personally I like the not ews format enduros, and I've done multiple ews' (master) in Whistler...I feel like they kind of jumped the shark into just multiple downhills and a lot more lift riding, and personally I always preferred the long, hard, "crankzilla" style events where you had moderate cutoffs, and making it to the end was a good accomplishment in and of itself. I did Trans-Provence in 2017 and that pretty much killed my interest in typical enduro racing. Pemberton had a blind race a couple years ago and that was awesome, but most other events just turn into people over training the courses for weeks ahead of time and to me that takes away from what I personally think these events should embody. Racing blind is awesome though, wish more events went that way, I'd probably get back into racing a lot more if they did.
I actually like the all pedal power enduros with no uplifts as well. I have never done a fully blind enduro but would really like to.
We had a local semi-underground enduro here a month ago. Stages weren’t announced until the morning-of at the meeting spot, and the first stage was a Le Mans mass start. The good stuff. Excellent racing.
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Man, This thread moves fast.
I had some thoughts on my ride today.
1. I am not advocating that riders need to be sucking down gels all the time. It's ok to do a 2 hour ride without food. I do them constantly. This is not fasted / glycogen depleted training
2. True glycogen depleted training feels like the end of a 3-hour ride At The Beginning of your ride. If you try to do a hard effort, your legs feel soft. Your heart rate doesn't reach the normal high value.
It's all relative, so it may likely be accurate until you get a different power measuring device.
If this is a representative FTP, then you ought to be focusing on riding most of your time at ~160watts.
I'm sure that sounds appalling. But, like I said, most people fall into the trap of riding harder because then it feels like they're doing something.
Twice a week you should be doing harder efforts. Maybe a Zwift race or repeats of 4x 5 to 8 minutes at ~270 watts. You know your harder efforts are at a good pace if they feel OK through halfway and then they really start to suck. If you're not worried that you can finish it, it probably isn't hard enough.
Ok awesome. My average again today was actually 161 watts for the 40 miles. The physio/coach I wanted to work with before covid got bad again recommended I do pretty much no intervals/sprints at all until like a few weeks before race season starts. Basically I should only be focusing on base now. Was gonna do a weight training program as well at the gym with some of the other bike racing dudes, but that is out for now too. So going to have to figure that stuff at home now as well.
Should I just do rides where the entire time I am at 160w (minus short warm up and cool down) and not chase any KOMs (aka interval sprints)?
Very good info in your last several posts XP. Thank you.
Yes. By FTP your fat oxidation is zero in a well-fed individual. If you are glycogen depleted this is not the case, but your FTP is also typically lower when glycogen depleted.
Systems:
Aerobic:
Base Intensity: The contribution from Fat is maximized. For some this is 50% of caloric expenditure. For most it's in the 20-30% range. For those with a poor aerobic system it is less than 20% contribution. The balance is carbohydrate burned aerobically.
Base Intensity to Threshold: Fat oxidation decreases pretty much linearly. Aerobic oxidation of Carbohydrate increases to take it's place. Anaerobic oxidation of Carbohydrate begins to kick-in as the aerobic system cannot keep up with demand. By threshold / FTP Fat oxidation is zero and for most people this happens just after they leave the base zone.
Threshold to VO2 max: Aerobic oxidation of carbohydrate continues to increase to it's max at VO2max. Anaerobic oxidation of carbs continues to increase.
Beyond VO2max: This is complicated and perhaps beyond this discussion.
I don't think this is out of the ordinary. You've found what works for you and understand the limitations (and benefits) of your strategy.
I definitely concur with your last thought: Enduro's are not won on the uphill. I'd rather someone had a bit of extra fat and be "durable" than overly light and being metabolically fragile.
If enduros were for fit people Adam Craig would win a lot more races. The best racers are crazy people with the skill to pump and not use the brakes. They learn they have to stay really fit to stay competitive and not hurt. Super quick processing skills to compute terrain adjustment. After 40 my brain couldn't process that fast. Or maybe it was all the substance abuse lol
If you want to nerd out on a podcast about a lot of this these are great: https://fascatcoaching.com/category/fascat-podcasts/
The previous two episodes are going to answer a lot of your questions (from their POV on training at least)
^^^ sweet thanks
Do you consider riding on no caloric intake that day (since waking up) fasted or are you working with a longer/stricter window?
That’s what I’m doing along with sporadic IF, but I’m not taking it further than that and definitely not riding in a glycogen depleted state.
Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.
I bought a PNW Pine external dropper post for my fat bike, installed it like every other dropper post and it initially returned very slowly. I fucked with the cable tension, checked the seat past collar torque and it worked better, not great, but better. I took for it a ride and it got worse to the point where it would only come back up a couple inches. I email PNW and get a new one in about a week - awesome customer service.
I install the new one and its doing the same damn thing. Starts okay but gets shittier as I ride it more. Kind of at a loss here - cable seems to moving fine, I lubed the seal to help it slide better, ferrules are seated, lever works okay. I am using interrupted housing because of cable stops that are on the frame. Would using full length housing make a difference? That's the only thing I can think of.
Bugs the hell out of me because I also have a PNW Bachelor and its been perfect for 2k+ miles.
I'm about to return it unless the collective has an idea for a fix.
I'd put this in the same category as riding in the morning after an over-night fast. Your liver will be low in glycogen, but your muscles will likely not be. (This very much depends on the day prior's exercise and eating, though. E.g. if you chronically eat a low-carb diet, then you'll be glycogen depleted at the muscular level OR if you did a depleting ride and haven't eaten since, you'll be glycogen depleted).
This is good for the "Toughing it out" improvement, but not necessarily the physiological improvement in the muscle because the muscle is likely still well fueled.
Damn.... some great info over the
Last several pages in regard to training. Thanks!
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I need a nylon compression ball for the bleed port on a RS Deluxe. Does anyone know if the Monarch uses the same size? The one from my Deluxe measures about 1/8". All the online retailers say "for Monarch" and don't list a size or compatibility with the Deluxe.
Anyone use one of these wall mounts? I'm looking for something to mount the tandem to the wall. Could use two sets of these. Thinking it would keep it out of the way, yet easy to get down. Currently have one of the rope pulley systems for the ceiling. But it still hangs low and can be a pain to get down.
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Tandem. I guess that rules out a wall or ceiling hook for the front wheel!
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However many are in a shit ton.
Tandem is barely under 9' long, ceiling is 9'. I thought about a hook or wheel holder style. I need to see how hard it would be to stand on rear wheel and hang. I think that if I voile strap the front wheel to the downtube, it would stay steady while I use the stoker handlebar to maneuver.
What’s wrong with the standard horizontal wall hanging hooks? Assuming you have a traditional top tube on the tandem.
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You could try something like this if you were concerned about the wall situation. Slightly janky looking, but I've used them and they work pretty well - https://www.amazon.com/Cyclingdeal-B...dp/B00811N5DE/
Otherwise, maybe go vertical with a wheel holder and something up on the all to stabilize the front bars - https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Nook-Ins.../dp/B06XXSHGWR - there's a customer photo of it holding a tandem
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