Mounting FKs on Sugars - the sequel

[kid4lyf]

In part one we figured out that yes, it can be done.

Part two is asking how to measure and mount bindings, period.
Yes, I searched.
Let me start by admitting I'm a complete newb at working on skis.
Stop.
Before the, "if you don't know that, you should have a shop do it," comments come out, let me say I am very mechanically knowledgable. I own a machine shop and have engineered and fabbed suspension systems for rock crawling jeeps.
That said, I know nothing about mounting bindings, but paying a shop $50 to do something like this...
Anyway, how do I figure out where to mount my bindings.
The SDs (older model with plate) have markings for center line, and boot length mounting (I assume these marks just apply to the Atomic bindings)
I've read about mounting the bindings + or - , again, I assume this mean + or - a dimension from center but don't really know.
I'm an intermediate to advanced skier who believes groomers are the devil.
I have a 315mm boot.

This somewhat long winded introduction is just a lead-in to ask:
1-Based on my skiing preferences and the characteristics of these skis, where should I mount the bindings (the aforementioned + or -)
2-How do I measure this? IOW, do I measure XXmm from the centerline to the front mounting hole? To the rear? To the boot contact area on the binding toe?
Please educate a jong.

[hemas]

As I'm lazy, I often just mount according to the boot center (though what I say has no to low value... I ski with free heels).

But when someone says, he mounted the skis +5cm, it means that he measured 5 (cm) towards the tip from the (alpine)boot center, and used the new line as his boot-center.

As where to drill the holes for the bindings, well you'll either need a jig or an paper/plastic template and work your way from their...

Now, I'll let some of the guys who mount alpines get to the real business...

[Below Zero]

Jesus, $50 to mount bindings? I've seen this number posted in other midwest and east coast threads. Is this typical for these areas?

[cpj.slc]

There is a mid sole mark on your boot and a corosponding(sp?) mid sole mark on your skis (the center line you spoke of). You put your boot in the binding jig, set the jig to your boot size (so the boot is cradled toe and heel by the metal or plastic tabs designed to cradle the boot) make sure the midsole line on your boot lines up with the midsole line on the jig. Lock the jig, take the boot out of the jig, place the jig so the midsole line on the jig is over the midsole line on the ski (with a SD I would just mount at the midsole, the ski is designed to ski poweder crud based on the midsole line). With an atomic ski you want a 3.1mm bit, drill the ski through the bit guards that corospond with your binding (most jigs have many hole patterns so put your binding on the jig and note which holes you want to use). Take the jig off the ski, put a drop of waterproof wood glue in each hole, put the bindings on, hand tighten screws in a cross pattern. If you don't have a jig you can use the paper templates, just be very sure to drill at a 90 degree angle the the ski. Hope this helps.

[kid4lyf]

There is a mid sole mark on your boot and a corosponding(sp?) mid sole mark on your skis (the center line you spoke of). You put your boot in the binding jig, set the jig to your boot size (so the boot is cradled toe and heel by the metal or plastic tabs designed to cradle the boot) make sure the midsole line on your boot lines up with the midsole line on the jig. Lock the jig, take the boot out of the jig, place the jig so the midsole line on the jig is over the midsole line on the ski (with a SD I would just mount at the midsole, the ski is designed to ski poweder crud based on the midsole line). With an atomic ski you want a 3.1mm bit, drill the ski through the bit guards that corospond with your binding (most jigs have many hole patterns so put your binding on the jig and note which holes you want to use). Take the jig off the ski, put a drop of waterproof wood glue in each hole, put the bindings on, hand tighten screws in a cross pattern. If you don't have a jig you can use the paper templates, just be very sure to drill at a 90 degree angle the the ski. Hope this helps.

Grande gracias.
Couple questions:
-No jig. Just line the toe piece & boot on the ski and mark?
-I'll be using the Rossi bindings & screws, should I still use a 3.1mm(1/8") bit?
-On this ski, would I be better off going forward or back if needed to miss existing holes? How far?

[cpj.slc]

Grande gracias.
Couple questions:
-No jig. Just line the toe piece & boot on the ski and mark?
-I'll be using the Rossi bindings & screws, should I still use a 3.1mm(1/8") bit?
-On this ski, would I be better off going forward or back if needed to miss existing holes? How far?

1) I really recommend finding a jig. If you can't, doing what you said would probably work, but just make sure the toe is straight and centered on the ski. I have been able to find maggots that have jigs just my posing a WTU:JIG in the gear swap forum.
2)The bit is determined by the ski, not the binding. 3.1 for non-metal plate ski and 4.something (I forget) for a ski with metal.
3)That is a personal preference. I like a lot a tip on a powder ski, so if it were me I would go back.

P.S. If you are going to free hand it, you may want to practice on a 2X4 first. Also the 3.1 bits have a guard so you won't drill through the ski. If you don't have the bit with a guard be very careful not to drill through your ski.

[PlayHarder]

P.S. If you are going to free hand it, you may want to practice on a 2X4 first.

I've used a 1x4 to test and made a jig that way. Measure and mark the center line on the board, lengthwise. Center and mount the toe, place the boot in to find the heel piece placement(just used the center of the adjustment track so I had a little margin of error). Once you've got the holes in the board, it's pretty quick to clamp it to the ski and drill.

[L7]

I like playharders advice or maybe some thinner piece of wood then a 2x4 would be easier. You are getting advice about the centre line on the ski but I'm not sure that ski has such a mark since (I think?) you are removing the plate. If they have no plate and have a boot centre mark then giddy up.

I'd use a 3.5mm bit. If you have to move slightly due to holes I would tend to go back or else go the way that allows the least movement. (1cm. min. between holes).

[Cirquerider]

I have made templates from clear acrylic (plexiglass) you can buy at the home improvement stores. The advantage is that the plexiglass can be cut to 3-inch x 20" strips then the binding placed and the holes marked. The screws will easily etch the plastic. You can drill the plexiglass and visually check the alignment through the clear plastic. Mark off centerline and mid-sole so you can align on the new ski. Plexiglass can also be used to transfer a hole pattern from a pair of skis you are removing bindings from and duplicate that pattern on a new pair. Just remove binding, clamp template, mark and drill holes, centerline and mid-sole mark. Double check alignment by placing binding on template to be sure holes line up. Then, clamp template on new ski and transfer the hole pattern. Its worth buying the 3.6 mm x 9mm bit for non-metal skis or 4.1 x 9 for metal.

[kid4lyf]

I like the clear plexiglass idea.

OK, toe placement figured out.
Now for the heel piece.
Just allow enough room for the boot to slide in or is there a specific distance (315mm boot) to use?
I'm assuming my DIN settings are affected by the tightness of this fit, right?

[XtrPickels]

I like the clear plexiglass idea.

OK, toe placement figured out.
Now for the heel piece.
Just allow enough room for the boot to slide in or is there a specific distance (315mm boot) to use?
I'm assuming my DIN settings are affected by the tightness of this fit, right?

There is a worm screw in the baseplate of the heel of your bindings. Set this in the middle of the range, Use that to approximate the mount on the plexiglass and then fine tune it with the screw. You'll get a shell size or so in both directions of absolute adjustability.

also: for the love of god, make sure you can click in/click out/adjust forward pressure to correct standard on the plexi before drilling any holes in your skis. Who cares if you screw up there. Its a learning process but have it nailed when you drill for real.

[kid4lyf]

There is a worm screw in the baseplate of the heel of your bindings. Set this in the middle of the range, Use that to approximate the mount on the plexiglass and then fine tune it with the screw. You'll get a shell size or so in both directions of absolute adjustability.

also: for the love of god, make sure you can click in/click out/adjust forward pressure to correct standard on the plexi before drilling any holes in your skis. Who cares if you screw up there. Its a learning process but have it nailed when you drill for real.

I'm not seeing any adj screw in the baseplate.
These are Rossi FK TT bindings. Four screws for mounting are all that's there.

[kid4lyf]

Nothing?





Nevermind, I found the info elsewhere.

[Aenigma]

Also, double-check your measurements from the tail of the ski. It's not uncommon for them to be marked as much as 2cm off on each ski.

[adampecush]

Nothing?





Nevermind, I found the info elsewhere.

i assume you found the adjusting screws (if you didn't, two per heel piece on the arms that connect the clamp of the binding to the base)?

[kid4lyf]

i assume you found the adjusting screws (if you didn't, two per heel piece on the arms that connect the clamp of the binding to the base)?

Yea, I got it,
Thanks, though.

Also, double-check your measurements from the tail of the ski. It's not uncommon for them to be marked as much as 2cm off on each ski.

I measure 31.25" (about 79.4cm) from the tail to the C/L.
Is this right?

To avoid hole conflict, I'll have to mount these just under 2cm back.
I've read Mntlion recommending this placement, anyway(That's right, a jong searched).
Other opinions?