PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[singlesline]

sure its been asked but can't find it using search..

doesn't look like you can buy svst products without being a shop, anyone know what glue is most similar/the same?

If you really want the SVST stuff:

https://www.slidewright.com/dp/SVST-...-Sealant-2-oz/

[J. Barron DeJong]

If you really want the SVST stuff:

https://www.slidewright.com/dp/SVST-...-Sealant-2-oz/

If you really want the SVST stuff, just buy Titebond II. That’s what it is.

Click the link for the SDS here:

https://www.svst.com/Shop/Hole-Plugs...Glue-Pint.html

and get this:



That’s Titebond II.

[Dexter Rutecki]

What's your method for finding the longitudinal centerline? The further apart your measured centerline points are, the less chance there is to introduce some error.

Yeah, I checked many times and once or twice more even after I'd tapped and was ready to drill just in case. I want to say my centerline points were around heel piece to toe piece distance?? So based on my BSL a little over 314mm. I think long enough, and definitely the same as I've done before without issue. I really think I got movement on the bit when I started drilling, I just don't fucking know why. My marks and taps had to be right...I'm so paranoid about measuring, and still I fucked it up. Motherfucker.

[bearcub69]

thanks, I know everyone has their own opinion on glues/epoxy and it's been discussed a bunch but the svst is what ive used in the past at my local shop and its always held up for me

[XXX-er]

I use a T-square to mark lines from either metal ski edge and spilt the difference

then I centerpunch with a 4 " drywall screw, then drill a small pilot hole so the 5/32 bit doesnt walk on the top sheet

or one can also use whichever sized bit they have obsessed over in a 3 page post on TGR

measure from tail to figure where the binding goes front to back

I had to remount a tech toe 1cm rearward from the other ski cuz of a delam/ pullout and buddy said he couldn't tell the difference. i did ask him if he wanted every thing moved on both skis but he said don't bother

[Dexter Rutecki]

Yeah, I basically do exactly the same, but I drill twice for the small pilot holes--tiny hole first (like the smallest possible bit), then one maybe one third the size of the actual bit. Maybe still not enough? Anyway, maybe there's not an answer to this, but clearly I did something wrong and would like to not repeat it.

[chicken feathers]

measure from tail to figure where the binding goes front to back

r

Last mount I did I thought the recommended line was off when measuring from the tail. But measuring from the tip, the lines were in the same spot. Turns out one ski had 3mm more plastic bumper on the tail.

Point is measure a bunch of the variables if you’re OCD.

[chicken feathers]

Yeah, I basically do exactly the same, but I drill twice for the small pilot holes--tiny hole first (like the smallest possible bit), then one maybe one third the size of the actual bit. Maybe still not enough? Anyway, maybe there's not an answer to this, but clearly I did something wrong and would like to not repeat it.

I can imagine using different bits for
pilot holes could lead to the final hole wandering a little. Personally I mark w/ an awl, then a punch, deep enough to guide the tip of the bit.

[halliday]

So I'll start by saying I'm apparently an idiot, as I managed to fuck up a mount. And I've also searched through a bit of this thread (first few pages, last few) but haven't found exactly what I'm wondering.

What did I do wrong? I've mounted bindings before, doing exactly the same thing, with good results. This time I have both a heel piece and toe piece that are slightly askew (one a little more than the other--the bad one is maybe 3-4mm off center--laterally, they're fine fore/aft). Now, I will say that when I ski the things I don't notice, or I don't think I do (can't tell what I'm imagining vs. what's real).

Measured many times, tapped, drilled freehand. When I lined the bindings up with the taps before drilling all looked good. Makes me want to use a drill press from now on, although I understand that I shouldn't have to. Only thing I can think of is that somehow the bit managed to wander, but again I did the same thing I've always done. I will say it's possible I've only done one other pair that had a metal sheet, so I'm wondering if that might have contributed? No idea why that might be the case...

Pisses me off.

Signed,
Ashamed

You need to use a really sharp bit for metal sheets. You can use a dull bit but you will be spinning longer before it cuts and you will be pressing down on the bit harder making things worse if shit goes wrong. It's harder to recover a fucked up hole placement with metal in the ski.

[XXX-er]

the bit always follows the pilot hole so if you drill the pilot hole correctly the hole will be correct, also a pilot hole is easier to get in the exact right place than the large bit, also if you fucked up a measuremnet the tiny hole might be easier to deal with than the big hole


but I don't see any reason to drill a pilot with multiple bits ?

[AlpiNord]

Yeah, I basically do exactly the same, but I drill twice for the small pilot holes--tiny hole first (like the smallest possible bit), then one maybe one third the size of the actual bit. Maybe still not enough? Anyway, maybe there's not an answer to this, but clearly I did something wrong and would like to not repeat it.

(You might consider removing the bindings and rechecking the layout. You can fill holes and redrill if off by 3-4mm.)

Coupled with our ski centering & binding layout tools, the SlideWright Boot Sole Length & Center Gauge helps considerably to double check your alignment & positioning (and confirm BSC & BSL). You can download the PDF and print your own.



Marking your holes with an awl, highlight them, place bindings over the holes to confirm is good practice. Adjust as needed, then use a punch, to enlarge the hole for a positive seat for your SHARP drill bit.

[Dexter Rutecki]

I can imagine using different bits for
pilot holes could lead to the final hole wandering a little. Personally I mark w/ an awl, then a punch, deep enough to guide the tip of the bit.

My thinking was that it was easier to be exact with the pilot holes that way (using a tiny bit first to really be exactly in the punch), and by enlarging the initial hole it reduced the chances for the bit to wander.

You need to use a really sharp bit for metal sheets. You can use a dull bit but you will be spinning longer before it cuts and you will be pressing down on the bit harder making things worse if shit goes wrong. It's harder to recover a fucked up hole placement with metal in the ski.

I will say it took a long time to drill every hole. Once the bit hit the metal I did have to press somewhat hard to really get the metal filing to start flying around. But I wasn't aware of the bit moving at that point (doesn't mean it didn't). Maybe the problem was a dull bit.

Thanks, Alpin. I've known about that centergauge pdf thing, but have never used it. I'll try it whenever I next mount. I do follow the procedure you described with marking, punching, checking with the bindings after, etc. Just likely not a very sharp bit...

[tenB]

Make sure your centerline runs 6-8” past the ends of both the heel and toe jigs. Use a spring loaded hole punch to mark your drill holes , then check that they are all equal distance from the center line. Drilling a pilot hole without a hole punch will result in drill bit travel, and your mount will not be aligned.

Be sure you find the center of the ski using the skis actual edges on the bottom of the ski, NOT the center of the topsheet.

[Dexter Rutecki]

Make sure your centerline runs 6-8” past the ends of both the heel and toe jigs. Use a spring loaded hole punch to mark your drill holes , then check that they are all equal distance from the center line. Drilling a pilot hole without a hole punch will result in drill bit travel, and your mount will not be aligned.

Be sure you find the center of the ski using the skis actual edges on the bottom of the ski, NOT the center of the topsheet.

Heh, stopped reading when I saw the words 'jigs.' What do I look like, a World Cup ski tech?? Take it easy, Mr. Big Time Shop Pro.

[bearcub69]

Be sure you find the center of the ski using the skis actual edges on the bottom of the ski, NOT the center of the topsheet.

But its so much easier to measure off the topsheet
And ill continue to measure off the topsheet hopefully it doesn't come back to bite me

[XXX-er]

Make sure your centerline runs 6-8” past the ends of both the heel and toe jigs. Use a spring loaded hole punch to mark your drill holes , then check that they are all equal distance from the center line. Drilling a pilot hole without a hole punch will result in drill bit travel, and your mount will not be aligned.

Be sure you find the center of the ski using the skis actual edges on the bottom of the ski, NOT the center of the topsheet.

Yup this ^^ cuz even if you don't use jigs drawing the lines on painters tape between point that are farther apart gives a more accurate centerline for better layout

same with measuring off the steel ski edge becuz most top sheets have rounded cap edges which are hard to get a good measurment with a t-square so they are not at all accurate if you want good layout

its all about good layout & best practises

4 " drywall screw works for a really sharp center punch and you get a whole bag of them for a few bucks

[SoVT Joey]

Heh, stopped reading when I saw the words 'jigs.' What do I look like, a World Cup ski tech?? Take it easy, Mr. Big Time Shop Pro.

Dexter what binding is it you mounted.


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[Dexter Rutecki]

They're blue.

Don't actually know...STH 816, is that how Salomon designates them? These:

[Brasso]

That's a STH2. Those brakes look really wide btw.

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[Dhiler17]

Mounting my own fucking skis with the Mottn jig. Next level resource for the collective.


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[Core Shot]

Roo Glue, how many times must I repeat this?

Have you seen a kangaroo fight?

How the hell do you jack them off to get the glue?

[rjenz]

How close should you expect a shop to get to the recommended line? I might have expected +/- 0.5cm, but 2cm forward of the line seems like a bit of a miss...?

[bearcub69]

you came to the mount your own fuckin skis thread to tell us the shop fucked up?

half a cm give or take can happen. the jig at the shop I mounted my skis at would consistently push my bindings .5cm forward from where I actually wanted them.
.5cm doesn't seem like a big deal but it certainly can be

[Brasso]

That's a huge fuckup. Another point scored for MYOFS.

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[Doremite]

How close should you expect a shop to get to the recommended line? I might have expected +/- 0.5cm, but 2cm forward of the line seems like a bit of a miss...?

Yes, that’s a miss. .5cm I wouldn’t sweat. >.75cm I would unless I directed them to do so. Not that I would given I mount my own fucking skis. You should too.

Bring them back unless you want to be that far forward, which you probably don’t.