Use a crescent. Old skool.
Use a crescent. Old skool.
If you have a Harbor freight go buy a set of brake line wrenches, most likely standard. Save yourself the aggravation and save your kids from witnessing dad having a meltdown.
I PB Blasted the 12mm shock nuts on my Jeep. Once a day for a week. None broke.
A few people feel the rain. Most people just get wet.
If you're replacing the whole line then cut the old line close to the fitting and stick an impact socket/wrench on it and zap it off. I've utilized this method before when I couldn't get a frozen line off my old truck.
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+1 for vice grips and a good ol jolt to the nut. its steel not brass or copper
I like to clamp vice grips onto the outside of the flare wrench for tricky ones.
A flare wrench is a must. Before you round it off, cutting the line to get a 6 point socket on it would be next, then if all else fails, vise grips.
My father only owned 2 tools: a hammer, and a sawzall, both of which I'd imagine him using to attempt to solve this problem.
I'm so glad I learned the appreciation of wrenching from other more eloquent sources.
So here's what your nut looks like after a half hour of vice gripping! (Rear axle on Tuesday on the 02 Dakota). I left it in temporarily to keep the schmutz out of the line..
Fortunately the front end of the line spun out it junction just fine (after I took of the freakin inner fender so I could get a flare wrench on the whore)
Damn, we're in a tight spot!
Seriously. The hours wrenching to anticipated mileage ratio on this Bitch is a testament to my pig headedness. Rust wise I've already replaced the wheel arches but I'm convinced the only thing keeping the cab on the frame is gravity. The list of mechanical fixes is too long and depressing. But I'm determined to get the odo to 150k and it's at 146.5 k now.
Your right abouthe flex line is dodgy but the next junction looked like a shit show too so it was a question of choosing my poison.
Right now I'm trying to work the line loose from behind the gas tank. Plan B is cut it and leave it and secure the new line well on either side of the tank. Although it's almost cocktail time here on the left coast.
Damn, we're in a tight spot!
"Here's to the crane
That flew down the lane,
Then alighted upon my good ship's mast.
He extended his neck,
And shit about a peck,
Then slowly closed his arse."
These are lefty loosely but it's easy to get turned around when you're upside down an bass akwards underneath the vehicle. I didn't have any luck with the socket but that might have been because of a lack of leverage. If you can get a wrench on it with s long handle or bar you might be able to "convince" it.
Damn, we're in a tight spot!
Try to get a rag then wire brush in there to get all the crap off the threads so that the penetrant can get to them easier? Also, most penetrant is corrosive to plastic/rubber/etc, so a good idea to wipe those down if you do spray them (or protect with rags, etc). Maybe not a big deal in the grand scheme of things here, but... yeah... that's all I have to add.
"...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."
Did the rotors, calipers, pads and suspension on all 4 wheels on the 06 Sierra 3500 this summer. Then found out I needed a new inner tie rod, pitman arm and idler arm. End of the day I installed it all myself (did all new tie rods while I was in there) but wound up getting a new steering gear box put in by the local while I had everything out and couldn't get the damn steering gear box back in after I had to take it out to get the pitman arm off.
I do believe these were due to be replaced.
I do believe there was a little gunk in the inner tie rod boot - it's supposed to be able to move back and forth an inch, right? :|
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"...if you're not doing a double flip cork something, skiing spines in Haines, or doing double flip cork somethings off spines in Haines, you're pretty much just gaping."
Et
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Not looking good
The plugs have not been touched since I bought the truck 3 years ago (less than 15k miles driven in that time). The insulator tip and the electrode are missing. There’s no thread to put another plug in. But the top of the piston does not look damaged. Not sure about anything else in there.
Likely from a poorly tightened plug....
This is where I stop working on it. Next step is tow to mechanic. Then scope into the engine and hope he sees no damage.
Ford triton?
100-series land cruiser. Uzj
You may be able to get a telescopic magnet in there and wand around to see if there are any chunks....that shit's probably long gone though.
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