They're remounting, refunding the original mount, and giving me back some $$ for the binding purchase. Good enough I guess [emoji1745]
^^^ Is only one of the topsheets offset, or both? I.e. do you know where boot midsole line should be in reference to the tails?
How could you NOT notice? Did the shop give them to you like that? Like the skis were laid flat base to base? And they didn't know? Or thought you wouldn't notice? That's fucked up.
Dood, then it wasn't you who didn't listen. But yeah, mount your own fuckin skis, measure twice, drill once. #MYOFS
Unless you're blind... but if you are, say the word and the collective will create templates in effin Braille to get you on the slopes with the sticks you mounted yerself...
I see potential for growth. Meditate for a couple of days, change handle to lrn2drill... Won't take long for shit to happen following that!
Total jong question- how do I adjust the heel of a Marker demo binding? I just picked up some powder skis for my 14 year old at a ski swap and they came with demo bindings. I can adjust the length on the toe but I'm an idiot and can't figure out how to move the heel piece. Anyone know how to do this? I'm trying to set the binding for his bsl.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I think you need to release ‘locking levers’ on the sides of the heel piece:
Link to tech manual: https://www.ajmotionsports.com/wp-co...l_20202021.pdf
https://youtu.be/wOG31l-RgEI?si=HnrarCLXoc4i-Miv
Looks like you actually figured it out, you just didn't know you had.
Marker 12.0 Glide Control D Ski Bindings
Yeah. They just have a lever that you pull up. Might be worth ten bucks to have a shop test them for you if they’re still indemnified.
Awesome, you guys rock. That was what I needed. Around here it costs $30 to have a shop do a binding test. I'm thinking it may be worth it. Or is it safe to just trust an older used binding?
Puts boots on. Click into one binding. kick the toe of the clicked in boot until it comes out both ways. do the same to the heel. now do the other binding.
Do the releases feel smooth, or atleast "not fucked"? if yes, they are good to go.
also, $30 is about what a copay is on a Dr visit, so are you really saving anything?
I don’t have any kids so maybe my thought doesn’t count, but I’m pretty sure that if I got my kid used bindings and then they had a knee explode or some other twisting fall that caused an injury, it would be hard to sleep wondering if the clamps worked right or not. $30 for my own binding test? No way. $30 for my kid to have his clamps tested? For sure.
Mounting my own fucking skis this week. 2 sets of inserts, 1 for alpinists and 1 for pivots. Done plenty of “regular” mounts but never inserts and never pin bindings. I’ve got the tools and screws laid out. Planning on following the video on binding freedom for mounting pin bindings where you mount one screw, put the boot in, etc. Any last second tips?
Also for templates, the pivot template is from 2018 and the alpinist template is from 2019. I don’t think either of these binding templates have changed since then right? I’ll confirm by setting the binding on the template, but I’m not that familiar with the alpinist
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Last edited by PeachesNCream; 11-21-2023 at 04:07 PM.
once you get your inserts installed gently screw your bindings into them without turning the insert. Do not tighten all the way. Let whatever epoxy you have used cure like this. It will help to straighten out any wonky inserts. I like using a slow cure epoxy for longer working time incase you have some sort of fuck up.
G flex or comparable slow set epoxy is number one.
Drill your regular 3.6 or 4.1 holes first and mount the bindings with the wood screws. It is way easier to fill those little holes if your mount is off for some reason. Then unmount and drill with your insert bit. It is imperative that you are plumb as fuck when drilling for the insert. It drastically improves swapping bindings when that is dialed.
Thoroughly clean your inserts with generous amounts of brake cleaner and let them dry completely first. The milling process leaves oil residue that the epoxy won't adhere too very well or for very long.
Take extra care when tapping that you mark the tap depth and are aware of what the bottom of the hole feels like so you don't go too far.
Do not get epoxy inside the inserts. If you do, thread a screw in and out wiping it off a few times. Be careful to not overfill the holes either. Too much epoxy will bubble your bases when you screw the insert into the bottom of the hole.
As others mentioned, partially mount your bindings while the epoxy cures. Do not tighten all the way!
Post pics of the final product. I once inserted skis for Ions and Dukes. There were a shit ton of holes. It's a process. Don't rush it.
Good luck.
My stoned shop friend mounted these and after a year i just noticed one side of one binding is about 2 mm above the surface of the ski. Gave it a turn with the screwdriver but no joy, glued up. Can i ignore this or is my binding gonna snap when I ski it
Pull the binding, redrill that hole if it’s not deep enough, drop in glue and remount, careful not to strip the holes.
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