Triple fishernan wirh dymeema. Normal with nylon cord (less slippery) is a double.
It's not as if you're rapping off of it, but why not do it right ;-)
... Thom
Triple fishernan wirh dymeema. Normal with nylon cord (less slippery) is a double.
It's not as if you're rapping off of it, but why not do it right ;-)
... Thom
Galibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
Yeah. The maestrale fit and ease of entry are really nice.
Might need it’s own thread, as it’s a bit of drift from this one; might be one that already exists, but how does one go about getting LESS forward lean out of a boot? How can I make the maestrale more upright boot?
Last edited by SupreChicken; 12-16-2018 at 11:15 AM.
wait!!!! waitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwait...Wait!
Zoolander wasn't a documentary?
Yeah. That’s the sentiment I was expecting. I want less. My alpine boots are fairly upright. My touring clamps have a steeper ramp angle than my alpine clamps. So if I’m in that setup, I’m skiing in stilettos and I look and feel like a total amateur which I find unnerving when I’m in the BC.
So yeah. Less fwd lean. Without buying a boot that doesn’t fit my foot.
wait!!!! waitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwait...Wait!
Zoolander wasn't a documentary?
(grinding teeth because i can't ski all this new pow today post)
So, for the Vulcan fans out there who are thinking about switching shit up, it sounds like:
ZGTP vs. Vulcan
1. Tecnica is softer than vulcan with tongue, slightly stiffer than vulcan without tongue, but more progressive than either. So, ski feel is better and more "overlappy" for the Tecnica.
2. Weight is really close (vulcan slightly lighter perhaps, especially if you remove the lowest buckle/powerstrap and use intuition)
3. Vulcan walks slightly better when the tongue is out, but it's pretty close
4. Tecnica fiddle factor is less vs. Vulcan + tongue in/out transitions, and maybe a push for no tongue transitions (two buckles only with my Vulcans w/toe buckle/powerstrap removed vs. 4 tecnica buckles. Both buckle systems -wire vs. ladder - are a bit fiddly)
5. Vulcans have slightly tighter heel pocket (good for me).
And then Hawx 130 XTD is heavier, walks a bit worse than ZGTP. Yeah?
Lol...well, my ankle dorsiflexion is that of a well lubed door hinge... I like lots of ankle flexion but more than that I'm looking for better damping when maching through cut up piles of coastal cement, mogul zipper lines and crossing tracks in the back country. Was pretty cool testing these babies out and feeling the boot flex and absorb shock like a long travel front fork of a dh mtn bike. Totally keep balance on the balls of feet and let the equipment do all the dirty work in shit snow. Werkin on a 5.0 version to make it a truly 'easy' plug and play mod with no alterations to the stock boot. We'll see how that goes.
Master of mediocrity.
Close? 26.5 Zero G Tour Pro weighs in at 1350 grams with stock insole, 26.5 Vulcan weighed 1562 with wimpier Dynafit black insole. However, I had to size up to 27.5 in the Vulcan which was 1590 grams. Not sure about the green-on-green Vulcan, but guessing it weighs about the same as the Mercury did as it is essentially the same boot.
I got 1234 g for the 24.5 Tour Pro with footbed in; Blizzard leaves them out of the boots when they ship and the quoted weights are without but few people will ski them that way. Haven't weighed a 25.5. I'm also skiing the Hawx Ultra XTD 26.5 with no power strap @ 1352 g.
Looks like the rivet attaching the second buckle from the toe is more exposed or less sunk than the one on the left side. Has worn a hole in the liner. Will post photos later but wonder if anyone has had luck filing down the underside of a rivet. Doesn’t seem like punching would be the answer but wdik.
Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
I would just cover it with ductape or I have pieces of plastic bike frame protector
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
Anyone know how to adjust the forward lean correctly? The manual says to flip the plate vertically for either 12 or 13 degrees. My plate has a small notch at one end - which end up is 13 degrees?
Look at how the threaded holes are offset in the posts, and it'll be clear which way moves the exterior bracket up a tiny bit.
The manual seems to indicate that there should be a shim under the plate. In the illustration the shim has an arrow that points down for 12 deg and up for 13 deg. When I unscrewed the plate though there was no shim and nothing with a notch that others have mentioned.
There are no shims. The metal female piece is offset one way so when you flip it it creates more forward lean. If I had one in front of me I'd take pictures. Literally unscrew the screws, flip the metal piece around inside and screw it back together.
For those that may have tried these on in a store and found the instep hight really high, just make sure you're trying them on with a footbed. For the life of me I still can't figure out why they decided to put the footbeds in a bag in the box and not in the actual boots. I've encountered so many people trying them on in shops without footbeds in them. This makes the boot feel rather cavernous.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Lizard-Ski...atch-Kit-Clear
something like this ^^
they go on the bike frame where the cables will rub off the paint if not protected
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
First day on mine today. A very refined and responsive boot. Light feeling and stiff, progressive as advertised.
Smashed out a couple inbound laps then headed out for a tour. They easily drive my 4frnt Hojis. Transitions were quick enough. I didn’t have to reset buckles if I undid them bottom up.
Liners were definitely colder than my intuitions. The also felt a little short. I’ll try my power wraps in them to help them ski more like an alpine boot.
I left my forward lean in the stock setting -which is apparently 13 degrees. Added the spoiler too. I wasn’t wanting any more forward lean.
I’m a 11 US with about a 102 last. I’m in a 27.5 and don’t think I’ll need any boot work. I usually don’t.
Bookmarks