"Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers
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Pretty sure ON3P runs a 1 and 1 on their edges
dhoh! I've been running a diamond stone on my kartels at 2 degrees on the side.
I'm kind of gaper in terms of tuning -- is there a good reason to keep on3ps at 1 and 1? (especially if you're not on the east coast)
On a similar note, I'm sure it's been covered somewhere in this thread, but are y'all detuning BGs? And how would you do it with the asym?
I would have to actually tune my
BG’s to then be able to detune them. Mine are all on the original factory tune.
In constant pursuit of the perfect slarve...
They do come 1/1 from factory......
I’m on EC....I have Wren 108’s...so I put a 1/3 on them. They have skied better after putting the 1/3 on them......but that’s probably because I’m used to that on all my others.....needing that extra bite.
Unfortunately I haven’t had the opportunity to have them out in favorable conditions so to speak....will be at GT/JH in a couple weeks and really looking forward to seeing what they can do.
Good to know the W108 behaves well with 1/3. That's how all my other skis are tuned (I'm EC as well) but I remember reading some stuff a few pages back about how ON3P thinks their skis work better with a 1/1 tune (I think).
Had my 184 W108s out this past storm cycle at Stowe and they were amazing. Did everything I wanted: carve, smear, float, go fast, go slow.
Amazing ski.
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The question is better asked: why wouldn't you keep the ON3P at 1/1, especially if you're not on the east coast? I'm no tuning expert, but my understanding is:
Base Bevel: Easy of pivoting with bases flat. Racers run 0.5-1 deg for downhill and 0-0.5 deg for slalom.
Side/Edge Bevel: How much grip the ski has on edge. Racers run up to 3 deg for downhill and up to 4 deg for slalom.
Overall bevel determines how deep the edge penetrates the snow (which makes for more grip but a more "locked in" feeling) and also how quickly the ski hooks up.
So a 1/1 will feel less "locked in" on edge than a 1/3 because it has a less acute edge angle. IME, 1/1 is the standard "pow ski" tune, which works well for most ON3P skis cuz of the rocker. I could see changing the narrow Wrens to a higher side bevel if you ski a lot of ice and don't like to skid your turns (though there are prolly better skis for that IMHO -- something with less rocker and more torsional stiffness). I could also see experimenting with a higher base bevel on the C&D to make them extra schmeary. Before DPS went to "spooned" bases, Marshall use to feather the base bevel on his L138s from 1 deg underfoot to 3 deg toward the tip.
Frankly, I just leave all mine at 1/1, except my spring/summer skis which have a 1/3 for firm snow.
Last edited by auvgeek; 01-16-2019 at 10:17 AM.
"Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers
photos
Yeah I keep the BG 1 1. I live in the lower midwest. 1 3 is standard issue here. I also carry files and diamond stones with me wherever I go so durable edges are less important to me. Also we have like 12 pairs of active skis in our family quiver and I like KISS. My Wren 98's are 27,000 times more smearable after a good grind and the 1 3 than they were before so shrug. To each their own.
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I'm not disputing your experience at all. If you live somewhere with less snow or lots of man-made snow, a 1/2 or 1/3 could def make sense. But if your pair somehow didn't have enough base bevel from the factory, that could make them super hooky. IME, a 1/3 feels more locked in on edge than a 1/1.
"Alpine rock and steep, deep powder are what I seek, and I will always find solace there." - Bean Bowers
photos
Noted, and my Wrens have been great with the factory tune so far. But the shop that tunes / base grinds all my skis uses 3 deg side for everything, so when the time comes for the Wrens to be refreshed/retuned, it's good to know that they don't magically transform into unwieldy monsters with a 1/3 tune.
Basically, it feels like they’re “just about to plane” higher in the snow. Feels like the tip is pushing/plowing the snow rather than riding on top of it. Incidentally, I have not noticed this effect on my C&D’s. Not sure if it’s the extra length, extra width, the tour layup or a combination of all 3...
edited to add: the plowing effect really only happens in low-angle and slower speeds.
I have around 5 days on my asym 184 BG and can’t seem to click with them. I going to give them another day or so, but will probably let them go.
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