Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[highangle]

A 460 PI would be much better. An I4 Perkins deezel even better yet...

Take down to frame.
351 Cleveland or 460PI ~400hp, full locking Super60 front/rears, 13" discs fore and aft, 10" Rough Country, 37" on 20x10
About $5k on paint job. You could do a bunch of interior yourself.
Truck will crank every time and engine will have DD longevity.


Conoces a alguien en Mexico?



.

[Jong Lafitte]

A 460 PI would be much better. An I4 Perkins deezel even better yet...

Take down to frame.
351 Cleveland or 460PI ~400hp, full locking Super60 front/rears, 13" discs fore and aft, 10" Rough Country, 37" on 20x10
About $5k on paint job. You could do a bunch of interior yourself.
Truck will crank every time and engine will have DD longevity.


Conoces a alguien en Mexico?



.

Not that I don't like the spec but some reason I thought this vehicle was a 2wd. Either way, you could at least do a compression test on the 360 so you can get some idea of where you stand regarding the motor. If its a good motor, it might be worth a few tune up/performance parts before you immediately go swapping in a Boss 502 or whathaveya. Oh yeah, and, also, is there much rust?

[highangle]

It might be better to start with a whole nother frame then. Like a deuce and a half.
Then he can get a tranny and transfer case for each axle. A little fab time. Not much.
Prob want CVs tho.

[Rideski]

[highangle]

[tuco]

@tuco /yeti I've read here on tgr probably from one of you two that there is a nut/bolt to tighten on the ZF 5spd trans in the 4.9 that eliminates a slight scratch going into third gear. Ring a bell? I'm on ford forums now and not finding it.

Missed this. ZF5sp. comes in 250's and 350's. F150's used the Mazda M5OD(150's used the heavier M5OD designated the R2). So these trucks come with M5ODR2
Not sure of tightening a nut to fix it. If you find it, post that shit cuz mine does that too. I was thinking syncro or shiftfork. I just slightly hesitate while shifting and push shifter into gear slowly. Can't really speed shift these trannies, gotta just shift em steady

[highangle]

My mechanic (installing new engine at the moment) recently strongly discourages his customers from moog. Said that he has opened up a few new moog components to find something that he would call grease (or other lubricate). This is recent development with moog in his experience.

Got my Moog tie rods in. They weigh about 30lbs more than what's coming out of there.
One of them had dust on one end, like it was next to a fan for a while.

The grease-looking shit in the Moog tie rod ends is dry moly assembly lube/antirust .

[Game Over]

Not that I don't like the spec but some reason I thought this vehicle was a 2wd. Either way, you could at least do a compression test on the 360 so you can get some idea of where you stand regarding the motor. If its a good motor, it might be worth a few tune up/performance parts before you immediately go swapping in a Boss 502 or whathaveya. Oh yeah, and, also, is there much rust?

Yea 2wd. Engine is fine. I don’t want to mess with anything cosmetic aside from cleaning up under the hood and the interior. Its gonna be strictly a farm/shop/yard truck so it will continue to get beat.

My list would be something like this—
3pt seat belts
Clean up all the wiring. It’s fine now but just ugly.
Working heater
Cheapest bluetooth stereo I can find

[bodywhomper]

Got my Moog tie rods in. They weigh about 30lbs more than what's coming out of there.
One of them had dust on one end, like it was next to a fan for a while.

The grease-looking shit in the Moog tie rod ends is dry moly assembly lube/antirust .

Interesting. Thanks for the follow up. Were you disappointed or cool with it?

I can't remember all of my mechanic's story (he told be back in the summer). But my memory is that he found the cruddy dry stuff was where good grease should have been found, and he encountered this problem a few times. He was investigating because he was problemsolving and doing warranty work on the problematic Moog components that he had ordered and installed.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using TGR Forums mobile app

[highangle]

Right. Looks like dried out (oxidized) grease, but it's not (and it doesn't have grease compatibility issues).
A $20 grease gun makes about 900psi, a good one makes about 4000psi. It will push that shit right out.
Tell your man he's supposed to install the alumites and grease these hekn things until they purge before he sends his customer down the road. Take a pic of his reaction. heh



Haven't installed them yet, but these Moog tie rods and ends are way beefier than stock, are all greaseable, and have a lifetime warranty.
They don't have "MADE IN USA" stamped on, but they don't have "Made in China" either, so?
Happy so far, not the least disappointed, and suspect they'll represent an upgrade over the factory steering linkage.

The Moog-branded U-joints are top notch too. Spicer top of line, xcpt with Moog's proprietary clear coating instead of Spicer's blue. Srsly - Moog literature uses same "forged cross" and "triple seal with thrust washer" and "Proudly Made In USA" lingo as Dana/Spicer (who BTW originally invented and patented the U-joint). Blue grease.
Paid 37 cents on the Spicer dollar, cause RockAuto on that part on that day.

I'll post comparison pics to old when I get around to doing the job. Haven't got all the parts in yet.

Did see a forum post where a guy photo'd all his existing measurements, to keep his alignment with new linkage. I'm like, "D'oh! That's a fuckovalot smarter than trying to count threads! Imma do like that!!"...


.

[Rideski]

Wellll fuck. Indeed looks to be a leaking slave.


This nut on the cross member bracket officially goes into things that annoy you. Cut a hole through the cross member with torch to get impact on.

Yanked that trans out.

Some wear on clutch disk but not too bad

Bearing was looking pretty toasty though.

Cleaning up surface between trans and transfer case


New slave in, bearing looks a lot beefier


Bought 2 long bolts that fit threads, cut the heads off, and inserted to hold trans till we got bolts in

purdy new clutch


Going back up


bitch slave

[MakersTeleMark]

Solid wrenchin right there.

[Rideski]

Thanks man

[MakersTeleMark]

You go girl!

[4matic]

Pretty badass home wrenching

[basinbeater]

Nice work!

sent from some fucking device using some fucking program.

[highangle]

Nice garage Rideski... Did flywheel need resurfaced?

[Obstruction]

Quality work and photagging!

[Rideski]

Thanks guys. No there was only like 120,000 miles on the truck, flywheel had a bit of glaze, just scrubbed it with brake parts cleaner on a heavy rag and slapped it back on. Clutch assembly probably would have been fine to leave on but after all that work seemed logical to be proactive.

[bodywhomper]

Very impressive with the clutch/transmission work (and the photo documentation).

Right. Looks like dried out (oxidized) grease, but it's not (and it doesn't have grease compatibility issues).
A $20 grease gun makes about 900psi, a good one makes about 4000psi. It will push that shit right out.
Tell your man he's supposed to install the alumites and grease these hekn things until they purge before he sends his customer down the road. Take a pic of his reaction. heh



Haven't installed them yet, but these Moog tie rods and ends are way beefier than stock, are all greaseable, and have a lifetime warranty.
They don't have "MADE IN USA" stamped on, but they don't have "Made in China" either, so?
Happy so far, not the least disappointed, and suspect they'll represent an upgrade over the factory steering linkage.

The Moog-branded U-joints are top notch too. Spicer top of line, xcpt with Moog's proprietary clear coating instead of Spicer's blue. Srsly - Moog literature uses same "forged cross" and "triple seal with thrust washer" and "Proudly Made In USA" lingo as Dana/Spicer (who BTW originally invented and patented the U-joint). Blue grease.
Paid 37 cents on the Spicer dollar, cause RockAuto on that part on that day.

I'll post comparison pics to old when I get around to doing the job. Haven't got all the parts in yet.

Did see a forum post where a guy photo'd all his existing measurements, to keep his alignment with new linkage. I'm like, "D'oh! That's a fuckovalot smarter than trying to count threads! Imma do like that!!"...


.

I'll pick my mechanics brain more about this if I have a chance. He used to provide customers with a parts and labor warranty for Moog stuff, which was offered as an upgrade to OEM. It came up when he was explaining to me the price points for parts that he made available to customers with that warranty.

It's all new to me. When he first mentioned Moog, I thought he was teasing me to see if I was listening. It took me a second to realize he didn't oddly transition to talking about musical instruments.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using TGR Forums mobile app

[highangle]

Fkn synthesizers...

If bigger is better, then this Moog linkage is better. Like you said, 'upgrade from OEM'. Not painted or powdercoated though, and don't appear to be clear coated...prob primed w/potassium to black rust.
The 2 ends came rattling around in oversized boxes with zero padding. Threads are wet which is fine since they're not studs for clamping loads, but they do collect cardboard dust. The rods come with shipping sleeves on the threads.
Looked at labels, the 2 ends and the radius bar Made in USA. The 5' steering rod just had a RA shipping box. Same "Moog Problem Solver Sunoloy-coated Metal Gusher Bearing" mojo and same finish though, so prob same US plant. [I just tried to check that, and RA is way cheaper for the Moog F350 parts than Advance and O'Reilly's. #Even shipped to AK]


So far, the only parts definitely not marked Made in USA are the Napa rotors and Mevotech ball joints from the PRC, and the Motorcraft Spicer and Timken seals, from the ROC.


...

[tripice351]

Wellll fuck. Indeed looks to be a leaking slave.

Like I said, have fun with that. Glad to see you got it done. Good job!

[highangle]

Very impressive with the clutch/transmission work (and the photo documentation).I'll pick my mechanics brain more about this if I have a chance. He used to provide customers with a parts and labor warranty for Moog stuff, which was offered as an upgrade to OEM. It came up when he was explaining to me the price points for parts that he made available to customers with that warranty.

It's all new to me. When he first mentioned Moog, I thought he was teasing me to see if I was listening. It took me a second to realize he didn't oddly transition to talking about musical instruments.

...

OK, throw my 2 cents worth into this thread.

Moog was a sister division of the company I used to work for 2 years ago when it decided to relieve 4,500 elder employees of their responsibilities. And I knew the R&D director of the Moog division.

First, the Moog division has not been sold recently. It was 11 years ago [2000] when all of us were bought by the current parent company.

The Moog guys were very proud that they were still able to provide all metal components rather then meet the price pressures of the marketplace and sell a polymer lined product that they determined in their test labs was not as durable. While the polymer-lined products do offer the advantage of not needing to be periodically lubricated, they do suffer plastic deformation over time and loosen up. The disadvantage with the all metal products is they do require continued maintenance lubrication, which has it’s own pitfalls. The two major failure rates of ball and socket components are lack of lubrication and dirt injection when lubricating, something simply fixed by wiping the zerk before putting on the coupling.

It’s possible that due to marketplace price pressures that they have changed their philosophy in the last two years and have altered their product, but if so their would not be a grease zerk in the box.

On Edit: I should have thrown a third failure mode in my post, and that effects all types of ball and socket joints - Dust Boots. When a dust seal cracks or looses its elasticity water, and most concerning dirty water, will get into the joint. Either the abrasive dirt or rust (iron oxide is abrasive) will then wear the joint in short order.

[basinbeater]

I've accumulated a bit of spare car stereo stuff over the last year and a half, and actually have some decent looking stuff. Figured winter was as good a time as any to start putting it in.
This will all go in the Porsche 944 turbo.
Alpine mrx f65 4 channel amp for front and rear speakers
Alpine 3542 power amplifier (old school made in Japan goodness) for a subwoofer.
Alpine type r 5.25 component woofers with crossovers (need tweeters or will reuse factory tweets)
We'll see what kind of shape the stock 6.5 components are in before jumping to replace as I don't have any spares right now.


sent from some fucking device using some fucking program.

[basinbeater]

Bit of progress after the kids went to bed.
Pulled the door apart and pulled the panel that holds the door speakers. From the factory the door holds 3 speakers, two in the lower panel seen here, a 5.25 woofer, a 3.somethin mid range, and higher up, a tweeter. The crossover lives in this panel as well. The woofer took a bit of trimming to fit the frame of the Alpine unit, but it seems to be in there pretty good now. I used some acrylic to cover the hole from the mid, as it was toast, and the Alpine system is a two way not 3 way.
A few wires and this is ready to go back in the door.

sent from some fucking device using some fucking program.