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[climberevan]

Just ordered a new Spur with the XO1 build...anyone have a comparison between the XO1 and new XT?

Have the new XT on my current bike and really like how it shifts etc...

Seems like this question should have come before you dropped the $7k, no?


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[Dantheman]

Just ordered a new Spur with the XO1 build...anyone have a comparison between the XO1 and new XT?

Have the new XT on my current bike and really like how it shifts etc...

Spur XO1 can only take XTR. It's in the manual.

[Dshack89]

Here's one: set up my tires tubeless, they inflated great and I've been using them for a number of rides, but my air pump doesn't really give me a reading anymore (it shows no pressure, and when I pump it goes up to 20 and then slowly back to nothing), so I can't tell what the PSI is. I just squeeze the tire with my hands. Is this common / do you just live with it and guess? I'm guessing this is because I removed the presta core and put sealant in through the valve...

eta: pump works fine on the road bike tires

I've had this same issue for the first time this year. I pulled the valve core and the valve was sealed with Stans (no air comes out even without the core). I stuck an allen in there to open it up.

Pretty sure the issue is the larger particles in the new Stans race formula. The bottle says not to, but I continued injecting thru the valve because my tire bead is tight as hell and I dont wanna take off my tire. I just ordered some new truckerco pads and added some of their v2 sealant to my order. Gonna give this stuff a shot.

[snowday]

Seems like this question should have come before you dropped the $7k, no?


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Where were you before I pulled the trigger? 🤦♂️


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[skizix]

alright, well replacement valve cores were $7 on amazon so I just ordered a bunch. thanks everyone

Are all presta cores compatible with whatever presta valves?

I've got one with a bent twisty-seal knob on top (the thing you loosen to pump up the tire) - barely seals when I close it. Wasn't sure what tubeless valve would be compatible with my ibis 735's, so wondering if just a new core is the answer.

[Roxtar]

Are all presta cores compatible with whatever presta valves?

yes

wondering if just a new core is the answer.

and yes

[rideit]

There are a couple of different length cores, but I don’t recall any of them not being compatible. But I guess that is possible.

[toast2266]

Just ordered a new Spur with the XO1 build...anyone have a comparison between the XO1 and new XT?

Have the new XT on my current bike and really like how it shifts etc...

XT shifts better under load. X01 wears better/longer and weighs less. Neither are particularly durable. X01 clutch requires less fussing, but isn't adjustable. Ergonomics are personal preference.

Both are solid. I'm pretty happy on either. Or more accurately, both have their issues that annoy me, but neither is clearly superior in my experience.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

I tried that first and it pushed the cushcore over so far that it popped out of the groove and then I couldn't even get the "closer" side started.

I probably need to try that again though.

I finally used my brain and inflated the tire without cushcore and then only took the "close" bead off to stuff the cush back in.

Wow new tires rule when it's this dry.

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[snowday]

XT shifts better under load. X01 wears better/longer and weighs less. Neither are particularly durable. X01 clutch requires less fussing, but isn't adjustable. Ergonomics are personal preference.

Both are solid. I'm pretty happy on either. Or more accurately, both have their issues that annoy me, but neither is clearly superior in my experience.

Thanks for comparison, sounds like I’ll just try the xo1 out and ride.


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[Muggydude]

Has anybody had experience with oval chain rings? My ripmo came with a 28T on it. I’ve been going nuts trying to figure out what’s causing this sort of thwudding/crunching/creak type feeling on the bike. It only occurs when I’m pedaling hard (i.e. uphill not down). It kind feels like maybe the chain is coming off the chain ring hard. You can hear it too

The cassette and derailleur are almost new and look pristine. Chain is not old either. Pedals and drivetrain move extremely freely when the bike is on the stand, and you can’t hear or feel it when the bike isn’t under load.

My only other though is possibly the BB, but there’s no actual creak sound and bearings are good. No play.

So that leads me to think somehow the oval chainring is to blame or if this is normal. The bike still pedals fine and I haven’t had any problems, just an annoying feeling and sound. Seems like it does it in all gears. Going to try a new 34T normal chain ring I have to see if that fixes it. SRAM GX 1x12 drivetrain, DUB BB/Crankset


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Well I’m an idiot... found the problem. 28t oval is apparently too small for this bike. Chain was rubbing in the rear triangle when it was on the “small diameter” side of the chainring. Just barely, so didn’t cause any real damage beyond rubbing the paint. Could have sworn I checked that before and it wasn’t rubbing but apparently not.

Here it is with a 34t installed. Circled where it was rubbing. Ideally I’d probably go to a 30t or 32t oval I think.

Anyone want to trade their 28, 30, or 32t normal chainring for my 28t oval or 34t regular?


Or their 30t or 32t oval for either of my chainrings. SRAM boost compatible only

[mall walker]

is that a 28T chainring with a 10-51 eagle cassette??? do some squats man!!!

[rideit]

I run that, and am riding faster and better than ever before, making PR’s almost every ride, both uphill and down.
Too light of a gear?
Drop down. It’s that simple.
You aren’t obligated to use it.
I still ride 28/51 WAAAY faster than I can walk.
I put it on due to a knee replacement, but kept it on because results don’t lie.

[mall walker]

I am totally just busting balls fwiw

[skaredshtles]

I'm running 32x50 and am def going to get a 28-tooth chainring.

[jackstraw]

I ran a 28 on my 11sp 42 cassette and now with the sram 12sp 52 and a 32 its essentially the same except for the pia 12sp bs. I'm building an old frame up and bought 12sp stuff and wished I had stayed 11sp now that I have some experience with 12sp.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

So I guess cushcore tire wobble with Maxxis is a thing? Seems like DH tires are especially prone. I thought for sure I fucked up my rims because the bead rim interface looks totally normal, but visually my new tires wobble like crazy. I can't feel it when riding though. Should I just leave well enough alone? I figured all day at the bike park would straighten them out. Nope.

These beads are so tight that if I manage to get a flat I am never going to be able to fix it in the field.

[rideit]

Bonus, you don’t have to carry tubes or tire levers anymore!

[Muggydude]

Just how the bike came. It’s probably the ripmo itself as well, but for Colorado the 28t chainring and 51t cassette climbs significantly better and I’m much faster than I was with 34t/51t on my yeti. It’s nice to not exclusively be using the granny gear on steeper climbs.

Thinking I might go to either 30t standard or 32t oval now

[pestcontrolcorp]

hello i am new here.

I am eager to learn more things on this forum discussion.

Thanks

[Dantheman]

Thinking I might go to either 30t standard or 32t oval now

Someone was just saying that the antisquat on DW bikes is really sensitive to chainring size. I'd personally run whatever size ring the suspension was designed around

[hick]

Just how the bike came. It’s probably the ripmo itself as well, but for Colorado the 28t chainring and 51t cassette climbs significantly better and I’m much faster than I was with 34t/51t on my yeti. It’s nice to not exclusively be using the granny gear on steeper climbs.

Thinking I might go to either 30t standard or 32t oval now

Weird. 19 Ripmo, started with a 30, then went to a 28 (round). No issues. I echo the 28 t sentiment, HR lower, less knee pain, faster/efficient, but keep in mind, I have a 2” dick and have been married for 16 years. I’ve just given up in general. I ran 26 t with a 42 for years happily. Spin>mash.


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[Canada1]

The 8000 rear derailleur pulls the cable a pretty extreme angle. They tend to break next to the cable clamp where it rubs on the aluminum. A couple suggestions that you may have tried:
- When installing cable, get the adjustment right the first time. Don't clamp down on the cable, and then pull it out a little more and reclamp it. Clamping the cable weakens it, and it is prone to breakage at the clamping point.
- Don't over-torque the clamp bolt.
- Sand, file, or dremel a relief or fillet where you see silver rub marks on the derailleur housing. A small round file work well.

Attachment 335674

I hit what looked like a burr on the last cable with emery cloth and this cable lasted until last night. Probably 4-500 miles, which was better. Since it was still wearing at that point I bought a dremill grinding bit and took off some material on that edge. I also put a noodle over the cable across that point. This is really a design issue with these derailleurs. I guess if you never here from me again on this that means it worked!

[Boissal]

Ideally I’d probably go to a 30t or 32t oval I think.

If you want to push a slightly bigger ring I have a 34t oval that I ran on a GX drivetrain, made by Garbaruk. I can check the part bin, may also have a 32t round.

[bagtagley]

Someone was just saying that the antisquat on DW bikes is really sensitive to chainring size. I'd personally run whatever size ring the suspension was designed around

DW is sag sensitive, but is it any more chainring sensitive than other designs? I'm not sure. Seems like antisquat is antisquat, though I guess the effect could be more exaggerated on certain suspension designs? DW was released in the olden days of triple front chainrings, so compromises were expected. Not a call out, I'm genuinely curious.

Regardless of suspension design, it's a good idea to stick with the recommended chainring size if possible. A 28T on a bike designed around a 32T is gonna get some pretty good kickback in technical terrain.