PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[SumJongGuy]

I have had collars slip same with bits of tape so I suggest the wine bottle method,

buy a bottle of wine with a real cork, drink the wine but wait a day to drill, drill thru the top of the cork, slip the bit up or down in the chuck till you have the right amount of drill sticking out, the only thing that can go rong from there is the bit slips and you don't drill deep enough so it should be impossibe to fuck up

I made the collars the ideal size for the task depth at hand with the bit all the way in the chuck. Drilling with the bit not all the way in is gonna end bad sometimes.. really bad.. Got two on a bits in my tuning gear box I've been using for 20+ years. One's for jr skis, one's for adult skis. Probably 30 pairs of skis with no OOPS.

[XXX-er]

yeah so the selection of the standard wine bottle cork for your drill collar ensures there is enough bit in the chuck to prevent a catastrophe, but if some dentist from colorado trying to save money on a ski mount can't run a drill without fucking up

I certainly wouldn't want his hands in my mouth, just sayn


Is a wine bottle cork just a really long drill collar that doesnt need a setscrew ?

[Shorty_J]

yeah so the selection of the standard wine bottle cork for your drill collar ensures there is enough bit in the chuck to prevent a catastrophe, but if some dentist from colorado trying to save money on a ski mount can't run a drill without fucking up

I certainly wouldn't want his hands in my mouth, just say


Is a wine bottle cork just a really long drill collar that doesnt need a setscrew ?

I think the dentist would just spend the $20 on the stepped bit... but I'm no dentist so what do I know?

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[XXX-er]

I think the dentist would just spend the $20 on the stepped bit... but I'm no dentist so what do I know?

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even the one asking about drill collars with the itty bitty setscrew that slips ?

[old mexico]

Quick question as I am crossed between how tight I need properly screw the bindings into a ski…. Haha

My skis have printed on them to only us 4nm of torque but I’ve also been told to make sure the binding is flush and not coming off the ski. To get the binding flat it requires a lot more than 4nm but I’m not spinning any of the screws when I achieve that. Im not going crazy on it but it’s pretty damn hand tight when it’s all said and done

Only mounting pivots and I know the metal base is all that you want flush.
I havent torn a binding out and have skied all of my mounts pretty hard but these new dynastars are telling me that YGD


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[waveshello]

Is your top sheet flat? If you didn't chamfer/tap the holes, then you're probably working against the volcanoes forming while you're cranking those screws down.


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[RAB3]

Quick question as I am crossed between how tight I need properly screw the bindings into a ski…. Haha

My skis have printed on them to only us 4nm of torque but I’ve also been told to make sure the binding is flush and not coming off the ski. To get the binding flat it requires a lot more than 4nm but I’m not spinning any of the screws when I achieve that. Im not going crazy on it but it’s pretty damn hand tight when it’s all said and done

Only mounting pivots and I know the metal base is all that you want flush.
I havent torn a binding out and have skied all of my mounts pretty hard but these new dynastars are telling me that YGD


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I hope I’m understanding correctly. I’ve had that happen when I haven’t held the binding down tight enough as I’m screwing the screw in. It’s like it gets bound going through the hole in the binding (always when going through metal). Now I run the screws through the binding a time or two to loosen up the hole before I try to mount it and haven’t had the problem again. 4nm and they’re sucked down flush. I tap regardless of metal or no metal in the ski and having the screw a bit loose and not bind on the binding holes makes it easier to hit the threads too.

[old mexico]

Sounds like that could be it. The first two I did I replaced the toe/afd bases and brake assemblies to new. The screws would stick in them when turned in slightly. I do apply downward pressure on them while screwing then into the ski.

I also do not chamfer/tap the holes but none have had metal that I have encountered this with. These Mpro 105s I got do and I figured I’d ask before I mount up anymore. Thank you


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[skifishbum]

first set of non indie sticks ive bought n mounted in a long time


managed to smack a stump/log pretty good on the first day
compressed the base pretty good but didnt core shot

not sure if the edge woulda survived
ptexed em up and gonna ski em again today

[XXX-er]

Quick question as I am crossed between how tight I need properly screw the bindings into a ski…. Haha

My skis have printed on them to only us 4nm of torque but I’ve also been told to make sure the binding is flush and not coming off the ski. To get the binding flat it requires a lot more than 4nm but I’m not spinning any of the screws when I achieve that. Im not going crazy on it but it’s pretty damn hand tight when it’s all said and done

Only mounting pivots and I know the metal base is all that you want flush.
I havent torn a binding out and have skied all of my mounts pretty hard but these new dynastars are telling me that YGD


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IME sometimes the screw gets hung up in binding holes and the plastic shim rides up the screw threads away from the ski instead of snugging down to the ski no matter how many nm's you use, usually I just take the screws out and try again, you could also try running a drill bit or file thru the binding holes very SLIGHTLY just enough so the screws do not hang up on the binding shim during instal, if you took out the screw you might have a volcano, remove it with something sharp

when you are reinserting screws in a previously used hole if you very gently turn the screw backwards in the hole you should be able to feel where the screw threads start, when you feel the screw drop you are in the beginning of the thread so you can tighten up that screw without cutting more threads becuz cutting more threads is more likely to cause a spinner

[Core Shot]

Collars can slide and the depth will be less precise than a solid bit. I'm sure there are other reasons why it's preferable too that others might chime in with.

Once you buy a ski bit you’ll never go back.

Guaranteed depth. And also it chamfers the hole so no dimples.

If you can drill straight I can’t see the need for a guide.

[skinipenem]

Once you buy a ski bit you’ll never go back.

Guaranteed depth. And also it chamfers the hole so no dimples.

If you can drill straight I can’t see the need for a guide.

Ski bit for the win. Drill press plus ski bit and tap makes the process stupid easy.

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[Shorty_J]

even the one asking about drill collars with the itty bitty setscrew that slips ?

Yeah... the guy with disposable income should spring for the proper solution of the correct bit... over drill collars and wine corks.

All can work fine the the proper bit is close to impossible to fuck up.

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[skinipenem]

Yeah... the guy with disposable income should spring for the proper solution of the correct bit... over drill collars and wine corks.

All can work fine the the proper bit is close to impossible to fuck up.

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Ski bit is well worth the money as insurance from f'ing up a ski.

Having a brilliant friend with a drill press, laser cutter, and 3d printer is priceless.

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[anotherVTskibum]

Tried searching, couldn't find an answer that looked reliable. Does the Strive 14 GW share a hole pattern with any other Amer products, or is it unique?

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[skifishbum]

warden 11

[XXX-er]

All can work fine

yes exactly ^^ there are a number of ways to put a hole in a ski and still people who buy all the stuff but don't really understand what they are doing manage to fuck it up

[Shorty_J]

yes exactly ^^ there are a number of ways to put a hole in a ski and still people who buy all the stuff but don't really understand what they are doing manage to fuck it up

Yup.


Do you think those people would be better off with $20 less or a wine cork where the chance of mistake is higher?


Does using a wine cork make them more knowledgeable?

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[Dee Hubbs]

Once you buy a ski bit you’ll never go back.
Guaranteed depth. And also it chamfers the hole so no dimples.

Not all bits have a chamfer shoulder on them.
In my 7-8 bits only 1/2 of them have the chamfer shoulder, the others are flat.

[Shorty_J]

Not all bits have a chamfer shoulder on them.
In my 7-8 bits only 1/2 of them have the chamfer shoulder, the others are flat.

I'd rather have flat anyway and use a separate chamfer bit.... to avoid drilling the main holes too deep, then flat shoulder is safer.

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[XXX-er]

Yup.


Do you think those people would be better off with $20 less or a wine cork where the chance of mistake is higher?


Does using a wine cork make them more knowledgeable?

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I think a wine cork makes them less likely to fuck up

if you have problems with alcohol and don't like the wine bottle method drilling a hole thru any piece of 1 & 1/2 inch wood will also act as a collar

[AlpiNord]

These stops are pretty bomber and reliable:






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[XXX-er]

those collars actualy look like they won't slip ^^^

I don't buy anything on the internet and shipped from a foreign county so the only drill collars I could find at the local HW store were slightly oversized washers

they were just thick enough to have an allen set screw and they slipped but I supose they were designed to go place a larger collar couldn't fit

[vonn]

Ha I was mostly going off your posts. One question I had was whether I actually need to take the heel piece off before trying the fiberglass method? I'm worried about trashing the threads in one of the other holes when doing so.

First try with the fiberglass fix didn't work out, I think leaving the heel piece on was probably an issue. Stuffed a bunch fiberglass threads into marine epoxy till it was a paste and then stuffed the hole before putting the screw in and tightening to just before it spun. When I took the screw back out after 24 hours it looked like a chunk of the epoxy settled between the top of the hole and the plastic of the heel piece where the screw shank enters. It did seem to have more bite at first, but eventually spun. Will see how try two goes with the heel piece off...

[slcdawg]

I mounted a couple of pair of skis using MottN's printable jig. Pretty slick! Previously I had done several tech and alpine mounts using paper templates. I tend to over analyze the center line and lining up the paper templates perfectly. The jig self centers and saved me a bunch of time.