PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[Wes Mantooth]

Drilled into a pair of brand new skis for the first time in many years but I think it was my most accurate mount to date.

I tried the pictured method for finding the centerline and it was definitely the quickest and most accurate way I’ve ever tried. I know it’s been posted here before but highly recommend trying it if you haven’t yet




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[doebedoe]

Should be recreating that same procedure tomorrow afternoon at our annual mount and wax party. These two beauties gonna get mounted. My first time ever owning current-model year skis. I'm going to figure out what the difference is between the WC 101 and DW 104 so you all don't have to.

[detrusor]

A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished


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[Dee Hubbs]

A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished

You need a 8mm hole saw. It will bridge around the broken screw and be the right size for a tap-in inset.
Here is the "proper" tool from Tonger for $30:

https://www.tognar.com/hollow-core-drill-bit/


The only difference between the above "proper" tool, and a cheap $6.00 one from Amazon is that its collar fits in a ski jig.


Then just tap in a brass or plastic inset.

[Eluder]

A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished


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One the shops I worked at had a stholi (I think) hallow bit that went over the broken screw and over bored the hole to the size of the little plastic tap in plugs… Google got me no where trying to find a pic.

Edit: Well fuck there it is above me ��

[Dee Hubbs]

Google "5/16 hallow screw extraction bit" to get the cheap option you're looking for.
Because 5/16 = 0.3125" = 7.9375mm

[XXX-er]

A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished


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you could go all holly wood OR just measure 1/2 " ether way from each screw, drill more mounting holes for the remount or some fucking thing like that

[Flippo]

Should be recreating that same procedure tomorrow afternoon at our annual mount and wax party. These two beauties gonna get mounted. My first time ever owning current-model year skis. I'm going to figure out what the difference is between the WC 101 and DW 104 so you all don't have to.

You can’t go wrong this way!

[N1CK.]

Should be recreating that same procedure tomorrow afternoon at our annual mount and wax party. These two beauties gonna get mounted. My first time ever owning current-model year skis. I'm going to figure out what the difference is between the WC 101 and DW 104 so you all don't have to.

can we get more info on the blue plastic dinosaur?

[tuco]

A fucking screws broke off flush to the top sheet on the kids volkls….never had that happen before. Im going to try and dremel a slot in it and back it out… had to trade out afd’s to adult soles. No good deed goes unpunished


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You're in the right track. Definitely try this before what Hubbs is suggesting. Removed many a broken screw this way. A used cutoff wheel will have a smaller footprint. Meaning a smaller diameter cutoff wheel will cut less into the periphery(your top sheet) around the screw shaft(depending on the level the screw shaft broke). Grinding the slot should heat the shaft to break the bond. Also, use a non fiber reinforced cutoff wheel, it will leave a skinnier kerf.
If it doesn't work, do as Hubbs suggests or remount

[detrusor]

Dremel for the win. I used a very small diamond burr and carefully cut a derp slot in the screw but not all the way to the outside diameter of the screw. Applied heat, and it backed out.

I have the hollow bit for drilling over the screw but didn’t want to put an inset in if I didn’t have too.

I figure the screw must have had a flaw in it, it was new last season when I mounted them, no corrosion or anything on any of the screws.


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[XXX-er]

Often I don't know who mounted the binding or what glue they used so yeah heat for the win BEFORE the head breaks off or is stripped at the very first sign I got a problem

I often forget this,

[~mikey b]

forget what?

[Supermoon]

Exactly

[XXX-er]

wtf do you think ?

use heat before I break or strip a screw

[tgapp]

wtf do you think ?

use heat before I break or strip a screw

I have a little Dremel gas powered soldering iron in my mounting kit for this very reason. It's served me well. Would you back out a helicoil with the same technique?

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[XXX-er]

I have a little Dremel gas powered soldering iron in my mounting kit for this very reason. It's served me well. Would you back out a helicoil with the same technique?

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I've dealt with a few screws that wouldn't budge, some I remembered to try the heat which worked and heat has always worked, some I forgot about the heat and stripped the head said oh fuck i should have tried heat

But I have never dealt with a helicoil and I always use FG & slow set to fix spinners as opposed to a helicoil

I am not sure about using heat on a helicoil becuz I am not sure if the screw would come out of the helicoil OR the heli coil would come out of the ski ?

BUT if it got to that point the screw was stuck you would need to try something probably heat, obviously if you don't know there is a heli coil in the ski you would be doing it anyway

[BC.]

Here’s the mount of the day 10/16/21….saved it for the last this afternoon:

First Meier mount at the shop here in NEPA…

[doebedoe]

Annual mount and wax party -- one of the few annual rituals I really care for.

[J. Barron DeJong]

I have a little Dremel gas powered soldering iron in my mounting kit for this very reason. It's served me well. Would you back out a helicoil with the same technique?

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Took me way too long to realize your soldering iron wasn’t powered by an gas engine. Pictured you yanking on a cord to start that thing up!

[tgapp]

Took me way too long to realize your soldering iron wasn’t powered by an gas engine. Pictured you yanking on a cord to start that thing up!

Ya I had the coal-fired steam engine model at first, really liked it, but I found it difficult to source bituminous coal when travelling, so I upgraded to the gas one.

I should have called it a butane soldering torch, that would have been far less confusing

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[Bobcat Sig]

Drilled into a pair of brand new skis for the first time in many years but I think it was my most accurate mount to date.

I tried the pictured method for finding the centerline and it was definitely the quickest and most accurate way I’ve ever tried. I know it’s been posted here before but highly recommend trying it if you haven’t yet




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Radical cakes. I'm filing this away for the next mount. Much appreciated for the share.

[Wes Mantooth]

Radical cakes. I'm filing this away for the next mount. Much appreciated for the share.

I'm def not the pioneer of this method but you will not be disappointed! One accompanying tip is that a lot of calipers have an indentation where the arm meets the ruler part as you can see in the picture. If you put the ruler part up snug on the ski base the edge will often go into the indentation and not sit flat on the caliper arm, thus making the measurement off the sidewall and not the ski edge (which is probably still fine). I remedied this by taping a shim to the underside of the calipers so I could rest it flat on the ski base and get the arms flush on the edges. Just make sure the shim is straight. I can send a pic if that explanation made no sense...

[AlpiNord]

http://www.slidewright.com/Bindings/SkiScribe/IMG_9633D.jpeg[/IMG]

Check center mark relative to one edge, then the other and adjust the mark:





Another thing to keep in mind, is that the farther apart your two centerline marks are from each other, the less the potential margin of error when you draw a centerline. I use at least a 4' straight edge. You can use string or wire as long as your ski tops if you want for more distance.

[Pinned]

I'll report back once I've got it mounted up, I think -1cm will be fine for these. I'll be stoked if I get more than a few days in on them this season anyhow so I'm not sweating it, just wanted to be sure I wasn't about to make some unforeseen error. Thanks guys.

Quoting myself here - same skis but new questions. Pulled the toe off to plug the holes and re-mount it back 2cm and found that one ski seemed to be mounted OK, one mounted absolutely abhorrently. I am surprised the toe didn't rip out...which I guess confirms that these probably only had 1 day on them like the seller claimed. No epoxy or wood glue in anything.

I want to pull the heels off to check that the mounts for those aren't somehow screwed up also - safe to remount into the same holes there?

For the toe that's OK I went ahead and plugged the holes with plastic plugs and epoxy. For the toe that's a mess I am planning on putting a plug + epoxy into the holes and injecting epoxy with a syringe into the extra holes. I'll still have more than 1cm from any other hole with the remount. Seem like an OK plan?

And yes, all of the wood shavings in the picture were just trapped under the binding.