I've got a couple brake questions. I'm running Dominion A4s on both my enduro bike and ebike, both recently got Galfer Shark 203s front/rear. The enduro bike has been running the Hayes organic pads (black/106), plenty of power, nice and quiet even when wet. The ebike has been running the metallic (copper/100) pads which were fine in the summer. I do a lot of riding where I'm on short, steep trails that require near constant braking for 1-2 minutes, but I'm not particularly heavy (170ish ready to ride).
1) I noticed a while back that my mounting bolts were digging into the tops of the caliper tabs, asymmetrically, when I wasn't using cup/cone washers. I added those to all brakes. Since the marks are already there, I can't really tell if that fixed it. Was this most likely happening due to frame alignment or caliper finish (my guess is caliper finish)? I'd never had that issue prior to the Dominions, and never used cup & cones before, just flat washers.
2) How do you counter the change in lever throw as pads wear? With a fresh set of pads and 2.0mm thick rotors, there is almost no space between pads and rotors, and the lever throw is very short & sharp. By the time pads get to be about half worn, I feel like it doubles. I find myself fiddling with the reach adjust of the levers every few rides to get the left/right side feeling the same as the pads wear at different rates. Are there any other brake systems that don't have this issue, or have a better way to counter it that messing with reach? When I ran Code RSCs I handled it with the Contact adjust, but the Hayes Contact adjust seems to only move the contact in (default is all the way out).
3) on the ebike, I was getting a lot of howling on muddy rides with the Hayes metallic (copper, 100) pads. I just swapped it over to the black 106 pads, which silenced the front, but the rear was still giving me noise (although less bad). I'll pull the rear rotor again, sand/isopropyl it again, and sand the rear pads. What grit sandpaper do you use for cleaning rotors? What do you use on pads?
4) I've had other issues with the Hayes that are mildly annoying (seem to develop sticky pistons about once a year), but I really love how light the lever free stroke feels, and the amount of power on tap. In terms of the Blister Brake Shootout terms, I don't think I have particularly strong feelings about Lever Throw, and would probably be OK with a softer Bite Point. I have previously owned XTs, MT7s, and Code RSCs. My issues with the XTs are the wandering bite point and the on/off feel (although I get used to that). The MT7s were impossible to keep aligned with the 4 independent pads, and the Free Stroke was too firm. I loved the Code bleed system, found the power OK with the right pads, used the contact adjust often, but found the firm Free Stroke was tiring. I think the only other readily available brake that I haven't tried is the DH-R Evos (ignoring Mavens since it sounds like the Free Stroke is like Codes). Anyone gone from Dominions to TRPs or vice versa, and is it something I should really consider trying? Do the TRPs have the same issue with changing lever throw as pads wear? To reiterate, when the Hayes are freshly serviced with pads at ~80%, they feel amazing. My gripes basically boil down to when the pads are in the other extremes (brand new or at ~30%), and how I've had to replace pistons in 2/4 of my units.
Maybe adjust the contact all the way in, and then replace pads and bleed the system? Might give you some leeway to adjust the contact point out as the pads wear.
I have lots of experience riding Dominions and agree the lever feel changes quite a bit as the pads wear.
My biggest gripe with Dominions was the pad rattle when you're not actually braking.
So, how bad are Crank Brothers Synthesis XCT alloy wheels? Looking at picking up a used set that's supposedly in good shape, takeoffs from a YT Izzo, for $100. With Crank Bros branded hubs, no idea who makes those for them.
I don't intend to actually ride these wheels. I'd be putting them on a bike when I sell it, and keeping the carbon wheels that are on it now. Just curious if their presence on a bike is a deterrent to sale.
I rode a pair on a hardtail and they did just fine. Though they did have the I9 1/1 hubs and not the crankbrothers branded ones. I was using them for their intended XC purpose but for most of that time it was in Southern Arizona and they saw plenty of rock strikes. One flattish spot and otherwise no trouble.
Not selling it yet, but kind of shopping around - maybe for a frameset and swap everything over, maybe complete bike. It's a Devinci Marshall carbon from 2018, nice parts, but not a terribly expensive bike. (Not the same as the current aluminum Marshall, which is kind of a lower price point FS bike for Devinci.). It's close to a Django.
So following my post, I also emailed Hayes CS asking if they had any tips regarding the lever feel change. This is what they said:
"This sounds like it's bleed related - if these were mine I'd rebleed and snug those fittings a little extra with a pliers. It'll make sure there's a good seal on the tapered seat!
Also after bleeding - pull the caliper/thick bleed block. Install the pads and slide in the thick end of the pad spacer. Pull and hold pressure on the lever for 5-10 seconds. This will bias the seals to the rotor and helps give a better feel."
I then checked all 4 of my hose nuts with a torque wrench, and every single one of them needed quite a bit of tightening to get up to the specified 8n-m of torque. The best one only needed about 3/4 of a turn, the worst needed at least 3 full turns and probably advanced a solid 1-2mm. Shame on me for not using a torque wrench in the first place! I'd just done them up by hand, probably somewhat cautiously after being traumatized by working on plastic MCs before (Magura).
On every brake I've owned, I always slightly bend out the pad springs with a flathead screwdriver and never get any rattle.
Quick, someone talk me out of this:
Eddy Merckx Gravel Bike
https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/74715141
Other then the max tire size it seems like a primo dentist bike..
Last edited by sfotex; 03-03-2024 at 09:06 AM.
When life gives you haters, make haterade.
Ok, I have to go the Vegas for work on March 10/11th. I'm in the Salt Lake Area. My plan is to drive down to Hurricane/St. George Saturday and ride a few days head to Vegas, then ride Wens-Saturday somewhere.
It looks like there's some good riding in Bootleg Canyon, kill a day there? Sedona/Prescott? Head back to Saint George? Phoenix?
When life gives you haters, make haterade.
It looks like a decent "all road" bike. 40mm clearance is not enough to give it "gravel bike" status, IMO. GRX Di2 is fantastic. GRX carbon wheels are pretty nice, too. If you don't need real gravel tire clearance, it's a super deal.
Bootleg is super fun tech/jank and well worth a day. I did a ~50mi ride there which covered pretty much all of the trails, and it remains a fun memory. The other trails around Vegas can be pretty decent too, especially if you just have a few hours to ride, but Bootleg is the prize.
Sedona is, well, Sedona. It will be crowded, but the trails are fun. Prescott trails are pretty fun too, and you can have a very different experience depending on whether you ride the mellow forest stuff (W of town) or the crazy rock stuff (NE).
ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.
Check out Kingman and new stuff RA has been building. Not far south of Henderson.
Sedona is cool but a bit father to drive. Just make sure any trip there doesn't overlap with the Sedona MTB festival unless you want to share the trails with a couple thousand Jongs. The week before and after the festival will probably be busier too as some people hang out for a full week.
Preskitt might have snow on the upper trails. Dells would be worth stopping in for if you like tech. I've seen comments of trails opening up already in Flag though, so maybe Prescott is more good to go than normal.
If you do head south to AZ you could loop around via Page. The Rimview loop there is an easy pedal (<2hrs) but scenic and pretty fun. Then stop in Kanab at Tilted Mesa if it's not snowy/muddy.
Lots of good stuff in Vegas besides Bootleg if you decide to stick around that area. Cowboy trails would be closest in terms of techy character. Other stuff like Cottonwood, Blue Diamond, Bears Best etc is more xc.
An option for the drive home would be to go through Caliente and maybe Ely.
X2 on the above. Bootleg has enough fun trail for 2 days. Maybe 3.
Cool. Now that I recommended it, I'd check with locals first and make sure there isn't snow there especially with current storms moving through.
Barnes canyon is probably the best bet. Kershaw Ryan SP is ok as well but might fill just a couple hours. Ella Mtn is a really nice point to point shuttle but only the lower half would be rideable, if that even.
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