One last thing, what would you recommend for slow set epoxy for this purpose? I searched for an old TGR thread and there were way too many recommendations.
One last thing, what would you recommend for slow set epoxy for this purpose? I searched for an old TGR thread and there were way too many recommendations.
I just use this stuff cause it's always in stock at home depot and its 24-hour cure. But do whatever XXX-er recommends.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-...2001/100670610
Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
well I use slow set from System 3 up here eh, which is I think the same as Systems West which is what a lot of folks down there will use
in general going strongest to less strongest: a 2-part 24hr slowset is the strongest, JB weld is probably about here, 5 minute 2-part about here, gorrila glue is about here, wood glue will seal the hole and is the least strong and there are more glues out there I havent covered what you use might depenf on what you can get
In reality probably all the bindings mounted by a shop will be mounted with wood glue cuz epoxy is messy more hassle takes too long to cure but any problems and you might need epoxy/FG or a heli coil
BTW don't strip the screwheads but if they come easy you don't have to heat them
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
G/Flex from West Marine is the same stuff.
I'll just add that the pullout strength is from the wood itself. The epoxy is to prevent water intrusion.
well if a hole is completeley stripped, so you cram it with slowset & FG cuz there isnt any wood left,
the epoxy is doing > water curtailment
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Has anyone mounted a Faction Candide 2.0 using a 3.6 bit? Recommended is a 4.1 but no metal. Jus go with the 3.6?
Last edited by Galbi; 02-13-2020 at 01:31 AM.
Yup, fire away with the 3.6
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use a 3.6 and always tap the hole. The tap will work with every ski (although it's been a while since I've had a metal top layer) and I never have to wonder about the recommended bit.
The above doesn't help the current situation, but why wait until 2 days before the next trip to have the same problem?
Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
I know this is going to sound stupid, repetitive or whatnot but does the collective epoxy regular Alpine screws in virgin mounts?
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.
I always do. It’s hardly any extra work and I’m so much more confident in epoxy than anything else. It’s probably just a peace of mind thing but I do think epoxy is superior
You need to put some glue in there. I find epoxy the best at sealing the hole and resisting degrading over the years, but if all you have is outdoor wood glue it's fine. If you think you might pull the bindings off in a year or two to sell the skis then wood glue is easier to break free.
"timberridge is terminally vapid" -- a fortune cookie in Yueyang
will it blow the top sheet off the ski ?
, the shop owner who mounted my 120's used ureathane glue
DPS used to recommend gorrila on pure carbon wailers and would not warranty wood glue
all them dentists out there are on ticking time bombs
ureathane glue is water seeking so when it finds water it expands, i spit in some binding holes and used gorrila to glue in loose fitting dowel, in the morning all the pieces of dowel had been puked up on to the top sheet ... pretty funny
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
If mounting skis with carbon, absolutely use epoxy. And tap.
I seen a vid of factory race guys prepping a bunch of SL/GS race stock for the high end racers they might have been screwing into a foam double deck but they didnt bother with any glue at all
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
I use Roo glue usually and do not have skis with carbon. Thanks for the info!!
Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using TGR Forums mobile app
Why don't you go practice fallin' down? I'll be there in a minute.
The more roo-glued screws I pull out of old mounts, the more I've decided to go back to marine epoxy. No failures and no issues, but it's not any harder to remove screws than with zero adhesive. Maybe that's desirable in some situations. Or maybe I'm just getting stronger as I age.
Bookmarks