sinus drain is ON after attempting to surf at Hampton beach, NH for a few hours. It was fun...carry on
sinus drain is ON after attempting to surf at Hampton beach, NH for a few hours. It was fun...carry on
Rob "Stayalert" M
Vermont
Most of you talk way to much about knee to waist size surf. Have you ever thought about moving to somehere there is surf ?
we have plenty of surf^^^^^^
I love where I live to recreate for many many reasons. beyond just surfing. so the answer is no. everything I could ever want/need is within a coupla hours from my home for year round fun. every time I travel, I look more forward to coming back home. a really nice feeling. today we had head high surf, clean and plenty of open space without having to share a peak. new board is like cheating
morning should be fun!
rog
Whats the good word fellas....
Been basically crippled for the past 10 days with a lower back injury, finally back on my feet and ready for fucking anything at this point. Shit, knee to waist high surf sounds fucking sublime right now. Looks like something headed our way next week, maybe even showing by Tuesday night. Could be fun with the three swells overlapping, S (185-170) WNW-NW (290-300+) NW (295-310+) if the god damn wind cooperates.
whats a beater by the way![]()
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
beater? ask hugh.he tole me you could pm him.
rog
So any way.
I surfed some knee to waist high surf today. Not actually sure if it was even that big. Parents are in town, and took the boy for most of the day. As much as I love moving dirt around my yard in hopes of building enough terraces before the rain comes I took the opportunity to get in the water even though it is the smallest it has been since late August. So. Anyway. It was like knee to waist high. But Hawaiian, So that makes it a bit gnarlier. I took out the Rick, which is a beast of a board. That thing catches everything. The old board is like cheating. Had the peak to myself. Hell, only one other out on the entire point and she was on the inside bowl. Anyway. Did I mention it was knee to waist high and shit. Glassy, but winds were blowing across the top of the point. Have you every seen Big Wednesday. They take about those winds. It was a cold wind. Anyway. I was out in this knee to waist high surf. Barely could call it surf really. Well, I can't. I'm too rad. But fuck it. I was out there rulin that shit an then like three folks paddled out on there whipper snapper sub six foot boards. It was funny to watch them hop and shit. I got a nose ride. And something like a tube on the inside. And like wave after wave after wave. And it was like knee to waist high. Fuck that boat was heavy on the walk back to the car. I need to get me a caddy.
How was that? Too much?
like!
it's early, dark, cold, and KNEE TO WAIST HIGH. coffee's brewing so that I can get my gal outta bed to go shred the KNEE TO WAIST HIGH. gnar.
rog
Wait a second.
You signed up for TGR just so you post about how much cooler you are than others who surf small crappy surf and then like to talk about it on the interwebz?
Seriously?
If you don't like it, why bother filling out a form to sign up? Maybe, another option, is to just not bother.
I think someone posts too much where no post is needed. Pretty sure the kooks here know they talk too much about what ever. They just don't give a fuck.
About to head out the door to go grab some knee high peelers mother fuckers. Yeehaw! If you are lucky, I'll post some pics and talk more about it later. Or I can talk about the dirt in my yard, which is another very interesting topic. It is brown, and very dirt like in nature.
fucking epic ass morning south coast maine!
the full moon that kept me company last night was still shining this am while i paddled out. then the sun came up opposed to the moon with a gorgeous red/orange sky. no one out cept for me and my better half. light offshores. do ya really think i was bummed out at the knee/thigh high peelers coming in? nope. coulda been dead flat for all i cared.
with a bit of patience some fun lil ripper zippers were had. the new 5'8 proved that i prolly won't be borrowing her board much anymore for the tiny days. love that
the next week looks great for other activities. oh darn......
rog
Holy shit. I just surfed crap so small it felt like was in Maine. The air even had a little crisp to it. Some how I still managed to enjoy myself. Oh well I'll learn some day.
Swell for next week, while still in likely the "best yet this season" class, is a bit less impressive. Head high plus is still a lot better than it was today
Surf more tiny surf yesterday. Had to force myself into my suit, cause I needed a run and a stretch. Goofed around in some punchy shore pound. After twenty minutes I was about to call it as not worth it. Then I got two super crouched, super tight, mini barrels. Meh. Still fun enough, but then I headed home to lay some stone.
Anyway. Monterey buoy is showing a 24 second period right now. I think there may be some juice out there this afternoon.
no surf for me since last week. flat here too, but might take the LB out tonight just becuase.
Looks like swell building in for a nice day Wednesday for my bday surf. Only gonna be 2-3+ though, so I won't post about it, even if I catch one of the set waves that are shoulder high.
Why even bother getting off the couch. Has it not been pointed out to you by a fucking JONG that your life ain't worth talking about. Just stay home and watch videos of other people living the "dream". Geez. I mean the fact that you ever where a wetsuit makes you a beater.
Anyway, Hugh, in his grumpy old man style made a point. In gonna at least try to flip the shutter this week. Won't be all that big in town but enough to get some good surfing in.
Anyway, I think mister salmon is actually a rog hater who can't hate in public. But that make no sense as hatin on rog is as popular as hating on hugh, who both hate on each other. Maybe they are all the same guy. And maybe he has so much hate he ha to be other guys to hate on. Truth be told I never saw rog in person this summer.
I don’t know dude....
Hugh is the man for sure but no one brings on the butthurtz like Rog
And I will most certainly be talking of chest high epicness and posting shitty pics from this upcoming swell![]()
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
When did I ever say I hated Hugh? We came close ott. Phone this year, in person nextrog
I mostly talk out of my ass online, so it is best to ignore what i post. I usually do. Swell filled nicely up here. I expect something fun is gonna filter through the islands and to you gents down south. And if the winds cooperate, I'd expect Supu to score some dredgers in the city and post up about what a bunch of wanker bitches we all are bothering with meager pickings most days. He's right you know. Anyway, better tonight than it was yesterday. Got some fun ones. Will see if the youngen allows me to get some shots tomorrow. Should be a good week.
Hope the swell gets you guys good down there. Seems to have kinda missed my neck of the woods. Everyone and their friends out expecting everywhere to be breaking and only one spot breaking really well. Made for some crowded knee high waves and slalom practice as I weaved through people on my 9'2". Haven't had a chance to fix the small board after leash snapage and rock pummelage.
In all seriousness some very fun long period rides in between the lulls and crowds. No pics. Soon hopefully as the spots that don't require a long walk fill in so I can bring the camera.
How high quality is the board. I it is an older beater type you can also shove in a pick of SunCure craps to plug up the wholes and then grind that out latter when you do a real repair.
Did it really miss ya that much or are ya just tryin to impress the big fish man from ak?
Fuck, last night was knee to maybe waist high Alaskan around here. What was nice is that I actually got in a number of very healthy top turns.
Despite my son car jackin a one year olds car this morning I got a few shots off at the lane. Tide was a bit full, and I a bit busy with the wrangling, but nat was out there delivering.
Shoulder high by my standards. Some would call that head high. Some would call it chest.
Knee high alaskan is what I was going for.
But really it did kinda miss us. Smaller looking swells have delivered a lot, lot better.
Watching world class surfers like Nat is a treat. Up here in the great white north I rarely get to do that.
In that case it was waist high plus tonight. I you got real lucky you could connect through the middle of te wave and surf through the entire point but usually that did not happen and you could sue either just the onside or just the I side and you wave would only go about 150 yards. Oh well. And no barrels, but just an open face with a fairly meaty lip.
So. It is for sure hitting here way better than there. Seems odd to me. Swells I thought would miss you seemed to hit you well. This one I thought would get in all over n America. Bet it has to do with earths curvature or something.
Fuck that felt good. Only wish I have four hours instead of just one.
Dawn patrol bitches
Headed to HB to track down some waist to chest high New Jersey, look for a short, stumpy cavemanesque looking kook getting pitched often.
Tales of epicness to follow....
"In a perfect world I'd have all 10 fingers on my left hand, so I could just use my right hand for punching."
lully dawn patrol in carlsbad. one NJ overhead wave that ran to the beach. Then I had to go to work.
Sunset session last night at El Porto. Mainly heavy closeouts but I'm still in whitewater anyway so I got some good reps in.
Only thing to note was when in darker waist-deep water, felt something "fishy" brush past my ankle. Probably the fastest I've paddled this year toward shore. Then came home to see two shark spotting videos at El Porto posted in the last week. Looks like I'll be sticking to Orange County for a while.
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