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Thread: Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

  1. #5876
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan View Post
    Crutchfield is kinda like REI. You either pay out the nose and get your new kicks from the store and pay an extra 30% or you try them on in the store and buy them cheaper elsewhere.

    Route 1. Crutchfield will lay out everything you need, add it to the cart and just check out.

    Route 2. Crutchfield will lay out everything you need. Copy and paste the part numbers into the Googles and pick them up elsewhere.

    I like eBay for head units. You can typically get last years model or a refurbished form about half the price.

    I like Amazon for the small bits that are mass produced. Wiring harnesses, trim finishers, etc.

    I'll just do a general search for anything I'm missing, like the steering wheel control or amp adapter.

    As for the install process, I guarantee there's a Tundra Gravity Research site where someone has already done this and documented it thoroughly.

    The 12 Volt also has comprehensive wiring information and pinouts.

    https://www.the12volt.com/installbay...asp?tid=115202
    You're not wrong - and that's the route I usually take as well. But if you have never installed a car stereo yourself, I think Crutchfield provides the most help and best instructions, and that has a value.

    Buzz, you'll also need basic electrical tools - wire cutter, stripper, and small wire gauge butt connectors (18-20 GA). Or solder and heat shrink, if that's your preference. Do not just twist wires together and tape them, and do not use wire nuts intended for household solid core wire.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  2. #5877
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    Guys. I get it. I'm not anti Crutchfield. I'm just throwing out my own method.

    Also, Buzz, I have all the tools. You're welcome to borrow them.

  3. #5878
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Buzz, you'll also need basic electrical tools - wire cutter, stripper, and small wire gauge butt connectors (18-20 GA). Or solder and heat shrink, if that's your preference. Do not just twist wires together and tape them, and do not use wire nuts intended for household solid core wire.
    Is all that really still the case if you get one of those slick premade wiring harnesses? Was perusing Crutchfield and their kits seem pretty plug-and-play. Looks REALLY easy on the Tundra.

  4. #5879
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    Quote Originally Posted by MontuckyFried View Post
    Is all that really still the case if you get one of those slick premade wiring harnesses? Was perusing Crutchfield and their kits seem pretty plug-and-play. Looks REALLY easy on the Tundra.
    This, always this. Premade harnesses will make it a much easier diy process. Chances are if you have to ask here for advice splicing factory wires might cause some hiccups.

  5. #5880
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatnslow View Post
    This, always this. Premade harnesses will make it a much easier diy process. Chances are if you have to ask here for advice splicing factory wires might cause some hiccups.
    Never splice factory wires, unless you bought a used truck and the prior owner butchered it.

    There will always be an aftermarket harness that plugs right into the factory plug(s). If you aren't adapting steering wheel controls, this will be cheap - like $10-15. If you need an interface that adapts steering wheel controls it'll be more expensive, like $75-150.

    The aftermarket stereo will come with its own harness. You'll need to splice that harness into the aftermarket one that plugs into your vehicle. Or you can buy the pre-made one from Crutchfield, but honestly, this is a very easy job - wire it together on the bench, then just go plug it in.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #5881
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    Another vote for Crutchfield. ALso makes it way easier to replace your radio if the new one dies, or to put the factory one back in when you sell the rig. Don't butcher factory wiring. I've got a rat's nest of splices in my van from a professionally installed security system that I'm just waiting to go haywire someday.

  7. #5882
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan View Post
    Guys. I get it. I'm not anti Crutchfield. I'm just throwing out my own method.

    Also, Buzz, I have all the tools. You're welcome to borrow them.
    I appreciate the other perspective. And the offering of needed tools and I’ll take you up on that. I’ve got to put a little money away to get this moving but I do spend over an hour a day commuting. This is a small investment for future comfort and enjoyment on the road.

    Easier with all the gizmos ready to go sounds like a better plan than making it more difficult for a few less bucks.

  8. #5883
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    Car stereo fun time here: changing out the head unit in my truck from a single DIN to a double DIN, in order to get Android Auto, Bluetooth, BT phone hands free, and a backup camera. Truck came to me with a single DIN JVC, but with a nice PAC Audio interface that allows the aftermarket stereo to work with the steering wheel controls and the factory Bose amp and speakers, which actually sound decent.

    I bought a Pioneer DMH2660NEX on a sale, and have wired it to the PAC adapter. Bought a $25 backup cam from Amazon (erapta" brand, had good reviews), that's a license plate bracket mount.

    I also bought (not pictured) a dash mount plug from Amazon that I'll put in a dash blank, which will provide a USB outlet and a 1/8" aux jack. The USB and aux ports are on the rear of the stereo, and putting a plug in the dash will be a cleaner install rather than having some cables poking out randomly.

    It's wired up and ready to install, but it's looking like rain outside so I'll probably put it off until tomorrow for running wires from the rear license plate area up to connect to the reverse lights at the taillight, and then all the way up to the dashboard.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  9. #5884
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    Got a friend looking at this 4 Runner-
    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...2-e52868279f49

    Anyone know what the P0710 code for the tranny might mean?
    He knows the guy's girlfriend, so he feels confident that he will be played pretty straight.
    He is also FBI, so I am assuming no shenanigans, since he can pretty much fuck your world if you fuck his.

  10. #5885
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    Car stereo fun time here: changing out the head unit in my truck from a single DIN to a double DIN, in order to get Android Auto, Bluetooth, BT phone hands free, and a backup camera. Truck came to me with a single DIN JVC, but with a nice PAC Audio interface that allows the aftermarket stereo to work with the steering wheel controls and the factory Bose amp and speakers, which actually sound decent.

    I bought a Pioneer DMH2660NEX on a sale, and have wired it to the PAC adapter. Bought a $25 backup cam from Amazon (erapta" brand, had good reviews), that's a license plate bracket mount.

    I also bought (not pictured) a dash mount plug from Amazon that I'll put in a dash blank, which will provide a USB outlet and a 1/8" aux jack. The USB and aux ports are on the rear of the stereo, and putting a plug in the dash will be a cleaner install rather than having some cables poking out randomly.

    It's wired up and ready to install, but it's looking like rain outside so I'll probably put it off until tomorrow for running wires from the rear license plate area up to connect to the reverse lights at the taillight, and then all the way up to the dashboard.
    I have the Pioneer 7" screen that pops out, with the CD player. Kept it a single din space, because I didn't want to chop the Bronco dash. Pioneer makes some nice stuff. You'll be really happy with that unit.

  11. #5886
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    Quote Originally Posted by warthog View Post
    I have the Pioneer 7" screen that pops out, with the CD player. Kept it a single din space, because I didn't want to chop the Bronco dash. Pioneer makes some nice stuff. You'll be really happy with that unit.
    What's a "CD player?"

  12. #5887
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    2003 4R got a new rear wiper motor to replace the broken stub. Did the dremel mod so the wiper actually works. 100 percent of old 4R's have this failure.

    Fixed the little LED lights on the temp/mileage/climate control display. Easy easy with 5 minute youtube tutorial.

    New 265/70 Michelin Defender LTX M/S2 and new 17 inch wheels from Toyota to replace the super corroded sometimes leaky oem wheels and way past their expiration date weather checked LTX's . Mall crawler status renewed.

    Probably need to get the black lug nuts, but meh... they will look better once they get some dirt on tbem.

    Last edited by uglymoney; 04-27-2024 at 07:30 PM.

  13. #5888
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    In theory, if you switch climate control to recirculate, it closes that path for mice?

  14. #5889
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    This stereo/nav project has been officially put on hold from the wife. A new hybrid king mattress took precedence and just arrived today. In hindsight this is actually a good thing because I have expensive taste and did not want to settle for a smaller screened unit. If I did this now I would be settling but ima gonna save some more and do it right.

  15. #5890
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    Quote Originally Posted by Touring_Sedan View Post
    What's a "CD player?"
    It's what ugly money needs to upgrade to.

    Ugly, that 4Runner will easily fit a double DIN head unit. Get rid of the stock stereo - any aftermarket one will be a big improvement in sound, even with the stock speakers. When I had a 2008 4Runner, I put a Pioneer GPS head unit in and sound was much much better - and I didn't change any speakers.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  16. #5891
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    Totally needs it. On the list. Double din with Bluetooth Android auto.

    The 2003 Sport was the TRD of that time so the stereo was fancy and sounds great already, has an external amp and, gasp, a cd player lol.

    Problem is, takes a while to get to the top of the list. These tires are about 3 years overdue, couldn't really put it off any longer.

    I need to replace the lower control arms and probably uppers next. They are 21 years old and original.

    Mostly it is a garage queen, our daily drivers have working audio interfaces.

    But yes!

    Sent from my SM-S911U using Tapatalk

  17. #5892
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    Mine was a base SR5 version, no fancy amp - - at the time I think a JBL labeled system was the upgrade, and it did sound better.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  18. #5893
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    My 2001 Sequoia LTD got upgraded to a Sony XAV-AX3200 w/ a rear camera. I immediately blew the (23 yo) JBL speakers. But it sounded great up to that point! haha

    In my other 2009 Tundra w/ CD player, I just use the Aux port w/ a bluetooth gadget but it kinda sucks. Probably have to upgrade that one soon.

  19. #5894
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    Put this out there in the ski rv thread but here is better.

    If you had a 2022 ford transit van, new, and you wanted to go 500k w it, what would you do at what milage?

    So far I'm doing:

    Oil 3-5k
    Trans fluid 40k
    Diff 80
    Transfer case 120

    Was thinking plugs and coolent every 80

    Id like to do what I can to keep it nice. I live in it full time so.

    Thx!

  20. #5895
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    Quote Originally Posted by byates1 View Post
    Put this out there in the ski rv thread but here is better.

    If you had a 2022 ford transit van, new, and you wanted to go 500k w it, what would you do at what milage?

    So far I'm doing:

    Oil 3-5k
    Trans fluid 40k
    Diff 80
    Transfer case 120

    Was thinking plugs and coolent every 80

    Id like to do what I can to keep it nice. I live in it full time so.

    Thx!
    Replace transmission: 145K
    Replace engine: 225K
    Replace transmission: 290K
    Replace engine: 450K


  21. #5896
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    Quote Originally Posted by byates1 View Post
    Put this out there in the ski rv thread but here is better.

    If you had a 2022 ford transit van, new, and you wanted to go 500k w it, what would you do at what milage?

    So far I'm doing:

    Oil 3-5k
    Trans fluid 40k
    Diff 80
    Transfer case 120

    Was thinking plugs and coolent every 80

    Id like to do what I can to keep it nice. I live in it full time so.

    Thx!
    First, I would change my expectations and trade it in at 100k. But if you wanna shoot for the moon, I would just look up the recommended service intervals.

  22. #5897
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    The service intervals are nah. I'm being more proactive on hopes of being better to it. But I hear you

  23. #5898
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    Quote Originally Posted by skaredshtles View Post
    Replace transmission: 145K
    Replace engine: 225K
    Replace transmission: 290K
    Replace engine: 450K

    Pretty sure it'll do a lot better than that but thx for the well wishes

  24. #5899
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    Quote Originally Posted by byates1 View Post
    Pretty sure it'll do a lot better than that but thx for the well wishes
    Hope springs eternal.


  25. #5900
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    Quote Originally Posted by byates1 View Post
    Put this out there in the ski rv thread but here is better.

    If you had a 2022 ford transit van, new, and you wanted to go 500k w it, what would you do at what milage?

    So far I'm doing:

    Oil 3-5k
    Trans fluid 40k
    Diff 80
    Transfer case 120

    Was thinking plugs and coolent every 80

    Id like to do what I can to keep it nice. I live in it full time so.

    Thx!
    Lots of the OBS Ford guys swear by adding a B&M oil filter kit in line with the transmission cooler. They also add a temp gauge to watch the tranny temp when towing.
    Some also add another cooler in line with the tranny and the existing tranny cooler.
    Theory being that heat kills transmission, so keep the heat low.

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