WRG your experience is exactly why I'm terrified to try a new bike.
WRG your experience is exactly why I'm terrified to try a new bike.
Which part of the lower shock should be rotating on this Rockshox deluxe? I’m assuming it’s the black sleeve inside the silver bushing. Right now the black sleeve is tight inside the lower eyelet and doesn’t move. When mounted, the frame pinches against this sleeve when the bolt is torqued to spec. The assembly then doesn’t want to freely rotate. What moves is the black sleeve around the through bolt. Friction is evident against the frame. Doesn’t seem ideal or correct. If the sleeve is pressed in by design, then it seem the two black pieces with inner o-rings are rather pointless since they are only keeping the bushing clean which doesn’t rotate anyway.
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Last edited by g_man80; 08-29-2020 at 08:12 PM.
As cornering knobs on the front tire get undercut, is it normal for the tire to feel more squirmy and unstable in corners? This is a High Roller 2, if it makes a difference.
Since the center knobs look great, I think I'll just move it to the rear and run it a little longer. A squirmy rear tire in cornering is controllable - on the front, it's unsettling.
HR knobs are known for ripping off. Some people like them. Ive always hated that tire especially on the front. I find those knobs squirm even when new. Theyll rip off even quicker on the rear. If youre running tubeless , id put new treads front and rear, fot the sake of the hassle.
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If youre running tubes and exo weight tires
Cheap good treads
https://www.commencalusa.com/Mobile/...ll-c2x26057229
They have more options in canada with exo+ equivalent snap and dh casing snap in 27.5 and 29. They even have 2.6 but theyre pretty light for 2.6
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Oh ok. Cant hurt to try those vee rubber snaps than. More of a dhf tread pattern . I think their 2.35 would be like a 2.45 dhf and same weight as exo. $25 seems pretty good unless tan wall isnt your thing. Oops sorry cancel that , theyre not tubeless
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Scheisse
This kit, oil and a shock pump all I need you reckon? Or are there special tools required?
https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...3599&category=
Last edited by klauss; 08-30-2020 at 08:02 PM.
I find the coating come off clog up the outer, end up giving you more ball ache than some cheaper non coated
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i dont kare i carnt spell or youse punktuation properlee, im on a skiing forum
Special tools are required.
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=683
Damn. First time I have actually seen that happen. Massive drop to flat with clydesdale pilot?
Anyone have a good idea on how to stretch a Five Ten Freerider shoe in the toe box? For some reason my left toe is cramped (this only started recently, pretty weird...) and it's causing my foot to go numb on longer rides. Just like a ski boot that needs to be punched. I was thinking about hitting it with a blow dryer and then using something like a wooden dowel or some sort of tool to punch it.
www.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
www.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
Ask a ski bootfitter, they have the right stuff.
Thanks, all - I think I do have a shoe stretcher laying around so i'll try that first. No custom foot beds in my bike shoes, my feet have been very low maintenance historically. I have custom footbeds in my ski boots but they aren't critical for me like they are for many people.
I am in clydesdale class. It wasn't some catastrophic failure, but it started two rides ago and as can be seen, leaks enough through the shaft that I need to fix it. Ordered seal kit and the special fox 10wt red. found a step by step vid online which means I'm probably going to end up gluing it on upside down like the kids in goonies.
Anyone randomly have a wide (35mm internal would be idea) carbon boost enduro capable 29er wheelset they want to unload?
Are there rumors of SRAM offering road shifters to match eagle derailleurs (or at least a derailleur that can handle a > 42 cog)? Or is shimano doing anything comparable? I like their road shifters better than the SRAM double tap stuff. Specifically excluding the electronic stuff, AXS / Di2. SRAM offers the Force/Rival/Apex 1 left shifter with a dropper post lever so it seems not impossible? I would love to run a 1x drop bar setup with a ~46-51 cog in the back.
I miss dropbars and I ride ~30% on the road now and for the foreseeable future going to/from trails... and I basically ride mellower stuff anyway and will be with a new kid at home, I don't think I need the 780mm flat bar I have right now. When I replace my current bike, which might be sooner than I thought, I am either gonna put drops on it or else replace it with a bike with drops, so looking at options. (The reach on my bike is pretty short so a 30mm stem would put the reach and stack in line with something like a Fargo which is designed for drops; seems not totally insane to just switch it?) But I'd also like an easier granny gear... I'm at a 32T chainring with 11-42 cassette. Supposedly the SRAM Force/Rival/Apex derailleurs will handle a 46T but it'd be nice to have something "officially" supported and also as aforementioned I greatly prefer the shimano road shifters. I think shimano GRX also has a left shifter with dropper post actuation...?
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