PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[allmountainsnowskating]

What bindings are you using? Been wanting to build one.

I just use the cheapest harfang trucks.
There isn't really that huge of a difference for the more expensive rocker trucks.

You want to use the most hard charging full wood core (no foam core) women's or junior's tip-rocker profile powder ski you can get your hands on.
At least 85mm wide, the wider the better.
Between 110cm and 160cm. 135cm being the sweet spot.

Start your measurement at the mount line. Center your deck on it and move back towards the tail as far as you comfortably can to have the shortest tail possible. I mounted the pink one at -2cm from line. If you get any farther than -5cm from line, something is wrong.

Be careful of torsion box construction because you can miss the torsion box on your truck mount. Also, be careful of really thin skis because they won't take a bolt insert.

If you don't want to go through the trouble of inserts because you don't feel the need to test out different mounts, just tap the trucks in with regular ol' ski binding screws.

Mount the trucks on the furthest outside bolt holes of your deck. More stable that way.

Clean the grip tape off your deck and put some stomp pads on it. The crab grab spikes are really easy to find locally.

Snowskate decks are shaped weird with high kicks because people tend to ride duck foot in the pockets instead of standard skateboard stance. You can put longboard torsion blocks or a longboard foot stop to help with staying on while riding.

Drill a 1/2 inch hole in your deck for a leash.

A 4 foot dog leash with a 2 inch carbiner works better than anything. The shitty telephone wire leashes on the market will break on you at the worst moment possible. Attach the leash to your pants belt, so you can release the board in an emergency.

Have fun!

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[Ed el Loco]

Cool thanks for the info

[allmountainsnowskating]

Cool thanks for the info

Glad u got it!

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[~mikey b]

question

do Marker Griffon / Jester / Squire share the same hole pattern?

[stealurface831]

question

do Marker Griffon / Jester / Squire share the same hole pattern?

they do.

[~mikey b]

thanks!

[sf]

186 Bodes, just in time for suncrust —> slush-season

[Cork7 Belly Flop]

For a new mount, is it worth positioning the ski boot further back on the heel track to shorten the mount pattern? Or does that mess with the ski's flex underfoot?

[~mikey b]

remounted my girl’s “new” Volkl Secret 102 - was able to use old toe holes and bump the heel back 1.5cm

she’s gonna love these

[CYJ]

For a new mount, is it worth positioning the ski boot further back on the heel track to shorten the mount pattern? Or does that mess with the ski's flex underfoot?

I've wondered this myself, given I'm on Tyrolia Attacks that have not only a long mounting pattern in the heel compared to others in its category (I think) but also more metal in the mounting frame, which Tyrolia claims as a plus for more responsiveness. I just see it as a 'stronger' dead zone. In any case, we're talking about a what, ~1-2 cm of adjustable range in the heel given the binding model? Assuming mounting for your appropriate bsl puts you in the middle of that range, you can realistically shorten the mount point by about a cm or less? Can't say that'd really make much of a noticeable difference IMO, especially if your skis have a progressive mount point.

[mf12d0]

my last 6 pair I have mounted, the templates on TGR made it super easy just did it with a hand drill, used the proper bit and taped around the bit so as not to drill too deep. Mounts have been solid as I go 245lbs with gear and am pretty hard on the EC Icebumps. Once my local shop started upcharging ($75/mount) if you did not buy from them, I stopped using them 6 x$75 = $450 saved so far. getting ready to mount up the BG's this week... Now we just need some snow on The EC

Where are these templates?

[J. Barron DeJong]

Where are these templates?

Sticky thread at the top of ‘Tech Talk’ forum.

[anotherVTskibum]

I've wondered this myself, given I'm on Tyrolia Attacks that have not only a long mounting pattern in the heel compared to others in its category (I think) but also more metal in the mounting frame, which Tyrolia claims as a plus for more responsiveness. I just see it as a 'stronger' dead zone. In any case, we're talking about a what, ~1-2 cm of adjustable range in the heel given the binding model? Assuming mounting for your appropriate bsl puts you in the middle of that range, you can realistically shorten the mount point by about a cm or less? Can't say that'd really make much of a noticeable difference IMO, especially if your skis have a progressive mount point.

I've mounted several pair such that my normal boots (305mm) line up at the desired boot center but have the heel -1cm from the center of the track. That means I can go up to 314 (barely) but that I can also get down to 285 (barely) and my 295mm race boots aren't near either end of the range either.

I have no idea if it has a noticeable impact on flex pattern.

[XXX-er]

I have some Deadbolt Demo's that i moved just the rear tracks ( small BSL ) so i could play with mounting points, that way I could go up to + 6 or - 2 , on a powder ski in soft conditions I couldn't tell anything on the flex and it took moving 2cms to feel any difference in where boot center was

[dcpnz]

Planning to add toe shims to reduce ramp on some ATK bindings.

I'm under impression that most oem screws are somewhere around 8mm into ski - is that correct?
What is minimum thread length you would feel comfortable with? Would it depend on whether there is metal in ski mount area?
Would you feel ok about 7mm into a wood core touring ski? 6mm??

Specific situation somewhat limited by access to widely available HDPE shim material and ease of obtaining longer screws (from Terry at slidewright) while preferring to not need to grind super long ones.

[~mikey b]

B&D makes ATK shims

bndskigear.com/shims/


you can order them from skimo.com too

[dcpnz]

B&D makes ATK shims

bndskigear.com/shims/


you can order them from skimo.com too

Yeah but not specifically for c-raider.
The regular raider ones from atk are nice but screws are different and base plate is different shape and with bnd ones would still need to sort out screw length

[Cork7 Belly Flop]

I have some Deadbolt Demo's that i moved just the rear tracks ( small BSL ) so i could play with mounting points, that way I could go up to + 6 or - 2 , on a powder ski in soft conditions I couldn't tell anything on the flex and it took moving 2cms to feel any difference in where boot center was

Sounds like I'll just center the boot on the heel track then.

[Cork7 Belly Flop]

Does anyone here actually tighten their screws to 4nm or do people just go with 'hand tight'?

[old mexico]

I go with the German torque spec of gutentight


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[Meadow Skipper]

Screws - snug, then just a little extra.

[XXX-er]

Does anyone here actually tighten their screws to 4nm or do people just go with 'hand tight'?

run it in till the screw strips then back off 1/4 turn

but seriously you can really crank down hard as you can on a binding screw if it doesn't hold you got a spinner

[kid-kapow]

wopsy, both another pair of blackops118s. So far so good, I am really enjoying them. Mounted -2 from recommended, so -4.5. I would love to try these back to back with jeff118s, but alas - cannot afford any jeffs now.

The plan is to try them back to back with koala118 as the wider ski, + koala103 vs sender free 110 as the narrower ski for a two ski quiver - but I might just forego the testing if I end up preferring the bo118s by alot to k118s tomorrow. Sender Free 110s make me very, very excited - can't wait to get on them.

K119s are nice too, but are like koala103s just too stiff imho. Both k119s and k103s are hilariously fun in drier snow, but too much work in wet, supervariable snow imho. Their stiff flex patterns causes deflections and/or make them hard work to shut down at mach looney. Too bad, as a slightly rounder flex pattern would have made them almost ideal skis as the shapes are money.

[Pinned]

Does anyone here actually tighten their screws to 4nm or do people just go with 'hand tight'?

4nm really isn't all that much torque. I would bet that almost every ski out there is torqued to more than that. I've used a torque wrench on my skis that are mounted with inserts, but I've definitely touched them up since then and those are probably all closer to 5-6nm now.

[lucknau]

Does anyone here actually tighten their screws to 4nm or do people just go with 'hand tight'?

I do, but I am a little OCD.

I use a Topeak Nano torque adapter and sometimes “calibrate” it by comparing with an old school inch-lb needle torque wrench.



:::::@:::::