Ask the experts

[Iowagriz]

Buy chain for $25-40, buy chain tool for $15 (get the right one for your 11speed).

Take off old chain, use it to measure same amount of links to the new chain. Don't miscount due to the quick link (measure twice, break once). Use quick link to install, save excess chain for trail fixes.

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[XXX-er]

IME a good way to do it is I have bang a finishing nail into the shed wall from which i hang both chains

the old chain will be worn enough to be 1/2 to 3/4 of a link longer than the same number of new links so the new chain will be slightly shorter than the old one,

I changed an 11 spd shimano chain today and man those Shimano quick links are stiff to click shut, I have done a lot of SRAM quick links which weren't too stiff but I couldnt do the shimano chain without pliers !

[rideit]

You can always just go for a spin...

[mall walker]

Buy chain for $25-40, buy chain tool for $15 (get the right one for your 11speed).

Take off old chain, use it to measure same amount of links to the new chain. Don't miscount due to the quick link (measure twice, break once). Use quick link to install, save excess chain for trail fixes.

ehhh ok. so finding the tool is hard. is there a sheldon brown page on this or something?

[skizix]

ehhh ok. so finding the tool is hard. is there a sheldon brown page on this or something?

Finding the right tool is not hard. Go on the Park Tool site and figure out the right one (not rocket surgery). Then get it from amazon or any decent bike shop site.

Then either always ride with that, or have one on your multi tool (my Lezyne multi has a chain tool - little clumsy vs the shop version but it works). I recently fixed a buddy’s busted chain on the trail, saving him a 12 mile walk out - there is no hack, other than a chain tool, for a broken chain

[skizix]

the old chain will be worn enough to be 1/2 to 3/4 of a link longer than the same number of new links so the new chain will be slightly shorter than the old one,

Dang, if your old chain is 3/4 of a link longer than the new one...chances are you will need a new chainring(s) and/or cassette.

But whatevs...if you are wondering, just do some steep tech climbs. If you need new shit, you will know right away

[XXX-er]

.75 is pretty early to be swapping a chain and IME I can replace more than one chain on of a set of cogs and this is only the first

so I think there is still lots of life left in this drive train

[Iowagriz]

ehhh ok. so finding the tool is hard. is there a sheldon brown page on this or something?

This is the one that I have: https://www.rei.com/product/544208/p...act-chain-tool It doesn't say on the page, but believe this works for 10 and 11spd, not sure if it would work on 12.

This is the master link tool: https://www.rei.com/product/142295/p...er-link-pliers Good price, I just use regular pliers, but I should buy it and save myself the frustration.

[Andeh]

If you're not cutting new chains often, there's no harm in using the chainbreaker on your multi-tool to do it. Yeah it's a bit more difficult, but you should already have it. If you don't, maybe just get a multitool with a chainbreaker on it instead of the shop tool.

[whyturn]

Got a new bike with 1x12 NX Eagle 10-50 or even 2021 10-52. Was riding a new trail last night that I don’t usually take. Steep fire road followed by steeper single track. Wanted some variety but the smoke form the fires was not good and had issues.

The normal trails I ride are less steep up and more cross country. I am not really a fan of full on downhill and like trails that are more flow and pedal for exercise

On the new bike I have been able to work into climbing my normal fire road without stopping. This is really nice as I get more runs in and more exercise.

Question regards going to GX Eagle 10-50. It’s 300 g lighter and would be $400 plus install. Am I over thinking this like I do with skis trying to get 2% better performance?

It seems like an upgrade. What am I giving up? What am I gaining? Wait until winter when bike is down anyways?

My buddy climbed most of it on his older 26 but still walked some of it. The down was fun but almost to many switchback berms anyways. Wanted some variety and I got that but wonder if I’m just trying to get something I may not need.

Current bike specs





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[El Chupacabra]

NX to GX is an improvement, but I think most of the weight savings is in the cassette, and to change that requires you to change from a Shimano HG type freehub body (used by NX) to a SRAM XD type driver (used by GX). If your hub offers a different driver that you can buy separately, then you can swap it - but if not, you'd have to change the hub or entire wheel. Gets pricey fast.

You could change to a GX shifter and derailleur, which should get you most of the way there in noticeable shift feel.

[nickwm21]

Got a new bike with 1x12 NX Eagle 10-50 or even 2021 10-52. Was riding a new trail last night that I don’t usually take. Steep fire road followed by steeper single track. Wanted some variety but the smoke form the fires was not good and had issues.

The normal trails I ride are less steep up and more cross country. I am not really a fan of full on downhill and like trails that are more flow and pedal for exercise

On the new bike I have been able to work into climbing my normal fire road without stopping. This is really nice as I get more runs in and more exercise.

Question regards going to GX Eagle 10-50. It’s 300 g lighter and would be $400 plus install. Am I over thinking this like I do with skis trying to get 2% better performance?

It seems like an upgrade. What am I giving up? What am I gaining? Wait until winter when bike is down anyways?

My buddy climbed most of it on his older 26 but still walked some of it. The down was fun but almost to many switchback berms anyways. Wanted some variety and I got that but wonder if I’m just trying to get something I may not need.

Current bike specs





Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

As you go up in the drivetrain levels you get better material; more CNC’d parts vs stamped, higher grades of AL, bearings vs bushings, etc... So function remains the same, things just get lighter, smoother.

The only real difference you would notice other than weight would be in the shifter. High end shifters feel tighter, crisper, etc.

Biggest weight savings is in the cassette and cranks, which are also the most expensive....

Generally, for me, drivetrains are a wear item that when I replace I upgrade to the next level up.

IMHO: Bang for buck drivetrain builds would be GX RD, cranks, ring, chain; XO cassette and shifter. Or better yet SLX RD, cranks, ring, chain and XT cassette and shifter.


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[plugboots]

whyturn:

OK, mostly x-country rider here...
I would lighten up your rotational mass.
Get lighter tires.

[rideit]

^^^^^^BLASPHEMY^^^^^

[plugboots]

I know, I know...that’s why I had to put x-cross country rider in there.
I want to support my local shop...so I blew out a tire went to buy one ended up with a 950 g tire. Hated it. Just ordered some 550 g Racing Ralph’s

[ASmileyFace]

As you go up in the drivetrain levels you get better material; more CNC’d parts vs stamped, higher grades of AL, bearings vs bushings, etc... So function remains the same, things just get lighter, smoother.

The only real difference you would notice other than weight would be in the shifter. High end shifters feel tighter, crisper, etc.

Biggest weight savings is in the cassette and cranks, which are also the most expensive....

Generally, for me, drivetrains are a wear item that when I replace I upgrade to the next level up.

IMHO: Bang for buck drivetrain builds would be GX RD, cranks, ring, chain; XO cassette and shifter. Or better yet SLX RD, cranks, ring, chain and XT cassette and shifter.


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I wish more builds would come with a mix of GX and XO parts. Almost all stock builds are either SX/NX or XO1/XX1 everything.

[rideit]

The problem with light tires is the increased likelihood of smashing your face.

[El Chupacabra]

This gives the weight differences:

https://bikerumor.com/2018/06/23/com...nx-gx-x01-xx1/

[XXX-er]

This is the one that I have: https://www.rei.com/product/544208/p...act-chain-tool It doesn't say on the page, but believe this works for 10 and 11spd, not sure if it would work on 12.

This is the master link tool: https://www.rei.com/product/142295/p...er-link-pliers Good price, I just use regular pliers, but I should buy it and save myself the frustration.

I have had that compact park chainbreaker for years its a good one, its small enough to carry in a pack but now I leave it in the shop and carry a breaker on a multi tool

I don't have the specific pliers for the quick link so I just take the chain off the front sprockets and hold the chain folded togetehr in one hand with the quick link sticking up so I can squeeze the edges of the quick link diagonally with any plier to get the quiklink shut, squeezing diagonaly on the other edges would open it

[dcpnz]

6 bolt or centerlock??

Is one clearly superior? Should I care? Why would I want one over the other?

[HAB]

6 bolt or centerlock??

Is one clearly superior? Should I care? Why would I want one over the other?

Centerlock is a moderately good idea that is a pain in the ass because it didn't really catch on fully and is much less common. It also has the downside of requiring a tool that nobody carries in their pack, so if your rotor comes loose on the trail, you're kinda fucked.

[rideit]

I have tightened a centerlock rotor on the trail with a multi-tool screwdriver before...

[toast2266]

6 bolt or centerlock??

Is one clearly superior? Should I care? Why would I want one over the other?

Centerlock: Costs more. Trailside fixes are janky. Isn't compatible with 90% of the hubs out there. Rarer, and thus less likely to be in stock at shops. Weighs about the same. Doesn't actually solve any problems.

What's not to love?

[El Chupacabra]

The only advantage I can think of for centerlock is if you travel with the bike - easily removable discs would be nice for packing and preventing the rotors from bending.

[rideit]

Ok, I have one, have any of you experienced any real negative effects from using metallic (non resin) pads on a ‘resin pad only’ disc rotor?
I haven’t experimented, I don’t know.
Just curious.
I can’t really see how the steel would react differently?