when i called Rossi, CS told me they don't have an AFD to fit old non-GW/WTR 14s
terry offered this experiment too: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...61#post6988061 & https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...61#post6988061 & https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...-Vs-WTR-Pivots
close but maybe not quite there...
Bought a pair of the super cheep STP Faction Mana 4's. Installed some super cheep asogear black attack 13's for the murdered out look.
I want to see if these can act as some dollar store Noctas. Dimensions are similar, flat camber instead of the Nocta's reverse, but things look pretty close. We'll see.
![]()
I briefly looked at the normal sources for binding templates and didnt see any for solly/atomic junior bindings? Am i just blatantly missing something here?
Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
SlideWright.com
Ski, Snowboard & Tools, Wax and Wares
Repair, Waxing, Tuning, Mounting Tips & more
Add TGR handle to notes & paste 5% TGR Discount code during checkout: 1121TGR
They are fun.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
swing your fucking sword.
swing your fucking sword.
The 188s are really fun, the 193s are full turbo mode
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
HEAT
you can probably get purchase on that screw but i was gona point out you got the other 3 screws out so rotate the whole binding as you rotate that screw when you figure that out
heating that screw up will probably make it easier to get out at this point and maybe that piece of driver will move
also for any camper reading this its not always apparent before you strip a screw or break a driver
but some heat would have been good BEFORE this happened and I have done that even tho i knew better
so as soon as you got the slightest inkling something is stuck
HEAT
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Do you have a Dremel? You can use a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the top of that screw, so you can remove it with a large flat blade screw driver. Use a soldering iron to heat the screw for 30-60 seconds before trying to turn it at all. If it's not coming loose, keep heating it in 30 second increments until it does. If you accidentally cut your crampon adaptor a little I think that's a pretty cheap replacement from skimo.co
Try 20 or 30 seconds, stop when you see the plastic shim smoking, some Irons are only 25W which is enough to do wiring but this job it needs a 75-100W soldering iron
If you don't have a soldering iron put a 1/4" drill bit in your drill BACKWARDS and run the shank against the screw head at high speed
the friction will generate heat
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I think you mean cobalt.
I've had driver tips break off like this before, they seem pretty locked in there but pop out sometimes with little effort. Some heat or cold is where I would start first, with a dental pick to work at it. After that, drill it out with a cobalt drill bit.
Bookmarks