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Thread: Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

  1. #626
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Zander View Post
    car ramps for the rear? what kind of vehicle? my subaru was JUST high enough with ramps on the back to drop the tranny
    BRZ so 4.5" clearance. Most ramps I'm seeing only give ~6" so that's not even enough to get the tranny out and move it aside.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kailua_Boys View Post
    If your incline is slight just put the car on stands and it should be fine. Get big truck stands from harbor fight if it worries you. Use common sense but it shouldn't be an issue.

    I wouldn't bother with the fly wheel. I just left my trucks as is and it went fine for the next four years before I sold it.

    Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
    I'm thinking truck stands and big blocks under all 4 wheels also. I need at least a foot. I just need to get it level so it drains right and is at the right level when I refill with fresh fluid.

    Yeah that's what I'm thinking with the flywheel, just clean it well and roll with it as is. Tough to compare a truck with (theoretically) heavier duty parts than a lightweight Subiyota sports car

  2. #627
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    Damn....there are some serious skills on display in this thread .

    Plugs #2 and #7 looked like this....



    Seem to have water leaks in both exhaust manifolds. Better of the two options.....$500 beats the price of a new block any day.





    Much easier than working under a hood.

  3. #628
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    ^ pics no worky for me

  4. #629
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    Forgot about this thread.

    I changed out what I believe to be the original plugs and wires on my blazer at 186,xxx a few weekends ago (don't worry, not the original owner lol). I thought plug 3 was going to give me trouble being directly behind the steering column but was just able to access it using a universal joint. Biggest PITA were the wire clips. Some opened like butter and others needed a damn team of oxen, which was problematic considering the flimsy brackets they were mounted on.

    Wasn't sure what to expect out of it other than perhaps a slight increase in mileage but I'm honestly blown away by how differently the car drives now. The engine and trans are cooperating near flawlessly and it feels like it gained a decent amount hp and torque back. Should also mention that I replaced cap and rotor a couple thousand miles ago.

  5. #630
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    Quote Originally Posted by powbmps View Post
    Damn....there are some serious skills on display in this thread .

    Plugs #2 and #7 looked like this....



    Seem to have water leaks in both exhaust manifolds. Better of the two options.....$500 beats the price of a new block any day.





    Much easier than working under a hood.
    It took me a minute to realize that was a boat and not some kind of van conversion.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #631
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
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    463
    Stripped oil pan drain threads in our F150, most likely from extreme over-torquing in its past life. Sourced a new pan for 70 clams and so far, no leaks.

    Threads left on bolt:
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  7. #632
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    2,663
    If getting an erection from new rubber makes me wrong, I don't want to be right.



    Also, fuck Discount Tire and their torque wrenches. Twice.


  8. #633
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
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    Orangina
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    Good choice, sir. Had those on a truck years ago and loved them in snow and ice.

  9. #634
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    yeah, I have them on my 80 right now. They worked well in the desert this spring. And work pretty well on the highway gettin places too.
    sigless.

  10. #635
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    I was getting a dsc awd and brake assist start error on my wife's 07 bmw e61 wagon. The error would kick on when I would turn the steering wheel, and a quick pull on the codes showed the SZL (steering angle sensor) error. It would ocassionaly reset if I recalibrated the sensor, but would usually come back on a short while later. So I decided to pull it apart and clean it. Seems to have worked. I'll feel better after a couple of days of not seeing it, but you can see in the pics, the optical disk had some plastic sweat residue on it. It looked much better after cleaning. It wasn't too tough to get to either. All in all, took about an hour including test drive. A new switch is like $400, so time well spent. Oh yeah, when I first turned it on, and the error popped up, I started cursing, then re calibrated, that cleared the error, and it has not come back. I think the problem is solved.
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    sigless.

  11. #636
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    Mar 2006
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    20,181

    Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

    Smoggy. Nice looking wagon. How do you pop the cover out? Plastic tool?

  12. #637
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by basinbeater View Post
    I was getting a dsc awd and brake assist start error on my wife's 07 bmw e61 wagon. The error would kick on when I would turn the steering wheel, and a quick pull on the codes showed the SZL (steering angle sensor) error. It would ocassionaly reset if I recalibrated the sensor, but would usually come back on a short while later. So I decided to pull it apart and clean it. Seems to have worked. I'll feel better after a couple of days of not seeing it, but you can see in the pics, the optical disk had some plastic sweat residue on it. It looked much better after cleaning. It wasn't too tough to get to either. All in all, took about an hour including test drive. A new switch is like $400, so time well spent. Oh yeah, when I first turned it on, and the error popped up, I started cursing, then re calibrated, that cleared the error, and it has not come back. I think the problem is solved.
    Need to do pretty the same thing on our XC70 when I get back from vacation (although the sensor is part of the. Part is $200, but apparently there is a chance I will need to have some sort of reprogramming done by a dealer if I need to replace the part.

  13. #638
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    Airbag pops out easiest with a flathead screwdriver. Push in from the bottom with the blade of the screwdriver frint to back, there is a wire spring that when you push on it, the airbag pops out. Disconnect the battery first.
    Then pull the wheel off, undo a few small electrical plugs, set aside, then is just. Bunch a torx bolts to pull the whole assembly. Then more torx bolts to take it apart to get to the optic disk. Clean it with isopropyl alcohol, and put 'er back together.
    07 Wagon is for sale. $7k, with 103k mi, and sport package, awd, premium package. Lotta car for the money... Yeah the smoke from the CA fires sucks.

  14. #639
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    sounds like those Volvo XC70 have issues with the clock spring in the steering column stack. usually right next to the steering angle sensor. But different piece. Sounds like you need the right software to calibrate the vehicle after installing a new one.
    sigless.

  15. #640
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    My understanding is that the sensor is part of the clock spring assembly. If my car has the most recent software update (I have no idea) and I install a new clock spring, I shouldn't need dealer callibration. Otherwise...

    I'll find out next week.


    Sent from my Pixel using TGR Forums mobile app

  16. #641
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    3,262
    Bad u joint
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    Fixed

  17. #642
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    latest project car... 1995 BMW 540i 6spd manual. Only about 3500 were sold in the US. So pretty rare. 4 liter v8, sport seats, and needs a bunch of work, not least of all is it needs a new transmission. Luckily, I just happened to have a spare sitting around in the garage... So I grabbed it.
    165k, $2k.
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    sigless.

  18. #643
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    Sep 2008
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    ^^^Great car.

    I finally figured out the source of a slow coolant leak on my V50. It was a shitty hose clamp that came attached to a brand new hose (labelled FoMoCo) I installed hoping to solve that same leak. Didn't clamp hard enough. That'll teach me to rule out brand new parts as the source of a problem.

    Getting out from under Ford sure seems to have worked wonders for Volvo. Hopefully this car isn't soon doomed by another part from the FoMoCo era. At least the Mazda chassis is pretty good.

  19. #644
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    Just takin it apart in anticipation of some paint... Next step sanding everything.Click image for larger version. 

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    sigless.

  20. #645
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    Jan 2017
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    NW WA
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    Figured this was the right place to share this photo. Ball joint sheared in half a few weeks ago on the way into work. Fortunately I was only going 30 mph...
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  21. #646
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    Makin progress, most of the body filler work is done, and whole body is masked and sanded...
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    sigless.

  22. #647
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    No... I missed my old one so much, that when I saw this one with sport package I jumped. It likely will be my daily for a while. They are great great great daily drivers. Did I mention they are great?
    Last one I had sold for $8k with just over 100k miles, and in need of a paint job. Otherwise it was pretty well sorted.
    sigless.

  23. #648
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    Got the primer down today.
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    sigless.

  24. #649
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    You're spraying the color in the garage too?
    "timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang

  25. #650
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    Yeah, why the hell not?

    Bromo, I can help you find a good 540i. They are great cars, way better than the newer (e60+) ones in my opinion. e39 ones are good too, just need to watch those timing chain guides, or change them out if they are rattling, kind of a big job...
    sigless.

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