Wrenchin... Adventures under the hood... Put em here.

[Rideski]

Anyone have any luck selling a set of third row seats? I see a bunch listed in eBay, CL.

[unitofstuff]

Anyone have any luck selling a set of third row seats? I see a bunch listed in eBay, CL.

Maybe slightly better than trying to sell factory running boards. Only real market I can think of is people who have a damaged seat they'd want to replace.

Both vehicles I've had with third rows have had them immediately pulled out, put in big contractor trashbags, and wasted space in my basement. Was nice to throw them back into the one vehicle I sold, still have the other.

[Name Redacted]

I took the third row seat out of our Sequoia and put them in our garage for red neck sunset watching. They are far more comfortable than the previous camp chairs.

[Rideski]

I actually sold my factory running boards for $50 lol. But yeah I don't have a lot of hope for these. I've heard some use them for front seats in a rebuild type thing but that's pretty random as well.

[detrusor]

Ok, question. Had the wife’s Subaru forester (2014) at the dealer because the valve body on the car tranny went bad causing all warning lights to come on. I have hopes subaru of America will help w the cost since it’s just slightly out of extended warranty for the issue…otherwise I would have taken it Bob.

Anyway, valve carrier is leaking. From what read they just use liquid gasket maker at the factory i stead of an actual gasket. Necessitates pulling the engine to repair, they say $3300. It’s not even leaving drops on the ground…I’m of the mind to just add oil as necessary since it’s destined to happen again. Is this stoooooopid? Any role for that gasket reconditioner stuff or is that equally stooooopid? Thanks in advance. Don’t think we’ll buy a Subaru again, lots of these little issues our Toyotas never have.

[gravitylover]

P0420 keeps popping on our Volvo. I've run a few bottles of super juice cat cleaner stuff and it's done nothing, changed most of the parts it could be but haven't done O2 sensors yet. I really don't want to spend $3k+ for a new cat if there's something else it could be that I haven't checked yet. This may be what forces me to get Vida/Dice and a windows laptop. FWIW the dealer diag fee is onerous and if it turns out to be the cat it must be replaced with the carb certified, vin specific cat or the car won't pass inspection anymore so I'm trying to find a workaround.

[El Chupacabra]

Ok, question. Had the wife’s Subaru forester (2014) at the dealer because the valve body on the car tranny went bad causing all warning lights to come on. I have hopes subaru of America will help w the cost since it’s just slightly out of extended warranty for the issue…otherwise I would have taken it Bob.

Anyway, valve carrier is leaking. From what read they just use liquid gasket maker at the factory i stead of an actual gasket. Necessitates pulling the engine to repair, they say $3300. It’s not even leaving drops on the ground…I’m of the mind to just add oil as necessary since it’s destined to happen again. Is this stoooooopid? Any role for that gasket reconditioner stuff or is that equally stooooopid? Thanks in advance. Don’t think we’ll buy a Subaru again, lots of these little issues our Toyotas never have.

What's a valve carrier in a transmission?

If this is just a small external transmission fluid leak, and you have a dipstick on the transmission, I'd just top it off.

Gasket reconditioner type additives are supposed to work by making seals swell. I think they're mostly snake oil, and I wouldn't use any unless it was a junker or it's going to be traded in.

[El Chupacabra]

P0420 keeps popping on our Volvo. I've run a few bottles of super juice cat cleaner stuff and it's done nothing, changed most of the parts it could be but haven't done O2 sensors yet. I really don't want to spend $3k+ for a new cat if there's something else it could be that I haven't checked yet. This may be what forces me to get Vida/Dice and a windows laptop. FWIW the dealer diag fee is onerous and if it turns out to be the cat it must be replaced with the carb certified, vin specific cat or the car won't pass inspection anymore so I'm trying to find a workaround.

How many cats, and how many O2 sensors? No codes specific to an O2 sensor?

Do you observe any signs of a failing cat? Smog test results bad, rattling from the cat (gently tap outside of cat, listen for rattles - if a chunk breaks off inside it may rattle - do this carefully so you don't break the cat element), sulphur smell at exhaust, reduced power (cat clogged)?

[Touring_Sedan]

P0420 keeps popping on our Volvo. I've run a few bottles of super juice cat cleaner stuff and it's done nothing, changed most of the parts it could be but haven't done O2 sensors yet. I really don't want to spend $3k+ for a new cat if there's something else it could be that I haven't checked yet. This may be what forces me to get Vida/Dice and a windows laptop. FWIW the dealer diag fee is onerous and if it turns out to be the cat it must be replaced with the carb certified, vin specific cat or the car won't pass inspection anymore so I'm trying to find a workaround.

You don't need a Volvo specific OBD to read O2 sensors. Any bluetooth OBD adapter off of Amazon paired with the free app Torque will show you the upstream and downstream voltages to your sensors. It'll be pretty obvious what's going on.

[fatnslow]

You don't need a Volvo specific OBD to read O2 sensors. Any bluetooth OBD adapter off of Amazon paired with the free app Torque will show you the upstream and downstream voltages to your sensors. It'll be pretty obvious what's going on.

This and that shit you poured in for cat cleaning has lower odds of winning than a Powerball ball ticket. Go to Swedespeed and see if you can find info on what o2 sensor readings should be while live streaming and you'll have an idea of what's going on.

[gravitylover]

That's when I start wondering if $100 or so vs $150 for an iCarsoft handheld with Volvo software so I can do things like ebrake reset when I change the brake pads and have other live data info is necessary. Yeah, I know there are $30 obd Bluetooth adapters but they're questionable.

@fnslow Hence my sarcasm. Yup gonna learn more about that stuff.

[mcphee]

Ok, question. Had the wife’s Subaru forester (2014) at the dealer because the valve body on the car tranny went bad causing all warning lights to come on. I have hopes subaru of America will help w the cost since it’s just slightly out of extended warranty for the issue…otherwise I would have taken it Bob.

Anyway, valve carrier is leaking. From what read they just use liquid gasket maker at the factory i stead of an actual gasket. Necessitates pulling the engine to repair, they say $3300. It’s not even leaving drops on the ground…I’m of the mind to just add oil as necessary since it’s destined to happen again. Is this stoooooopid? Any role for that gasket reconditioner stuff or is that equally stooooopid? Thanks in advance. Don’t think we’ll buy a Subaru again, lots of these little issues our Toyotas never have.

I’m gonna make an educated guess and assume valve carrier means the valve body housing.

If this valve carrier is leaking because the sealant they use at the factory failed, then it’s an internal leak between the valve body and the xmsn case and the leak is causing a pressure loss in the valve body thus causing the light show on the dash.

[Todd Zander]

P0420 keeps popping on our Volvo. I've run a few bottles of super juice cat cleaner stuff and it's done nothing, changed most of the parts it could be but haven't done O2 sensors yet. I really don't want to spend $3k+ for a new cat if there's something else it could be that I haven't checked yet. This may be what forces me to get Vida/Dice and a windows laptop. FWIW the dealer diag fee is onerous and if it turns out to be the cat it must be replaced with the carb certified, vin specific cat or the car won't pass inspection anymore so I'm trying to find a workaround.

Spark plug non fouler

[fatnslow]

That's when I start wondering if $100 or so vs $150 for an iCarsoft handheld with Volvo software so I can do things like ebrake reset when I change the brake pads and have other live data info is necessary. Yeah, I know there are $30 obd Bluetooth adapters but they're questionable.

@fnslow Hence my sarcasm. Yup gonna learn more about that stuff.

Order a Bluetooth paired with Torque and if it doesn't work for what you need just return it. You need to find out WHICH 02 sensor is giving you faulty readings to even start diagnosis. You might have mentioned your wife runs regular when the car calls for premium possibly. This can cause some issues if it's done ling term. But again you need to figure out which o2 sensor(s) are triggering the code to take the next step. IF this is beyond what you want to do take it to a Indy and pay for a proper diagnosis and go from there. See if you need a sensor or a cat. Someone previously mentioned a o2 extender if your cat is the issue as well. You might have mentioned it as well about your Caravan so you are familiar with how they work.

[Touring_Sedan]

That's when I start wondering if $100 or so vs $150 for an iCarsoft handheld with Volvo software so I can do things like ebrake reset when I change the brake pads and have other live data info is necessary. Yeah, I know there are $30 obd Bluetooth adapters but they're questionable.

@fnslow Hence my sarcasm. Yup gonna learn more about that stuff.

Dude. If you want us to tell you to invest in a Volvo specific scanner because you need an excuse to do so, just ask. We gave you a $6 diagnostic solution for your problem. You seem hellbent at times to ignore the advice you seek. That's frustrating AF for the rest of us.


These aren't "questionable." Many of us have been using them for years. No, they're not going to do specific Volvo shit, but it's $6.

[unitofstuff]

I’m gonna make an educated guess and assume valve carrier means the valve body housing.

If this valve carrier is leaking because the sealant they use at the factory failed, then it’s an internal leak between the valve body and the xmsn case and the leak is causing a pressure loss in the valve body thus causing the light show on the dash.

Subarus over the past 10ish years have been shitting out shift solenoids like it's cool. They don't sell them separate from the valvebody, so the "fix" is a whole new valvebody with all new solenoids. They're not too difficult to swap out, a new gasket and a dab of RTV in a couple strategic spots seals them right up.

Subaru has been hit or miss on covering these under good faith/just out of warranty. Dealers want about $1500 for the job, valvebody from an online dealer/parts seller is about $800. I found an ebay listing for genuine, new Subaru valvebody for under $400. (https://www.ebay.com/itm/275663509981 if you need one)

[Cisco Kid]

Cost me $2500 for a new valve body on a 15 Forester two weeks ago. 1000 miles past the Suby "Courtesy" warranty extension. Sucks.

[WizardOfRoz]

Finally got around to tracking the Inner and outer tie rods, pitman and idler arm. Thankfully I had a buddy (and a couple beers) to help me out. Sorry I didn't get pics before the old stuff got taken out.

We didn't remove the steering gearbox we just unbolted it and then pulled it forward to get clearance to get the puller on.



Thankfully my pitman arm puller didn't break as I've heard on some accounts. My corded impact didn't have the juice to push it all the way off so used a breaker bar with a cheater to slowly push it off.



We then unbolted the idler arm (and assembly) from the frame and then removed the whole bar to pull the arm. Ended up just hammering it out.

With the bar removed and the idler out we took off the inner tie rods and swapped in the new ones. Attached the outers as well at that time. Put the bar back in and then proceeded to reattach everything. Kept the steering box loose and put the pitman arm back in and the idler. Tightened everything and did a quick alignment.

Damn it feels like a new truck driving. Real alignment will be next week when I'm back from work. Thanks to everyone on the forum to give me the confidence to tackle this job

[fatnslow]

Random OBD2 scanner question for the brain trust. I recently bought a car with a failed timing belt tensioner causing all kinds of noise on a Honda V6 engine. There was no check engine lights illuminated so I just lined up TDC of the crank and both cams, replaced the tensioner. Car starts, runs fine for 4-5 days. Then a check engine light illuminated and I find 12 misfire codes. I'm assuming these were all set while the car was ran with the failed tensioner and just illuminated after being stored ? The only caveat was the rear cam did seem like it wasn't perfectly aligned when I set the TDC but looked lines up when I set tension.
It took me multiple times to reset the codes over a few drive cycles.
My question is can it take 3-4 attempts to clear codes ? The first attempt was using a Autel unit at a auto part store and the other 2 were using my cheap Bluetooth unit mated with torque. I have only taken a short drive after getting all the codes to erase and will monitor for the next few days.
I just don't want to tear into it again to set timing for a skipped tooth on the timing belt if I don't have to and have never had to reset this many times but it did have a shit load of misfire codes.

[El Chupacabra]

Finally got around to tracking the Inner and outer tie rods, pitman and idler arm. Thankfully I had a buddy (and a couple beers) to help me out. Sorry I didn't get pics before the old stuff got taken out.

We didn't remove the steering gearbox we just unbolted it and then pulled it forward to get clearance to get the puller on.



Thankfully my pitman arm puller didn't break as I've heard on some accounts. My corded impact didn't have the juice to push it all the way off so used a breaker bar with a cheater to slowly push it off.



We then unbolted the idler arm (and assembly) from the frame and then removed the whole bar to pull the arm. Ended up just hammering it out.

With the bar removed and the idler out we took off the inner tie rods and swapped in the new ones. Attached the outers as well at that time. Put the bar back in and then proceeded to reattach everything. Kept the steering box loose and put the pitman arm back in and the idler. Tightened everything and did a quick alignment.

Damn it feels like a new truck driving. Real alignment will be next week when I'm back from work. Thanks to everyone on the forum to give me the confidence to tackle this job

Nice job. That's on my to do next spring /summer. I replaced idler arm and bracket, but nothing else on the front end. The steering is still pretty loose - or at least I feel like it could be much better - even though most parts don't have much play when checking by feel at the connections (having helper wiggle tire while it's in the air, and also checking with helper wiggle steering wheel).

[El Chupacabra]

Random OBD2 scanner question for the brain trust. I recently bought a car with a failed timing belt tensioner causing all kinds of noise on a Honda V6 engine. There was no check engine lights illuminated so ai just lined up aTDC of the tank and both cams, replaced the tensioner. Car starts, runs fine for 4-5 days. Them a check engine light illuminated and I find 12 misfire codes. I'm assuming these were all set while the car was ran with the failed tensioner and just illuminated after being stored ? The only caveat was the rear cam did seem like it wasn't perfectly aligned when I set the TDC but looked lines up when I set tension.
It took me multiple times to reset the codes over a few drive cycles.
My question is can it take 3-4 attempts to clear codes ? The first attempt was using a Autel unit at a auto part store and the other 2 were using my cheap Bluetooth unit mated with torque. I have only taken a short drive after getting all the codes to erase and will monitor for the next few days.
I just don't want to tear into it again to set timing for a hopp d tooth in the timing belt if I don't have to and have never had to reset this many times but it did have a shit load of misfire codes.

My experience is codes clear immediately on clearing, and don't take multiple attempts - but my experience on that is not on any Honda product, so YMMV.

When it's running, does it drive and sound normal? Feel confident there was no valve damage when the timing belt tensioner broke?

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

Random OBD2 scanner question for the brain trust. I recently bought a car with a failed timing belt tensioner causing all kinds of noise on a Honda V6 engine. There was no check engine lights illuminated so ai just lined up aTDC of the tank and both cams, replaced the tensioner. Car starts, runs fine for 4-5 days. Them a check engine light illuminated and I find 12 misfire codes. I'm assuming these were all set while the car was ran with the failed tensioner and just illuminated after being stored ? The only caveat was the rear cam did seem like it wasn't perfectly aligned when I set the TDC but looked lines up when I set tension.
It took me multiple times to reset the codes over a few drive cycles.
My question is can it take 3-4 attempts to clear codes ? The first attempt was using a Autel unit at a auto part store and the other 2 were using my cheap Bluetooth unit mated with torque. I have only taken a short drive after getting all the codes to erase and will monitor for the next few days.
I just don't want to tear into it again to set timing for a hopp d tooth in the timing belt if I don't have to and have never had to reset this many times but it did have a shit load of misfire codes.

I'm betting it's ancillary - you also have bad plug(s), ignition coil/module, etc.

[fatnslow]

My experience is codes clear immediately on clearing, and don't take multiple attempts - but my experience on that is not on any Honda product, so YMMV.

When it's running, does it drive and sound normal? Feel confident there was no valve damage when the timing belt tensioner broke?

It runs great and it's a bastard child- Saturn Vue with Honda V6/5 speed AT. I drove it today after clearing everything and I didn't see any codes. It also had retained 180 codes that were greyed out(mostly body codes) that took multiple attempts to clear. I've driven enough of these Honda V6's to know when they're actually misfiring and I haven't felt ANYTHING while driving it for the last week. Hoping the GM/Saturn/Honda bastardization makes the OBD2 system a bit wonky so I'll keep an eye on it. Worst case is I would need to reset TDC for the crank and both cams. Not the end of the world but it still would be 2-3 hours. I haven't done a compression test or anything but the car runs great with decent power to about 75 then some resistance but that's mostly due to the short wheel base on a boxy body.


Update:

2 days of driving and no misfire codes so I'll assume they were stored from when the engine was running poorly with a failed TB tensioner and codes held in storage. Tried to erase all the other grayed out codes(156) but no luck. The generic scanner at O'reilly's doesn't even read them but my bluetooth/torque shows them grayed out and won't erase. I'll attribute this as a Tech 2 thing, my Saab behaves the same way with certain codes. You need a Saab specific Tech 2 to read anything body, airbag related and erase. GM/Saab both used specific Tech @ scanners during that ear that was tough to deal with.

[WizardOfRoz]

Nice job. That's on my to do next spring /summer. I replaced idler arm and bracket, but nothing else on the front end. The steering is still pretty loose - or at least I feel like it could be much better - even though most parts don't have much play when checking by feel at the connections (having helper wiggle tire while it's in the air, and also checking with helper wiggle steering wheel).

The idler and pitman weren't super super loose when I pulled them to move them by hand. I've tried checking for play on a couple cars now that way and it always seems "fine". However, every time I take them off the inner and outer tie rod ball joints are super loose.

I ended up going Moog problem solver off Rock Auto for everything except GM OEM idler arm and bracket. It was ~$20 bucks more. Mine was also a 3 groove since there is the option for a 3 or 4.

[east or bust]

I'll be a regular participant of this thread for years to come. Picked up the '98 Tahoe this weekend. Overall, aesthetically and mechanically it's in really great shape. Drives perfectly straight with no shake at 70mph, engine and trans feel strong, steering is tight, etc.

Could have sworn when I looked at it last Monday I watched the guy pull in and saw the brake lights work, but sure enough 5min into driving it back my fiancé calls and tells me no brake lights. It'll be a good starter project on the easier side.

Sounds like it can be a lot of different shit going haywire on the GMT400 platform. Started with the easiest today - fuses and ground on the rear harness. Tried to check power at the rear harness but it's kind of a pain in the ass with a multimeter. 95% it's not getting power back there but going to buy a cheap test light tomorrow to be 100% sure. Next will be the brake switch, followed by the turn signal switch. The blinkers and hazards work fine so don't think it has anything to do with the circuit boards in the lights themselves.













Turned 132k on the drive back