Ask the experts

[XXX-er]

Could the clutch in my 12 speed XT derailleur really be sticking after only 350 miles? I'm guessing this may be more than pull off the clutch cover and blast is with degreaser?

Good timing considering I have an all day ride tomorrow.

I fixed literally hundreds of them one way spragg clutches in printers where they were used to drive the ribbon feed, i would just take it apart , clean it and lube with grease

park cable cutter are awesume but if you don't have them cutting the housing and then facing the cut end with an abrasive disc works fine

If i couldn't set a star nut without a specal tool i would turn in my man card

edit: if greasing doesnt work replace the clutch, I used to carry a bunch of them

[grinch]

Ouch! Finishes with a kick to the jimmy

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[HAB]

The lighter spring being shorter is normal. It would be wound out of thinner wire, to achieve the lighter spring rate, and can therefore be shorter overall.

I'm not familiar enough with CC's latest to know about the spacers though.

[grinch]

The lighter spring being shorter is normal. It would be wound out of thinner wire, to achieve the lighter spring rate, and can therefore be shorter overall.

I'm not familiar enough with CC's latest to know about the spacers though.

Thanks, that makes sense. Spring tension adjuster is still in the middle of the threads. Did a few laps and i dont notice the spring binding. With those delrin washer/bushings , i guess i should just remove the spring and measure the stoke, except the bumper is still there

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[skaredshtles]

So... is the following leverage curve for the 2018 Trance reasonable for replacing the air can with a coil shock? Asking for a friend...

[toast2266]

So... is the following leverage curve for the 2018 Trance reasonable for replacing the air can with a coil shock? Asking for a friend...

People have definitely run coils on bikes with less progressive leverage ratios, but that bike still favors an air shock. It's moderately progressive, but the curve really flattens out later in the travel. You'll have great small bump sensitivity, but you'll likely have to run a lot of high speed compression and/or a stiffer spring to avoid bottoming out frequently. You'll also probably find that you get deeper into the travel more often than might be ideal.

[El Chupacabra]

Here's a Q for the experts: how do people ride Ardents as front tires, and not wash out / eat shit constantly?

Obviously they are more skilled than I am, because I couldn't make the Ardent work for me even as a rear tire...

[HankScorpio]

Here's a Q for the experts: how do people ride Ardents as front tires, and not wash out / eat shit constantly?

Obviously they are more skilled than I am, because I couldn't make the Ardent work for me even as a rear tire...

I tried an Ardent with the same results. It’s the official tire of understeer.


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[mall walker]

can someone explain to a noob, possibly via a skiing analogy, what I should want in a front and rear tire? what is the role of each, what does going fat up front do vs rear, and so on

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

can someone explain to a noob, possibly via a skiing analogy, what I should want in a front and rear tire? what is the role of each, what does going fat up front do vs rear, and so on

Tough to compare it at all to skiing. You want as much grip as possible up front, so wider/more surface area, and you want faster rolling in the back aka skinnier. These are very general guidelines.

[plugboots]

^^^ I’ve always thought that was it. Maybe like keep your weight forward to activate the front of your ski to initiate the turn properly?

[schuss]

A lot also depends on the terrain you're riding and your desired handling characteristics.
Someone who enjoys trialsy tech on the east coast loam is going to want a very different tire from someone pinning it on sandy buff singletrack in Bend.

[snowaddict91]

Tough to compare it at all to skiing. You want as much grip as possible up front, so wider/more surface area, and you want faster rolling in the back aka skinnier. These are very general guidelines.

Front tires to me are mostly chosen based on your local conditions and then your cornering preferences/skills.

Rear tires have tradeoffs between climbing traction, braking traction, rolling speed, durability, and other factors. Front tires have all these tradeoffs too, but to a lesser extent IMO.

For a general set up for the Wasatch, I like Minion DHF front, Aggressor rear. People definitely run faster rolling, lighter tires on hardtail 29ers like yours though.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

^^^ I’ve always thought that was it. Maybe like keep your weight forward to activate the front of your ski to initiate the turn properly?

I think that is a good way to look at it. The bike handles and turns better if you let the front tire do it's thing with proper weighting. (and not using your front brake while turning).

Similar to weight forward on your ski for correct edge hold/turn initiation vs tail gunning.

[toast2266]

can someone explain to a noob, possibly via a skiing analogy, what I should want in a front and rear tire? what is the role of each, what does going fat up front do vs rear, and so on

It's all just a trade off between traction and rolling resistance.

There are three kinds of traction:
1) Cornering traction
2) braking traction
3) climbing traction

The first two are essentially the same for both front and rear tires, except the negative consequences of losing traction are much higher on the front tire. If your front tire washes out, you tend to crash. If your rear tire washes out, that's just a skid or drift, which is fairly manageable.

Getting the most traction out of a tire varies a lot depending on soil, but the softer the dirt is, the bigger and spikier the knobs should be to get traction. Bigger, spikier knobs are slower, so it's personal preference as to what you're willing to put up with. Since losing traction matters less in the rear, many people make sacrifices there first (and go with smaller, closer spaced knobs).

[Sandbox]

I’ve decided to get a full face helmet for some more aggressive trails around here and for whistler in a couple of weeks. I’ve noticed a few things.... they are way more expensive then I would have thought...stock is limited.

With all of that in mind I’m liking the Fox proframe, light and lots of venting. Any suggestions? I’ve taken a look at the Bell helmets with removable chin guard but thinking I don’t need that as I already have 2 chin guard less helmets


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[Whiteroom_Guardian]

I’ve decided to get a full face helmet for some more aggressive trails around here and for whistler in a couple of weeks. I’ve noticed a few things.... they are way more expensive then I would have thought...stock is limited.

With all of that in mind I’m liking the Fox proframe, light and lots of venting. Any suggestions? I’ve taken a look at the Bell helmets with removable chin guard but thinking I don’t need that as I already have 2 chin guard less helmets


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If I was strictly riding lift served the Proframe looks pretty sweet. Even though it's got a shitload of vents it still seems like it would suck to pedal in.

I need a new helmet for enduro racing and I am looking seriously at the Giro Switchblade. Friend has one and says he loves it. FWIW, I had a Bell Super 2R I think....removable chinguard. Hated it. The chinguard was like 1/2" from your mouth. Super weird. Maybe the 3R or whatever they call the newest one addressed that issue?

[Andeh]

I’ve decided to get a full face helmet for some more aggressive trails around here and for whistler in a couple of weeks. I’ve noticed a few things.... they are way more expensive then I would have thought...stock is limited.

With all of that in mind I’m liking the Fox proframe, light and lots of venting. Any suggestions? I’ve taken a look at the Bell helmets with removable chin guard but thinking I don’t need that as I already have 2 chin guard less helmets


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I've used detachable chinguard helmets and they're not worth the penalty in terms of weight and venting over a good enduro FF (Fox Proframe, TLD Stage). Stowing the chin bar kinda sucks, and requires you to wear a pack. I personally have a Stage (and know a few others with them too). Another guy has the Proframe. They're both great helmets for what you're talking about, but they are still a lot warmer than a half shell for pedaling. Most of us pedal with them hanging off the bars.

[toast2266]

If I was strictly riding lift served the Proframe looks pretty sweet. Even though it's got a shitload of vents it still seems like it would suck to pedal in.

I need a new helmet for enduro racing and I am looking seriously at the Giro Switchblade. Friend has one and says he loves it. FWIW, I had a Bell Super 2R I think....removable chinguard. Hated it. The chinguard was like 1/2" from your mouth. Super weird. Maybe the 3R or whatever they call the newest one addressed that issue?

Any full face is hot to pedal in. Switch blade is also pretty hot - even in half shell mode, the cheek pads are still there. It's quite a bit hotter than a normal half shell.

Not cheap, but I just got a sweet protection arbitrator. It's good both as a full face and half shell. Only downside (other than price) is that it's not as quick to switch from half shell to full face as most of the other options.

If you're not concerned about a dh rated chin bar, the leatt helmet is good too.

[Whiteroom_Guardian]

^^^ Oh damn, that Sweet helmet is nice. Only slightly more than switchblade.

After hitting my head pretty good last year in an older THE carbon helmet without MIPS I don't think I will ever ride without MIPS again. My trail helmet has it and I can't believe I raced all last season without it in the full face helmet.

[El Chupacabra]

I don't have a tubeless tire repair kit - the little awl + sticky bacon strip thing. Is the rasp necessary (for roughing up the hole in order to get the plug to adhere)? Am shopping and see kits with and without the rasp.

[cydwhit]

I don't have a tubeless tire repair kit - the little awl + sticky bacon strip thing. Is the rasp necessary (for roughing up the hole in order to get the plug to adhere)? Am shopping and see kits with and without the rasp.

Only time I've ever wanted the rasp was fixing a car tire. It makes the hole bigger and easier to get the plug into on a car tire. On a bike I've never wanted the rasp, and never used it. Just find the hole and jam that sucker in there.

The Stans dart thing is even easier to use, but replacement plugs are expensive and none of my local shops carry them so I gave up on that.

[El Chupacabra]

Thanks. I've plugged car tires, and the rasp helps for that - but that's a much different tire casing than on a bike.

Some of the tubeless bike repair kits have the rasp, some don't.

[Sandbox]

I fully expect pedaling to suck in any form of full face helmet. The more aggressive trails near me are mainly shuttle accessible but sometimes you do end up with a decent pedal back to the lot but such is life....

There is a section I was riding a couple of weeks ago that I call “ Return of the Jedi” as it’s like the forest racing scene and I almost cracked my head off a tree in a tight section.... at that moment I thought maybe a full face is worth it


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[robnow]

Having gone through a couple iterations of Enduro options I’ve become of the opinion that since I climb with my helmet off anyway (attach to bars), I would rather get a proper but well ventilated Fully. Just ordered the 7idp Project23 as it’s light and the most ventilated (finally Fullface without mesh across the breathing ports). Hopefully it fits well enough as I ordered sight unseen.


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