Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[El Chupacabra]

Car stereo fun time here: changing out the head unit in my truck from a single DIN to a double DIN, in order to get Android Auto, Bluetooth, BT phone hands free, and a backup camera. Truck came to me with a single DIN JVC, but with a nice PAC Audio interface that allows the aftermarket stereo to work with the steering wheel controls and the factory Bose amp and speakers, which actually sound decent.

I bought a Pioneer DMH2660NEX on a sale, and have wired it to the PAC adapter. Bought a $25 backup cam from Amazon (erapta" brand, had good reviews), that's a license plate bracket mount.

I also bought (not pictured) a dash mount plug from Amazon that I'll put in a dash blank, which will provide a USB outlet and a 1/8" aux jack. The USB and aux ports are on the rear of the stereo, and putting a plug in the dash will be a cleaner install rather than having some cables poking out randomly.

It's wired up and ready to install, but it's looking like rain outside so I'll probably put it off until tomorrow for running wires from the rear license plate area up to connect to the reverse lights at the taillight, and then all the way up to the dashboard.

And, it's all installed and it all works. That was kind of a PITA.

The backup cam is acceptably clear - I still need to aim it and decide whether to use the Pioneer generated lines or the cam lines. The Bluetooth mic seems OK, Android Auto connects promptly, and the Amazon extension plug I put into the dashboard fit really cleanly.

[motopsycha]

I took on the job of refinishing the rear subframe of my 128i. Some rust had set in and the paint was failing in several places. Basically the whole rear end was dropped out and disassembled. I had successfully removed the rusty exhaust nuts and couple of months ago while replacing the driveshaft support bearing so that was easy this time. I also was successful in disconnecting the brake lines with a little heat.
The only hiccup was a stripped stud on the lower end of a rear shock. I rethreaded it and got on my way.
Easily 2 days of thrashing but it feels good to get that taken care of.

I wish I could post pics


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[anotherVTskibum]

Lots of the OBS Ford guys swear by adding a B&M oil filter kit in line with the transmission cooler. They also add a temp gauge to watch the tranny temp when towing.
Some also add another cooler in line with the tranny and the existing tranny cooler.
Theory being that heat kills transmission, so keep the heat low.

He's talking about a modern van, not an antique.

I don't know for sure about the Transit, but the F-150 seems to do just fine with transmission temperature without additional hardware.

The first thing I'd want is actual data on fluid temperatures during operation; some of the F-150 dashes can display actual water and transmission fluid temps, so either enabling that (if possible) or using an OBD-2 dongle and some form of data logging (maybe Torque unless you've got a computer and want to go with ForSCAN).

Do you end up spending a lot of time idling, short drives, slow USFS roads or mostly highway? Does the Transit have a variable oil change interval based on usage (if you're willing to trust the computer algorithm)? I'd be inclined to target a percentage on the indicator if it has one rather than a mileage, because (again, at least on my F-150) it does vary quite a bit depending on use. Just change at a higher percentage if you don't trust the factory rec. I'm guessing that the factory schedule isn't particularly bad or all the fleet customers would've noticed by now, but that's just a guess.

Also, there must be Transit forums out there; have you found any?

[Touring_Sedan]

Lots of the OBS Ford guys swear by adding a B&M oil filter kit in line with the transmission cooler. They also add a temp gauge to watch the tranny temp when towing.
Some also add another cooler in line with the tranny and the existing tranny cooler.
Theory being that heat kills transmission, so keep the heat low.

That's just straight up old man shit. My dad was pissed when the new Telluride's towing package didn't come with an additional oil cooler. It's never going to tow a thing. I'm inclined to say we're well past those days.

Most OG HD vans were designed for longevity, we have a fleet E-350 with the V-10 that gets ridden hard and put up wet. It has close to 200k miles and is right at its weight limit of 9400lbs. The transmission still shifts perfectly and handles mountain passes without blinking, FWIW, it has a limiter at 91.

New commercial vehicles are designed to have big chunks of the drivetrain replaced, nothing gets serviced anymore, I doubt a new Ford tech has even seen the inside of a transmission. I say you do what you can, but don't get too anal about it. Go in with the idea that a chunk can be replaced, and budget for that.

[byates1]

Mag advice requested. Changing plugs today in 2022 ford t250. 8mm bolt that holds the coil pack(I think thats correct term) down. Bolt is stripped. Got loose. Then won't come out or screw back down. 4 of 6 were easy peasy.

How should I approach this bolt. Thanks in advance.

[byates1]

Ignition coil..

[Mazderati]

Try to get a slotted screwdriver or similar under the bolt head to apply outward pressure while turning the bolt.

[warthog]

That's just straight up old man shit. My dad was pissed when the new Telluride's towing package didn't come with an additional oil cooler. It's never going to tow a thing. I'm inclined to say we're well past those days.

Most OG HD vans were designed for longevity, we have a fleet E-350 with the V-10 that gets ridden hard and put up wet. It has close to 200k miles and is right at its weight limit of 9400lbs. The transmission still shifts perfectly and handles mountain passes without blinking, FWIW, it has a limiter at 91.

New commercial vehicles are designed to have big chunks of the drivetrain replaced, nothing gets serviced anymore, I doubt a new Ford tech has even seen the inside of a transmission. I say you do what you can, but don't get too anal about it. Go in with the idea that a chunk can be replaced, and budget for that.

Byates asked what I would do to keep it running forever. My answer- I would do old man shit to it.
If it has a trans temp gauge already, I would keep an eye on it every once in a bit on long trips.

The other advantage that at least the in line filter gets you is a visual inspect on what is going on in the tranny over time.
Takes 2 min to switch filters, cut it open, and see what is in there. Gives you an early alert on a potential big problem later.

[byates1]

Turns out the bolt threads into a steel threaded sleeve in the valve cover. Luckily the sleeve came out. Of course the dealership wants to replace the valve cover. I got a new sleeve screw combo and some high heat jb weld. Just a small amount of tension is all needed to keep the coil from bouncing off. New plugs the engine is purring super quiet.

Also did rear diff fluid the other day. Doing coolant soon. Will pay for the trans fluid to be fully exchanged w their tool that exchanges it while running to get it all.

Dealer has been solid to me here in MT but many things can be handled yourself. 180$ per hour for 2 hrs to change 6 plugs. Took me an hour a a snail's pace. Gouge attempt thwarted. They would have snapped the same bolt and tried to gouge me into a valve cover.

Sweet blog bro.

[warthog]

Recent paint adventure. Not really wrenching, but a fun art project.
Before:




During:






Wet Sanding:


Round 1 of wet sanding done:


Needs another round of wet sanding before it is close to perfect-ish.

[warthog]

Round 2- the hood.
This one was a lot easier from a bodywork standpoint. Just a couple rusty areas. Metal completely flat and perfect though.
Just a ton of sanding to get it down to original primer.
How it has looked for the last 4 years:


Sanding, sanding, sanding and wiping down with denatured alcohol-




Epoxy-


3 coats of high build 2k primer-


Blocking about 3/4 done-


Color down-




1st coat of 2k clear-



Finished product-




It looks great from about 2 feet away, which is pretty good for an amateur, I think.
It has a few runs and orange peel that can get sanded out. The worst part was that I ran out of time on Sunday and didn't want to risk a ton of bugs in the clear. Monday was windy and all sorts of shit was in the air. No bugs though- FML.
So along with all kinds of trash in the clear, I also went a little too close with the color and really laid down some metal flake in a streak in a few spots. No amount of wet sanding will fix that, but it looks a million times better for now. When the weather gets nice again (probably November), I will strip it back down to the color coat, lay down 1 or 2 coats of color again, and re clear it in better conditions. The larger piece really tested my weak skills.

[El Chupacabra]

Looks great. Is this the Bronco that's supposedly your kid's car? You've put an impressive amount of time and effort into it

[lifelinksplit]

X2. My second vehicle was a 1990 bronco, only an xlt but the Eddie bauers were nice. I am jealous of your patience for body and paint. Between this and your CJ you are winning. All I have is a beat up old bronco and a bunch of toyotas that run to various degrees..

Now buy your daughter a new vehicle and keep this..

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[The Reverend Floater]

That looks incredible, Warthog.

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[warthog]

Looks great. Is this the Bronco that's supposedly your kid's car? You've put an impressive amount of time and effort into it

Umm, that's what you do for your kids. She will be gone in 2 years and the youngest will drive it. Then it will be mine.
Thanks.

[warthog]

Now buy your daughter a new vehicle and keep this..

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That's the plan- she will be able to have a car at college in her 2nd year. 4 Runner or GX is the plan.
The Bronco still has to survive the youngest though.

[tuco]

Then you'll be ready for this
http://https://solomotorsports.com/s...ckage-stage-6/

[schindlerpiste]

Seeking advise. Lately, I have noticed a bad (metal rubbing) sound coming from underneath my truck. When I slid under the truck, I noticed that two of the exhaust bushings are ripped and the end of the exhaust is no longer attached to the posts.


This is causing the exhaust to rub up against another tube-like part. The problem is that the exhaust is heavy and pretty tight (stable). I have purchased new bushings. I'm not sure whether I maneuver the exhaust so as to connect the bushing to both the under carriage and the exhaust. Any ideas.

[Thesystemsplit]

that "other" tube is your driveline, and you def want to get the exhaust can up and off of that. looks like you just replace the rubber bushings/reinsert the metal hooks and your done.

[warthog]

Just jack it up into place- probably need a block or 2 to get it up close.
Those bushings just slide on. 5-10 min project tops.

[Obstruction]

Spray the bushings w/ WD40 to ease removal and assembly.

[byates1]

Let the exhaust and the drive line cut holes in each other to see which one fails first, report back.

[fatnslow]

Let the exhaust and the drive line cut holes in each other to see which one fails first, report back.

I would luv the trip report for this but I think the op is an actual adult with a pimp rig. 23 year old me would have ignored until something actually failed leading to a repair I couldn't afford to fix.

[unitofstuff]

Money shifted my E36 a few weeks ago, and I'm surprised how little I care. Not exactly a "wrenching adventure" since I'll just drag it down to some friends in LA who can throw in a 2.8 quicker (and probably not too far from cheaper) than I could refuckulate a head for the original M50. Just feels weird that something like a bent valve would have me so worked up and twisted just a few years ago, but these days it's very "whatever."

I'm actually much more frustrated by SL county's decision to shut down most of the "sniffer" emissions stations. Guy who has been doing my emissions for years told me they were going from ~1800 emissions stations who could do tailpipe emissions to ~50 in SL county, and that does not include him. He also said that in ~2.5 years, SL county would stop doing sniffers entirely. I have no idea what that means for those of us who have vehicles that don't qualify for vintage plates+collector's insurance for emissions exemption, or vehicles old enough for vintage plates but don't qualify for collector's insurance. Based on the move to require most vintage-eligible vehicles to have collector's insurance to be emissions-exempt, I don't think the county is angling toward being more lenient. Feels a lot like 80s/90s cars are being bureaucratically pushed out with no legal recourse.

[east or bust]

Our 98 Tahoe started hemorrhaging coolant yesterday. Luckily I’ve pinpointed the leak to the heater bypass valve area but can’t tell if it’s a hose or the valve itself.

Anyone know if those valves were a common point of failure? It’s a cheap part so probably replace it anyway, just wondering.


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