PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[jhyatt]

Here is my most recent project: 2016 Bibbys. Came upon these with something like 4 mounts already on them. Drilled out all plastic plugs and replaced with 1/4” oak dowel epoxied in with g flex. Proceeded to install QK inserts for tectons at -1 with very little overlap. Skis somehow now have 39 holes each!
Attachment 369183
Attachment 369184


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Fuck it just drill some more. Drillium. Saves weight.

[EWG]

A second mount hole conflict question.

184cm 2018 Line Mordecai's. They have a center mount recommended line at -2cm and a factory recommended line at -6cm (though the factory line is not on this model year's top sheet - 2018). Currently mounted at about -1.5cm. After skiing them 10 times or so I don't like how forward they are, gonna move them back. Was gonna put them around -5.5 or -6cm but that's right in the middle of the other toe hole. Keeping the new holes 1cm away from the old, center to center, my choices are about -4.5cm or -6.5cm.

I think I'd rather have them back as these are my go to powder skis. How concerned should I be about mounting at -6.5cm instead of 6? I feel like I probably won't be able to tell...

[waveshello]

^ impressive. I would not think twice about skiing those... nice job.

Just finished a remount and top sheet repairs on these 182 4frnt turbos. Definitely a love it or hate it top sheet. I think I'm in the latter camp but maybe they will grow on me. Hoping they will be a good Snoqualmie daily driver.

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[phatboy64]

I think the rule of thumb is 8mm center to center is safe. I just moved some bindings around and spent a bunch of (unnecessary) time worrying about a few mm front/back. I went 1cm to be on the safe side. I don’t think you would notice the difference of 5mm but I also think it depends on the ski and the skier.

[Shorty_J]

Here is my most recent project: 2016 Bibbys. Came upon these with something like 4 mounts already on them. Drilled out all plastic plugs and replaced with 1/4” oak dowel epoxied in with g flex. Proceeded to install QK inserts for tectons at -1 with very little overlap. Skis somehow now have 39 holes each!
Attachment 369183
Attachment 369184


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That's some nice work to put new life into old skis.

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[XXX-er]

I think the rule of thumb is 8mm center to center is safe. I just moved some bindings around and spent a bunch of (unnecessary) time worrying about a few mm front/back. I went 1cm to be on the safe side. I don’t think you would notice the difference of 5mm but I also think it depends on the ski and the skier.

i remounted a toe piece on some traditional type 8 yr old K2's for a buddy ( good skier) that he ripped out by hitting a stump at low tide, i injected the area with slowset epoxy but I put the tech toe 5mm back cuz of some delam & the pulled out screws, i asked do want me to move the toe piece on the other ski or are you gona ski them mismatched, he said don't worry about the mismatch

so later on i asked if he could feel the difference 5mm makes ... sez he couldn't tell

[N1CK.]

Anyone know of issues running Tectons on VWerks Katanas?

Volkl has a template for their VWerks skis showing their reinforced area for screws, so you can check non-Marker patterns against it for peace of mind.
Is this a hard rule? I have heel screws that would fall about 1/2 outside their recommended screw zone.

[Norseman]

the H region is pure marketing bullshit. Mount whatever you want on the V-Werks skis

[N1CK.]

the H region is pure marketing bullshit. Mount whatever you want on the V-Werks skis

I thought as much. thanks!

[kid-kapow]

no issues on my end at least - I've run Vipecs and Tectons (same mount pattern) on all my VWerks skis over the years (BMT90/BMT94/BMT109x2/BMT122x2/MantraVWs/KatanaVWs).

The marking was largely marketing speak to get people on Markers. Use plenty of epoxy/glue, consider tapping the holes (just use a screw) and it'll be fine.

I have yet to hear of anybody with any kind of issues when mounting other bindings on any VWerks ski.

[Norseman]

I thought as much. thanks!

You bet.

Expect to encounter voids in the core when drilling, even within the supposed H area.

I'd suggest inverting the skis when the glue cures, to keep it from running down the channels away from the screws.

[EWG]

A second mount hole conflict question.

184cm 2018 Line Mordecai's. They have a center mount recommended line at -2cm and a factory recommended line at -6cm (though the factory line is not on this model year's top sheet - 2018). Currently mounted at about -1.5cm. After skiing them 10 times or so I don't like how forward they are, gonna move them back. Was gonna put them around -5.5 or -6cm but that's right in the middle of the other toe hole. Keeping the new holes 1cm away from the old, center to center, my choices are about -4.5cm or -6.5cm.

I think I'd rather have them back as these are my go to powder skis. How concerned should I be about mounting at -6.5cm instead of 6? I feel like I probably won't be able to tell...

I think the rule of thumb is 8mm center to center is safe. I just moved some bindings around and spent a bunch of (unnecessary) time worrying about a few mm front/back. I went 1cm to be on the safe side. I don’t think you would notice the difference of 5mm but I also think it depends on the ski and the skier.

i remounted a toe piece on some traditional type 8 yr old K2's for a buddy ( good skier) that he ripped out by hitting a stump at low tide, i injected the area with slowset epoxy but I put the tech toe 5mm back cuz of some delam & the pulled out screws, i asked do want me to move the toe piece on the other ski or are you gona ski them mismatched, he said don't worry about the mismatch

so later on i asked if he could feel the difference 5mm makes ... sez he couldn't tell

Thanks to both of you. Any other thoughts? I think I'm tending towards mounting them at -6.4cm or so and hoping that doesn't feel like shit...

[prsboogie]

Is there a rule of thumb regarding mounting demo bindings to 315 for proper adjustments? I know marker said to mount to 315 but wasn't sure it that follows with all demo bindings. Ty

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[doebedoe]

So, managed to pull out a heel of my self-mounted skis for the first time ever after a couple dozen mounts. Not sure what went wrong.... metal top sheet (BC Corvus), 4.1mm bit, tapped, Titebond3 glue, not oddities when mounting.

So now looking to remount in the same spot -- likely with two nylon inserts. The bitch is....I can't get the rear heel piece off. It's a Warden heel piece where you mount the track and slide on the heel piece. The two screws that pulled won't sit flush enough down to get the heel piece off the track. Any obvious ideas? Might try to find a strong magnet to pull them down but not much space to work with in there as I don't want to rip out the other two screws if it can be avoided.

[SoVT Joey]

So, managed to pull out a heel of my self-mounted skis for the first time ever after a couple dozen mounts. Not sure what went wrong.... metal top sheet (BC Corvus), 4.1mm bit, Titebond3 glue, not oddities when mounting.

So now looking to remount in the same spot -- likely with two nylon inserts. The bitch is....I can't get the rear heel piece off. It's a Warden heel piece where you mount the track and slide on the heel piece. The two screws that pulled won't sit flush enough down to get the heel piece off the track. Any obvious ideas? Might try to find a strong magnet to pull them down but not much space to work with in there as I don't want to rip out the other two screws if it can be avoided.

Which screws. The fronts or the back ones. You might be able to take the brake off and then be able to get to them. But those screws don’t like to move in the holes in the plate very much.

I’d flip the lever and beat it with a rubber mallet and see what happens though.

[tuco]

If the holes are already damaged, can you push/force the binding screws back into holes? Then remove as normal?

[doebedoe]

Which screws. The fronts or the back ones. You might be able to take the brake off and then be able to get to them. But those screws don’t like to move in the holes in the plate very much.

I’d flip the lever and beat it with a rubber mallet and see what happens though.

Two screws on one side -- front and back. Can't seem to get the brake off as it is secured by the track/locked in by the screws.

Not sure which "lever" you're referring to. My Warden 13 heels don't seem to have one.

[doebedoe]

If the holes are already damaged, can you push/force the binding screws back into holes? Then remove as normal?

Not in a way I've found yet -- as there is no way to access them from the top with the heel in place to push/force them down.

[tuco]

Align holes and push on heel piece?

[tuco]

Pics yo

[SoVT Joey]

Two screws on one side -- front and back. Can't seem to get the brake off as it is secured by the track/locked in by the screws.

Not sure which "lever" you're referring to. My Warden 13 heels don't seem to have one.

I was looking at a different warden heel. But ya. Post some pics

Edit. I was able to take a hack saw blade and slide it up under the heel and then twist it over the screws and it will push the screws a bit. Or use the hack saw blade as a little guide ramp for the binding to slide over the screw top

[SoVT Joey]

[EWG]

Line Mordecais remounted with SPXs. Moved from -1.5cm to -4.8cm. Little sketchy process but not too bad.

Question: used Titebond 3. Can I ski these tomorrow or do I need to let them dry more than 15 hours?

[doebedoe]

Hacksaw blade trick for the win. That at least got me over the front screw, and I was able to pull the rear screw down enough to release with a screw driver.

So bad news is that it seems all 4 holes got fucked. Two holes ovalized, the other two partially stripped. No fucking idea what happened. Took both bindings completely off, certainly had glue in there. Reinstalled all but the fucked heel with fresh Titebond 3, no stripped holes.

Now...I have nylon inserts on hand. I've used them with success before. How fucked am i going to be trying to use them on all four? horrible idea? Would really like to ski these this weekend as they are a ski I've been training on all season and have a big test this weekend. Fack.

[PlayItLeo]

So, managed to pull out a heel of my self-mounted skis for the first time ever after a couple dozen mounts. Not sure what went wrong.... metal top sheet (BC Corvus), 4.1mm bit, tapped, Titebond3 glue, not oddities when mounting.

So now looking to remount in the same spot -- likely with two nylon inserts. The bitch is....I can't get the rear heel piece off. It's a Warden heel piece where you mount the track and slide on the heel piece. The two screws that pulled won't sit flush enough down to get the heel piece off the track. Any obvious ideas? Might try to find a strong magnet to pull them down but not much space to work with in there as I don't want to rip out the other two screws if it can be avoided.

I’ve had this happen with some Markers (fucking Markers) and a strong ass magnet (I used one from a laser level mount - like you’d attach to corner bead) plus a bit of gentle prying, like SoVT Joey is showing, eventually got them to drop back into their holes so I could get the heel off the track. It was a bitch, but with patience, beer, and sativa, it worked out.

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