Any of you Hayes guys experience a leaky Dominion lever? I have a basically brand new lever that is leaking at the bladder cap. Any pressure at all in the system and DOT oozes out. Tightening the bolts did not help.
Web search just comes up with a few of these experiences and answers like “Their customer service is great, just get it warrantied”….shades of 00s SRAM.
So I took them off and installed my old Codes.
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I kinda feel like everything under the hayes umbrella comes with slightly questionable quality control. Great products when they work, and their support seems pretty good. But lots of stories of things being not quite perfect out of the box with Hayes and Manitou products.
Not leaking from the bleed bolt, but the at the whole bladder cap, held on by 2 bolts that tightened but didn’t solve it.
I suppose I’ll open it up and see what it looks like, but I’m taking this bike to MX on Weds for Sarah Swallow’s Ruta del Jefe and don’t want to fuck around with it prior to that, so just swapped brakes.
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Probably a dumb question. My new frame is 203mm post mount. Can I run a 200mm rotor?
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Need a torque wrench for the bike, the only thing my craftsman is maybe good for are the cranks. Should I just get a Park Tool one or look for something better/mo quality?
Also need to be schooled on grease. Are they all more or less the same or are there actual quality differences? Park Tool, Muc Off, etc.
eta: FWIW I’ve been known to be a buy once cry once kinda guy.
Grease probably doesn’t really matter in practice, but Motorex Grease 2000/FETT 2000/Bike Grease 2000 would be a great all purpose grease. Calcium grease with mineral oil base. No special additives that aren’t needed, but calcium grease has good washout, corrosion, wear resistance.
But for things that call for specific grease, like cables, forks, deraileur clutches, I’d stick with the spec.
Do a CDI one instead of Park / Shimano. They come with a calibration cert in the box. You should be able to find them on Amazon. I've got the 2-8nm (TLA28NM) T-handle one, and a bigger metal one (2502MRMH) that's 4-28. My only complaints are that the rubber top of the T-handle slides around, and the primary scale on the bigger one is imperial.
then you gotta worry about if the bolt holes work out OR just buy the right disc and put the 200 in your parts bin
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
WRG: believe you're on a V2.2 Madonna. I run the 180 rear mount with a 20mm adapter. Contact Raaw. While you're at it, get the sealed main pivot ring thingies and a few hangers. The hanger design sucks and is easily bent. Doesn't matter the material, it's the shape. I'm buying the UDH kit when I stop thinking about snow.
OK so yeah its got a 203 bracket on there now, but it's not "post mount" integral to the frame as their specs would make it seem.
I've done this before and can't find the deets. Buried in this thread somewhere: Sramano AXS setup chain length? Differing opinions online between sram length guide and shimano length guide.
She's starting to come together. Next question is whether or not I will have to wait until fall to ride it.
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Nice, I missed out on the raw aluminum.
Since you're running AXS, you should get the 7series hanger. Just the weight of the AXS derailleur can bend the stock 6series hanger.
Shimano full suspension is 5 or 6 links, depending on first link being inner or outer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyC-zL1rNJU
Q on aluminum frame corrosion:
I picked up a free bike for Mrs C to use as a camping bike - a leave it locked up without concern type of bike. It's a Motobecane hybrid aluminum frame (label says built by Kinesis), and was left outside for some unknown period of time near the ocean - lots of rust on the cassette and derailleurs. Frame, carbon fork, and wheels look OK - except for maybe this - it looks like corrosion under the paint, near the braze ons and near the rear dropout. Would you have any concern riding this bike?
Again, intended use is light duty - pavement, low speed meandering, maybe a dirt road.![]()
I have bins of old and/or take off bike parts, plenty to bring this back to life. It has a 3x10 drivetrain with a road triple crank, flat bar mountain shifters and brakes. The brakes seem functional, and the shifters even click through their ranges cleanly.
Cassette and front derailleur are rusty trash, rear derailleur might be salvageable. Bottom bracket very rough, but looks like a square taper, and I have a handful of old Shimano cartridge ones still. Hubs are Shimano cup and cone, and I think the headset it loose ball too, so those should all be usable.
I didn't find any cracks on the fork or frame, and the rims/ spokes are in decent shape. Tires even have decent tread - WTB Nano, 700x40.
Having grown up riding beach cruisers at the shore......we have bikes that are more rust than actual metal and none of them have snapped in half.
We're also not pulling for huge triples off the dunes
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Thanks guys - I'll rebuild it.
Follow up question, as I root through my parts bin: I happen to have a new SRAM X7 front derailleur that is labeled 2x10. The old rusty derailleur is a X5, no marking as to 2X or 3X, but visually appears to be the same. Will the 2x10 derailleur work on a triple crank?![]()
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