PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[Meadow Skipper]

What are plugs? What I consider plugs are the things you put in holes when you are done with them, to keep moisture away from core.

These are plugs, or you can use pieces cut from bamboo bbq skewers.
https://www.tognar.com/plastic-ski-binding-hole-plugs/

Yes, you use them to fill holes and keep moisture out, which seems to be exactly what I believe you are trying to do by filling holes with epoxy…or should be. Plugs and carpenter’s glue will be infinitely easier to take out than any kind of epoxy, and if done right will prevent moisture from getting into the core

Is there an epoxy that’s gonna be stronger than wood glue, but still able to break free with heat or something when I want to remove?

I believe you are wrong (jong) to be putting emphasis on epoxy strength for filling holes. Epoxy in binding holes in skis won’t significantly affect the overall ‘strength’ of the ski. Filling holes is to prevent moisture from getting into the core.

And just for perspective, IMO you will never find an epoxy that will easily come out of binding holes. Plugs and carpenter’s glue will come out more easily.

And FWIW, there are significant reasons to be skeptical of re-using binding holes, especially after they’ve been plugged and the skis have been used after plugging.

Edit: ^ unless you’re using inserts, in which case just drill the damn expoxy (or whatever) out.

Editx2: Disregard me if I’m misunderstanding (and I might be) and that you just want to reuse the holes right away, not plugging them and coming back later. In that case like other posts have said, just heat the screw and back it out. Use marine grade epoxy.

[XXX-er]

I would just use a slow set epoxy if you want the strongest glue it will stick to the screw SO before you try to remove the screws remember to hit the screwheads with a soldering iron BEFORE you strip the head

[forumskier]

These are plugs, or you can use pieces cut from bamboo bbq skewers.
https://www.tognar.com/plastic-ski-binding-hole-plugs/

Yes, you use them to fill holes and keep moisture out, which seems to be exactly what I believe you are trying to do by filling holes with epoxy…or should be. Plugs and carpenter’s glue will be infinitely easier to take out than any kind of epoxy, and if done right will prevent moisture from getting into the core


I believe you are wrong (jong) to be putting emphasis on epoxy strength for filling holes. Epoxy in binding holes in skis won’t significantly affect the overall ‘strength’ of the ski. Filling holes is to prevent moisture from getting into the core.

And just for perspective, IMO you will never find an epoxy that will easily come out of binding holes. Plugs and carpenter’s glue will come out more easily.

And FWIW, there are significant reasons to be skeptical of re-using binding holes, especially after they’ve been plugged and the skis have been used after plugging.

Edit: ^ unless you’re using inserts, in which case just drill the damn expoxy (or whatever) out.

Editx2: Disregard me if I’m misunderstanding (and I might be) and that you just want to reuse the holes right away, not plugging them and coming back later. In that case like other posts have said, just heat the screw and back it out. Use marine grade epoxy.

Yup I'm talking about reusing them to screw into now. Still, your posts have been helpful.

Thanks to all you guys

I would just use a slow set epoxy if you want the strongest glue it will stick to the screw SO before you try to remove the screws remember to hit the screwheads with a soldering iron BEFORE you strip the head

This is what I was originally thinking, but don't know much about actual ski work, so wanted confirmation. I'm going to do this, or what MO was telling me on the HL threads about silicone bathroom adhesive.

[Meadow Skipper]

^ Got it. I suppose I’m easily confused these daze…must be my age.

[forumskier]

I also could have worded my original post slightly better, talking about actual screwing, to make it more clear.

[XXX-er]

I also could have worded my original post slightly better, talking about actual screwing, to make it more clear.

TGR is a print medium SO write your post and go advanced and read to see if it makes any sense

you might wonder how i would have > 31000 posts ?

Answering the same question on which glue to use even tho

its all in the 276 pages of mounting one's fucking skis

[MyNameIsAugustWest]

And now back to our regularly scheduled program....

Picked up a pair of Montero ARs from some dentist on SkiTalk. Man those people turn over some high end skis. Not what most maggots are looking for but I ski in Southern Vermont where it's mostly tilted hockey rinks. Got a great end of season deal on some Strives.

ETA: I measured about 8 times after mounting on 2 different 2X4s. Used a paper template but now I don't 'member which one. Also, no beers or weed until after they were done.

[waxloaf]

Insert install query for you guys --

First, some background - I've mounted at least 20 pairs of skis so know my way around the process, I use a drill press and proper bits/tap, I take my time, and my mounts are almost always perfect. Most of my mounts are alpine, but I've done a couple for pins. For pins I do the one-hole-at-a-time process to ensure good alignment.

Currerently I'm building out a 3-ski touring quiver. Last season I absolutely loved the the ATK Trofeos (with R01 plate) on my touring DD skis, and I don't want to use any other touring binding this season. So instead of buying more Trofeos for my two other touring skis, I am planning to put inserts in all three pairs and then move the Trofeos between the skis as needed. I tour about 20 days per season and am on my DDs 80-90% of the time, so I anticipate only moving the bindings a few times per season (essentially, when we get significant fresh and I want something wider--unfortunately rare here in Maine nowadays--or if I go out west).

So I've got one ski (my touring DDs) where I need to enlarge the holes for inserts, and two skis where I need to drill new holes for inserts.

My questions for the insert pros:
- when I am enlarging the holes, any tips to ensure that I am dead center? My gut is to just eye it up as best I can, and then clamp the ski to the press and drill.
- For enlarging the holes, would you all do one insert at a time for a pin mount to make sure my alignment is right on?
- For the new mounts on the other two skis, do you all recommend doing a dry mount first, and then enlarging the holes later, or just jumping right into doing the inserts? If the latter, do you do one insert at a time to ensure good pin alignment? I expect that doing it one at a time will be time consuming, but I'm fine with that assuming it gets me the perfect mount that I want.

Any other tips for a first time insert install? I really want to avoid any screw ups and/or needing rescue inserts.

Thanks mags

[waxoff]

My way of doing it. The skis that already have been mounted. Just drill the holes with the correct insert bit, then tap. I'd do it freehand, just bc I never use a drill press. For the virgin skis I'd drill and mount for the ordinary screws and dry install, just because...

When I'm confident about holes location, i.e. when the bindings matches holes for a proper mount. I would drill and tap for all inserts at the same time. Works for me...

[halliday]

re drilling pre existing holes for inserts is no big deal. Just keep the drill bit plumb and as usual using a sharp bit helps.

[SoVT Joey]

Insert install query for you guys --

First, some background - I've mounted at least 20 pairs of skis so know my way around the process, I use a drill press and proper bits/tap, I take my time, and my mounts are almost always perfect. Most of my mounts are alpine, but I've done a couple for pins. For pins I do the one-hole-at-a-time process to ensure good alignment.

Currerently I'm building out a 3-ski touring quiver. Last season I absolutely loved the the ATK Trofeos (with R01 plate) on my touring DD skis, and I don't want to use any other touring binding this season. So instead of buying more Trofeos for my two other touring skis, I am planning to put inserts in all three pairs and then move the Trofeos between the skis as needed. I tour about 20 days per season and am on my DDs 80-90% of the time, so I anticipate only moving the bindings a few times per season (essentially, when we get significant fresh and I want something wider--unfortunately rare here in Maine nowadays--or if I go out west).

So I've got one ski (my touring DDs) where I need to enlarge the holes for inserts, and two skis where I need to drill new holes for inserts.

My questions for the insert pros:
- when I am enlarging the holes, any tips to ensure that I am dead center? My gut is to just eye it up as best I can, and then clamp the ski to the press and drill.
- For enlarging the holes, would you all do one insert at a time for a pin mount to make sure my alignment is right on?
- For the new mounts on the other two skis, do you all recommend doing a dry mount first, and then enlarging the holes later, or just jumping right into doing the inserts? If the latter, do you do one insert at a time to ensure good pin alignment? I expect that doing it one at a time will be time consuming, but I'm fine with that assuming it gets me the perfect mount that I want.

Any other tips for a first time insert install? I really want to avoid any screw ups and/or needing rescue inserts.

Thanks mags

See if you can get one of the 3d printed jigs for that atk. Then clamp the jigs to the ski aligning the holes using a normal size 3,5 bit and drill the holes bigger. It will help the alignment.

New mount as long as I know I want the binding in that spot on the ski I mount inserts directly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[forumskier]

Normally I just think of glue for the screw holes, but one of my mounts one time from Tahoe Sports Hub had “glue” all up under the bindings platforms as well, pretty liberal amounts. Didn’t notice much expansion under the binding after full curing either. When I pulled those screws out, and tried taking bindings off, it seemed like there was quite a bit of added retention from the “glue” and binding bottom surface w/ the topsheet, but not so much it ruined anything during removal. I liked that.

I’ve only experienced this once, and I remember the guy who did it was the lead Tech at Tahoe Sports Hub and he did it for me last minute at the end of the day in less than 10 minutes time.

What was this, why was it done, and what kind of glue could it have been with little expansion?

[ctsmith]

Back to the inserts - enlarging existing holes, the larger bit will self center on the hole, I wouldn’t bother with the drill press for this. Another option for the new skis is to use the drill press to make your own jig out of a piece of hardwood or something like Baltic birch plywood. Get the holes right on this, then clamp it to the ski.

[gwat]

what kind of glue could it have been with little expansion?

I’m no expert but PVA glues (classic yellow wood glue) don’t expand.
Polyurethane glues like Gorilla or Lepage are the ones that expand.
I do like a little overflow on the topsheet, it certainly helps solidify the mount.

[XXX-er]

That Swissific dude used 2 sided tape so there is that

edit: This was not april fools, Swiss would have actualy done this

[pfluffenmeister]

There was the April Fools velcro mount.

[Djongo Unchained]

Normally I just think of glue for the screw holes, but one of my mounts one time from Tahoe Sports Hub had “glue” all up under the bindings platforms as well, pretty liberal amounts. Didn’t notice much expansion under the binding after full curing either. When I pulled those screws out, and tried taking bindings off, it seemed like there was quite a bit of added retention from the “glue” and binding bottom surface w/ the topsheet, but not so much it ruined anything during removal. I liked that.

I’ve only experienced this once, and I remember the guy who did it was the lead Tech at Tahoe Sports Hub and he did it for me last minute at the end of the day in less than 10 minutes time.

What was this, why was it done, and what kind of glue could it have been with little expansion?

He was using regular glue and was late to leave the shop for a date. It didn't suck down into the hole so he put more on the hole and mounted it. At the end of the shift, ya get what ya get.

I use fucking elmers. A toothpick to get it down into the hole. Fills space water might get into but I find my screws rarely move with or without glue. Just waterproofing really. Never had a rotted hole either but worked on a couple.

If I drilled my skis with the frequency that some mags do, I might use something burlier.

[buttahflake]

Roo Glue, how many times must I repeat this?

[ASmileyFace]

There was the April Fools velcro mount.

Keeping this on in the back burner for future use. Got a few local folks who might need this treatment...

[XXX-er]

Roo Glue, how many times must I repeat this?

276 pages apparently

I watched a short vid of atomic race room types mounting bindings and they didnt use ANY glue

[chicken feathers]

He was using regular glue and was late to leave the shop for a date. It didn't suck down into the hole so he put more on the hole and mounted it. At the end of the shift, ya get what ya get.

I use fucking elmers. A toothpick to get it down into the hole. Fills space water might get into but I find my screws rarely move with or without glue. Just waterproofing really. Never had a rotted hole either but worked on a couple.

If I drilled my skis with the frequency that some mags do, I might use something burlier.

That was about my thought too.

And yeah, glue waterproofs. Lubrication of the screw is a benefit too. Try running a screw in by hand dry vs. with glue.

At the end of the day it’s just drilling holes and driving screws home.

I still overthink it though.

[XXX-er]

You can rebuild a stripped hole with 24 hr epoxy if needed and its in the 276 pages at least 50 times

and yup its all just good layout

[Dexter Rutecki]

So I'll start by saying I'm apparently an idiot, as I managed to fuck up a mount. And I've also searched through a bit of this thread (first few pages, last few) but haven't found exactly what I'm wondering.

What did I do wrong? I've mounted bindings before, doing exactly the same thing, with good results. This time I have both a heel piece and toe piece that are slightly askew (one a little more than the other--the bad one is maybe 3-4mm off center--laterally, they're fine fore/aft). Now, I will say that when I ski the things I don't notice, or I don't think I do (can't tell what I'm imagining vs. what's real).

Measured many times, tapped, drilled freehand. When I lined the bindings up with the taps before drilling all looked good. Makes me want to use a drill press from now on, although I understand that I shouldn't have to. Only thing I can think of is that somehow the bit managed to wander, but again I did the same thing I've always done. I will say it's possible I've only done one other pair that had a metal sheet, so I'm wondering if that might have contributed? No idea why that might be the case...

Pisses me off.

Signed,
Ashamed

[bearcub69]

sure its been asked but can't find it using search..

doesn't look like you can buy svst products without being a shop, anyone know what glue is most similar/the same?

[FullStop]

So I'll start by saying I'm apparently an idiot, as I managed to fuck up a mount. And I've also searched through a bit of this thread (first few pages, last few) but haven't found exactly what I'm wondering.

What did I do wrong? I've mounted bindings before, doing exactly the same thing, with good results. This time I have both a heel piece and toe piece that are slightly askew (one a little more than the other--the bad one is maybe 3-4mm off center--laterally, they're fine fore/aft). Now, I will say that when I ski the things I don't notice, or I don't think I do (can't tell what I'm imagining vs. what's real).

Measured many times, tapped, drilled freehand. When I lined the bindings up with the taps before drilling all looked good. Makes me want to use a drill press from now on, although I understand that I shouldn't have to. Only thing I can think of is that somehow the bit managed to wander, but again I did the same thing I've always done. I will say it's possible I've only done one other pair that had a metal sheet, so I'm wondering if that might have contributed? No idea why that might be the case...

Pisses me off.

Signed,
Ashamed

What's your method for finding the longitudinal centerline? The further apart your measured centerline points are, the less chance there is to introduce some error.