I don't know why I'm so surprised you all build and tinker with your own wheels
I don't know why I'm so surprised you all build and tinker with your own wheels
www.dpsskis.com
www.point6.com
formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
Fukt: a very small amount of snow.
+..3? on wheel fanatyk fix.
Well maybe I'm the faggot America
I'm not a part of a redneck agenda
Dee are you using alloy nipples for carbon AM/Enduro wheels, or sticking with brass?
I’m light but not typically super easy on wheels and I’ve found that I can use alloy reliably on carbon rims since they stay round and keep even tension. Only issue of course is if the tape fails and the spoke bed gets contaminated with sealant. Had to relace the Reynolds wheels on my Firebird due to nipple rot. Gross.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
I typically use brass for the strength of the nipple material. The weight difference in DT Squorx is +/-25g per 32 spoke wheel.
Aluminum version: 32 nipples weigh 13.5g; 0.42g / nipple
Brass version: 32 nipples weigh 38.67g; 1.21g / nipple
I used Aluminum when I built a weight weeny set for my wife's bike, XTR hubs, WAO, DT Comp Race 2.0-1.6-2.0 spoke, and Squorx ALU. I find the nipples deform when the tension gets really high on the carbon rims, above 110kg/f.
Had an Ibis carbon wheel set that had completely rotted the aluminum nipples that I rebuilt last summer.
I had red aluminium ( faster eh ) nipples on a custom built bike i bought used and I didnt like dealing with them IMO spoke nipples are not the place to save weight
Shop bro was always hard o gear but had a set of carbon rims he swapped from one enduro-ish shop deal bike to the next and he said they never broke or needed any maintenance
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Because the majority of "bike" products are industry products that are just rebranded bike specific.
FIX is a basically Purple LOCTITE 222MS with PTFE intergraded.
Wheelsmith is basically a pipe dope, just thinned out a bit for easier application, and less mess.
If you want to pay the "bike tax" and pay a premium price for bike specific items, go a head.
I kinda thought the Squorx nipple washers would help the corrosion thing.
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However many are in a shit ton.
I don’t think it’s from the carbon, it’s from sealant leaching in there.
Certainly been wrong before though, and plenty.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
I don't send like the 25-year-olds, but my Reserves have been the best wheelset I've ever owned. Zero maintenance. One (of the many) things I suck at with bike maintenance would be truing a wheel. So much so that it's the only thing I don't even attempt to do myself anymore.
Right on. Is it any good?
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
I just started getting alright at it within the last year or so (after a few years of learning), usually have on my more experienced mechanics take care of wheels for serious riders just in case. It's so simple but such an artform at the same time haha
I do like carbon wheels for that reason though, not many go out of true very easily.
Wheel building related.
This is the minutia that keeps me up at night:
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C5ASF...dzZmFrMWdjcWNv
They build the wheel <0.2mm> off-center?
JFC.
You could probably just, like, do final tensioning and truing and check dish with a tire installed?
IME the drive side spoke tension is always higher than the non-drive side and you can hear this by hitting/ pinging them with a tool
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
The hose guide hole on my fox fork is stripped, complete spinner. What’s the fix? Re-tap bigger? Shove a toothpick shaving in the hole and tighten away?
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