pedaling weather.

ride n smile!

rog

[My Pet Powder Goat]

Maine bound this Monday-Tuesday. Promising forcast!

[Atrain505]

Liv2ski. South of Tofino but not really near there. Tofino has great summer waves though.
Headed out. Pissing rain. Swell rising. Today should be damn good. Tomorrow could be scary large. 18@15.
Yes mamm i will have another.

[icelanticskier]

Maine bound this Monday-Tuesday. Promising forcast!

i'll believe once i'm staring at it. tuesday/wednesday look like the days. york should be fun in the am tuesday with the 5' @ 8/9 with north wind and high tide mid morning. perfect actually.

monday evening could build enough. i'll be around. if you need a bed monday night, let me know. should be able to hear the waves from the house tuesday early am

rog

[Ottime]

This thing is not suppose to hit us until tomorrow. Makes sense OR is a bit breezy.

How do the Vancouver Island spots handle a south wind?

Looks like we might even get semi clean conditions up the coast for Mon/Tues. I'll be happy if we get a legit 8@16. This last swell was pretty shadowed and the buoy readings were way higher than what actually made its way into the breaks. Direction is everything. This one looks pretty steep as well, but I can't really complain.

Gonna chase down some 3.5@13 and off shores at my favorite slab tomorrow morning. Looking forward to it.

[liv2ski]

Direction is everything. This one looks pretty steep as well, but I can't really complain.

No you can't as what you get is twice as much as San Diego gets off those steep angled North swells.

[Ottime]

Hey. At least you don't live in LA.

And I think it is a bit more than double.

[PowerWhore7]

Yeah, fuck LA

Been pacificus manifestus (or...CA dreamin ) down in The OC for the last 3 days. Shoulder-HH shack after shack after shack at State Park Thurs-Sat, I’m sure there are still waves today but my arms are like noodles and I took some kook beatings in the pit for sure so I am pretty busted up as well.

Still haven’t figured out how to make it look it effortless and be graceful on the wave. After 7 years of getting after it year round, me = kook

[Long duc dong]

Yeah, fuck LA

Been pacificus manifestus (or...CA dreamin ) down in The OC for the last 3 days. Shoulder-HH shack after shack after shack at State Park Thurs-Sat, I’m sure there are still waves today but my arms are like noodles and I took some kook beatings in the pit for sure so I am pretty busted up as well.

Still haven’t figured out how to make it look it effortless and be graceful on the wave. After 7 years of getting after it year round, me = kook

State park was that big? Makes me think I should head down to Uppers this afternoon.

Newport was fun yesterday morning. Not too big, just shoulder high, but good shape and clean. I actually really like Newport at that size.

I was too lazy this morning to go get it. I going to wait until 430, and hope I get a glassoff.

[PowerWhore7]

State park was that big?

Thurs-Fri it was but it dropped off to shoulder-waist high by Sat, kinda why I stayed in bed this morning. FWIW-Cottons looked like it was going off though....

[Ottime]

I surf both south and north west swell today. I imagine you guys down south benefitted from those souths. They were showing head high here today. Got a combo set that have me a stand up barrel on take off followed by four tight in the pocket just a tad over head slashes. Holy geez. Okay, maybe not a full stand up barrel as my knees were slightly bent and you may have been able to see my feet sticking out at the bottom. Had to wait for them though.

Paddled acros the reef to a right. It was okay, but less than stellar, so I got out. Bumped into some one I know in the cliff, got in the truck, drove north a few miles and got back in at another left. Good, fun session that scored me another (nearly) legit barrel on take off. Yum.

Gonna have some size to it in the morning. OR buoys running in the 20-25'@15-17s range.

[icelanticskier]

ah Monday, ah early morning, ah unexpected waist high sets with a 9 seconds period and light offshores, ah to be back on the 5'10 mini driver

with a bit of patience the nuggets were there for the taking. quick hour or so sesh. will head back out between/after chores depending on how the swell/winds shakes out throughout the day. something tells me a 5pm-dark sesh will be in order.

tomorrow looks like waist-chest with good winds all day. could be a VERY abbreviated work day.....

rog

[Ottime]

Fingerprint of actual swell



Anything less is pretty much just for practice. Like skiing on hard pack.

0 knot onshore at Half Moon Bay and 2 knot off shore at Scott Creek. Mavs will have some size and I bet Scott's is at least triple overhead. Sure wished I was surfi this morning. Regardless, I'll get in before sunset.

[icelanticskier]

ice is even bettah!

rog

[Ottime]

Keep telling yourself that.

BTW, I don't trust that buoy reading. Sounds a bit big. I will need to get some eyes on it.

[Atrain505]

Not that it means anything down there...but as far as trust...last weeks 14@14 was much bigger than this weekends 18@15 up here. Kinda a let down. Was expecting to be vibrating scared, and just got some really ridiculously fun waves. Pretty damn good.

As far as south winds I do not have these spots dialed yet. Saturday started off shore then switched hard on shore and messed it all up. Sunday started cross shore than the winds just died and it glassed off. Arms were destroyed after a while. Drove home from perfect glass to be met by trees blowing sideways, ferry service cancelled due to wind. News reports of biggest September storm in decades...essentially I have no idea what to think about wind reports at these spots yet.

Up in Tofino I have that fairly dialed, not here.

[liv2ski]

Ottime, looking at that CDIP map, my heart is bleeding for you man. Look at the cams in SD County this morning. Soft and waist high I certainly do not need or want triple overhead surf, but head high with a few pluses for weeks on end would be nice.

[PowerWhore7]

I certainly do not need or want triple overhead surf

DUDE! Lets roll up for some 15-18ft faces so the life/coast guard has to come out and save us. Then we’ll point to OTT in the line-up and tell them that we are with that guy



Seriously though, I agree, some HH sets would be nice down here....

[jtran10]

went down to the baja again this weekend. camped at La Fonda, and got a session in there saturday evening and sunday morning. Saturday evening tide was doing weird things to it and waves were real soft. Sunday morning was glassy and about shoulder high. Last time I was down there Labor Day weekend the same beach was almost barreling and consistent, fast head high + lefts. Not as great this time, but it was our first time camping and that was super fun.

Got home and checked the waves yesterday afternoon, and Baja definitely had more size than SD. Water temps felt super warm down there too.

Friends have some pics (I think all non-surfing, but some good spot check pics etc) I'll post up when I get them.

[jtran10]

PS - anyone wanna head back down this coming weekend?

No crowds, looks like some good size coming, camp on the beach. And we only waited an hour at the border Sunday!

[Ottime]

Eyes on it.

I'd call middle peak 6-8'. There might have been a ten footer in the last 30 minutes.

Lots of 7' plus guns headed out. That would piss me off I I was in te water. It would be fine I they were sitting out the back waitin for the bombs but instead they get Andy, paddle in and are grabbing the small ones and then stiff legging long board style cause they have too much board for a tight face. Any how, typical first swell jitters.

As for size. Steamers faces about 170^. This swell I coming from 315^. I'm betting 12 foot at Scott's and 15 at Mavs. Depending on how you measure. I use "rad dude feet" so Middles is about double over head.

Anyway.

Atrain, CDIPs are usually pretty accurate but can be jostled a bit by multiple swells. Which is common in the Pacific. NOAA buoys are semi cumulative in height and show the period where the predominant energy is coming from. So, if there is a 3@4 chop, 6@10 wind swell and a 4@15 ground swell, it might show up as 9@14. You show up at te beach expecting 12 foot faces and it is just head high.

Not sure what the CAnada buoys work like.

For wind, try Wind Alert. They have a pretty good iPhone app.

[Hugh Conway]

didn't pick up a bonus a 4-mile didja this morning?

[icelanticskier]

hmmm, chores. well the chores turned into a lovely 2hr mid day mtb ride with my better half before she had to go teach yoga and I went for a late day surf

what a fucking brilliant evening glass off. knowing i'd be back on it In less than 12 hours on the 5'10 (hopefully), I took for 8'2 for an evening cruise. good call. perfectly peeling a frames in the waist to stomach range with some plus sets. the incoming tide and very light offshore breeze really helped the situation. an evening of takeoff slightly left towards the peak to quick full wrap in rights with cutbacks, top turns, inside section nose trimming and even a few floater finishes. fun.

can't wait for morning

rog

[Ottime]

I heard about that boat and closure. Bummer. I was gonna head that way now. Not sure where I'll go at this point. Point Arena sounds nice. Little wind up there and this is about the perfect swell for the cove.

[Ottime]

NSA gave me and about 8 other clearance. Thank you Uncle Sam. That was nice.