PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[Core Shot]

You need a Pozi driver to adjust or remove those brakes. If you’re working on ski bindings without the correct tools, just stop.

For the life of me I can’t figure out why someone would risk damaging a $100 piece of equipment for the price of a $10 tool.

A wide blade screwdriver will probably still turn that screw. I hope you’re patient.

I was able to send a set of heels back to Look for a rebuild that had been damaged and sold to me. From what I understand the adjustment tubes are not user replaceable/serviceable.

At least a #3 Philips. Kills me to see bindings adjusted and heads stripped with a #2.
But yes, buy a pozi #3 and leave it in your ski bag.

[gwat]

I was able to send a set of heels back to Look for a rebuild that had been damaged and sold to me. From what I understand the adjustment tubes are not user replaceable/serviceable.

What did they rebuild on the bindings?

[dschane]

You need a Pozi driver to adjust or remove those brakes.

Yes, I assumed they were stripped and the Pozi #3 wouldn't bite. If you haven't tried that, buy the bit.

[PlayItLeo]

Or try a #2 square/Robertson drive tip


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[S.B.]

FYI, this was how I received the bindings and not a result of my efforts to unscrew the heel. Thanks for the suggestions

[jackattack]

What did they rebuild on the bindings?

The reason I sent it back was that the din calibration window was damaged, so I couldn't set the din. Their service department was super helpful and rebuilt the heel completely.

[Toddball]

Can't wait to mount my own gosh-darned skis! Ready to summit some peaks!

[XXX-er]

so I had to plug some old holes in a ski, I didn't have any plastic plugs, IME golf tees kind of suck and that piece of dowel I bought for the purpose is lost, but I found a bag of probably Bamboo wooden skewers in the cultlery drawer, which are EXACTLY the right size to fit snuggly into the holes

So cut them into 1/2" pieces, drop a little 2 part into each hole, start the pieces in the holes, hammer them down and bobs yer uncle

not really a game changer

probably more of a Macgyver move

[Core Shot]

If I don’t have plugs, I just fill the hole with JB weld.
Use a paper clip to fill the hole with epoxy.
Use a hairdryer or torch to get it to flow in.

Strongest plug. Not as quick as plastic.

[XXX-er]

well YMMV but IME I get voids/gaps/bubbles trying to fill a screw hole and JB weld is THE worst epoxy product for filling a hole cuz it does not flow and its an ugly color on my ski

so IME I also need some material to fill up the void

scaming plugs from a ski store works ok but might cost you a 6-pak

golf tees need to be sanded down a bunch to fit

but the BBQ skewers are cheap & fit really nice

[Core Shot]

^^^^ the heat makes it flow. Clear epoxy also works.
As the heat makes the epoxy slide down, use the paperclip to pop any bubbles. Drip more epoxy in, let that flow. It’s pretty easy with heat.

Once I ran out of black plugs, gray was all I had, so I’m used to the color.

But good idea on the wood skewers.

[1000-oaks]

The adjustment screw is stripped, any ideas on how to get the heel off the brakes? I'm trying to swap brakes but i don't have a screwdriver that can hold onto this.

Everybody should have a Grabit Screw Extractor Kit, you'll have that out in seconds just using the reverse-drill end. I use mine way more often than I like.

[S.B.]

Everybody should have a Grabit Screw Extractor Kit, you'll have that out in seconds just using the reverse-drill end. I use mine way more often than I like.

It came out with some oil and patience, hopefully now the rust will be off the threads so it won't be as hard to put it back on

[wakefield]

Quick question—

I bought a pair of Wrens that have two sets of freedom inserts mounted. I'm planning on throwing a third mount on for a set of pivots. Plenty of space for the mount, but I'm wondering about just leaving the inserts open.

They're supposed to be watertight, right? I'm never going to use them, but I'm weighing throwing some epoxy in the holes just to be safe.

Has anyone had a problem letting the inserts just be when not using them ever? They're going to be covered by the pivots, so I worry about them just being open and uncovered beneath them.

[slowroastin]

They have a flat closed bottom. So no water could get into the core.


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[XXX-er]

Awesome, props to the boyz for pulling it off!! Hopefully video footy of the skim emerges, otherwise obv it didnt happen

https://www.facebook.com/danielle.ma...515182439/?t=3

the vid^^ duno if you can see this ?[

[Toddball]

https://www.facebook.com/danielle.ma...515182439/?t=3

the vid^^ duno if you can see this ?[

nope

[::: :::]

whats rong with this picture ?

there is so much right in this picher...really a quintessential TRG photo

hopefully you have it backed up and available for the good of all of magdom

hopefully, that vid above can break out of the book of feces

[XXX-er]

ya the vid has surfaced on someones FB page so its only a matter of time before I get a copy that will play

[californiagrown]

I picked up a pair of 195 Rossignol Bandit 108s last night at Play-It-Again because, well, they were $30 and why not?

I only have the normal drill bit, not the one that is spec'ed for skis with metal in them. I was gonna mount some shitty look demo bindings i have in my garage and take them out for a few runs this spring. I feel like using my normal drill bit will work out fine, but am will reconsider if folks here tell me its a terrible idea. Seems like a ski that doesnt want to turn at all until i reach a speed i am not at all comfortable crashing at haha, so id rather not have a binding rip out... or fuck up my drill bit.

[XXX-er]

I layout using a T-square drawing on masking tape and I always just use a regular bit

I suggest use a drill stop so you don't drill thru the ski

I drill thru a piece of wood, a wine bottle cork is perfect

I slide the drill bit in or out of the chuck to leave how much depth I want

I supose you could tap the holes but I never do

I mount the screws with epoxy

[dschane]

I only have the normal drill bit, not the one that is spec'ed for skis with metal in them. I was gonna mount some shitty look demo bindings i have in my garage and take them out for a few runs this spring. I feel like using my normal drill bit will work out fine, but am will reconsider if folks here tell me its a terrible idea. Seems like a ski that doesnt want to turn at all until i reach a speed i am not at all comfortable crashing at haha, so id rather not have a binding rip out... or fuck up my drill bit.

The recommendation is use the bigger 4.1 bit and tap so they don't volcano up. Never tried not doing either, so I say go for it and report back.

[californiagrown]

I layout using a T-square drawing on masking tape and I always just use a regular bit

I suggest use a drill stop so you don't drill thru the ski

I drill thru a piece of wood, a wine bottle cork is perfect

I slide the drill bit in or out of the chuck to leave how much depth I want

I supose you could tap the holes but I never do

I mount the screws with epoxy

I have a Wintersteiger(sp?) drill bit that i used to mount 3 fucking skis this past winter, but its the normal sized one... 3.6mm? Not the one specific for skis with metal in them. Oh well, ill just try it and see what happens. Worse case, i make a shot ski.

[XXX-er]

well after using yer 3.6mm you could chase the hole with the correct size?

I'm mounting an AT binding right now by drilling a pilot hole with a very small bit, check placement, follow up with the right size and then putting the chamfer on the hole with a 5/16ths rotated by hand

its all pretty slow going and best done while listening to CBC radio and drinking massive quantities of espresso

[gregorys]

I have a Wintersteiger(sp?) drill bit that i used to mount 3 fucking skis this past winter, but its the normal sized one... 3.6mm? Not the one specific for skis with metal in them. Oh well, ill just try it and see what happens. Worse case, i make a shot ski.

First, a #20 [or #21] drill bit is *really* close to a 4.1mm bit. I've seen them in hardware stores, like Ace. You might call around to a real hardware store [NOT HOME DEPOT, they are not a hardware store.] and see if they have one. Easy, cheap, no shipping, you may be able to get it today etc. This is the very best option.

But, if not- then...
I've done it fine. A tiny bit of volcano, but only slightly. And you can improve on my method.

Here's what I would do to reduce the volcano effect, and it's pretty trivial.

If you have the 12AB tap use it. [I'm 99.9% sure you don't or you'd have said. And it's pretty unlikely you'd have the tap and not the 4.1mm bit.]
So, use the screws as your tap. I'd probably only use one [or two to spread the wear/heat some.]

Simply drill the holes - making sure not to go too deep, or through the ski [unless that's your intent.]
Then *without* the binding, simply run the screws into the holes as your tap.

Things to keep in mind:
Keep the screw as perpendicular as you can.
Since you don't have a binding attached, don't run the screw all the way to the shank. This will be FAR worse than drilling all the way through the ski. [Using a manual screw-driver will help, at least some, here.]
Do each hole in turn. The screw is going to get hot, perhaps REALLY hot. Switch around to another screw, if you like. Try to watch that you don't damage the threads on the screw too much. If they're wearing a lot after several holes, switch screws.

Then, after "tapping" all the holes, pull the screws out and then use epoxy [or at least wood glue] and mount with the bindings.
Tighten down to a reasonable level.

You're good.
Almost certainly you'll do just fine.