Gotta also make sure you can pop your heels up.. Start with recommended settings. Twist each toe out left, then right, then pop up each heel.. If you can do that without hurting yourself, they're working.. If it's super easy, crank them down another half click and repeat..
FWIW, a "good" shop will work on them, but just FAIL them under the visual section. They'll mount them and check the release then tell you they failed visual inspection.
Go that way really REALLY fast. If something gets in your way, TURN!
Prolly already discussed here somewhere but I couldn’t find it... going to move a mount up a cm or a cm 1/2, what’s the best way to protect the old holes in case I decide I want to go back???
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Fear, Doubt, Disbelief, you have to let it all go. Free your mind!
Inserts
Thanks, this was my first consideration for sure but I really don’t want to widen holes and add metal where I don’t think I want a mount. Was hoping for someone’s exp with something like retapping a silicone filler if that would confidently seal the core for the short term? It’s not a huge deal as I’m a solid 80% I want to move em up, I just don’t want to kill the option before I try.
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Fear, Doubt, Disbelief, you have to let it all go. Free your mind!
Bunch of ways to do this. Silicone - though it can be a pain to get out. Ptex works ok. Hot glue gun can work well - just melt it out if you want to reuse holes. But the best and easiest is probably a plastic binding hole plug. If you want to reuse hole, drill a thin pilot hole in the plug, screw a 1 1/4” Sheetrock screw in a few threads, and then pull it out with a claw hammer and the plug should pop right out with it - put a 1x board under the hammer for better leverage.
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Word, thanks guys!! Never thought about pulling a plug, I definitely try that option
Fear, Doubt, Disbelief, you have to let it all go. Free your mind!
Wouldn’t the threads of the plugged hole be a bit shot compromising the integrity of the hole? Honest question. Not posting from experience.
Uno mas
not mine
not the easiest toe to install solo
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"When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
"I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
"THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
"I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno
I do but assume Plug extraction a bitch if dropped in coated w wood glue or a marine epoxy
I’ve flailed trying to extract in the past and assumed this was the culprit. Screwed w some plastic left behind. Filler I assumed???
Uno mas
I just drill out the plug with the appropriate mounting bit for the ski. Any loose plastic usually pops right out. Sometimes the plug will lose its bond towards the bottom and just spin the plug out. Anything left behind I just leave in there before carefully mounting the replacement bindings by hand.
Never use a drill to install binding screws.
so youre tellin me ive done it wrong some thousands times now
good to know
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"When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
"I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
"THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
"I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno
Pro techs can do as they please
I wouldn’t know
SFB can do what he wants.
I prefer to not risk spinners with the pull of a trigger.
Well, screw guns do have clutches
Why wouldn't an adjustable clutch drill avoid the deadly over-drill spinner?
edit: what Tuco sed
Not only that, but I find it easier to control proper downward force. I'll usually do the last half to quarter turn by hand (that's what she said).
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