Ask the experts

[Roxtar]

Thanks guys - I'll rebuild it.

Follow up question, as I root through my parts bin: I happen to have a new SRAM X7 front derailleur that is labeled 2x10. The old rusty derailleur is a X5, no marking as to 2X or 3X, but visually appears to be the same. Will the 2x10 derailleur work on a triple crank?

I believe it will work. The shifter determines what the F Der does.

[El Chupacabra]

Thanks - I'll give it a try. Wasn't sure if there were range stops of some sort built into the front derailleur - something more limiting than the set screws.

My parts bin delivered on a bottom bracket. NOS Shimano UN-72, in the correct size.

[toast2266]

Thanks - I'll give it a try. Wasn't sure if there were range stops of some sort built into the front derailleur - something more limiting than the set screws.

There shouldn't be an issue with range of travel, but the cage on 2x FD's are often shaped a little different than 3x FD's. Using a 2x on a 3x system (or vice-versa) often meant you'd get basic functionality but the shifting would maybe not be as good as it could be, and (in the case of using a 2x on a 3x) you might be tight on clearance in the small chainring.

[El Chupacabra]

There shouldn't be an issue with range of travel, but the cage on 2x FD's are often shaped a little different than 3x FD's. Using a 2x on a 3x system (or vice-versa) often meant you'd get basic functionality but the shifting would maybe not be as good as it could be, and (in the case of using a 2x on a 3x) you might be tight on clearance in the small chainring.

Thanks - for this project, if it works at all, that's all I need! The crankset is a FSA Vero, some low end road triple.

So far, nothing has been so stuck I couldn't remove it. Bottom bracket came out, cassette came off the freehub (which ratchets normally), disc rotors came off the hubs, pedals came off the crank arms.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Shimano full suspension is 5 or 6 links, depending on first link being inner or outer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyC-zL1rNJU

So I take this as a starting point and then remove links as needed?

Edit: Found my old post with this video. Was the method I used before.

https://youtu.be/_V83_bMeHgQ?si=mrgdnwDSIZuhU9v9

[zion zig zag]

Anyone know what size SWAT pouch for a Stumpy EVO, size S4?


Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

[grskier]

Anyone know what size SWAT pouch for a Stumpy EVO, size S4?


Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

I think you’ll find the answer here to be Fuck Specialized. lol sorry, I have nothing constructive to add


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[helldriven]

I have an Size S3 Evo and it came with the Large Pouch (27 x 4.8 x 5.3)

[zion zig zag]

I have an Size S3 Evo and it came with the Large Pouch (27 x 4.8 x 5.3)

Awesome, thanks!

[zion zig zag]

I think you’ll find the answer here to be Fuck Specialized. lol sorry, I have nothing constructive to add


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Ha, definitely.

[Jtlange]

I've done this before and can't find the deets. Buried in this thread somewhere: Sramano AXS setup chain length? Differing opinions online between sram length guide and shimano length guide.

I have found success by setting up chain length by just eliminating slop in the smallest gear and going with that. Basically, you just dont want slack in the smallest gear, It has been very bomber for me.

[MCS5280]

Question about prioritizing chainline vs how centered your cranks are on the frame for a 1x drivetrain..
I'm installing some Raceface Aeffect cranks with a 6mm offset chainring on a new gravel frame with 142 rear spacing. The Raceface instructions for these cranks are extremely vague. I've been adjusting the spindle spacers that came with the BB to get the chainline somewhat correct. Its currently measuring 50.5 mm, but the cranks are now biased 3mm to the non-drive side. Is having a side to side bias for the cranks bad? Should i keep messing with spacers until i get 49-50mm chainline?

[Spencer123]

Someone probably has more specific experience with your cranks, but I had a similar situation this past summer and the advice from the forum and from SRAM was center the cranks normally and accept the chain line once you’ve brought it in as much as you can with the chainring. For reference, with a chain line that was 3 mm more outboard than recommended, my only issue was back pedaling and ratcheting in the easiest gear would make the chain jump off, otherwise it wasn’t a super big issue.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

God damn she's a beaut and holy shit the ohlins feels smooth on parking lot test. Shoulder be damned I gotta go ride this thing somewhere.

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

[Falcon3]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

[toast2266]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

I've had better luck with the wheelsmith stuff than boiled linseed oil.

[Andeh]

I've got a pair of Super Deluxe shocks that I want to move a couple things between the 2 so I can keep the better one and sell the not so nice one on a bike (an Ultimate with Specialized tune & regular eyelets, a Select+ with Santa Cruz tune & lower eyelet bearing). I've read the service manual and the process for doing a 200 hr service (and swapping lower damper bodies & damper assemblies) doesn't look too bad if I get the right tools and take my time. Am I being over confident in my ability to do the bleed process? I've worked on forks before, but never done more than changing volume tokens on shocks.

Edit: the main reason I'm interested in doing it myself rather than paying the local suspension guy is a) he's terrible at responding although he does good work, and b) I'm curious to try it myself, and c) I'm guessing I'd have to pay like $350 since it's like servicing 2 shocks and I can do this for like $100 of tools I don't already own.

[Dee Hubbs]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

PTFE Pipe Thread Sealant from Home Depot I the plumbing aisle.
or
FIX from Wheel Fanatyk:
https://wheelfanatyk.com/collections...g/products/fix

[whyturn]

Chainring size for 10-52 GX? Seem to be hunting for a gear sometimes with current 32T


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[beaterdit]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

Wheelsmith Spoke Prep for me. Not too expensive and last many wheel builds. Generally get two colors to keep your L and R side spokes straight.

DeeHubs suggestions are not to be lightly dismissed though.

Chainring size for 10-52 GX? Seem to be hunting for a gear sometimes with current 32T


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

I run a 30t with 10-50. The jump from 42 to 52 just sucks to me, way worse than 42-50 though that's huge too. Plus 500% range is is plenty.

[sfotex]

Has anyone tried Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate on spokes? I've used it in some other applications and
its interesting because it stays flexible when it dries vs. curing hard like loctite.

https://www.vibra-tite.com/threadloc...-3-threadmate/

[Dee Hubbs]

DeeHubs suggestions are not to be lightly dismissed though.

I mostly build with DT Pro Lock nipples, so I don't use the thread dope all that often. When building with WAO rims I use the recommend Sapim Polyax nipples with the Secure Lock system.
I think the mechanical lock system of the Sapim is far superior, and allows you to mass lube the nipples before building. Technically with the DT Pro Lock they don't want you to introduce any lube on their Pro Lock solution, thus you have to spot lube the nipple shoulder/rim interface after initial lacing.
I have multiple tools set up for DT Squorx nipples, and have access to purchase DT products at a better price, thus why I use them more.
I'd like to get a bulk buy of 1000+ Sapim nipples and I'll invest in a few more double square tools.
But I'm happy with the DT nipples for now.

[Roxtar]

Best spoke prep for MTB wheels?

I routinely detension my wheels, and I"m sick of it. I'm building a new 32H wheelset with WAO rims on DT350 hubs and would like to start out on the right foot. I've used light oil and silicon grease before on builds and they always de-tension themselves. I'm leery of Loctite blue but would use it if it makes a substantial difference, otherwise Wheelsmith Spoke Prep or boiled linseed oil have a cult following.

The only wheels that i'd use the linseed oil on are I9 system wheels due to the aluminum spokes requiring lube to not lock to the aluminum hubs.
I've used Wheelsmith Spoke Prep with reasonable success. Just put a light coating because otherwise it can flake off when you thread on the nipples.
I recently tried the Stans PTFE powder and was pretty happy with it. The teflon properties lubed for the initial build but then the tiny solid particles keep things locked together when fully tightened.

[jm2e]

PTFE Pipe Thread Sealant from Home Depot I the plumbing aisle.
or
FIX from Wheel Fanatyk:
https://wheelfanatyk.com/collections...g/products/fix

Noted.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[XXX-er]

Real spoke prep seems kind of expensive BUT think about how much time you put into building and or retensioning a wheel and then get the real spoke prep

I duno what they use on the wheels SC and yeti spec'd but I havent had to re-tension a wheel in 5 yrs and i do regularly check