Anyone else get some today...?

[Ottime]

I think you are too far north dude. More will fall to your south. I think. I saw a bullseye in what I think are the San Gorgio(sp). But you do have elevation, so there is that. Did any of that last snowfall stick? Get sum.

Got one tonight. And a few others. But I got that one that was super fun. Gotta try for the next two days as I'm off the coast for the following tour. Gonna go suffer up in wine country for a long weekend.

Is that red cone?

[Atrain505]

Super windy chaos today. Broke a leash while getting pounded by a big set. Long swim in to a multiple dinged up board. Caught some fun ones though. Going flat up here for a bit it seems...work mode.

[PowerWhore7]

Points also tend to create a weaker wave than an open reef or beach break.

Super interesting, must be why DOH at Trestles is fun and 1ft overhead at State Park is nerve racking. All I know about point vs beach break is down here the points are fucking insanely crowded, with most of the best surfers cursing at each other all day & catching all the waves. While the beach breaks at least disperse the millions of fucking joeys (mainly me & my crew) down the beach so everyone has a chance at their own wave.

I bet a deserted point in some far away land that breaks in the same spot and peels forever is just fucking sublime though, never had the opportunity but I am sure it beats the fuck out SoCal beach breaks and points.

[jtran10]

GF out of town this coming weekend, looks like another SSW filling in again. Time to chase some swell!

Think I'm gonna head up your way on one of the days PW, I'll let you know.

[icelanticskier]

All I know about point vs beach break is down here the points are fucking insanely crowded

sounds about right. even here. i'm over it. have been for a loooong time.

pretty sweet morning. drove to ogt in the dark and paddled out at 630, about 1.5 hours before low (perfect). just me and 2 guys, but more crowded than i like it. waist high with some chest high sets and perfect 3+ feet @ a wicked short 6 or so second period. closeouts? not a chance. fun, clean as clean gets a-frame bowls coming through. was fun for about an hour till the crowd grew to 8, maybe 10, and was time for me to go. too many people for me. got some fun ones fer sure. there was about a 20 minute period where everything was lining up right wherever i happen to be. the rest of the time i was like, "fuck, why can't i be over there, or over there, dammit!".

weekend looks somewhat promising....

rog

[Ottime]

PW. Obviously is I a generalization to call points weak and beached punchy. But think of it this way. Is there any where for the water to go? On a point, the energy can "slip" down the line. At a beach, there is just more shallow sand.

Reefs can be super punchy as they are often forcing swells from very deep to very shallow water very quickly. But they also tend to require longer periods which reach down way deeper under water. In fact, very uneven an crevasses reefs create the punchier waves when the period is long enough to make the reef "look" even from the swells perspective. If you have a head 17s period swell it might be "reaching" down 15 or more feet underwater. If the holes in the reef are say 10' deep an 10' wide, a 17s period swell will no notice them and break evenly. But 10s period swell will only break on the shallow parts an flatten out through the holes.

Anyway, a beach has no holes or deep spots. Sure, sandbars allow the waves to peel, but we are often talking about very slight variations in depth.

OTOH, offshore sand bars, like those found north of Cape Hatterass at place like Avon, can act more like sand reefs, with swells bending around them.

Ogt has a lot going on, including a rock wall that extends miles beyond the top of the point and some how refracts energy back onto the point. That place has been hard for me to figure out. It looks like it should shadow a south, but it actually pumps up a south.

So many factors.

Points here in town are crowded, but we have a few fairly empty pint breaks around here. Our good beach breaks are just a crowde as good point from my experience, unless you search off the beaten path.

Closed out beach breaks can be less crowded, but so are shitty reefs and points that arnt working.

I prefer reefs because I know where to line up. I get plenty of exercise not chasing peaks up and down the beach.

As for points, I only ride crowded points when there is plenty of swell and current. I try not to sit still an slowly work my way up the point looking for waves and generally avoid sitting in a pack.

[icelanticskier]

ogt is predictably unpredictable. amazing how a south can get in there. nh was knee high, york was thigh sets at best, and ogt had chest sets with punch. plenty o south in the swell. ladies tee was the best take off spot this am fer sure.

rog

[Ottime]

I finally found the ladies tee on the point I surfed tonight. Did not go thinking the point would be working. This one really wants period up around 20 and we had 11. Just hoped for a section to be working. Took me a long time to find it but I got a few waves that lined up. Surfed solo. Beautiful night.

More thoughts PW. Trestles is not a typical point. It actually act a bit like beach break, but is like an ideal sandbar pointing perfectly into te swell that never moves. Uppers and Cottons, at least, are quite a bit juicier than say, Pleasure Point, which does have a few short board waves, but is mostly a series of soft, easy, long board waves.

I think why Trestles is so easy is that it does an excellent job of creating a distinct peak and wife channel.

Oh channels. Another reason why I like reefs and points. When the surf is big, channels are very fun.

At TOH, OB can be perfection from the beach. Even on a very clean, and lined up day, as soon as you get in the water those channels can be nearly possible to find and one requires super human strength and perseverance just to get out. I have seen more than one day where no one was out, no one was able to get out, and perfect huge barrels were up and down the beach.

OTOH, when any number of reefs or points are that size down here, on te right swell direction, tide and skillful timing, you can have a dry hair paddle out. Which is nice, because an 8'4" does not duck dive all that easily.

Sand City was clean and thumping this morning on our drive to the Aquarium. A certain beach break once mayored by a crazy conservative old bat was likely excellent today.

[jtran10]

I love dry hair paddle outs and channels

[icelanticskier]

i do to. so long as there aren't other human beings on the other end of the rainbow

well maybe 1 for companies sake. at times.

rog

[PedPro]

love me some caramel tubers. had a good session there a few weeks ago, followed by excellent chest to head SD. OT, earlier was referring to a county line several counties north of your turf, offshore sandbar in a bay mouth that loves a 6@16 NW.

Around my neck of the woods, u go to beaches for barrels as the points are typically fat and/or fickle, full of misplaced rocks.

[Ottime]

Caramel I another place that defies reason. How short period wind swell gets in there and makes some awesomeness, while long period south seems to miss it completely, yet faces nearly due south, defies me. Now I'm trying place you and your break PP.

As for tubes, I'd say they are more likely at beaches but we do have plenty of rocky bottom breaks that throw. What I like about a reef tube is they are easily make-able when conditions are right. And they can be quite throaty. OTOH, beach tubes are more numerous and the shift nature can make for some fun long ones.

Wondering this.

With breaks like Lowers, that are easy to paddle out to, and are super easy to surf, and predictable, it is easy for it to become more crowded than the day can handle. But any surfer who is very good can show up and get waves. Meaning, local knowledge has little impact. The wave is too easy.

With beach breaks, having a locals sense of how the sands shift and the beach works with changes in tide, swell, and wind can help a lot. As well as having surfed it the day before. Also, being a surfer with a good "wave sense" can help. The fact that you can rip a wave has less of an impact. It seems to help level the playing field. Quirky reefs and points can do the same. Almost a Wisdom over Strength thing. Although, if you make poor decisions at a beach break, it is nice to be a strong paddler.

Anyway. Is that an attraction to a beach, other than when the surf is too small for a rock bottom break. The equalizer.

I don't like sitting in a crowd and waiting. That can suck. I will often just find another less crowded spot. Like last night at a point that was not really working I surfed alone instead of with 15+ people. Way better experience.

I can still remember surfing M------ in RI years ago as the swell was on its last day of actual swell and one I the old dudes said, "Back to the beach tomorrow." Now I rarely surf the beach when there is swell. And only when some one else suggests it. I know I can rely on finding a piece of rock that is working. And usually finding one that has waves and no crowd. Still, there are days when I'm on a reef and know I should have found some sand to surf instead.

C

[Piggity]

Rain. Also known as the 72 hour poo patrol, unless it's epic of course

[Lee Murian]

arrived in SD just in time for the swell to fade and the rain to start. So I packed up and headed south on tuesday

pulled into Scorpion Bay this afternoon to find waist-shoulder inconsistent waves. Caught a couple fun ones, but if the fx is accurate, Fri-Sun could be pretty fun. Was last here 5 or 6 years ago and I vowed to return, this place is epic.

[Piggity]

Sounds fun! let us know if you head back this way over the weekend, should be a few waves

[Atrain505]

arrived in SD just in time for the swell to fade and the rain to start. So I packed up and headed south on tuesday

pulled into Scorpion Bay this afternoon to find waist-shoulder inconsistent waves. Caught a couple fun ones, but if the fx is accurate, Fri-Sun could be pretty fun. Was last here 5 or 6 years ago and I vowed to return, this place is epic.

I spent ten days there this summer during a month long trip of baja. We had waist to shoulder the whole time we were there, but very consistent. I will be back during a pumping south. Can't imagine it pumping. Seems like they had a shitty summer because I kept looking for a good south and it never really came. Cannot wait for that day.

[jtran10]

piggity, gonna be at oside harbor tomorrow morning around 7:15 if you wanna join.

[liv2ski]

^^^Damn, to bad you guys are so far north. Swamis was fun this morning and what a beautiful fall morning.

[Ottime]

I spent ten days there this summer during a month long trip of baja. We had waist to shoulder the whole time we were there, but very consistent. I will be back during a pumping south. Can't imagine it pumping. Seems like they had a shitty summer because I kept looking for a good south and it never really came. Cannot wait for that day.

How much south does it take to get going. We had a great run of souths from mid May through early August. Only one big south, but the most consistent summer that I can recall is some time. I was thinking it woul have been good this year.

[icelanticskier]

nice lil sleeper (my fave) swell this am. surfed two breaks before work. started out in york on the longboard in glassy waist plus conditions. good shape, prolly coulda been on the 5'10, but whatevs. after surfing there for an hour and letting the tide drop some i headed up to ogt and chilled a bit to let the tide drain some and had the place with just one other guy for a good hour in chest sets with a ton of punch. 5'10 this time. got some fun ones fer sure. surfed another 40 minutes while a crowd grew and the wind got on it a bit.

fun morning. looks like waves all weekend. wind will be a factor for many spots, but not all

rog

[Piggity]

piggity, gonna be at oside harbor tomorrow morning around 7:15 if you wanna join.

Cool, I'll probably be heading that way in the morning. Gonna hit casa amarillo near you after work today as long as traffic isn't too bad.

[Ottime]

Drank a lot of excellent wine and had a few good conversations today. I think there might be a little surf out there, but looking at the models, I'm starting to think about snow again. My parents are in town late next week, can provide child care, and the surf looks very marginal. Guess I'll get a lot of work done in the yard at least.

[Piggity]

While this guy ^ was drinking primo vino, this guy was out surfing windslop high tide mush. Ok, he wins.

Somehow managed to get the fins to disengage on a round house, ended up doing a rail slide for 20ft+ on the face of the wave without the fins re-engaging. I am still completely shocked that this is possible, kinda like sliding a spine on a pow day. Sliding the tail out is one thing but never felt anything like this on a surfboard.

[Piggity]

That view from inside the shack never gets old

http://m.youtube.com/watch?sns=fb&v=...icw%26sns%3Dfb

[Atrain505]

How much south does it take to get going. We had a great run of souths from mid May through early August. Only one big south, but the most consistent summer that I can recall is some time. I was thinking it woul have been good this year.

Seemed to be about 1.8 or 2 to 2.5 @ 14-16 the whole time I was there. Meant waist to shoulder high waves at low tide. Still incredibly fun when those waves are 45 seconds long. I kept looking this summer for anything bigger and while there were a few they seemed to always be one or two days proceeded by or followed by dead flat. I want to be there for a big south proceeded or followed by head high. On my life goal list. Hopefully this next summer it happens. Apparently there are a bunch of waves close by for when the bay's go flat, but I had no reason to explore.

Ott...would be a great place to bring the family when it is waist to shoulder high. I think it is quite possibly the easiest set of waves you could possibly learn on anywhere, but still insanely fun for even the best surfer.