Home Remodel: Do, Don'ts, Advice

[Mazderati]

^ This guy knows what's up.

@ticket, I'm two towns up now.

[XXX-er]

My buddy the electrician sez roughing in the services and hiding it behind the DW to be common practise if a basement is going to be an illegal suite




he has heard the inspecotor mutter You don't fool me know I what you guys are doing but i can not fail what I can not see so pass

[dan_pdx]

Where the fuck is the water coming into my basement from? Near the corner of the house, the outside is cement driveway and graded away. The one questionable spot has a drainage channel that I cleaned out recently and it's diverting runoff away from the house as designed. It's a big WTFF. we only get a cup or two on a rainy day and it's an unfinished basement so NBD, but it's pissing me off

[mattig]

Where the fuck is the water coming into my basement from? Near the corner of the house, the outside is cement driveway and graded away. The one questionable spot has a drainage channel that I cleaned out recently and it's diverting runoff away from the house as designed. It's a big WTFF. we only get a cup or two on a rainy day and it's an unfinished basement so NBD, but it's pissing me off

Tell us more about the "questionable spot" and the nature of the drainage channel. Assuming the indoor basement wall is dry, as well as the ceiling, and that there's no obvious path to trace the water back to?
Next dry day, get the hose out and see if you can duplicate it simply by spraying water at ground level. If this happens right after it rains, and stops when the rain stops, then it decreases the chance that it's hydrostatic/underground. If that's the case, I'd start looking for points of ingress above grade (roof, walls, penetrations of any kind). It could be fairly far away from where the water actually collects, or immediately overhead. A thermal camera could be a useful invesigatory aid. You could borrow mine next time you're out toward Hillsboro.

[californiagrown]

Is youre groundwater high? You might have a perched groundwater situation where an impermeable layer of soil is 5' down and so surface water infiltrates down and then flows sideways ontop of that layer getting trapped up against your basement wall. My $0.02 would be to auger/dig a hole near your leak, to below slab. Cover with a board and see if/when it fills with water. If it fills with water, you got a groundwater issue. McGuyver solution would be to dig the hole a little deeper, drop a couple inches of gravel in, drop a home depot bucket (w/ lid) into the hole that has holes drilled in the bottom. Surroung the bucket with more gravel. Get yourself a shitty $50 sump pump from harbor freight and either rig a float system, or just manually flip it during storms.

[liv2ski]

$150 a foot to reline our main line? Really?

Sent from my moto g stylus 5G (2022) using Tapatalk

[XXX-er]

$150 a foot to reline our main line? Really?



well if you havent noticed in my 33211 posts I am a money grubbing bastard SO back when BIL was marketing pipe genie HOW MUCH was the first thing I asked him





he said probably about the same $$$$ as if you had to get it all dug up but you wouldnt have to deal with the dug up bits





there is a testimonial where the line in a Walmart or SFT got replaced so how much would that have cost eh

[XXX-er]

Where the fuck is the water coming into my basement from? Near the corner of the house, the outside is cement driveway and graded away. The one questionable spot has a drainage channel that I cleaned out recently and it's diverting runoff away from the house as designed. It's a big WTFF. we only get a cup or two on a rainy day and it's an unfinished basement so NBD, but it's pissing me off




gotta ask do you have drain tile my town was built on a swamp becuz it was the cheapest/ bestplace for someones BIL to buy cheap land which could then be sold for a huge profit to the CN railway when Canada was being built so most houses have drian tile and a sump pump some have 2 sump pumps and its what made Canada great

[californiagrown]

$150 a foot to reline our main line? Really? well if you havent noticed in my 33211 posts I am a money grubbing bastard SO back when BIL was marketing pipe genie HOW MUCH was the first thing I asked him he said probably about the same $$$$ as if you had to get it all dug up but you wouldnt have to deal with the dug up bits there is a testimonial where the line in a Walmart or SFT got replaced so how much would that have cost eh

IME it is always much cheaper to just trench and replace the pipe. the only reason we go with pipe bursting is when trenching is infeasible for some reason (pipe runs under a street with a moratorium on cuts, or trenching would kill some "heritage trees", etc). Slip lining wont solve your root/tree issues, itll return... but if you open trench, you can reroute the sewer away from roots, and/or cut the roots way back and is a much longer term fix.

If you dont have anything preventing or making an open trench a huge PITA, there is not reason to slipline or pipe burst, IMO.

[californiagrown]

^is my expert opinion only knowing 20% of the important facts of the case.

[XXX-er]

well exactly think about digging up a walmart & P-lot or a road of how about if the place has nice gardens/ driveways yadafuckingyada ect which underlines get the quotes


my house for instance has an easment where the line goes under my house from the old POS next door which was 3 shacks pushed/ bolted togetehr back in the day

[liv2ski]

CG, you really think doing the pipe relining is not going to keep my neighbors magnolia tree roots from growing back into my line? The roots that grow in are very small, a little thicker than the hair on your head.
My main goes through my neighbor's side yard, so trenching it all out really is not very practical unless as the only choice.

Sent from my moto g stylus 5G (2022) using Tapatalk

[nickwm21]

$[emoji637][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]]]/ft sounds right.

Lining will not fix a big tap root from displacing your pipe but it should prevent the little root infestation clog situation you allude too…

IME - Price is about equal relining vs open cut (if you ignore the costs of redoing whatever flatwork and landscape is fucked by the open cut)


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[skaredshtles]

You could always do the main re-lining yourself.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

Install a cleanout in the yard and schedule a roto rooter every year.

[liv2ski]

I have been doing the line myself every 4 months to try and avoid issues for the last 5+ years. It is getting old as am I.

[liv2ski]

"You could always do the main re-lining yourself".

I have skilz, but I am uncertain I am up to that job.

[XXX-er]

Is youre groundwater high? You might have a perched groundwater situation where an impermeable layer of soil is 5' down and so surface water infiltrates down and then flows sideways ontop of that layer getting trapped up against your basement wall. My $0.02 would be to auger/dig a hole near your leak, to below slab. Cover with a board and see if/when it fills with water. If it fills with water, you got a groundwater issue. McGuyver solution would be to dig the hole a little deeper, drop a couple inches of gravel in, drop a home depot bucket (w/ lid) into the hole that has holes drilled in the bottom. Surroung the bucket with more gravel. Get yourself a shitty $50 sump pump from harbor freight and either rig a float system, or just manually flip it during storms.




Been there done that, a few years back we had snow oct 31st ground was saturated roofs had snow temp went up everything melted to raise the water table in what is basicly a swamp so a once in a bunch of years event tennant texts that water is coming in there was a hole for a sump pump but had been pulled out and not replaced,




the only thing I could do is use the shop vacum so every 15 min all night long to kept it at bay, probably 50 shop vacs full of water since I was up all night any way I went to the building supply bought the last sump pump and then rented the last portable pump in town it was amazing how fast a sump pump will empty the drain tiles, I gave the rented pump to my neighbor across the street who had 6" of water in his basement, basements all over were flooded but no damage for me with that shop vac so I dodged a bullet on that sump pump fiasco, note that the old pumps had a metal impeller so what happens it sits in water and the metal impeller rusts off. and you got no sump pump





On another situ I walked into a house after a away week skiing where i could hear the sump pump motor but the impeller was rusted off so no pumping and there was flooding a new pump will have a plastic impeller so no rusting the sump pum could have been running for a week ... something worth updating

[skaredshtles]

I have skilz, but I am uncertain I am up to that job.

Sounds like $150/ft is a reasonable price, then.

[XXX-er]

Either a back hoe is rented OR that trench job is the job given to the plumbers helper

[civilcoconut]

IME it is always much cheaper to just trench and replace the pipe. the only reason we go with pipe bursting is when trenching is infeasible for some reason (pipe runs under a street with a moratorium on cuts, or trenching would kill some "heritage trees", etc). Slip lining wont solve your root/tree issues, itll return... but if you open trench, you can reroute the sewer away from roots, and/or cut the roots way back and is a much longer term fix. If you dont have anything preventing or making an open trench a huge PITA, there is not reason to slipline or pipe burst, IMO.

Seriously? We had a whole program at the last municipality I worked at that did CIPP sewer lining and manhole lining to address groundwater infiltration. Open cut wasn't even close to competitive with the costs due to traffic control, paving back, flatwork, etc.

Yeah, the pipe ex. and install might be cheaper as a line item, but as a whole was not economical compared to CIPP.

[californiagrown]

CG, you really think doing the pipe relining is not going to keep my neighbors magnolia tree roots from growing back into my line? The roots that grow in are very small, a little thicker than the hair on your head. My main goes through my neighbor's side yard, so trenching it all out really is not very practical unless as the only choice. Sent from my moto g stylus 5G (2022) using Tapatalk

If you plan on keeping the property long term, i would suggest open trench, see what the actual root situation looks like around your pipe and then either re-route it, or significantly cut back the roots. If you dont plan on keeping the property long term, go with whatever is cheaper/easier which just may be sliplining... and you could get lucky and have the sliplining solve all your problems long term. Remeber that you only need to trench and replace pipe in the area of root issues, not the whole line.

[californiagrown]

Seriously? We had a whole program at the last municipality I worked at that did CIPP sewer lining and manhole lining to address groundwater infiltration. Open cut wasn't even close to competitive with the costs due to traffic control, paving back, flatwork, etc. Yeah, the pipe ex. and install might be cheaper as a line item, but as a whole was not economical compared to CIPP.

Im on the private side. But even when working on public-private jobs we generally would just time the trench and main replacement with the other ROW work done under the same CIP project (roadway widening, sidewalk widening, util capacity upgrades, etc). typically night work, plated during the day. Especially when doing fully private work, its open trench in the ROW as we have to open trench other utilities into the street which then triggers a grind/overlay so we say fuckit and open trench it all.

Every project is a little different, as is every jurisdiction.

[civilcoconut]

Im on the private side. But even when working on public-private jobs we generally would just time the trench and main replacement with the other ROW work done under the same CIP project (roadway widening, sidewalk widening, util capacity upgrades, etc). typically night work, plated during the day. Especially when doing fully private work, its open trench in the ROW as we have to open trench other utilities into the street which then triggers a grind/overlay so we say fuckit and open trench it all. Every project is a little different, as is every jurisdiction.

Ah, this makes more sense. We would do the same if we were doing other work like that. Liv2ski- get a quote for conventional trench and replace versus CIPP. If you are responsible all the way to the main line a tench and replace can get really expensive if you want to replace the entire thing because you can get into paying for pavement, sidewalk etc. You should also get it video'd if you can so you can determine in advance how much needs to be lined or replaced. Last time I bought a house RotoRooter did one for me a and sent me the video for a couple hundred dollars.

You also might want to inquire with the sewer district or city about who is responsible for this issue. Some municipalities are responsible to the clean out at the house, some are to the ROW and some the homeowner is responsible all the way to the mainline. Best case is they are responsible to the cleanout on your house and this doesn't cost you a dime. It's not common though.

[ticketchecker]

@ticket, I'm two towns up now.[/QUOTE]

I’d go the temp sink route if need be and let the let the pros do their thing on a schedule that you can both agree on. I’ve got six units on Munjoy Hill and I would never do any finish work before the walls are ready to be closed up, that’s asking for trouble IMHO.

Timelines can be hard.

Sent from the Utility Muffin Research Kitchen