PSA: Mount your own fucking skis.

[HAB]

Mounting a bunch of my own fucking skis to keep myself distracted for, uh, no reason in particular.

• CAST-ified the P18s on my Bibbys
• CAST second ski kit and some Pivot heels onto some new-to-me Renegades (picked up last spring, hadn't gotten around to mounting)
• Remounted my Ravens with inserts for the Zeds to share the bindings with...
• L138s got inserts for the Zeds. They'll get their own dedicated set if I find myself spending enough time on them this winter, but I wanted to do inserts anyway since they're kinda Swiss cheesed and this was easier/cheaper for now.

[ntblanks]

damn that's pretty ^^^

[3PinGrin]

damn that's pretty ^^^

x2 You need to slap a bird sticker on those DPS though to keep the theme running.

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[HAB]

x2 You need to slap a bird sticker on those DPS though to keep the theme running.

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Haha now that you mention it, my entire quiver (including a bunch of stuff not pictured) is essentially solid color or has birds on it. Mind blown.

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

Needed something to take my mind off shit last night.

[Shorty_J]

Mounting some new (to me) fucking skis that need a remount from the previous owners BSL.

I have the previous year of the same ski in a smaller size to confirm my measurements, but the topsheet graphics indicate a true center location that's 3.5 - 4 cm behind the actual center of the ski... meaning the recommended line is equally off.

Just a friendly reminder to never assume that any printed topsheet markings can be trusted, and not even assumed to be the same on both skis. Measure and confirm for yourself.

Based on the previous year ski I had planned to move the toes on this new ski BACK 1-2cm based on our mondo point size difference, but instead I'm moving the heels FORWARD based on my measurements... and that's still behind the recommended line (which I prefer on this ski).

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[phatboy64]

Not sure of this has been asked but I mounted a new shift binding an a new ski and have changed my mind. I want to put pivot 15s on with the CAST setup. I have a 306 bsl. What if any challenges will I face with regards to mounting holes?

[Spyderjon]

Not sure of this has been asked but I mounted a new shift binding an a new ski and have changed my mind. I want to put pivot 15s on with the CAST setup. I have a 306 bsl. What if any challenges will I face with regards to mounting holes?

Big clash at the Pivots rear toe locations so you'll need to offset the mount:

[kid-kapow]

Big clash at the Pivots rear heel locations so you'll need to offset the mount:

Sypderjon with his usual spectacular service, minus an obvious typo - the clash is in the front, not the rear.

So either go a bit (5-10mm) forward or about 10mm back.

I went the other way - from Pivots to Shifts - on two pairs and mounted a pair on the line (the original mount was a few mm in front of the line) and one pair 5mm behind the line.

[Spyderjon]

Sypderjon with his usual spectacular service, minus an obvious typo - the clash is in the front, not the rear......

Just checkin' that you kids are paying attention

And it's Spyderjon not Sypderjon

[kid-kapow]

snicker

[phatboy64]

Ok so sounds like I need to move 5 to 10 mm depending on which way. These are billy goats with RES so

1. Which why is better forward or back?
2. Or should I just say f it and stick with the shifts

[PeachesNCream]

Ok so sounds like I need to move 5 to 10 mm depending on which way. These are billy goats with RES so

1. Which why is better forward or back?
2. Or should I just say f it and stick with the shifts

I feel like you might get a better response in the ON3P thread with regards to moving the mount point. From what I remember they have a big sweet spot so I'd just go with whichever gets you closer to the line, but check with that thread first.

[PeachesNCream]

First time reusing holes on two pairs of skis.

1. First pair the holes aren't plugged. Do I treat the holes as if they were just drilled? Just razor any volcanoes, add glue, and screw on? I'm assuming no need to tap.

2. Second pair has been plugged with wood dowels and epoxy. Should I treat this as if it the plugs weren't there? I was thinking to drill right on top of the dowel plug (checking distances with template) and tap. Planning on using 2 part epoxy instead of just binding glue on these ones.

[kid-kapow]

RES skis like BGs and C&Ds are somewhat senstive to mounting position. 5mm either way is not a big deal though. I would probably go forward as that requires the smallest offset from the recommended line.

Brundo - 1: yeah, just makes sure that you hit the threads in the existing holes by counter-screwing the screws and feel that they fall into the grooves, then tighten. The volcanoes might not need trimming unless they are excessive - after all indentical bindings have already been mounted with them in place. 2: yeah, that sounds like what I would do. An alternative approach could be to perhaps start out with a smaller diameter drill bit, attach a small screw and see if the plugs could be pulled out easily. I have never re-used plugged holes before though, but it is something I might do with a pair of mine before long - so this is probably the way I would do it.

[2FUNKY]

Ok so sounds like I need to move 5 to 10 mm depending on which way. These are billy goats with RES so

1. Which why is better forward or back?
2. Or should I just say f it and stick with the shifts

RES Skis are fairly sensitive to mount locations. With that said, you could move them 5mm +|-. I had to mount mine -.5cm due to hole conflict and didn’t notice any change in characteristics and know of a couple others who had to do the same. I wouldn’t try a full 10mm tho.

[PeachesNCream]

RES skis like BGs and C&Ds are somewhat senstive to mounting position. 5mm either way is not a big deal though. I would probably go forward as that requires the smallest offset from the recommended line.

Brundo - 1: yeah, just makes sure that you hit the threads in the existing holes by counter-screwing the screws and feel that they fall into the grooves, then tighten. The volcanoes might not need trimming unless they are excessive - after all indentical bindings have already been mounted with them in place. 2: yeah, that sounds like what I would do. An alternative approach could be to perhaps start out with a smaller diameter drill bit, attach a small screw and see if the plugs could be pulled out easily. I have never re-used plugged holes before though, but it is something I might do with a pair of mine before long - so this is probably the way I would do it.

Thanks for the reply.

1. Thanks for the reminder on counter-screwing

2. Hmm, I might try pulling the plugs, but might have a pretty hard time with dowels and epoxy. But that did give me an idea to do pilot holes to prevent the bit from wandering.

[1000-oaks]

^ When reusing old holes, definitely counter-turn with light pressure initially to mesh the lead threads. Doing this successfully requires removing the little plastic tabs in the binding baseplates with a round file or drill first, so the screw can spin freely in the bindings, otherwise it's hard to feel when you hit the lead thread.

(Yes, once you have experience doing this you can crank the screws through the bindings with the hole tabs intact and then feel for the lead thread with the bindings up off the ski, but it's a bit of a gamble until you have it figured out.)

[mr_pretzel]

Got a bunch of my marketplace finds mounted up today.

And it’s snowing

[lucknau]

Got a bunch of my marketplace finds mounted up today.

And it’s snowing

Oooohhh. Jaguar-shark. Nice find.

... actually they’re all pretty rad scores.

[phatboy64]

Thanks for the info guys! So I am thinking if I do this I would go back the 5mm all though going forward looks like it would give me some additional clearance. I think I need to rethink this, not sure it is worth it...Shifts have been solid, I am just lovin the CAST setup..

[phatboy64]

On a different note. I am not new at being a hack at playing around with mounting bindings but I am new at doing it right, very new. That said I have been taking feedback you all have provided in this thread and been playing around/practicing on an old ski. I mounted up a pair of pivot 15s and it all went right. But there are a few things that I still question.

1. I could tighten the binding screws a LOT without creating “ spinner’s”. How tight is too tight? Is it worth getting a torque screwdriver?
2. Volcanos, I didn’t have any until I actually mounted the binding then unscrewed them. Was that due to over tightening? Should I slightly counter sink the holes to prevent this?
3. Is it worth it to tap the holes first? It seems like letting the screws make their own threads would be more secure.
4. When I remounted the bindings I put a drop of GG in two holes as a test. I let it dry over night. I wanted to test how much better they held over the holes without the GG but when I went to unscrew them they didn’t seem any harder to remove then the ones without the GG glue. I’m I missing something.

[PeachesNCream]

On a different note. I am not new at being a hack at playing around with mounting bindings but I am new at doing it right, very new. That said I have been taking feedback you all have provided in this thread and been playing around/practicing on an old ski. I mounted up a pair of pivot 15s and it all went right. But there are a few things that I still question.

1. I could tighten the binding screws a LOT without creating “ spinner’s”. How tight is too tight? Is it worth getting a torque screwdriver?
2. Volcanos, I didn’t have any until I actually mounted the binding then unscrewed them. Was that due to over tightening? Should I slightly counter sink the holes to prevent this?
3. Is it worth it to tap the holes first? It seems like letting the screws make their own threads would be more secure.
4. When I remounted the bindings I put a drop of GG in two holes as a test. I let it dry over night. I wanted to test how much better they held over the holes without the GG but when I went to unscrew them they didn’t seem any harder to remove then the ones without the GG glue. I’m I missing something.

I'm not an expert but I have been following this thread for a while.

1. I tighten pretty tight but only using a screw driver. Usually my hands are sweaty enough and since there's no leverage its hard to overtighten in my experience.
2. I don't think volcanoes mean overtightening. I think that's because you're putting a screw into a hole that is just slightly too small and it expands upwards. Nothing wrong with volcanoes. I take a large drill bit and shave off just a little to reduce volcanoes. Also some ski drill bits will shave off the topsheet if you go past the narrow portion of the drill bit. Just don't go too far!
3. I've wondered this myself. But people keep saying tapping is better.
4. The glue isn't meant to hold the screw, its meant to seal off any water of getting into the core which is why they're not any harder to unscrew than unglued ones.

[Shorty_J]

I tighten them down pretty hard into a new mount but sometimes if you get a spinner it's just bad luck... you're drilling into wood which is a natural product and has variations. I got 1 spinner mounting bindings the other night but I have nylon pound-in inserts on hand to deal with that so no problem.

Screwing into existing holes I don't tighten as hard... the threads already exist and have probably already been created using appropriate torque so any more and I might strip them.

I don't tap holes unless there's metal in the topsheet.

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[Vitamin I]

Ok so sounds like I need to move 5 to 10 mm depending on which way. These are billy goats with RES so

1. Which why is better forward or back?
2. Or should I just say f it and stick with the shifts

You could ski 1-2 days (inbounds to get a lot of laps) on your current mount of the Shifts, just to evaluate how that mount position feels, and then decide if you will prefer to move forward or back for your next mount position with CAST.

.