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[toast2266]

Seriously. Hardware store. This isn't complicated.

[XXX-er]

this ^^ as i often repeat

some of you dentists should not be allowed to own tools

[Roxtar]

Yeah, that thing is hot as shit.

What's it weigh? 23ish?

Just a blond hair over 22lbs with the Maxxis Minotaur 380s

[g_man80]

This is more of a product question rather than a tech question, but I didn't think it was worth starting a new thread. Does anyone have time with the new OneUp carbon bars? Thoughts? Are they too soft or are we talking a subtle difference compared to others like RF Sixc, Renthal Fatbar, or Deity Skywire?

[Andeh]

It's subtle, but the OneUp definitely more comfortable than 35mm offerings from RF or Renthal. I've been running them about a year and love them. I know about 3-4 other guys who've all switched to them and like them as well.

[Boissal]

Thanks everyone for the offers, I found some on my 3rd store visit (Hyland).

Re: cutting the long bolts, it's not my #1 option, I don't want to be looking for long bolts in 6 months when I bump up to a 203 rotor... If short bolts were impossible to source it would be a different story.
Re: hardware store, sure, but vanity prevents me from running shiny silver hardware on a all-black caliper & fork.

Only reason I asked on here is that I used to have 2 or 3 sets of short bolts sitting about in a drawer from bumping rotor size on older forks (no idea where they are now). I'm sure plenty of others do, including some mags who probably live 10 minutes from me. It's not much more effort for me to drive over to their place and trade 2 bolts for a 6 pack than go to the LBS and give them $8. It doesn't do shit to support their business and I have to stand around in there while 4 goobers try to order ebikes. Granted I ended up buying 4 sets of pads and some chain lube for 2x the price I could get online so a good deed was done in the end to support a local business.

Edit: Dee Hubs, thanks for the warnings, I'm glad I caught this nonsense before the pads are sufficiently worn that they contact each other instead of the rotor. I'll measure its thickness to make sure it's not too worm on the outer edge.

[simple]

This is more of a product question rather than a tech question, but I didn't think it was worth starting a new thread. Does anyone have time with the new OneUp carbon bars? Thoughts? Are they too soft or are we talking a subtle difference compared to others like RF Sixc, Renthal Fatbar, or Deity Skywire?

I think the thought is that the standard crop of 35mm carbon bars is that they are too stiff and harsh. So less harsh is what One-up and others are going for. Realistically 31.8 was fine and 35mm caters to actual silverback gorillas not your standard rider.

[toast2266]

Haven't used the oneup, but I'll be very impressed if someone manages to make a 35mm carbon bar that's too soft.

[g_man80]

Thanks for the feedback. I do miss the 31.8 setup on my last bike. Had my ownership overlapped, I probably would have swapped the bar and stem.

[stuckathuntermtn]

How DOES one know when to replace a rotor? My front RT86 203 looks warn, especially since I'm using sintered pads, but it seems fine in use.
???

[skaredshtles]

How DOES one know when to replace a rotor? My front RT86 203 looks warn, especially since I'm using sintered pads, but it seems fine in use.
???

Micrometer.

[scrublover]

How DOES one know when to replace a rotor? My front RT86 203 looks warn, especially since I'm using sintered pads, but it seems fine in use.
???

It's telling you right there.

[simple]

Micrometer.

Otherwise known as the Ron johnson measuring device

[jm2e]

How DOES one know when to replace a rotor? My front RT86 203 looks warn, especially since I'm using sintered pads, but it seems fine in use.
???

We've worn through to the alloy core of a couple RT86 rotors. Usually a good indicator. Have since switched to solid rotors because I think the sandwiched rotors warp more easily. And the whole wearing through to the core thing.....
My usual mentality is that if they allow the pads to stop the bike, and they aren't squealing most of the time, they're good rotors.

Question for the collective: Do you ever sand down rotors that are squealing a lot or not bedding into new pads? If so, do you just spin the wheel and hold sandpaper against it, or do you un-mount the rotor and really go to town?

[jm2e]

35mm bars were like a silent version of Boost, convincing mountain bikers that they need something that they don't need.

[SchralphMacchio]

New standard opportunity: 31.8 x 35 oval clamp stems! Vertical compliance but stiffness around the steer tube axis for that sharp snappy turn out-then-in feeling (because all you endurbros are riding mega slack bikes that need counter steer-wheel flop to set the turn).

It’s gonna be everything you’ve never dreamed about.

[rideit]

New standard opportunity: 31.8 x 35 oval clamp stems! Vertical compliance but stiffness around the steer tube axis for that sharp snappy turn out-then-in feeling (because all you endurbros are riding mega slack bikes that need counter steer-wheel flop to set the turn).

It’s gonna be everything you’ve never dreamed about.

[Eluder]

This is more of a product question rather than a tech question, but I didn't think it was worth starting a new thread. Does anyone have time with the new OneUp carbon bars? Thoughts? Are they too soft or are we talking a subtle difference compared to others like RF Sixc, Renthal Fatbar, or Deity Skywire?

I have been running them since they came out. Definitely more compliant than a Renthal or the first gen Easton Havocs... those things just hurt. I think they are less harsh than most of the 35mm on the market. Its not like they don't turn the bike when you want them to though. Maybe I'm just justifying my purchases but have them on all my bikes now.

And yes 35mm bars are ridiculous and pointless but these ride nice.

[dannynoonan]

Super unhelpful post, I know, but ya know what makes a 35mm bar not at all harsh, not even a little bit? Being a fatass. The harshness of my bar is probably the last thing I'd ever think about on a ride, in fact, it seems to wiggle around an awful lot. I'd recommend it to yas but it's probably just me ... Anyway, YMMV I guess is what I'm on about, and the vertical compliance of various bars is gonna depend on who you ask.

[XXX-er]

How DOES one know when to replace a rotor? My front RT86 203 looks warn, especially since I'm using sintered pads, but it seems fine in use.
???

The only rotor I ever wore out was freeriding on the old first gen Hayes Mags so that would be a severe be a service app

the area in the middle of the rotor with the clearing slots got visibly worn which wore the pads and then a set of new pads wore out really quick

so if you are burning thru pads and you can see the pad contact surface is not smoove its time to change the rotors

those 1st gen Hayes Mags were shit and i hated them

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

Anyone running HT T1 pedals? Thinking of switching from XTR trail pedals.

The HT is slightly lighter, have pins which might help with getting into the pedals quickly and or just still pedaling while not clipped yet which happens in enduro racing, and have the option for a cleat with more float.

I have trouble getting into the XTRs sometimes and the seemingly minimal float makes pre-releases happen somewhat often when putting a lot of body english into the bike.

[HAB]

Anyone running HT T1 pedals? Thinking of switching from XTR trail pedals.

The HT is slightly lighter, have pins which might help with getting into the pedals quickly and or just still pedaling while not clipped yet which happens in enduro racing, and have the option for a cleat with more float.

I have trouble getting into the XTRs sometimes and the seemingly minimal float makes pre-releases happen somewhat often when putting a lot of body english into the bike.

Yeah, I've spent some time on them. I think they're similarly easy to get into as XTRs. Multiple cleats available with different amounts of float, but their stated angles really don't jive with Shimano. Standard SPD cleats are supposedly 4 degrees, but they feel closer to the 8 degree HT cleats. The 4 degree HTs are super locked in. You can make the release tension on the HTs a whole lot higher than XTR Trails if you're so inclined. At the lower end of the adjustment range they're more similar.

The pins on the T1 don't come anywhere close to actually touching any of the couple pairs of shoes I've used with them. I don't think they do anything.

[grskier]

Yeah, I've spent some time on them. I think they're similarly easy to get into as XTRs. Multiple cleats available with different amounts of float, but their stated angles really don't jive with Shimano. Standard SPD cleats are supposedly 4 degrees, but they feel closer to the 8 degree HT cleats. The 4 degree HTs are super locked in. You can make the release tension on the HTs a whole lot higher than XTR Trails if you're so inclined. At the lower end of the adjustment range they're more similar.

The pins on the T1 don't come anywhere close to actually touching any of the couple pairs of shoes I've used with them. I don't think they do anything.

I find similar results with the pins on my saints.

[stuckathuntermtn]

Haha, "worn"

I guess the best way would be to ask my LBS down the alley from me. Or when I see aluminum coming out of the steel?

[jamal]

Shimano says the spd has 8 degrees of float. Interesting side note, the dxr bmx pedals are 2 degrees and have a higher release.

Minimum thickness is stamped right on the rotor.