PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[~mikey b]

if you’re overlapping any holes you can fill them with a machineable epoxy - you can drill holes in it

SlideWright sells that stuff in blister packs too

I’ve never used it for that but it could maybe work

anyone ever try that?

[Bandit Man]

Not sure who to thank,but I recently used the Marker GW Griffon demo paper template on the Bonafide 97’s. Worked perfectly! I owe somebody a beer!

[ntblanks]

Not sure who to thank,but I recently used the Marker GW Griffon demo paper template on the Bonafide 97’s. Worked perfectly! I owe somebody a beer!

Those Tron top sheets are the shiz.

[Dan816]

Regarding a fix, you can epoxy from the top, but I'd consider mounting the screw with binding sealant like your other holes. Lay bases up & let the sealant cure, then use a tooth pick to put in some epoxy to the top of the base material. Ideally, like repairing a core shot, a thin layer metal grip could then be welded in, then weld in a bit of base material or PTEX*.

What is metal grip? Asking for a friend :-)

[~mikey b]

it’s a repair material that bonds to the edge and the core and the base

you put it in to try to hold repairs together

then you put in ptex over top of it

[~mikey b]

look at Alpinord’s website

SlideWright.com

buy your repair materials from him

[AlpiNord]

What is metal grip? Asking for a friend :-)

“Gouges and holes near edges and to the core require better bonding with heat actuated adhesives found in high quality metal grip due to their different material types (metals, wood, fiberglass, composite, etc) than UHMW (scintered) base material of performance skis and snowboards. It can be melted/welded alone or prior to covering with welding wire or ptex candles for final base finishing.”

Think of it as a ‘primer’ between base repair material and the core or edge. A little bit goes a long.


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[snowaddict91]

Finally mounted these after they sat in the gear room for a few months. My current touring setup is clapped the fuck out, so I'm pretty excited to get out on these.

[XXX-er]

“Gouges and holes near edges and to the core require better bonding with heat actuated adhesives found in high quality metal grip due to their different material types (metals, wood, fiberglass, composite, etc) than UHMW (scintered) base material of performance skis and snowboards. It can be melted/welded alone or prior to covering with welding wire or ptex candles for final base finishing.”

Think of it as a ‘primer’ between base repair material and the core or edge. A little bit goes a long.


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if you don't have metal grip can you just use 2 part slow set ?

[AlpiNord]

if you don't have metal grip can you just use 2 part slow set ?

To fill a core shot or along an edge? Sure, but you may or not get a good bond when welding the repair material over the cured epoxy. You might try roughing up the epoxy and clean first.

I’ve filled core shots with epoxy flush to the base on old BC skis and was fine because it sealed the base.

For shallow gouges and interim repairs, I’ve tried using a super hard green wax that have held up surprisingly well, too.

[~mikey b]

Alpinord

have you ever used machinable epoxy to fill and reuse bad holes?

or holes that are close or even overlapping?

[AlpiNord]

Alpinord

have you ever used machinable epoxy to fill and reuse bad holes?

or holes that are close or even overlapping?

I have in the past for bad holes/spinners to give the threads something reliable to bite. I haven’t for overlapping holes, but would be essentially the same purpose.


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[XXX-er]

To fill a core shot or along an edge? Sure, but you may or not get a good bond when welding the repair material over the cured epoxy. You might try roughing up the epoxy and clean first.

I’ve filled core shots with epoxy flush to the base on old BC skis and was fine because it sealed the base.

For shallow gouges and interim repairs, I’ve tried using a super hard green wax that have held up surprisingly well, too.

yeah epoxy has a shinny surface so i was thinking of scoring or sanding

IME trying to fill binding holes with just epoxy leaves a lot of voids & doesnt wrok that well

[gwat]

IME trying to fill binding holes with just epoxy leaves a lot of voids & doesnt wrok that well

Epoxy is my go-to. Takes a lot of patience to avoid voids.
Lately I’ve been using stubby (~5mm) pieces of bbq skewer with epoxy, pushing the skewer to the bottom of the hole then capping with epoxy. A much less tedious process than straight epoxy.

[XXX-er]

Epoxy is my go-to. Takes a lot of patience to avoid voids.
Lately I’ve been using stubby (~5mm) pieces of bbq skewer with epoxy, pushing the skewer to the bottom of the hole then capping with epoxy. A much less tedious process than straight epoxy.

same here^^ BBQ skewers from the kitchen discovered on a dark and stormy night

you could fuck around all day trying to get 2 part epoxy in the hole and it just doesnt wana go nicely, even JB weld which is paste consistency doesnt wana go and the silver color looks like ass on a ski top

[ego7man]

Need Mag Input here: I have a set of Kusalas from Pat with pivots @ 325 bsl and I need to remount to a 310. From a mount point perspective it would be better to move the toes back but I am worried about the compromised carbon right in front of the toes. Is it much safer to keep the virigin toes and move up the heels ? Is there anything special people do for the carbon on plugging holes beyond dowel/epoxy ? Maybe chopped fiberglass ? I feel awful about putting more holes in these Holy Grail skis

[XXX-er]

Best practises is to just make sure there is 1/2 inch center to center between the old and new holes

I just use chopped FG for reusing a hole or to fix a spinner

[Norseman]

you could fuck around all day trying to get 2 part epoxy in the hole and it just doesnt wana go nicely

It's easy as hell with a tapered syringe, like a dental irrigation type. Mix epoxy in a cup, then scoop into the syringe with your mixing stick and go.

[Westcoaster]

It's easy as hell with a tapered syringe, like a dental irrigation type. Mix epoxy in a cup, then scoop into the syringe with your mixing stick and go.

This is the right approach. Heat up the epoxy, helps a lot.

[AlpiNord]

^^^^
That works great.....or simply letting some flow off a stick and stirring out air bubbles with a toothpick (for epoxy & sealant). It's pretty quick and requires fewer steps and less cleanup.

[Core Shot]

^^^^
That works great.....or simply letting some flow off a stick and stirring out air bubbles with a toothpick (for epoxy & sealant). It's pretty quick and requires fewer steps and less cleanup.

That’s my go to. Dribble it in the hole. Poke it with a pick. Then dribble more.
If your shop is cold, a heat gun or far distance torch helps it flow.

Taping off the hole with blue tape is less messy if you dribble on the way to dribbling in the hole.

[~mikey b]

yeah I’ve never really had too much trouble with that

[Cocximus]

+1 to dental syringe. Epoxy does not stick to it so it can be re-used.

I filled edge coreshots with g-flex, then just as it began to set I covered it with ptex. It worked.

[gwat]

Looking to put a fourth! mount (marked in black) in these 2015 Mantras with metal topsheet.
Is this too close for comfort? Guy skis relatively hard. Old holes filled with epoxy.
WWYD?

[AlpiNord]

Looking to put a fourth! mount (marked in black) in these 2015 Mantras with metal topsheet.
Is this too close for comfort? Guy skis relatively hard. Old holes filled with epoxy.
WWYD?

I’d install stainless steel inserts for a more warm and fuzzy feeling.

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