PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[~mikey b]

and I will give away my BF/QK 1/4” drill bit with stop collar and tap if anyone wants them

[AlpiNord]

Terry I want one of those purple headed taps

Do you need the alpine tap and the knob (along with the stop) or just the knob & stop?




And/or the Binding insert version:



Hopefully, I'll get the next run on the centering tools lasered and finished today or tomorrow & get heading your way.

[AlpiNord]

Does anyone else actually mark the template at the actual boot size number or am I the only one? (Finding that 0.5mm moment on each sheet that marks the spot).

Kinda wondered if people just pick the nearest 5mm or 10mm hash mark & figure the binding span of tolerance covers the rest?

Or is there some other range condition people shoot for?
Most coverage for boots owned (BSL’s in same zone)? Conventional BSL’s for a given boot size?

It depends. If I need to account for multiple boot sole sizes or 'the future'. It also depends on the skis. For stiff, carvers, I've been surprised how I can feel a few mm off of BSC vs on softer all mountain or powder boards. I tested this once using a demo binding and micro adjusted the boot location to feel the difference a moving the BSC made.

[~mikey b]

knob, tap and stop

I’ll put together an order this week

[slcdawg]

Its the C-raider toe and an elongated version of the crest heel.

I ended up getting these. Do you happen to have a link to a template? I searched and couldn't find one.

[MottN]

I ended up getting these. Do you happen to have a link to a template? I searched and couldn't find one.

ATK has official templates on their site.
I think you will have to use two different ones. The crest 10 rental for the heel and the c-raider for the toe.
Here is the heel: https://www.atkbindings.com/wp-conte...-10-rental.pdf


ATK and PLUM are the only ones I found that had published official templates for their bindings.

[MottN]

I ended up getting these. Do you happen to have a link to a template? I searched and couldn't find one.

I mounted mine with my with Jig.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ig-(printable)

If you're interested in a jig like this, they are actually not too bad to ship. ~$10-15 shipping depending on where and the complete jigs are $80-100 depending on which templates and how many. Or get a 3D printer

[lucknau]

Does anyone else actually mark the template at the actual boot size number or am I the only one? (Finding that 0.5mm moment on each sheet that marks the spot).

Kinda wondered if people just pick the nearest 5mm or 10mm hash mark & figure the binding span of tolerance covers the rest?

Or is there some other range condition people shoot for?
Most coverage for boots owned (BSL’s in same zone)? Conventional BSL’s for a given boot size?

I do it using software. I made a bunch of design elements in Inkscape that match the style of Knut’s templates (because they pretty), and I build them from scratch before starting on a set of bindings I haven’t worked with before, either making a new template from my own measurements or using whatever template is available as a starting point and adjusting any measurements that are even a fraction of a mm off. Then I draw a line (in Inkscape) right at the boot center line that I’m mounting for. I mostly mount pivots these days, so I just print my template with my BCL line already on it and I’m good to go.

Oh, I also clamp a thin piece of steel (with a binding screw-sized hole to use as a drill guide) to the ski and made the screw center circle on the templates thick enough that I can line it up perfectly, so I don’t have to use a punch and my drill never wanders.

Ex.




::::@::::

[m5a2fe]

Just went to mount my new skis & bindings and realized the ski has a .3mm thin metal plate... is this thickness worth tapping or do I need to take it to a shop? I only have the 4.1mm drill bit and a #12AB tap won't arrive in time.

From the blaze94 page: "A 0.3 mm thick Titanal binding platform provides direct power transfer and blah blah blah"

[Doremite]

Just went to mount my new skis & bindings and realized the ski has a .3mm thin metal plate... is this thickness worth tapping or do I need to take it to a shop? I only have the 4.1mm drill bit and a #12AB tap won't arrive in time.

From the blaze94 page: "A 0.3 mm thick Titanal binding platform provides direct power transfer and blah blah blah"

I suggest tapping is optional but others may disagree. I rarely tap and that is metal agnostic. Bits can be more appropriately tipped for getting through metal so if your mount is good for the 4.1, go for it. May just need to muscle through the metal a bit depending on the bit but guessing you barely notice it. Godspeed.

[slcdawg]

I mounted mine with my with Jig.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ig-(printable)

If you're interested in a jig like this, they are actually not too bad to ship. ~$10-15 shipping depending on where and the complete jigs are $80-100 depending on which templates and how many. Or get a 3D printer

Dude, you rock! I will take a look at that thread. Thank you!

[Shorty_J]

I suggest tapping is optional but others may disagree. I rarely tap and that is metal agnostic. Bits can be more appropriately tipped for getting through metal so if your mount is good for the 4.1, go for it. May just need to muscle through the metal a bit depending on the bit but guessing you barely notice it. Godspeed.

I will agree that tapping is optional but you should really chamfer the holes before you put the screws in (especially if you are not tapping) or will likely get volcanoes.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

[singlesline]

Alright, first time mounting my own fucking skis.

Testing it on a 2x4


Finished product. Re-used the heel holes from a prior mount which puts me maybe .5cm in front of the line.


Will be my first time with Pivots, they'd better live up to the hype.

[XXX-er]

I will agree that tapping is optional but you should really chamfer the holes before you put the screws in (especially if you are not tapping) or will likely get volcanoes.

Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk

Yup, I have never tapped anything but I do chamfer the top of the hole which prevents the Volcano's,

I do it by hand with a 3/8ths bit, it doesnt take much to remove a little of the top sheet material around the hole

[lucknau]

Just went to mount my new skis & bindings and realized the ski has a .3mm thin metal plate... is this thickness worth tapping or do I need to take it to a shop? I only have the 4.1mm drill bit and a #12AB tap won't arrive in time.

From the blaze94 page: "A 0.3 mm thick Titanal binding platform provides direct power transfer and blah blah blah"

You won’t need to tap in order to drive the screws, and if you’re concerned about volcanoes, you could just drive the screws dry, remove them and shave off the volcanoes, then do the mount.


::::@::::

[sb]

Have not dun a tele mount in a while.

GF is now ready for the snow.

Stokearama!

[AlpiNord]

fkna

Sent via iPhone
Slidewright.com

[~mikey b]

I don’t see the knob as a stand alone item, just in the kit. I have a tap handle though. Also, will my 1/4” stop collar fit the tap? I’m assuming they’re different. I can probably get away w/o the stop collar.

[AlpiNord]

I don’t see the knob as a stand alone item, just in the kit. I have a tap handle though. Also, will my 1/4” stop collar fit the tap? I’m assuming they’re different. I can probably get away w/o the stop collar.

The tap uses a smaller stop. I added the option to the Alpine T-Handle & Tap listing.

[californiagrown]

Does anyone else actually mark the template at the actual boot size number or am I the only one? (Finding that 0.5mm moment on each sheet that marks the spot).

Kinda wondered if people just pick the nearest 5mm or 10mm hash mark & figure the binding span of tolerance covers the rest?

Or is there some other range condition people shoot for?
Most coverage for boots owned (BSL’s in same zone)? Conventional BSL’s for a given boot size?

Do not major in the minors when mounting skis. Get the toe and heel templates to line up about where your BSL is and drill baby drill. The only reason you would need to worry is if you are wanting to miss another set of existing holes or plan to remount in the future so you have to plan hole spacing.

Its mounting skis with a freehand drill in your dimly lit garage using a paper template and some wood glue so you can save $60. Lets not start getting finicky about precision all of a sudden.


*this sentiment only applies to alpine bindings, though touring bindings dont require THAT much more thought or precision.

[Lombardini490]

I’ve got a pair of K2 Hardside from 2011 about to get bindings from a set of donor skis of the same make&model. (The "new" skis needs to be refitted to fit my soles anyway). Problem is I don't know which drill diameter applies. I do understand that ø3.6 mm applies in general, and 4,1 mm for skis with metal laminate. But I really don't know about my skis.

There are no printings on the skis and the only help I got from K2’s support was fitting instructions for the 2022 product line.

If I study the skis, there seems to be some metal shavings in the holes. One pair seems to be drilled to ø3.6 mm. The donors tend to be ø4.1 mm, but one heel part did break off and was reassembled with some kind of inserts a few years ago.

Is there anyone who *knows* or perhaps has some documentation on these antiques?

[waxloaf]

Drill one hole with 3.6, and if metal comes out then switch to 4.1. Easy pease.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ski-wpk]

Anyone have a template for Salomon C3 kids bindings? Search doesn’t return anything. I can probably eyeball it but would prefer a template if possible.

[chill winston]

I love this thread. Just did another old school paper template mount. Before and after.

[Climber Joe]

[ATTACH]436640[/ATTACH

Mount 5 with the jig. Paid it off.

Where did you get an ATK jig?