Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident
Can anyone provide a little guidance on what part number for a basic seal kit for a 2022 Rockshox Sid lux select+ rear shock? Holy shit, a dizzying amount of kits out there! Maybe my wording is off in my Google search…
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I'm guessing if its like Fox you can search for part numbers directly via the fork serial number on the SRAM website?
https://trailhead.rockshox.com/en/product/search/serial
They’ve been closing down free camping in an expanding perimeter from Moab for 25 years. The perimeter expands, then the turd blossoms bloom and the redneck crop circles emerge outside of that location again.
After the money we all spend on the gear and the travel to get to Moab and do the things, the expectation of free camping there that could possibly be sustainable in that fragile environment with the millions of people who visit the area yearly is hilarious. Pony up the $15 bucks a night and enjoy all the sweet trails they’ve built for you to enjoy. If you’re looking for true solitude in your camping experience, an area with approx 3mm + visitors a year might not be the ticket. If you can’t swing the $15 for a night of camping….riding a bike in Moab might not be the best idea either.
Phish, this isn’t aimed at you, it’s just a general reaction to the annual emergence of this topic.
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Fuck ya!! Thank you, got it!
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Ask the experts! I bet even non-experts can answer this, but I'm a tubeless newb, current bike is my first bike with them (and I'm bike-clueless in general). I had a mechanic do a tune and maintenance last spring, but barely rode my bike last year for a whole host of reasons, so don't feel like I need to pay for a tune this year. Tires are still holding air.
I assume I need to load them up with some Stan's? I do know that is the current sealant in there. Anything special I need to know?
I bought this "injector" and a 16oz bottle of Stan's.
Stan's says use 4 oz for my tires (29 x 2.3). The process looks pretty simple but figured I'd ask here for tips or things I don't know/realize.
"fuck off you asshat gaper shit for brains fucktard wanker." - Jesus Christ
"She was tossing her bean salad with the vigor of a Drunken Pop princess so I walked out of the corner and said.... "need a hand?"" - Odin
"everybody's got their hooks into you, fuck em....forge on motherfuckers, drag all those bitches across the goal line with you." - (not so) ill-advised strategy
New Fox dampers are out. Experts: should I throw my Performance Elite 36 with Grip2 directly in the trash, or saw it in half first to make sure nobody attempts to ride that horribly outdated piece of crap?
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I don't do anything, I just check to see how the tires are holding air and when I change to the new rubber pretty soon I will reuse whatever stans fluid is still liquid and there is always some still left in the tire at an indoor temp over winter
I wonder does the stan's completely dry out in a hot dry place ?
Last edited by XXX-er; 04-09-2024 at 11:09 AM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
you gotta figure a guy named NuMexJoe would know this ^^ about the heat but it only gets cold up here, their site sez Stan's is good down to -30 C but I'm also concerned about the rest of the bike so I bring it in
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Nuke from orbit. Behead reamins (if any).
I take the wheels of, hold verically, shake back and forth and listen for any liquid sloshing in the bottom. If none, top off with at least a coupe ounces. Not a bad ideal to remove tire once/year if your tires last that long, remove Stanimals.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, flying through the air
My house is at 8640' it sure as hell dries out fast.
When I lived in Whistler the rubber on the tire would wear out before the Stans dried out, but here in the high country Colorado 4oz of Stans needs topping up every 3 months, and if its left over 5 months the tire will be bone dry inside when removed from the rim. Not just low, but dry to the touch, and not even a STANimal.
Also a small zip tie is a good dip stick, I pull the valve core, rotate the wheel with the valve at the bottom, stick a zip tie in the stem, and the little groves in the zip tie hold the Stans and indicate how much liquid is left.
The grip2 hate is kind of surprising to be honest. Thought they were generally pretty well regarded? What gives?
Is the new damper really gunna be the shiz? If so, that would have been good to know since I just dropped off my 38 grip2 for a full rebuild 3 weeks ago...
Torque wrench. Do you back out to lowest setting to save the spring? And does it even matter...depends on the spring, right? What do shop guys do? And do they ever test their torque wrenches?
Funny that I guy I know is an engineer for a company that manufacturers springs amongst other things. I asked him way back if it was necessary to back out the DIN on a ski binding over the summer to save the spring. He said, it depends, show me the spring. I never did, so I still don't know.
My understanding was that backing out DIN was more to save the plastic in the binding. The spring itself will be fine. But I dunno. I never back out my DIN and have never had a problem.
I do back out torque wrenches though. Not sure why, but unlike DIN, I'm setting it's value every time I use it, so it doesn't seem like a big deal to back it out.
I've read that leaving it stored at a given setting for a long time can "set" the wrench a bit so it's less accurate at torque values close to where it was left. But if you're using the wrench often, that wouldn't be an issue.
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