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Thread: Tecnica ZeroG Tour Pro - 2018- 9 boot

  1. #326
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    Triple fishernan wirh dymeema. Normal with nylon cord (less slippery) is a double.

    It's not as if you're rapping off of it, but why not do it right ;-)

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  2. #327
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    Tecnica ZeroG Tour Pro - 2018- 9 boot

    Quote Originally Posted by kootenayskier View Post
    Tried them on while killing time in the local shop while my wife got her new boots fitted. Impressions: light weight, skiable moderate flex nice ROM, awkward/painful to put on, tight across the toes, high /loose instep, too much volume in the heel, mediocre Palau liner. Not close enough to my anatomy to bother with, but if they fit and you add Intuitions, they seem like a well executed “do everything ok” ski-touring boot, certainly not an in and out of bounds option, but if the fit is comparable, you’re probably better served sticking with Maestrales (easier entry, and you won’t need to upgrade the liners).
    Yeah. The maestrale fit and ease of entry are really nice.

    Might need it’s own thread, as it’s a bit of drift from this one; might be one that already exists, but how does one go about getting LESS forward lean out of a boot? How can I make the maestrale more upright boot?
    Last edited by SupreChicken; 12-16-2018 at 11:15 AM.
    wait!!!! waitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwait...Wait!
    Zoolander wasn't a documentary?

  3. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by kootenayskier View Post
    Tried them on while killing time in the local shop while my wife got her new boots fitted. Impressions: light weight, skiable moderate flex nice ROM, awkward/painful to put on, tight across the toes, high /loose instep, too much volume in the heel, mediocre Palau liner. Not close enough to my anatomy to bother with, but if they fit and you add Intuitions, they seem like a well executed “do everything ok” ski-touring boot, certainly not an in and out of bounds option, but if the fit is comparable, you’re probably better served sticking with Maestrales (easier entry, and you won’t need to upgrade the liners).
    "I like 3 piece boots more than overlap boots"
    and
    "I don't like boots that don't fit me. Get the boot that fits your foot."
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  4. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by Summit View Post
    "I like 3 piece boots more than overlap boots"
    and
    "I don't like boots that don't fit me. Get the boot that fits your foot."
    But only if they're red.
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    the situation strikes me as WAY too much drama at this point

  5. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by SupreChicken View Post
    Yeah. The maestrale fit and ease of entry are really nice.

    Might need it’s own thread, as it’s a bit of drift from this one; might be one that already exists, but how does one go about getting LESS forward lean out of a boot? How can I make the maestrale more upright boot?
    Why would you want less forward lean? I want more!

  6. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by xyz View Post
    Why would you want less forward lean? I want more!
    Yeah. That’s the sentiment I was expecting. I want less. My alpine boots are fairly upright. My touring clamps have a steeper ramp angle than my alpine clamps. So if I’m in that setup, I’m skiing in stilettos and I look and feel like a total amateur which I find unnerving when I’m in the BC.

    So yeah. Less fwd lean. Without buying a boot that doesn’t fit my foot.
    wait!!!! waitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwait...Wait!
    Zoolander wasn't a documentary?

  7. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by SupreChicken View Post
    Yeah. That’s the sentiment I was expecting. I want less. My alpine boots are fairly upright. My touring clamps have a steeper ramp angle than my alpine clamps. So if I’m in that setup, I’m skiing in stilettos and I look and feel like a total amateur which I find unnerving when I’m in the BC.

    So yeah. Less fwd lean. Without buying a boot that doesn’t fit my foot.
    Why not just shim the toe of your touring binding?

  8. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Why not just shim the toe of your touring binding?
    I’m in the process of doing that. Acquired shims this weekend.

    Worried it will still feel different than my usual, but perhaps not
    wait!!!! waitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwaitwait...Wait!
    Zoolander wasn't a documentary?

  9. #334
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    (grinding teeth because i can't ski all this new pow today post)

    So, for the Vulcan fans out there who are thinking about switching shit up, it sounds like:
    ZGTP vs. Vulcan
    1. Tecnica is softer than vulcan with tongue, slightly stiffer than vulcan without tongue, but more progressive than either. So, ski feel is better and more "overlappy" for the Tecnica.
    2. Weight is really close (vulcan slightly lighter perhaps, especially if you remove the lowest buckle/powerstrap and use intuition)
    3. Vulcan walks slightly better when the tongue is out, but it's pretty close
    4. Tecnica fiddle factor is less vs. Vulcan + tongue in/out transitions, and maybe a push for no tongue transitions (two buckles only with my Vulcans w/toe buckle/powerstrap removed vs. 4 tecnica buckles. Both buckle systems -wire vs. ladder - are a bit fiddly)
    5. Vulcans have slightly tighter heel pocket (good for me).

    And then Hawx 130 XTD is heavier, walks a bit worse than ZGTP. Yeah?

  10. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyski View Post
    (grinding teeth because i can't ski all this new pow today post)

    So, for the Vulcan fans out there who are thinking about switching shit up, it sounds like:
    ZGTP vs. Vulcan
    1. Tecnica is softer than vulcan with tongue, slightly stiffer than vulcan without tongue, but more progressive than either. So, ski feel is better and more "overlappy" for the Tecnica.
    2. Weight is really close (vulcan slightly lighter perhaps, especially if you remove the lowest buckle/powerstrap and use intuition)
    3. Vulcan walks slightly better when the tongue is out, but it's pretty close
    4. Tecnica fiddle factor is less vs. Vulcan + tongue in/out transitions, and maybe a push for no tongue transitions (two buckles only with my Vulcans w/toe buckle/powerstrap removed vs. 4 tecnica buckles. Both buckle systems -wire vs. ladder - are a bit fiddly)
    5. Vulcans have slightly tighter heel pocket (good for me).

    And then Hawx 130 XTD is heavier, walks a bit worse than ZGTP. Yeah?
    There's an easy fix for the lack of progressive flex issue in the Vulcan.

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    Master of mediocrity.

  11. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by swissiphic View Post
    There's an easy fix for the lack of progressive flex issue in the Vulcan.
    Your easy and mine are two different things .

    I actually don't mind the lack of progression in the vulcans that much as my ankle dorsiflexion is the same as that of a metal table leg.

  12. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyski View Post
    Your easy and mine are two different things .

    I actually don't mind the lack of progression in the vulcans that much as my ankle dorsiflexion is the same as that of a metal table leg.
    Lol...well, my ankle dorsiflexion is that of a well lubed door hinge... I like lots of ankle flexion but more than that I'm looking for better damping when maching through cut up piles of coastal cement, mogul zipper lines and crossing tracks in the back country. Was pretty cool testing these babies out and feeling the boot flex and absorb shock like a long travel front fork of a dh mtn bike. Totally keep balance on the balls of feet and let the equipment do all the dirty work in shit snow. Werkin on a 5.0 version to make it a truly 'easy' plug and play mod with no alterations to the stock boot. We'll see how that goes.
    Master of mediocrity.

  13. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyski View Post
    2. Weight is really close (vulcan slightly lighter perhaps, especially if you remove the lowest buckle/powerstrap and use intuition)
    Close? 26.5 Zero G Tour Pro weighs in at 1350 grams with stock insole, 26.5 Vulcan weighed 1562 with wimpier Dynafit black insole. However, I had to size up to 27.5 in the Vulcan which was 1590 grams. Not sure about the green-on-green Vulcan, but guessing it weighs about the same as the Mercury did as it is essentially the same boot.

  14. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    Close? 26.5 Zero G Tour Pro weighs in at 1350 grams with stock insole, 26.5 Vulcan weighed 1562 with wimpier Dynafit black insole. However, I had to size up to 27.5 in the Vulcan which was 1590 grams. Not sure about the green-on-green Vulcan, but guessing it weighs about the same as the Mercury did as it is essentially the same boot.
    Yeah, that’s a bit lazy on my part. 25 Vulcan with no Powerstrap or two buckle is 1350g on my scale. 27.5 ZGTP is 1310, so a 25 might be what, 1210?

  15. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyski View Post
    Yeah, that’s a bit lazy on my part. 25 Vulcan with no Powerstrap or two buckle is 1350g on my scale. 27.5 ZGTP is 1310, so a 25 might be what, 1210?
    I got 1234 g for the 24.5 Tour Pro with footbed in; Blizzard leaves them out of the boots when they ship and the quoted weights are without but few people will ski them that way. Haven't weighed a 25.5. I'm also skiing the Hawx Ultra XTD 26.5 with no power strap @ 1352 g.

  16. #341
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    Looks like the rivet attaching the second buckle from the toe is more exposed or less sunk than the one on the left side. Has worn a hole in the liner. Will post photos later but wonder if anyone has had luck filing down the underside of a rivet. Doesn’t seem like punching would be the answer but wdik.


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  17. #342
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    I would just cover it with ductape or I have pieces of plastic bike frame protector
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I would just cover it with ductape or I have pieces of plastic bike frame protector
    Will try the duct tape. What are the plastic frame protectors?

  19. #344
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    Anyone know how to adjust the forward lean correctly? The manual says to flip the plate vertically for either 12 or 13 degrees. My plate has a small notch at one end - which end up is 13 degrees?

  20. #345
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    Look at how the threaded holes are offset in the posts, and it'll be clear which way moves the exterior bracket up a tiny bit.

  21. #346
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    The manual seems to indicate that there should be a shim under the plate. In the illustration the shim has an arrow that points down for 12 deg and up for 13 deg. When I unscrewed the plate though there was no shim and nothing with a notch that others have mentioned.

  22. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by cuxcrider View Post
    The manual seems to indicate that there should be a shim under the plate. In the illustration the shim has an arrow that points down for 12 deg and up for 13 deg. When I unscrewed the plate though there was no shim and nothing with a notch that others have mentioned.
    There are no shims. The metal female piece is offset one way so when you flip it it creates more forward lean. If I had one in front of me I'd take pictures. Literally unscrew the screws, flip the metal piece around inside and screw it back together.

    For those that may have tried these on in a store and found the instep hight really high, just make sure you're trying them on with a footbed. For the life of me I still can't figure out why they decided to put the footbeds in a bag in the box and not in the actual boots. I've encountered so many people trying them on in shops without footbeds in them. This makes the boot feel rather cavernous.

  23. #348
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    Quote Originally Posted by hafjell View Post
    Will try the duct tape. What are the plastic frame protectors?
    https://www.jensonusa.com/Lizard-Ski...atch-Kit-Clear

    something like this ^^

    they go on the bike frame where the cables will rub off the paint if not protected
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by couchsending View Post
    There are no shims. The metal female piece is offset one way so when you flip it it creates more forward lean. If I had one in front of me I'd take pictures. Literally unscrew the screws, flip the metal piece around inside and screw it back together.

    For those that may have tried these on in a store and found the instep hight really high, just make sure you're trying them on with a footbed. For the life of me I still can't figure out why they decided to put the footbeds in a bag in the box and not in the actual boots. I've encountered so many people trying them on in shops without footbeds in them. This makes the boot feel rather cavernous.
    Ahh like Zoolander I see now that it is INSIDE the boot, underneath the black sticker.

  25. #350
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    First day on mine today. A very refined and responsive boot. Light feeling and stiff, progressive as advertised.

    Smashed out a couple inbound laps then headed out for a tour. They easily drive my 4frnt Hojis. Transitions were quick enough. I didn’t have to reset buckles if I undid them bottom up.

    Liners were definitely colder than my intuitions. The also felt a little short. I’ll try my power wraps in them to help them ski more like an alpine boot.

    I left my forward lean in the stock setting -which is apparently 13 degrees. Added the spoiler too. I wasn’t wanting any more forward lean.

    I’m a 11 US with about a 102 last. I’m in a 27.5 and don’t think I’ll need any boot work. I usually don’t.

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