PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[BC.]

Q: Do all Look Pivots (14, 15, GW, pre-GW) all use the same template?

I think the answer is yes, but wondering if the tgr hive mind can confirm my suspicions. After all, there’s only 1 template.

Yes..All Pivots have same mount pattern.

[Core Shot]

Not sure what thread.

I had my boy plastic print a fancy center finder I saw here.. He said it was off 1mm
I called BS.
Laid out a new mount and holy shit the kid was right.

I’m going back to my carpenter speed square. It works better

[spanky]

Any easy way to do kids bindings? Templates don't seem to be easy to come by.

Typically, we mount our own skis as we're fanatics and wouldn't want to risk the chance of a shop rat (I was one once) screwing up our boards. Secondarily, I'm assuming it's also because we might be cheap.

For the kid's binders, why not just have a shop do it?

For the amount of time I spent on mounting my bindings yesterday, it definitely wasn't cost effective. (but oh so satisfying).

[teledad]

For kids skis you'll need a 7mm bit (or be very careful with a 9mm bit) to avoid drilling through the ski.

[XXX-er]

Not sure what thread.

I had my boy plastic print a fancy center finder I saw here.. He said it was off 1mm
I called BS.
Laid out a new mount and holy shit the kid was right.

I’m going back to my carpenter speed square. It works better

you can check the accuracy of any fancy DL by holding up the actual binding against the actual template

actually

[Shorty_J]

you can check the accuracy of any fancy DL by holding up the actual binding against the actual template

actually

He's talking about a center finder, not a template.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

[Core Shot]

He's talking about a center finder, not a template.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

Yeah. I’m out four bucks of filament. And $1.80 in screws. It looks cool. But a fricking speed square is more accurate. Thats just wrong.

[XXX-er]

Yeah. I’m out four bucks of filament. And $1.80 in screws. It looks cool. But a fricking speed square is more accurate. Thats just wrong.

but look at all the time you saved !

[AlpiNord]

http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/centerline-tool-2-handles.jpg[/IMG]

[Core Shot]

http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/centerline-tool-2-handles.jpg[/IMG]

[/QUOTE]

Too complicated.

My standard is a speed square. Make marks @ 2

[AlpiNord]

Too complicated.

My standard is a speed square. Make marks @ 2” or whatever from each edge. Then eyeball the distance between those marks.
Make 3 or more center marks and then straight edge down the middle of the tape. I swear it’s more accurate than a jig.

PS. Nice Icelantics. They always have great art.

IE:


Those Keepers are beasts and a total blast in deep snow to packed powder.

[waveshello]

I use a speed square too, different method though. Probably more accurate and just as easy:

I put something (small can of paint usually) on the ski, slide the square back against the can, and make a mark along the diagonal part of the square that crosses the centerline. Then I flip the square over, slide it back against the can, and make another diagonal mark that intersects the first. X marks the spot. Do that in a few locations and then draw your centerline through the Xs.

The paint can is just to positively index the fore/aft position of the square for the second diagonal mark. You can use any object but round shape placed near the centerline is best, especially if the ski has a lot of sidecut.

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[skinipenem]

In use a 3d printed center finder. It is accurate. Self check each time by marking center then flipping center finder tool and marking again. Avoid overtightening the tool.fwiw

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[vonn]

Got a single spinner while reusing some holes for a heel piece, is the agreed upon advice still:
- Try fiberglass + waterproof slow-set epoxy
- If that fails, quiver killer or helicoil?

[ApexSkua]

Interested in trying a mount, I watched the dynaduke videos and read the guides on the slideright website and I am still confused on a few points.


In the dynaduke video he measures the centerline by making measurements from the topsheet. The slideright website indicates that you should use a specialized tool for this, measuring from the base edge. Is the preciseness necessary here or is going off the topsheet ok?


In the dynaduke video he just punches a small hole and uses a bit with a collar to drill. Obviously I don’t want to ruin the first pair of skis I try this on, do you have to have a really steady hand to get away with this? Should I just pony up for a Jigarex?


In the same vein, Slideright suggests tapping a hole but dynaduke guy just drills it and fills the hole with glue. Is tapping necessary?


How does the process differ for demo binders, am I just mounting the demo tracks? Does the placement of toe/heel still differ for BSL or is it in a fixed distance from the center line?

[californiagrown]

Measure from edge to edge.

Buy the $20 stepped drill bit from slidewright so you dont have to fuck around with collars and slightly different bit sizes.

Ive never tapped anything and done 10+ mounts and am a bigger guy.

Nothing changes when mounting demo bindings.


Its a lot easier than you think. Get out of your head and just Mount Your Own Fucking Skis.

[XXX-er]

Got a single spinner while reusing some holes for a heel piece, is the agreed upon advice still:
- Try fiberglass + waterproof slow-set epoxy
- If that fails, quiver killer or helicoil?

yup, there are lots of threads on how-to

[vonn]

yup, there are lots of threads on how-to

Ha I was mostly going off your posts. One question I had was whether I actually need to take the heel piece off before trying the fiberglass method? I'm worried about trashing the threads in one of the other holes when doing so.

[XXX-er]

Ha I was mostly going off your posts. One question I had was whether I actually need to take the heel piece off before trying the fiberglass method? I'm worried about trashing the threads in one of the other holes when doing so.

not really

[ApexSkua]

I'm a little confused. How does the stepped drill bit help with drilling straight/overdrilling? Wouldn't a collar work better?

[vonn]

I'm a little confused. How does the stepped drill bit help with drilling straight/overdrilling? Wouldn't a collar work better?

Collars can slide and the depth will be less precise than a solid bit. I'm sure there are other reasons why it's preferable too that others might chime in with.

[ApexSkua]

Okay, that's making sense to me. I might get the drill guide on SlideWright's website, just to be safe. Better safe than sorry

[XXX-er]

I'm a little confused. How does the stepped drill bit help with drilling straight/overdrilling? Wouldn't a collar work better?

I have had collars slip same with bits of tape so I suggest the wine bottle method,

buy a bottle of wine with a real cork, drink the wine but wait a day to drill, drill thru the top of the cork, slip the bit up or down in the chuck till you have the right amount of drill sticking out, the only thing that can go rong from there is the bit slips and you don't drill deep enough so it should be impossibe to fuck up

[sb]

Re mount tele waak a mole karhu fishscale planks with 3pin/cable clamps.

Reused old holes from those bulldawg things.

Meadow brapbrap

[californiagrown]

Collars can slide and the depth will be less precise than a solid bit. I'm sure there are other reasons why it's preferable too that others might chime in with.

You can fuck up most other parts of the mount, and the consequences are really not that big. you can pretty much just plug a hole and remount. But if the collar slips and you drill through the ski, or the collar depth isnt deep enough and you dimple everysingle screw (no one checks until after all screws are tightened down), you have actually kindof fucked your ski up.

So, just buy the $20 bit to eliminate entirely the worst-case outcome.


As for a drill guide... if you arent mounting inserts, who the fuck cares if the screws are a few degrees off vertical?