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Thread: PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

  1. #1976
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    From this old post:

    Originally Posted by North TLDR:
    1. Make sure ski clamp slides operate smoothly - any binding issues can be fixed by filing/sanding slide
    2. If the clamps bind, don't try to push through it using the spinny lever - the plastic will strip and skip teeth (duh)
    3. Supervise all novice users to avoid swiss cheese mounts
    4. Draw a centerline on a piece of tape on the ski and (or scribe) on the center of two ends of the Jigarex frame.
    or add Centering Ruler Stickers on the ends and BSC:




    Edit to add:



    An alternative to drawing a center line:


    • use a combination square against the edge set to an arbitrary length, near the end of the Jigarex
    • make a mark from each edge
    • measure the distance between to find center of ski
    • double check alignment of the Jigarex
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
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    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
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  2. #1977
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    Quote Originally Posted by nyskirat View Post
    Yep. That's true, but people make mistakes. I did and I'll learn from it.

    Simple part of life. Live and learn


    Not a bad idea on the Jigarex. Will definitely do that next time around.
    Bummer about the skis. Hopefully next time goes better.

  3. #1978
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    Quote Originally Posted by NW_SKIER View Post
    Bummer about the skis. Hopefully next time goes better.
    They're still skiable, just harder to sell since limited room for remounts.

    That's a 1st world issue

    I can live with it.

  4. #1979
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    Quote Originally Posted by N1CK. View Post
    nice. what have you got there??
    174 Heavy Core + Carbon/Veneer Piste Jibs for skiing with my kids.

  5. #1980
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    WWMD?

    I bought a new pair of boots this fall and they're shorter than my previous AT boots - enough so that the heel pieces of my dynafit radicals don't have enough travel to make up the distance. So, clearly I've got to remount here. The question is, do I remount just the toe, just the heel, or both (that makes no sense...)?
    Thanks!
    <p>
    go Go GO! 24-25: 104! [SIZE=&quot;1&quot;]23-24: 75. 22-23: 56. 21-22: ?. 20-21: 10+?. 19-20: 79. 18-19: 86. 17-18: 80. 16-17: 56. 15-16: 40. 14-15: 33. 13-14: 56ish. 12-13: 51. 11-12: 65. 10-11: 69. 09-10: 65.[/SIZE]</p>

  6. #1981
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    Quote Originally Posted by Far View Post
    174 Heavy Core + Carbon/Veneer Piste Jibs for skiing with my kids.
    Aaaaaaahhhhh shit!!! That was my guess dammit, I should've posted
    Fear, Doubt, Disbelief, you have to let it all go. Free your mind!

  7. #1982
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    JFC guys... way to kick a mag when he's down
    and as usual, Terry FTW

    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    And If my aunt had a dick she’d be my uncle
    ok, that was good.
    Last edited by pisteoff; 01-04-2018 at 09:36 PM.

  8. #1983
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    Quote Originally Posted by akokskis View Post
    WWMD?

    I bought a new pair of boots this fall and they're shorter than my previous AT boots - enough so that the heel pieces of my dynafit radicals don't have enough travel to make up the distance. So, clearly I've got to remount here. The question is, do I remount just the toe, just the heel, or both (that makes no sense...)?
    Thanks!
    How much are we talking? If you want to keep them on the line, then more than likely will have to remount both, you may be able to just remount toes. If you're ok with being forward then just the heels.

  9. #1984
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2FUNKY View Post
    How much are we talking? If you want to keep them on the line, then more than likely will have to remount both, you may be able to just remount toes. If you're ok with being forward then just the heels.
    Old boots are 320, new ones are 305. If i split the 15mm of difference (and am thinking about this right), that would leave me re-mounting 7.5mm inside of both sets current holes, and I'm under the impression that a full cm is the minimum amount of space between holes. That got me thinking that I could just remount either the toe or the heel a full cm (or more) from the previous holes, but... I'm just not totally sure.
    <p>
    go Go GO! 24-25: 104! [SIZE=&quot;1&quot;]23-24: 75. 22-23: 56. 21-22: ?. 20-21: 10+?. 19-20: 79. 18-19: 86. 17-18: 80. 16-17: 56. 15-16: 40. 14-15: 33. 13-14: 56ish. 12-13: 51. 11-12: 65. 10-11: 69. 09-10: 65.[/SIZE]</p>

  10. #1985
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    I have mounted a bunch of skis with less than a cm between holes, even down to 5mm with zero issues. Just plug the holes good and use epoxy in the plugs.

  11. #1986
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    PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

    How much heel adjustment do you have? Can you move the toes and adjust the heels?


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

    SlideWright.com
    Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
    Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
    Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR

  12. #1987
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    If they are Dynafit the toe holes are the same spacing, so are the heels. I’d drill 2 new holes, use 2 original holes and only move one piece, either the toes or heels. see what ever gets you closest to your desired boot center.

  13. #1988
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    If they are Dynafit the toe holes are the same spacing, so are the heels. I’d drill 2 new holes, use 2 original holes and only move one piece, either the toes or heels. see what ever gets you closest to your desired boot center.
    Oooh, this is shockingly obvious and yet very clever. Looks like, from eye-balling it, that I can move the heel piece up and then adjust it backwards and that gets me pretty damn close to where I want em mounted. Thanks!
    <p>
    go Go GO! 24-25: 104! [SIZE=&quot;1&quot;]23-24: 75. 22-23: 56. 21-22: ?. 20-21: 10+?. 19-20: 79. 18-19: 86. 17-18: 80. 16-17: 56. 15-16: 40. 14-15: 33. 13-14: 56ish. 12-13: 51. 11-12: 65. 10-11: 69. 09-10: 65.[/SIZE]</p>

  14. #1989
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    I fixed a slightly off hole on my wifes moments by placing a hard wood plug, epoxied in place, cut flush and then after it cured for a day redrilled and cannot even tell it was slightly off. Bomber screw hold.



    Quote Originally Posted by nyskirat View Post
    Edit: Mishap will be fixed with a shop's help. Not a big deal.

    Need more practice mounting for sure.

  15. #1990
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinord View Post
    From this old post:



    4. Draw a centerline on a piece of tape on the ski and (or scribe) on the center of two ends of the Jigarex frame.
    or add Centering Ruler Stickers on the ends and BSC:


    Edit to add:



    An alternative to drawing a center line:


    • use a combination square against the edge set to an arbitrary length, near the end of the Jigarex
    • make a mark from each edge
    • measure the distance between to find center of ski
    • double check alignment of the Jigarex
    Just picking nits here, but doesn't this method go out the window because of the whole 'visual perspective' aspect?

    If you are just visually aligning the jig's centerline to a centerline on the ski, your eye can only be as accurate as its own centerline accuracy...if you're a few MM left or right of center, the jig/ski centerlines could look perfect...but could be off by a multiple of the visual off-centered-ness (not a word)

    To guarantee it's dead-on you would need to have your eye (just one, two won't work) also dead-center above both.

    You'd need a self-centering loup to make this REALLY work!

  16. #1991
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    ^^^ agree eyeballing is not perfect machinist accurate but it works well enough to avoid two f#@k ups and a third mount like some are talking about

  17. #1992
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    I mounted my own fucking skis !


    all metal STH are really nice.

  18. #1993
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bubulefou View Post
    I mounted my own fucking skis !


    all metal STH are really nice.
    Monsters. Nice!
    I own the SD95s. I'll be curious to hear about those 105s after you get some time on them.

  19. #1994
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bubulefou View Post
    I mounted my own fucking skis !


    all metal STH are really nice.
    That's a pretty ski. Big boy ski for sure.

  20. #1995
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    Quote Originally Posted by N1CK. View Post
    Monsters. Nice!
    I own the SD95s. I'll be curious to hear about those 105s after you get some time on them.
    I hope to try them next week.
    They are not so beasty because they are light for the size, 2400g per ski, and quite soft.

  21. #1996
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    Quote Originally Posted by akokskis View Post
    Old boots are 320, new ones are 305. If i split the 15mm of difference (and am thinking about this right), that would leave me re-mounting 7.5mm inside of both sets current holes, and I'm under the impression that a full cm is the minimum amount of space between holes. That got me thinking that I could just remount either the toe or the heel a full cm (or more) from the previous holes, but... I'm just not totally sure.
    Sand down a wooden dowel to make a plug and fill old hole with epoxy. I’ve had to redrill less than .5cm distance from other holes using this approach with no problems.

  22. #1997
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcpnz View Post
    ^^^ agree eyeballing is not perfect machinist accurate but it works well enough to avoid two f#@k ups and a third mount like some are talking about
    Only problem with "eyeballing" is the graphics on the skis may not be lined up properly. My first mount with the JigaRex was my daughter in laws new Chams. All done, finished adjusting the bindings so I am enjoying a beer admiring my work looking at the skis leaning against the wall. The toe on one skis looks cock-eyed. First thought is I don't know how to use the JigaRex or its not such a slick deal after all. I get out my dial caliper and everything is perfect, mounted dead center. Still staring at the skis and it dawns on me its the graphics, Check it and sure enough the graphics on one skis are off just a bit.

  23. #1998
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    Quote Originally Posted by thefortrees View Post
    Sand down a wooden dowel to make a plug and fill old hole with epoxy. I’ve had to redrill less than .5cm distance from other holes using this approach with no problems.
    Are you sealing the end grain of the dowel?

  24. #1999
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuco View Post
    Are you sealing the end grain of the dowel?
    Yeah I fill the hole with epoxy, and top it off with epoxy then sand it down flush with the surface

  25. #2000
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    Even if it takes 10x as long, a reliable paper template is so much more precise.
    For the number of skis I mount these days, I think I'm done with jigs.

    Quote Originally Posted by jackattack View Post
    Classy AF

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