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Thread: PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

  1. #6751
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    Jun 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    somehow i wasn't finding the pricing i wanted...so, it's Attacks
    You just swap the AFDs and get the longer screws. Like $30 max.
    Or are we missing something?

  2. #6752
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    somehow i wasn't finding the pricing i wanted...so, it's Attacks
    AFDs are like $20…


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #6753
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by PeachesNCream View Post
    AFDs are like $20…
    when i called Rossi, CS told me they don't have an AFD to fit old non-GW/WTR 14s

    terry offered this experiment too: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...61#post6988061 & https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...61#post6988061 & https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...-Vs-WTR-Pivots

    close but maybe not quite there...

  4. #6754
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    Quote Originally Posted by ::: ::: View Post
    when i called Rossi, CS told me they don't have an AFD to fit old non-GW/WTR 14s

    terry offered this experiment too: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...61#post6988061 & https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...61#post6988061 & https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...-Vs-WTR-Pivots

    close but maybe not quite there...
    Ah okay, as long as you’ve gone through that exercise, that makes sense. I have some orange fks pivots that were able to be converted, but beyond that, I don’t know a whole lot.


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  5. #6755
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Bought a pair of the super cheep STP Faction Mana 4's. Installed some super cheep asogear black attack 13's for the murdered out look.

    I want to see if these can act as some dollar store Noctas. Dimensions are similar, flat camber instead of the Nocta's reverse, but things look pretty close. We'll see.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #6756
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    11,362
    Mounted up these pieces of shit last night, they look fun.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #6757
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    5,078
    I briefly looked at the normal sources for binding templates and didnt see any for solly/atomic junior bindings? Am i just blatantly missing something here?

  8. #6758
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    Jan 2023
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Bit tip broke off in the screw. Any suggestions for removal? Can't get a drill bit tip to penetrate.

  9. #6759
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    Oct 2008
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    On another tangent.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sklimber View Post
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    Bit tip broke off in the screw. Any suggestions for removal? Can't get a drill bit tip to penetrate.
    Can you drill a small diameter hole and get a screw into the metal?
    Best regards, Terry
    (Direct Contact is best vs PMs)

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  10. #6760
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK47bp View Post
    Mounted up these pieces of shit last night, they look fun.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    They are fun.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  11. #6761
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    Aug 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sklimber View Post
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    Bit tip broke off in the screw. Any suggestions for removal? Can't get a drill bit tip to penetrate.
    bit is good and hardened so getting a hole in there will be tough without a true carbide bit. i'd go that route. if not, got a welder? broken bit is probably too small to tack to without the screw getting involved but you could tack to both and work the screw out.
    swing your fucking sword.

  12. #6762
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    Mar 2023
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealurface831 View Post
    tack to both and work the screw out.
    This is the way

  13. #6763
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwoovre View Post
    This is the way
    i would caution and clarify, it is the alternative. a good carbide bit should bust right through the breakage but the welder is a sure bet. however, if you fuck up with the welder, you got your work cut out for you in precision dremeling and filing.
    swing your fucking sword.

  14. #6764
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    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    They are fun.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Agree. Picked them up for $75, they are pretty beat to shit and a little short for me but had a blast slashing around Alpental last night.

  15. #6765
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    Oct 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK47bp View Post
    Agree. Picked them up for $75, they are pretty beat to shit and a little short for me but had a blast slashing around Alpental last night.
    The 188s are really fun, the 193s are full turbo mode


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  16. #6766
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sklimber View Post
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    Bit tip broke off in the screw. Any suggestions for removal? Can't get a drill bit tip to penetrate.
    HEAT

    you can probably get purchase on that screw but i was gona point out you got the other 3 screws out so rotate the whole binding as you rotate that screw when you figure that out

    heating that screw up will probably make it easier to get out at this point and maybe that piece of driver will move

    also for any camper reading this its not always apparent before you strip a screw or break a driver
    but some heat would have been good BEFORE this happened and I have done that even tho i knew better

    so as soon as you got the slightest inkling something is stuck

    HEAT
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #6767
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealurface831 View Post
    bit is good and hardened so getting a hole in there will be tough without a true carbide bit. i'd go that route. if not, got a welder? broken bit is probably too small to tack to without the screw getting involved but you could tack to both and work the screw out.
    No welder. I can borrow a soldering iron. Any ideas there?

    I will get a proper carbide bit and see if that works.

  18. #6768
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sklimber View Post
    No welder. I can borrow a soldering iron. Any ideas there?

    I will get a proper carbide bit and see if that works.
    carbide should get it done.
    swing your fucking sword.

  19. #6769
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    Feb 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    The 188s are really fun, the 193s are full turbo mode


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    I was getting some chatter trying to charge on the 183’s but could definitely see the big boys being more stable.

  20. #6770
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    HEAT

    you can probably get purchase on that screw but i was gona point out you got the other 3 screws out so rotate the whole binding as you rotate that screw when you figure that out

    heating that screw up will probably make it easier to get out at this point and maybe that piece of driver will move

    also for any camper reading this its not always apparent before you strip a screw or break a driver
    but some heat would have been good BEFORE this happened and I have done that even tho i knew better

    so as soon as you got the slightest inkling something is stuck

    HEAT
    How much heat are we talking? I don't want to melt the plastic on the binding

  21. #6771
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sklimber View Post
    How much heat are we talking? I don't want to melt the plastic on the binding
    might be where that soldering iron comes in. good way to keep the heat localized. if that doesn't work i'd just wait til the morning and get carbide and left hand bits.
    swing your fucking sword.

  22. #6772
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    Do you have a Dremel? You can use a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the top of that screw, so you can remove it with a large flat blade screw driver. Use a soldering iron to heat the screw for 30-60 seconds before trying to turn it at all. If it's not coming loose, keep heating it in 30 second increments until it does. If you accidentally cut your crampon adaptor a little I think that's a pretty cheap replacement from skimo.co

  23. #6773
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    Try 20 or 30 seconds, stop when you see the plastic shim smoking, some Irons are only 25W which is enough to do wiring but this job it needs a 75-100W soldering iron

    If you don't have a soldering iron put a 1/4" drill bit in your drill BACKWARDS and run the shank against the screw head at high speed

    the friction will generate heat
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #6774
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealurface831 View Post
    might be where that soldering iron comes in. good way to keep the heat localized. if that doesn't work i'd just wait til the morning and get carbide and left hand bits.
    This X10. Put a soldering iron on that screw head and try heating that way, before any of the other suggestions here like drilling or Dremeling a slot.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  25. #6775
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    Quote Originally Posted by stealurface831 View Post
    carbide should get it done.
    I think you mean cobalt.

    I've had driver tips break off like this before, they seem pretty locked in there but pop out sometimes with little effort. Some heat or cold is where I would start first, with a dental pick to work at it. After that, drill it out with a cobalt drill bit.

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