Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[tuco]

EIFS specs 1/2" gaps @ all penetrations.
Here's a 1/2" caulk bead @ 240 months

Dirty, but no shrinkage or cracking

[Foggy_Goggles]

Do you remember what product? I kinda gave a short cut answer. Yes, there is shit that squirts out of a tube and will span a 1/2 gap and stand the test of time. Big Stretch and Log Jam for example.

Looks like somewhat did a good job on your crib.

[Djongo Unchained]

If I was gonna complicate things and require a laser straight cut line with minimal side distance, I'd get a mini circular saw and set up a straight edge beside my line and hold the little saw to that edge for a straight line. Getting any other power tool close enough to the raised hearth will be likely unpossible. A mini blade could get within an inch, maybe better.
Jockeying a toe cut saw vertically would be impressive.

I like Sashco stuff and find working with chinking and that stuff FoGo said, is pretty easy and it's durable. I use a brick tuck pointer trowel and a water spray bottle to finish the material smoothly.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

EIFS specs 1/2" gaps @ all penetrations.
Here's a 1/2" caulk bead @ 240 months

Dirty, but no shrinkage or cracking

LOL when do they do that? Fucking hacks never do that shit right.

[Foggy_Goggles]

LOL when do they do that? Fucking hacks never do that shit right.

True dat! Weren't most EIFS failures due to shit installation? Even the hard coat guys around here just stucco everything.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

True dat! Weren't most EIFS failures due to shit installation? Even the hard coat guys around here just stucco everything.

Did someone say shit installation? Properly installed EIFS is an exception around here.

[nickwm21]

In the commercial world we see [emoji637]”+ caulk joints all the time, sometimes even up to [emoji638]-[emoji639]”…

Sure a cheap tube from HD won’t span that. But a proper professional level product, backed correctly, prepped correctly, will last.


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[tuco]

Do you remember what product? I kinda gave a short cut answer. Yes, there is shit that squirts out of a tube and will span a 1/2 gap and stand the test of time. Big Stretch and Log Jam for example.

Looks like somewhat did a good job on your crib.

Actually, that's my Mom's house in CH.
Big Stretch is good. But for most critical exterior joints Quad or Quad Max will way outperform it.
Everything in those pictures was installed by my brother and myself in 2004.
Caulk was BASF MasterSeal NP1. But longevity starts with a well constructed joint

[tuco]

LOL when do they do that? Fucking hacks never do that shit right.

That's why sometimes ya just gotta do shit yerself

Actually, I work on multimillion dollar 'estates' on the regular. Shocking lack of true craftsmanship abounds even in this world

[::: :::]

wondering how that window weeps...

[Foggy_Goggles]

Do you use the Quad Max as backer then the NP1 over the top.

I'm a trim nerd. I just make the inside look pretty. Exterior details are not my stong point.

Box Cars...you refering to weep holes that drain the track? I usually only see those on sliders and the drain to the interior....or something else?

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

wondering how that window weeps...

Behind the rock veneer where it gets soaked up by the OSB sheeting.

[tuco]

Do you use the Quad Max as backer then the NP1 over the top.

I'm a trim nerd. I just make the inside look pretty. Exterior details are not my stong point.

Box Cars...you refering to weep holes that drain the track? I usually only see those on sliders and the drain to the interior....or something else?

No, that will create a 3-way bond. The result will be cracking because caulk is designed to stretch 2 dimensionally. Backer rod will break that 3 way bond and also force the caulk into better contact w/ the sides of the joint. We used backer rod.

That 1/2" gap on the EIFS enables the edge of the foam board to be base coated, which actually is the waterproofing coat

[::: :::]

Box Cars...you refering to weep holes that drain the track? I usually only see those on sliders and the drain to the interior....or something else?

not all windows have them, but most decent windows have a weep system
that's why we seal jambs & head but not sills typically

Behind the rock veneer where it gets soaked up by the OSB sheeting.

it's possible they drain to the cavity & stay in front of the WRB; or that these just don't have weeps

That 1/2" gap on the EIFS enables the edge of the foam board to be base coated, which actually is the waterproofing coat

there it is
hopefully no cavities where the two casements mull together

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

it's possible they drain to the cavity & stay in front of the WRB; or that these just don't have weeps

What WRB?? Refer to picture 2 above. Whole front of the house is going to get peeled.

[tuco]

What WRB?? Refer to picture 2 above. Whole front of the house is going to get peeled.

There should be a weep and a drip edge @ that transition

[bagtagley]

Kitchen cabinet doors are getting a little worn. Pictured is the worst of them, the effects of a decade above an electric teakettle.

Any tricks for sanding other than using a block to keep things flat? I’ve never loved the results of brushed/rolled poly and don’t have a sprayer. Any experience with spray cans of polyurethane? At ten bucks a can seems like a cheap experiment unless it’s total garbage.

[nickwm21]

The cheap airless sprayers on Amazon actually work really well…


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[bagtagley]

[emoji637];[emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji639]][emoji637][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji638][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji639]]The cheap airless sprayers on Amazon actually work really well…


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You mean like a Wagner-style, HVLP gun?

[Skistack]

Ordering engineered hardwood flooring for the second floor (same as what's on the first floor).

Thoughts on stapling vs. nailing?

[Foggy_Goggles]

Use the spec'd fastener. Usually engineered is a narrow crown stapler. Use a gun like this https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-HPT-Pn...435181218&th=1

[Core Shot]

You mean like a Wagner-style, HVLP gun?

Negative. Get an airless. Cordless need two batteries (can’t get caught mid job). The graco is the bomb. But for one job the cheap Amazon should work.
There are corded versions harbor freight has one for $69

Get the clean and lube fluid for after the job otherwise it rusts inside. Pump armor.

Degrease!
Sanding block (unless you’re going to bare wood, then use orbital first)
Stain as needed
Airless spray. 220scuff between coats.

Easy job if you can lay them all out in a warm garage.

[jm2e]

Go with the grain.


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[old goat]

I've been getting good results with Minwax wipe on poly on my furniture. The coats are very thin so a lot of coats needed. For a job that big I'd be tempted to spray but I have no personal experience.

[XXX-er]

In the commercial world we see [emoji637]”+ caulk joints all the time, sometimes even up to [emoji638]-[emoji639]”…

Sure a cheap tube from HD won’t span that. But a proper professional level product, backed correctly, prepped correctly, will last.


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my neighbor did his 100+ yr old log house with Perma-Chink which does not seem like a very culturaly appropriate name for a productbut buddy did some very wide joints,

as for prep he just went right over the moss that had been stuffed between the logs 100yrs ago








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